Oil filter cap screw snap.

[LetsBeFriends]

so during an oil change today i over tightened one of the three oil filter cap screws and the threads snapped off... im not even sure where to go from here, is the bike trashed or is it fixable. please help

[JAY W]

Is it snapped flush or do you have any protruding stud,its most likely you will need to drill and rethread.

[twelvepoint]

This thread may be helpful.

http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=47506.0

[LetsBeFriends]

that thread my save me, thanks a lot

[Firewalker]

That has happened more than once.  At least you know how little torque it takes to snap one of those guys off.  Good luck on the fix.

Hope it's pretty painless for you.

Scott

[ojstinson]

Congratulations!, Haven't seen one of those in a day or two, guess you didn't have the time, inclination, or curiosity to check older post. Sure wish I had bought stock in GS oil filter studs and nuts when I had the chance.

[LetsBeFriends]

Congratulations!, Haven't seen one of those in a day or two, guess you didn't have the time, inclination, or curiosity to check older post. Sure wish I had bought stock in GS oil filter studs and nuts when I had the chance.

really do not appreciate the sarcasm, i did not know this was a common problem as i am very new to bikes and working with engines in general. ill look for older post next time i have an issue so that you do not need to waste your time reading mine

[ojstinson]

"i did not know this was a common problem as i am very new to bikes and working with engines in general" ----All the more reason to do some checking into things, That's what this is all about, if you don't want to take a little time to at least semi-educate yourself ( it's all there for the taking ) then I guess you lose.

[johnny ro]

if you want to see some really offensive flames to people who don't read FAQ or search, try the Ninja 250 forum. I like this site because people are so polite. Same for TW200 site and V-strom site. Miata.

Personally I find it to usually be faster to search than to ask, the answer is usually a few  clicks away.

[ojstinson]

Right you are Johnny, compared to those you listed mine was just a good natured little nudge and a wink.

[twelvepoint]

Literally every issue I've had with my GS, as well as every hypothetical situation I've dreamed up, has already been covered here multiple times. I think of posts like this as more of way of saying hi.

[LetsBeFriends]

lesson learned, thanks for the help.

[sledge]

You are not the first to shear one of these studs and bring the problem to light in here and you certainly wont be the last! it seems to happen with an alarming regularity. I dont see it as an inherrent design issue by Suzuki like many do because if the removal and refitting procedure is followed correctly and with competance there will be no issues. Suzuki could I suppose fit studs that have a higher tensile strength which would reduce the chance of them shearing but why should they if lower grade ones will suffice.

The most suitable repair method will depend on how and exactly where the stud has sheared relative to the casing. So much has been said on this subject in the past it is impossible to add anything other than to suggest you search the many many comments on the subject and decide what for you will be the best way of tackling the problem.

Dont take the "search newbie" comments to heart.....people just get fed up repeating the same old things.

[johnny ro]

Has anyone mentioned that a mudflap on front fender might help keep the oil filter area clean, for less issues when doing oil change? Even though it uses acorn nuts on the cover if I remember right. I rememer lots of dirt when I took my filter off.

I use a "fenda-extenda" myself, thinking homemade rubber mudflaps look too homemade. 

I use hugger on rear, with full OEM fender, cause the hugger keeps clean the area under airbox. Factory setup has mudflap above swingarm axle that is not very effective.

[Firewalker]

lesson learned, thanks for the help.

Did you get it fixed?  Hope so.   Good luck to you.

[LetsBeFriends]

i have not gotten it fixed yet, there was enough of the bolt sticking out that i thought i may be able to use two nuts and back out the bolt myself. sadly that was not the case, and i do not really feel comfortable putting a dremel near the engine block cause if you nick that... its all over, so sadly the bike will be going to my dealer where i will pay dearly for my mistake

[Firewalker]

I am assuming you can't get a set of vice grips on it?  With two nuts worth sticking out I would think you might be able to grab it.  Or if one nut can be started you can put a mig tack on the nut inside and put a socket on it.  I have had decent luck using an easy out system on things like this but worse.  Like a rusted in water jacket bolt.  Those bolts are pretty weak and although I haven't snapped one on the bike I have done it plenty on other things I have worked on.  I think it is something in the back of our minds that tells us we will have a leak if it's not tight.  Some of the gaskets/seal are so efficient you can just snug it and it works.  I wish you the best of luck with it. 

Be safe.

Scott
 

[reload]

i have not gotten it fixed yet, there was enough of the bolt sticking out that i thought i may be able to use two nuts and back out the bolt myself. sadly that was not the case, and i do not really feel comfortable putting a dremel near the engine block cause if you nick that... its all over, so sadly the bike will be going to my dealer where i will pay dearly for my mistake

no stealerships! for the love of gs lol. i really think you can do this yourself. the monkey at the dealership is just gonna pound on it anyway so you might as well tackle it on your own.

if anything just drill and tap. use a bolt instead of a stud. or whatever works. g'luck

[sledge]

I love all the "just do" suggestions that get posted whenever the subject of broken header or filter bolts/studs is raised  I appreciate that people are trying to help and are offering what they consider to be helpful advice but how many people who say "use an easy-out" or "just drill the broken bolt out" have actually and successfully pulled what they suggest off for themselves??

"just drill and tap"...yeah....sounds dead easy......but..... What size drill? What type of drill? What speed works best? Do I need coolant? What size tap do I need to clean the thread out......how do I clean the thread out? How do I stop the drill wandering? Am I likely to damage the case if I get it wrong? What happens if I do and how can it be put right? Can I even get a drill in there??!!.

A little knowledge is a dangerous thing.

This link explains it all.....

http://www.renaultalpineownersclub.com/Freeing%20bolts.htm

It should be posted as a sticky 

[reload]

i dont mean to sound nasty or anything but it really isn't too hard.

use drill and tap charts. choose your thread of choice based on the available space. there are also cutting speeds and coolants/lubricants for various materials out there. a google search goes a long way.

it's tough stuff yes but the difference is the man who is willing to learn and try anything and those who simply give up.

i am a self taught mechanic/machinist.  i love this stuff and i figure anyone of these forums would be the same way.