problem with drive chain

[manoj]

when I spin the rear wheel is neutral,at one point the chain tightens and if continue spinning the wheel ...the chain loosens up again
this is leading to intermittent sound when riding in low gear
and chain slack needs to be adjusted every 200/300 mile

what may be causing this?
bent rim
sprocket
drive chain
bearing/rear wheel hub
or anything else

Manoj

[Paulcet]

Probably worn out chain.  How many miles and how well taken care of?  Is it a high quality O-ring chain or a cheap one?

[manoj]

The chain has at-least 12000 miles on it...It is a "O"- type chain and It has been lubricated at regular interval

Manoj

[mullan]

The chain has at-least 12000 miles on it...It is a "O"- type chain and It has been lubricated at regular interval

12000 miles is about 19,000km.  I am on my third chain now, and the previous 2 needed replacing at about 16,000km.  I admit I didn't care for the chains enough (I guess I should get more mileage?), and towards the end I had to adjust the chain weekly until I conceded defeat and replaced them myself.

This morning I had to adjust the latest chain, and it only had 2,500 kms on it.  Is this normal?  Maybe it is a rubbish chain?  What chain is best recommended for the GS500?

[mullan]

Just to add to my previous post: I also change the sprockets at the same time as the chain....

[gsJack]

when I spin the rear wheel is neutral,at one point the chain tightens and if continue spinning the wheel ...the chain loosens up again............................chain slack needs to be adjusted every 200/300 mileManoj

That's always due to kinking links when I get it but of course that's related to chain wear.  After the chain seals get worn the lube goes and the links begin sticking in the shape they take going around the sprockets.  Frequent adjustments of a 0-ring chain means worn chain.

................I am on my third chain now, and the previous 2 needed replacing at about 16,000km..................

That's rather short chain life in both cases.  I ride year around here in NE Ohio splashing thru much salt water every winter and got 14,000-19,000 from the many chains I've used on my GS's so far.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v443/jcp8832/GS500_brakes_chains.jpg

[mullan]

I am also a year-round rider, but due to my own laziness and perhaps a lot of sandy-dust grains on the roads I use due to local geology, I think I don't get the most from the chains.

gsJack:  would you suggest the DID chain?  You seem something of an expert, so I wonder if you know what I should ask for when I say I need the chain link with the hollowed-out ends which are easy to "mushroom" out when rivetting?  The last links didn't have this hollowed-out tip and it was a nightmare to rivet.

Manoj: sorry mate, didn't mean to hijack your post but maybe this advice is good for both of us.

[manoj]

I have slightly used chain which has around 4000 miles on it,will useit till I order one online
this is my first time changing chain... do I need to break the link or would I be able to remove the chain without breaking the link

I put mostly freeway miles on my bike,almost 150 miles everyday .......what teeth sprocket setting is best for freeway for 90'GS

Manoj

[black and silver twin]

If its the original chain it will have to be broken off, or cut off like i did.

[mister]

I've just put 22,000km (13,750 miles) on my OEM chain and it's still looking good and there is plenty of adjustment left if I need it. Sprockets look good too. And, like Jack, I ride year round in all kinds of weather.

I ride smoothly. That is, no jackrabbit starts and heavy braking for this fellow. Sledge talked about Mechanical Sympathy. I have it. And I think being smooth puts less strain on the chain. So how is your riding style then?

Michael

[utgunslinger13]

Can't you just remove the rear wheel and the cover over the front sprocket to remove the chain?

[Paulcet]

Can't you just remove the rear wheel and the cover over the front sprocket to remove the chain?

It's that pesky swingarm pivot that gets in the way.

[manoj]

I think mine is not the original chain that comes with the bike,the previous owner had changed the chain, would I still need link breaker to remove chain or is there a simpler method.
and does the new chain come with both ends of chain connected or do I need to connect the ends
Manoj

[trumpetguy]

You can buy either type.  Some chains come needing to be riveted together with a special tool. Some come with a master link.  Both types have vocal and loyal proponents.

I'm not a stunt rider or daredevil rider, so I was very comfortable buying the master link type.  If you get the master link type, be SURE to a) follow the instructions about which direction the open end of the clip faces, and b) be sure to fully engage the clip, and that is usually somewhat difficult.

[mullan]

I am a slow and gentle rider, yet this latest chain is wearing really quick.

The Haynes manual says never to use a masterlink chain and it seems really big on warning against this type of link. 

After changing my chain now 2 times, I cut the chain off using a special metal cutter which fits into a normal drill, like this:
http://www.beacontrade.co.uk/imageuploads/metal_cutting_disc.jpg

I only had to remove the back wheel and partially remove the casing where the gear lever is inserted into the bike.  I didn't have to remove anything major otherwise.  Quite easy really.  Just put some grease on the huge long bolt thingymajig you remove to get the back wheel off, as it makes it easy to remove next time you need to get the wheel off.

Rivetting is the tricky part I find.  I found the kind of link which is easy to rivet and would really advise you ensure this is the style of link you get:
http://www.moto-racing.co.uk/item--DID-Chain-Links-520VM-X-Ring-Gold-RL520VM--DID+Link+RL520VM.html

With these links, you can use a ball bearing and a g-clamp to flatten the ends and avoid the need for expensive rivet tools:
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/thumb/2/2a/G-clamp.jpg/250px-G-clamp.jpg

Just my opinions, but I am still quite a novice.

[gsJack]

gsJack:  ............would you suggest the DID chain?................... 

I put DID replacement chains on my GS500s because they came with DID and I put RK chains on my old Hondas because they came with RK and also remember using a couple Tsubaki chains somewhere along the line.  I switched to the RK on the last GS chain because the DID price went up and the RK was a better buy.  No particular brand loyalty on chains.

............The Haynes manual says never to use a masterlink chain and it seems really big on warning against this type of link................. 

Both my 97 and 02 GS500s came with continuous chains and I cut them off with a hacksaw and replaced them with chains having clip type master links.  Three of my four previous Hondas (CB400T, CB750K, CM400A) all came with clip type master links and I replaced them with the same.  I've always used clip type master links and never had a problem with any of them but you do need to get them on right.

My first Hondas came with loose fit clip type master links and replacements were the same.  The clip type master links I've been getting for my GS's have a heavy press fit now and are stronger than the old slip fit ones.  All replacements seem to be of this type now.  I hope to always be able to get the clip type so I never have to rivet one.  I found this DID bar graph that shows a comparison of the links.  They claim their rivet type are equal in strength to the other chain links, the press fit clip type are 80% strength, and the old slip fit only about 65% strength.  I might get a rivet type for a GSXR but I'm happy with the press on clip type master links I use on the GS's.

[manoj]

the clip on my current chain is kinda loose and had once ridden without the master clip on chain for few thousand miles without realizing he clip had broken off.

not sure which chain I have on right now other than its O-RING type

So if I am correct master-clip type chain would be the one I need to get if need to install without any special tool and if so what is its spec.

Manoj

[007brendan]

Just a quick note for people who seem to be having quick chain wear.  Maintenance schedule says to clean and lube your chain every 600 miles, or sooner if you're riding in dirty, dusty conditions.  When I was first looking for a bike, I ran into a bike mechanic that said that cleaning your chain and changing the oil often are the two best ways to improve the longevity of your bike.

[mullan]

the press fit clip type are 80% strength, and the old slip fit only about 65% strength.  I might get a rivet type for a GSXR but I'm happy with the press on clip type master links I use on the GS's.

Could it be that the Haynes manual is basing its advice on the 65% strength, but now the new 80% one is perfectly safe?  I don't doubt your opinions, but this is interesting and I want to make sure if I cut corners I am not risking safety.  It would be a lot handier never riveting again ;o)

[gsJack]

the clip on my current chain is kinda loose and had once ridden without the master clip on chain for few thousand miles without realizing he clip had broken off.
not sure which chain I have on right now other than its O-RING type
So if I am correct master-clip type chain would be the one I need to get if need to install without any special tool and if so what is its spec.
Manoj

It's important to install the clip correctly to be sure it won't come off.  After pressing on the master link side plate I put the large end of the tapered clip slot over each pin seperately and make sure it will slide freely to the small end of the slot to confirm the side plate is on far enough for the clip to seat properly in it's grooves.  Make sure it's installed with the closed end toward the direction of rotation when you put it on as directed on any new chain box I've ever seen.

Any major brand 520 x 110 link O-ring chain with a clip type master link works for me. They use to come with both a clip type and a rivet type master link but now seem to be coming with the rivet type only.  Dennis Kirk still has a supply of the clip type links sold seperately but the day could come when only the rivet type will be available.