Front Brake Freeplay

[conoral11]

Hi there,

I've been trying to solve my front brake spongyness for quite some time now.

My bike is a 1995, and when I got here the brake lever was broken.

I replaced the brake lever and bleed the system with new fluid, but the brake was still spongy.

I've bench bleed the master cylinder, bleed at the M/C banjo and of course the bleed nipple, making sure i've used grease around the threads to stop any air getting in.

I've got a Stainless Steel briaded front line.

I've replaced the front brake hose on my dads Honda GB500 (not a typo!) and the brake is solid as soon as the rear brake light switch engages.

My suzuki isn't. I have more free play than the honda, and I can move the lever to the bar (on the furthest setting) with a bit of force. the brake engages after the brake light switch does.

The brake works, and has for the past 1000 miles but i'm not confident with it, unlike my dads honda.

I've picked up another M/C and it reduced the freeplay a little, but not much.

So my question is, how much free play should the front brake lever have?

[black and silver twin]

the handle should be very firm after a small initial travel. I cant phisically get my handle within 3/4" of the bars even squeezing with all my might (mite?). It sounds like there is still air in the system some where, I have also seen some bikes with really old pads have a spongy feel.

[conoral11]

Thanks for the reply. My brake pads were replaced a few months ago and have plenty of padding left.

I just can't beleive there is still air in the system, but there must.

I can't see any leaks anywhere (tested with some tissue paper on all the joints.

I've got a new bleed nipple coming in a few days, since mines very rusty and rounded.

I'll take it from there.

[conoral11]

For anyone who is interested, i'm getting 40mm of freeplay, in comparison to 10mm on my dads bike....

I've inspected the front caliper and nothing is leaking.

There no bubbles comming out from the bleed screw or air at any of the banjo bolts.

[burning1]

The older style brake callipers are noticeably more spongy than the new 1996+ callipers. The GS overall is a very simple system to bleed. A vacuum bleed to pull fluid through, followed by a reverse bleed and a traditional push bleed using the brake levers has been good enough that I've had no fluid fade dispite using my brakes hard enough on the track to discolor the pads, warp pads, and ruin 2 rotors.

If you used old fluid, or low grade fluid, I'd expect problems however. Also... Are you *sure* that the lever is at the widest setting? I've made that mistake before...

[conoral11]

Thanks for the input burning1,

I've taken alook at the caliper, and I can see the pistons moving as soon as a move the lever. Could it be possible that my caliper isn't letting my pistons move out, in such as the way they're ment to cope with you wearing your pads down over time?

Conoral11

[burning1]

It's highly unlikely. If the pistons aren't moving out, your brakes won't work. It's far more common for the pistons to insufficiently retract, causing the brakes to drag.

[JAY W]

You could try clamping lever back overnight with a zip tie to self bleed,other than that i`d check both passages are clear in master cyl`,and seals not weaping.I cannot pull my 89 brake lever more than 3/4 in.

[conoral11]

I've tried the zip tie method.

And the master cylinder is fine, no leaks or air.

I've got the feeling that the seals in the caliper have gone. When i got the bike last year I had to rebuild the rear caliper because it had seized.

Mabye something similar has happened with the front

Conoral11

[burning1]

I would recommend you install a 1996+ or a SV650 caliper. The older caliper doesn't work very well.

[conoral11]

With regards to the sv650 caliper, is it a direct bolt on? is there a difference between left and right?

I take it any caliper from the gs after 1996 will fit?

Conoral11

[burning1]

The SV650 Caliper is a direct bolt on. You can use your existing caliper bolts, and brake line fittings. It's almost identical to the 1996+ GS500 caliper; but it takes thicker seals, and ever-so-slightly larger pistons. If you go this route, you will need the right side brake caliper. The left side will not fit the GS.

Any 1996+ brake caliper will also work.