oil for an older bike

[ridata3]

so my gs500 has quite a few miles on it and has seen better days, lately when i do an oil change i notice very small leaks, does anyone recommend any specific oil for an older bike that is not as thin? this bike is just a commuter here and there and its not worth the trouble replacing the gaskets, thanks for any suggestions.

[redhenracing2]

I have only used thicker oil to reduce valve ticks and the like, never to reduce a leak. I don't know that it would have that effect, but it can't hurt to try.

[Suzuki Stevo]

15w-50 would be my first guess, 20w-50 would be my second 

[ivany]

15w-50 would be my first guess, 20w-50 would be my second 

I would noooot do this. Running a thicker oil than an engine is designed for will result in higher oil pressures and poor lubrication performance. I wouldn't run anything other than the spec 10W-40 (5W-40 and 15W-40 is probably OK though).

[Suzuki Stevo]

I would noooot do this. Running a thicker oil than an engine is designed for will result in higher oil pressures and poor lubrication performance. I wouldn't run anything other than the spec 10W-40 (5W-40 and 15W-40 is probably OK though).

Lets see what section 2-3 of the '07 GS500F Owners Manual sez?
Yes in a perfect world 10w-40 would be ideal, I'm taking the OP's word that "my gs500 has quite a few miles on it and has seen better days" using a higher viscosity oil has been the norm for high mileage engines for as long as I can remember. Another factor is where you live, say..Alaska or Hawaii, you know extremes like that come into play also.  

[twocool]

I would noooot do this. Running a thicker oil than an engine is designed for will result in higher oil pressures and poor lubrication performance. I wouldn't run anything other than the spec 10W-40 (5W-40 and 15W-40 is probably OK though).

Lets see what section 2-3 of the '07 GS500F Owners Manual sez?
Yes in a perfect world 10w-40 would be ideal, I'm taking the OP's word that "my gs500 has quite a few miles on it and has seen better days" using a higher viscosity oil has been the norm for high mileage engines for as long as I can remember. Another factor is where you live, say..Alaska or Hawaii, you know extremes like that come into play also.  

Here we go again with the oil deal!

I'm tempted to say, if you have an old bike.... just use old oil   (that's a joke son, a joke)

Really.........the viscosity of the oil to use is based on ambient temperature........not the wear on the engine......

If an oil leak is the problem........oil is not the answer........fixing the leak is the answer.......it's just that simple!

Cookie

[Suzuki Stevo]

Here we go again with the oil deal!

I'm tempted to say, if you have an old bike.... just use old oil   (that's a joke son, a joke)

Really.........the viscosity of the oil to use is based on ambient temperature........not the wear on the engine......

If an oil leak is the problem........oil is not the answer........fixing the leak is the answer.......it's just that simple!

Cookie

I've seen guys dump 90w gear oil in an engine to reduce oil consumption, and yes NOT for an oil leak but for oil getting past the rings. STP, Hiltons Hyper Lube and the like are good for this, my brother had an old flathead he used 50w racing oil in to slow down oil consumption. Not sure if the OP is getting oil past his rings but, changing the viscosity on a high mileage engine is actually quite common...well at least it was 40 years ago when I started wrenching.   

[gsJack]

I had four Hondas before my two GS500s that were made to run on regular gas and I ran 20W-50 oil in them summers after they had some miles on them.  All four progressed from regular to mid grade to premium gas to eliminate heavy gas knock under acceleration in the summer as they became carboned up over the years.  I ran 15W-50 Mobil 1 synthetic in my 97 GS500E for 50k miles and it progressed to premium the same way the Hondas did.  After 50k miles when the oil consumption increased considerably I switched to the 15W-40 heavy duty dino truck oils like Delvac, Rotella T, etc that were becoming popular with bikers and were much less expensive than the Mobil 1 and it ran on regular gas without any further gas knock for the next 30k miles I used it.

My current 02 GS500 has only seen the 15W-40 oils and regular grade gas since I've had it and has yet to have any gas knock.  It had 4k miles on it when I bought it and has over 83.5k miles now and still runs like new.  Oil has two functions in an air cooled engine, to lubricate and to cool, and a lighter oil flows more freely and cools the head area better than a heavier one and it's the combination of high compression and engine heat that causes gas knock.  Your GS500 will run better on regular gas than on premium if it doesn't knock on regular.  Premium gas causes the fuel/air mix to burn slower to eliminate knock on higher compression engines.  The Rotella T 15W-40 dino juice now carries the JASO MA designation.

My GS's both had/have a considerable amount of oil seepage on the engine that is particularly noticeable by spring and I just wash my bike including the engine at the magic wand car wash once every spring whether it needs it or not, doesn't look too bad then for the summer.   

[The Buddha]

Rotella is good stuff, and only small item to add ... I use 10W40 accel walmart oil, Its SF rated. That is the only reason I like it. Oil made to 1990 specs for a bike made in 1989. Close enough.
Much like buddha born in 1969 has a VW beetle made in 1969. How old is the car - yea same age as me.
Cool.
Buddha.

[scratch]

Mineral oil is better for stopping up small leaks.  Synthetic will just squirt right through small leaks that mineral oil would otherwise just stop up.

[twocool]

I had four Hondas before my two GS500s that were made to run on regular gas and I ran 20W-50 oil in them summers after they had some miles on them.  All four progressed from regular to mid grade to premium gas to eliminate heavy gas knock under acceleration in the summer as they became carboned up over the years.  I ran 15W-50 Mobil 1 synthetic in my 97 GS500E for 50k miles and it progressed to premium the same way the Hondas did.  After 50k miles when the oil consumption increased considerably I switched to the 15W-40 heavy duty dino truck oils like Delvac, Rotella T, etc that were becoming popular with bikers and were much less expensive than the Mobil 1 and it ran on regular gas without any further gas knock for the next 30k miles I used it.

My current 02 GS500 has only seen the 15W-40 oils and regular grade gas since I've had it and has yet to have any gas knock.  It had 4k miles on it when I bought it and has over 83.5k miles now and still runs like new.  Oil has two functions in an air cooled engine, to lubricate and to cool, and a lighter oil flows more freely and cools the head area better than a heavier one and it's the combination of high compression and engine heat that causes gas knock.  Your GS500 will run better on regular gas than on premium if it doesn't knock on regular.  Premium gas causes the fuel/air mix to burn slower to eliminate knock on higher compression engines.  The Rotella T 15W-40 dino juice now carries the JASO MA designation.

My GS's both had/have a considerable amount of oil seepage on the engine that is particularly noticeable by spring and I just wash my bike including the engine at the magic wand car wash once every spring whether it needs it or not, doesn't look too bad then for the summer.   

We're sort of getting off the original topic...but so what....

Engine Oil has more than two purposes.......I come up with at least 5

1) Lubricate

2) Cool

3) Clean  (keeps dirt and combustion bi products particles in suspension and goes thru filter....prevents sludge build up in engine)

4) Cushion (keeps moving parts from "banging together"

5) Seal (piston rings)

This applies to air cooled or water cooled engines

Also in a motorcycle the oil cools the transmission (plus all of the above in trans.).

Some of the other stuff you mention above has to do with using "tricks" to mask or cover up problems..........

Like when you get carbon build up, you raise the compression ratio, so hi test gas may prevent knock........but the problem is not the gas....the problem is the carbon..........

Using thicker oil to reduce oil consumption sometimes does work, but the problem is rings and or valves..........not the oil........

As you mention, running too thick oil is not good either..........


Cookie