THROTTLE VALVE CONTROL LEVER ADJUSTMENT???

[zukiboi]

Hi, i need help regarding my 96 gs500 bike, it has 7800K on it, all stock .

The problem: My bike is complete stock, was running great before i decided to do some mods/cleaning to it, so i pulled out the carbs, cleand'um (never needed it), put new 127.5 mains (i got the small round head ones by mistake, is that ok?) , 40 pilots, and one washer on each needle, just as Jeff'D write up explained. The problem i am having is the bike is not idling properly, would idle at 3-4000 rpm with the choke engaged for about a 1min, the rpms would dip then, bounce abit at 1000-2000rpm and then die. Trying yo start it back up seemed like it is draining the battery. I would have to let it sit for a few minutes before i could start it back up. So just like many of you have suggested, I AM going to tear it apart again, check-re check, including my valves, floats, sync...etc) oh and i also put in new ngk plugs.

The problem i need a solution on is the throttle valve screw. While i has hooking the throttle cable back onto the carburator, i somehow turned the little screw inbetween the carbs thats connected to the throttle mechanism, one way or the other...what does this lever do? what would be the correct position (#of turns back to factory setting)...? would this cause the problems that im having with the idling?

Another issue im having is a drain hose that I dont know where it goes    this is on the left side of the bike (there are three hoses connected to one clamp that flow out onto the ground), one goes to the bottom of the gas tank (has a nipple), one for the airbox drain hose, and what is the third skinny one for (smaller diameter) ? Is that the battery breather hose? I do have one attached to my battery but it is a clear one... using all the resources here, I am confindent that all hoses from the carbs, tank, petcock are hooked in correct.

any help is appreciated,

viki

PART #50 is what i am questioning about,

http://faq.f650.com/FAQs/Photos/CarbnJetPhotos/GS500ECarburetorKLMNPRST-1989-1996.jpg

[romulux]

The screw you're referring to adjusts the carburetor synchronization.  It will change how open one throttle valve is in relation to the other.  To set it correctly, you would use a carb sync tool which you can make with about $5 or $10 worth of supplies and about 20 minutes of your time.

That screw is not causing the problems you're experiencing.

[romulux]

Photos might help with the unknown tube.

I'll enumerate all the hoses I can think of in that area...

- 2 running from the tank petcock to the frame petcock
- one vent tube running from the tank to under the bike
- one fuel supply running from the frame petcock to the bottom T fitting of the carbs
- one vent running from the upper T of the carbs to under the bike
- one vacuum tube connecting the carbs to the frame petock.  The nipple for this is on the engine side of the carbs.  The nipple on the opposite carb body should be plugged with a cap.
- engine breather tube from the top of the valve covers to the top of the airbox
- airbox drain, a larger diameter tube connected to the bottom of the airbox
- battery vent


Am I missing any?

[007brendan]

Make sure you didn't knock off the vacuum hose from the carbs to the frame-mounted fuel petcock.  I did that the first time I took my carbs off.

[zukiboi]

cool, thanks guys...i will check to see if i didnt knock off any hoses, i strongy believe the extra hose is the battery vent since the ID doesnt match any for the carb, but will check again... the carb sync tool, ill look into that as well...

regarding the small head main jets that i installed, just to know, could these be a culprit too? i will go ahead and change them to the large round ones as specified...

[zukiboi]

I fixed it....

i had problems with the bike after a carb clean, couldnt get it to idle without holdin on the throttle...and i could smell gas when i revved it, even though there was no apparent leak or flooding from the carbs. The choke did not help either and the rev meter jumped around. read the full synopsis below

heres what i did:

- adjusted the float height- checked rechecked using the tube method...
- replaced the o-rings for the seats and the o-ring on the float itself (the tiny one)
- replaced the main jet (127.5 small head) with the (127.5 large head), i dont think made any difference but still changed'm
- checked and clean out all vent tubes (there was no obstruction)
- removed air screws and cleaned'm, and adjusted 3 turns out (this is for a stock bike)
- checked the spark plugs, (were fouled), after the float height adjustment, they sparked clean,

doing all this, the bike started fine, idled well when in neutral, but the shifter was not engaging properly (couldnt get into neutral until i shut it off), i did a one mile test run and came to a complete stop...the bike started hesitating and died...i could get it started but it would die on me if i came to a complete stop.

- one recommendation from other posts..( change the oil) with symptons such as mine,

so i removed the dip stick, to a sniff at it.....ahhh ...gas...lots of gas....did an oil change, new filter too, and.... it runs (well atleast for 2 miles so far), no more smell of gas when I rev it, hasn't died on me at a stop...will do another longer run and see. Gas and all the carb cleaner, wd-40, etc had gotten into the engine oil when i was workin on the carbs (floodin it like a gazillon times)

- the next stop...valve check/adjustment.

thanks guys for all the valuable info on this site....

"When you feel like giving up, remember why you held on for so long in the first place." ~ Unknown

[Homer]

Should think about getting new float needles, then.  Just a precaution. 

I like your avatar.