Steering Stops

[platinum_black]

My mot has just run out and am looking at renewing it but there are a few things that need done first, mainly the steering stops need replaced as the PO had a bit of a fall and the steering stop is gone, does anyone have any good ways to put new ones on that doesnt involve welding at all? all help appreciated.

[gregvhen]

theres no way to do it without welding. unless you dont want it to actually stop the bars.

[Paulcet]

The Buddha has a technique involving chunks of tire rubber zip-tied to the forks.

[DoD#i]

You might be able to adapt Psyber's GSXR fork technique?

http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=44878.msg544462#msg544462

But I have no idea if it would pass your MOT inspection, which seems a bit more drastic than our typical inspections. Or which part your PO broke off.

[gregvhen]

You might be able to adapt Psyber's GSXR fork technique?

http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=44878.msg544462#msg544462

But I have no idea if it would pass your MOT inspection, which seems a bit more drastic than our typical inspections. Or which part your PO broke off.

I think hes talking about the tab on the stem not the tabs on the forks.  Which one are you talkin about platinum?

[The Buddha]

There is 2 buddha tricks in this context.
Yea chunk of car tire ...
Or a nice L bracket with a 10mm hole in it bolted onto the pinch bolt on the lower triple. It has to go back toward the bike on the free end, not away from the bike.
Cool.
Buddha.

[platinum_black]

from what i can make out there was a tab on the frame that made contact with one of the triples at each side and that has snapped clean off so now i am hitting the tank at full lock which gave me a nasty gouge out the paint on my tank the other day but yeah tab on the frame infront of the head race bearings is missing.

[platinum_black]

actually yeah this tab in the middle in black is gone so i need something to sort it. welding free preferably

[sledge]

It definately wont pass without lockstops or some other way of preventing the bars fouling the tank on full lock. I would be tempted to take it to your MOT station and ask them directly what sort of repair would be acceptable and what wouldnt. Its a safety related issue so I cant see them accepting any bodges. Making and welding new stops on wouldnt be difficult for someone with the right skills but it would mean removal of the front end and headstock bearings........and the tank/carbs

A little back-street shop would probably be your best bet for something like this. I would do it for 75 quid and a couple of pints......but your not really local.

[DoD#i]

There is a way to fix that without welding, but you won't like it - hopefully you won't like it enough that you become willing to pay someone competent to weld it.

The non-welding method:

Remove every part from the frame. Replace frame with a frame that has the stop. Replace every part on the frame.

Some things simply call for welding.

[platinum_black]

the problem here is i cant afford it, i am  on £300 a month wage wise and it would easily cost bout £100 if not more to get that done.

which leads me to the end of possibly having to sell it which i dont want.

[DoD#i]

Shop around. Be willing to get the extraneous parts  (forks, bearings, tank etc.) out of the way, so the weldor can take the thing, weld on the stop, and hand it back to you. Under those conditions, with the right weldor, you should be able to get a much lower price. The actual welding is a very small part of this job.

[gregvhen]

It definately wont pass without lockstops or some other way of preventing the bars fouling the tank on full lock. I would be tempted to take it to your MOT station and ask them directly what sort of repair would be acceptable and what wouldnt. Its a safety related issue so I cant see them accepting any bodges. Making and welding new stops on wouldnt be difficult for someone with the right skills but it would mean removal of the front end and headstock bearings........and the tank/carbs

A little back-street shop would probably be your best bet for something like this. I would do it for 75 quid and a couple of pints......but your not really local.

Why do you have to remove all that stuff? just clamp tac and weld. it aint that complicated.  if your worried bout the bearing heatin up or the metal melting to it, youd have to be welding for way longer than you should be on that thing. welding a new tab on there is a 10 minute job. and id do for free if i lived by you.  tac. weld top bead. that takes about 3 seconds. weld the bottom bead. another 3 seconds. put 5 min cooling time after the first bead and youll be plenty cool for the second.

[sledge]

Have you considered the effect the heat would have on the grease in the headstock?

[the mole]

Good point sledge, you could cook a burger with that while you're waiting for it to cool.

[psyber_0ptix]

or the warping of the head tube...


you may have bearing problems because who knows if they are concentric/perfectly aligned.



...that being said, who knows if it's properly aligned in the first place from being welded to the frame, unless the machining was done after the welding.

[The Buddha]

OK I have welded plenty to that area.
You do have to clear out all the crap that are in the way, stem included ... and stand by with a bucket of cold water, but you will be able to weld it without burning up anything.
In fact, wet it before you weld it, they can weld with water in the area. I'd actually take the stem down into the tubes for not burning up the plastic cage in the lower stem bearing. You would get a ear made to the right size and shape put it ther and tack it. Then wet it and tack some more, wet and tack ... Nothing is gonna warp unless you weld it thinking you're welding boiler plate.
Cool.
Buddha.

[tt_four]

Just for reference, before I post my idea... This was made without actually looked at the head tube of a GS to see how it may affect any type of bearings or anything else.

Maybe you could make a new tab to fit there, bent down at a 90 degree angle, drill a couple small holes in the frame under it, and attach it with some rivets? Just an idea. You'd have to get enough rivets in there for it to hold, and even at that point you'd have to be gentle with it every time you parked, and know that it would rip out if you crashed. It might be in a spot where you could not do anything of that sort because it could hit the bearings, I'm not too sure. Maybe a little JBweld on the back just to reinforce.

I still think welding is your only good option. I'm just trying to think of things that may work, if even just temporary, seeing as how the steering stop really has no affect on your safety or anything like that.

Another question... Are bikes required to have a side stand?? Maybe you could just pull off the sidestand, and take the bike in for the inspection with only the center stand! If they didn't have to park the bike leaned over, they might not really think about it. I don't know how strict they are where you are.

[sledge]

http://www.ukmot.com/bike_index.asp

The inspection of lockstops if originaly fitted is a requirement of the MOT test. The rule of thumb is that any structual repairs generaly have to meet manufacturers standards. A lenient inspector might and I say might let a riveted stop pass if it looks substantial. No chance with JB weld, self-tappers or bits of tyre stuck on! The best way to find out what is acceptable is to visit a station or MOT authorised dealer, ask the question and discuss options.

[tt_four]

I guess that explains why all the streetfighters from Europe always look amazing, and all the streetfighters from the US are always just spray painted black. They could never get away with building their bikes if they didn't look like that.