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Bike won't turn over, HELP!!!

Started by octane, October 25, 2003, 03:52:42 PM

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octane

I finally got the time to finish putting my bike together this week. I got the jetted carbs back in, installed the ignition advancer, got everything tuned and running nice. I needed to bleed the brakes, so I hadn't ridden the bike yet, but I got the brakes done today, go to start the bike and NOTHING! No click, no crank, no noise, nothing. For the past 2 nights I've been messing with it in the garage and it was running perfect. The battery is 3 days old, fully charged, etc. I did install a new aftermarket headlight/fairing this week, but the bike ran fine after I put it on and no other wiring has been touched. The fuse is fine, all connections seem fine. I took the start button/switch off and cleaned the contacts, etc. Nothing. I'm baffled and a little irritated. Any ideas?

yamahonkawazuki

been there! aint that a Buddha Loves You?, lets for the time being, go with the simple checks 1,fuses, 2.battery cables, 3. side stand switch, and 4.make sure in neutralalthough you've probably already thought of this :oops:
Jan 14 2010 0310 I miss you mom
Vielen dank Patrick. Vielen dank
".
A proud Mormon
"if you come in with the bottom of your cast black,
neither one of us will be happy"- Alan Silverman MD

glenn9171

And the kill switch on the right bar.

gsJack

If you just put on a fairing, make sure you didn't knock one of the wires loose at the clutch lever safety switch.  Been there, done that. :lol:

octane

Check on everything, still nothing. Guess I'm gonna have to take the ignition box out and run it to the dealer to be tested. Thanks for the suggestions.

KevinC

The ignition box doesn't have anything to do with whether it cranks or not, only whether you get spark.

You have an open either from the battery to the starter (ignition switch, fuse, relay, connections, starter button, kill switch), or in the safety interclocks (wiring, clutch switch, side stand switch, connections).

Just because they look OK doesn't mean anything, they need to be tested for electrical continuity. Are you checking the fuse in use, or the spare fuse? That mistake has been made more than once. Replace the fuse anyway, clean the battery terminals and cables, and then start checking things with a multi-meter.

octane

Thanks Kevin, I'll give that a shot tonight. Where is the clutch switch?

KevinC

There is a switch in the clutch perch that closes when the clutch is pulled in. You can bypass it and/or the sidestand interlock by connecting the two wires leading to the switches directly together.

gsJack

Quote from: octaneThanks Kevin, I'll give that a shot tonight. Where is the clutch switch?

The one on the left handlebar near the clutch lever that was mentioned above.  Two spade type plug-ins.  Get knocked loose real easily.  I'm still betting on that one.   :lol:  :lol:  :lol:  :mrgreen:

octane

Thanks for all your help guys. The KevinC elimination method worked. I don't have a multimeter, but I manually closed each of the switches with no luck, then bridged the starter relay with a screwdriver and the starter turned, so I traced it back up to the starter switch. Followed those wire down and found the culprit. Down in the wiring harness one of the starter switch wires was pulled loose and had an open connection. I must have pulled it loose when I was mounting the fairing. Good calls fellas. Thanks again.

BTW, tonight was the first time I actually got to ride the bike with all the new mods. Feels good. Short ride tonight since it's raining here, but I'm looking forward to good weather!

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