My First Bike!

[GreggSells]

New to the forum. Just bought my first bike a few weeks ago. 2009 GS500F with 0.5 miles on it. Still breaking in the engine!

http://www.imageurlhost.com/images/7m2im334frrrouzaud8u.jpg

[jwt0480]

Nice bike! Welcome.

Ride Safe

[mister]

Welcome Greg.

I should think with only half a mile on the bike that, yes indeed, you'd still be breaking in the engine.

Michael

[bkrtim]

Nice bike!   Welcome.

[TCARZ]

Congratulations on the new GS500F! You've got the best biking weather ahead of you.
Stay Safe & have fun! 

[GreggSells]

Welcome Greg.

I should think with only half a mile on the bike that, yes indeed, you'd still be breaking in the engine.

Michael

Thanks for the welcome.

I'm already closing in on 500 miles and thinking about switching to synthetic soon. I've heard debates on using conventional oil (which I'm using now) until 1500 miles to get the most out of the wearing in process, but I'm thinking about cutting that in half and switching to synthetic around 750 miles. Maybe I'm just being paranoid? I changed the factory oil 20 miles in. I'm sure I'm being over-protective, but I plan on owning this bike for a long time and want to get the most out of it.

Any thoughts/break-in tips?

[mister]

Break in tips?

Well, there are different schools of thought on that one...

- break it in according to the owners manual
- rev it close to redline in each of the first three gears a few times. But this is usually done Before you've even done 50 miles, so with ten times that there is now no point doing it that way so stick with the owner's manual way 

As for oil... well... here again there is NO Agreement. But I'll tell you what *I* have done...

Started with Motul 1000 for the first couple services. Switched to Motul 5100 for all the rest. And at the 36,000 service I have switched again to Motul 300V. I will be sticking with the 300V cause the gear changes are Way smoother. There is less clutch drag when cold. It's expensive and some people will say to use any old cheap ass crud. But My Experience tells me, the 300V is the bomb. I've now also put it into my Honda 919 as well I'm that pleased with it.

Keep the chain WELL Lubed. I do mine after every tank full or 2nd tank full (every 180 to 380 miles) - which for my riding means once or twice a week. Only takes seconds.

Michael

[rickyny]

Does anyone know if we can get Motul oil in US
and the price?
Thanks

[GreggSells]

Break in tips?

Well, there are different schools of thought on that one...

- break it in according to the owners manual
- rev it close to redline in each of the first three gears a few times. But this is usually done Before you've even done 50 miles, so with ten times that there is now no point doing it that way so stick with the owner's manual way 

As for oil... well... here again there is NO Agreement. But I'll tell you what *I* have done...

Started with Motul 1000 for the first couple services. Switched to Motul 5100 for all the rest. And at the 36,000 service I have switched again to Motul 300V. I will be sticking with the 300V cause the gear changes are Way smoother. There is less clutch drag when cold. It's expensive and some people will say to use any old cheap ass crud. But My Experience tells me, the 300V is the bomb. I've now also put it into my Honda 919 as well I'm that pleased with it.

Keep the chain WELL Lubed. I do mine after every tank full or 2nd tank full (every 180 to 380 miles) - which for my riding means once or twice a week. Only takes seconds.

Michael

Thanks for the advice. I did a hard break-in for the first twenty miles. Revved it high like you said, as well as hard engine-deceleration for 20 miles, then changed the break-in oil. I've read the first 20-50 miles are the most crucial for hard break-ins. I know there's endless debate between following the owner's manual and the "MotoMan" way. From what I've read, I tend to believe in hard break-ins, but seeing as this is my first break-in, only time will tell.

I'm using conventional oil right now, based on the hard break-in info I've read. The idea being, conventional creates more friction than synthetic; therefore allowing the piston rings to seal tighter. I've heard of people running conventional anywhere from the first 500 to 1500 miles, so I figure I'll switch to synthetic around 750. I'll check out the Motul oils you mentioned.

Does anyone have experience with AMSoil? People seem to swear by it, but I've read mixed reviews. I always figured oil was oil as long as you change it regularly, provided you don't go DIRT cheap; however, I never considered things like shifting smoothness.

[rickyny]

Greg I bought an 09 GS as well.
Can you tell me what size of the drain plug and the size of
the 3 nuts holding the filter cover?
I bought a Haynes manual but it doesn't tell me the size, just
the torque specs.
TIA

Ricky.

[Cosimo_Zaretti]

Greg I bought an 09 GS as well.
Can you tell me what size is the drain plug and the size of
the 3 nuts holding the filter cover?
I bought a Haynes manual but it doesn't tell me the size, just
the torque specs.
TIA

Ricky.

Best to just buy a cheap set of metric spanners and sockets to start yourself off, that way you can just see what fits.  Buying a new spanner every time you do something is an expensive way to build your toolkit.  The drain plug is a 22mm, the filter cover nuts are 10mm.  Now go and buy a cheap set of sockets ranging from 8-25mm and you should be set to work on your bike.

[rickyny]

Thanks Cosimo for specifying the size of plug and nuts.
As to working on my bike I don't think I will do anything more
than oil changes and lubricating the cables and drive chain.
Not being lazy, I'm just not competent.
I been reading the Haynes manual and I don't think I'll
be messing with the electrical, fuel, or ignition systems,
engine, clutch, transmission, or carburetors. I'll probably
just mess things up  .

[the mole]

Listen to Cosimo, we all started from where you're at and the GS is a relatively simple bike to learn mechanics on. Its pretty hard to mess things up AS LONG AS YOU DON'T OVERTIGHTEN THE FILTER COVER NUTS!!! .

[Cosimo_Zaretti]

If you only want to do very basic maintenance you should also know how to check and adjust your chain, and you'll need the correct sized sockets for the axle.  I won't try and give you the size, because I'm not 100% sure mine has the original axle nuts.  You don't have to know how to change tyres, brake pads and fork seals if that doesn't seem like a fun way to spend your evening, but you should at least know how to check them before you ride.  Knowing how to get the wheels off is probably a handy thing too . 

[rickyny]

Listen to Cosimo, we all started from where you're at and the GS is a relatively simple bike to learn mechanics on. Its pretty hard to mess things up AS LONG AS YOU DON'T OVERTIGHTEN THE FILTER COVER NUTS!!! .

I'm glad you brought this up!
So the Haynes manual says to tighten the nuts "SECURELY"...
What does this translate into? Hand tight and 1/4 turn or 1/2 a turn?
TIA,
Ricky.

[rickyny]

bump, need answer to my question ↑
Thanks.
                                                         

[TCARZ]

One thing that the Haynes manual mentioned was to put the O ring, for oil filter cover, in place with a smear of grease. That holds it in place, properly, so it doesn't get pinched. Then tighten the nuts just snug. The o ring will compress and keep the oil from leaking out.

[Allen]

If you know how to change the oil, thats great, changing the chain, brake pads, tires, adjusting valve clearances is more involved, but you will save a load of money.  With a combination of the haynes manual, the gs forum, and youtube, you'll be fine, don't be scared, its a great bike to learn on.

[Allen]

It just needs to be tight enought as to not leak oil.  Most bolts, I like to do finger tight and a quarter turn, but it just depends on how you feel i guess.  Especially the oil drain bolt, you don't want to cross thread, or over tighten it and strip the soft threads.

[mister]

Here are all the Haynes definitions you'll ever need.....

Haynes Repair Manuals – Terms Defined
For years, avid DIY mechanics have been trying to rely on Haynes Repair/Maintenance Manuals to help them work on their toys themselves. Often, this has ended up in said machine being taken to mechanic to fix what DIYer broke while trying to fix in first place. All because the DIYer didn't understand or know how to read the Haynes manual correctly. Hopefully, these definitions will solve that...

Haynes: Rotate anticlockwise.
Translation: Clamp with mole-grips (adjustable wrench / vice grips) then beat repeatedly with hammer anticlockwise. You do know which way is anticlockwise, don't you?

Haynes: Should remove easily.
Translation: Will be corroded into place ... clamp with adjustable wrench then beat repeatedly with a hammer.

Haynes: This is a snug fit.
Translation: You will skin your knuckles! ... Clamp with adjustable wrench then beat repeatedly with hammer.

Haynes: This is a tight fit.
Translation: Not a hope in hell, mate! ... Clamp with adjustable wrench then beat repeatedly with hammer.

Haynes: As described in Chapter 7...
Translation: That'll teach you not to read through before you start, now you are looking at scary photos of the inside of a gearbox.

Haynes: Pry...
Translation: Hammer a screwdriver into...

Haynes: Undo...
Translation: Go buy a tin of WD40 (catering size).

Haynes: Ease ...
Translation: Apply superhuman strength to ...

Haynes: Retain tiny spring...
Translation: "Jeez what was that, it nearly had my eye out"!

Haynes: Press and rotate to remove bulb...
Translation: OK - that's the glass bit off, now fetch some good pliers to dig out the bayonet part and remaining glass shards.

Haynes: Lightly...
Translation: Start off lightly and build up till the veins on your forehead are throbbing then re-check the manual because what you are doing now cannot be considered "lightly".

Haynes: Weekly checks...
Translation: If it isn't broken don't fix it!

Haynes: Routine maintenance...
Translation: If it isn't broken... it's about to be!

Haynes: One spanner rating (simple).
Translation: Your Mum could do this... so how did you manage to botch it up?

Haynes: Two spanner rating.
Translation: Now you may think that you can do this because two is a low, tiny, ikkle number... but you also thought that the wiring diagram was a map of the Tokyo underground (in fact that would have been more use to you).

Haynes: Three spanner rating (intermediate).
Translation: Make sure you won't need your car for a couple of days and that your AA cover includes Home Start.

Haynes: Four spanner rating.
Translation: You are seriously considering this aren't you, you pleb!

Haynes: Five spanner rating (expert).
Translation: OK, but don't expect us to ride it afterwards!!! 
Translation #2: Don't ever carry your loved ones in it again and don't mention it to your insurance company.

Haynes: If not, you can fabricate your own special tool like this...
Translation: Hahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha!!!!

Haynes: Compress...
Translation: Squeeze with all your might, jump up and down on, swear at, throw at the garage wall, then search for it in the dark corner of the garage whilst muttering "******" repeatedly under your breath.

Haynes: Inspect...
Translation: Squint at really hard and pretend you know what you are looking at, then declare in a loud knowing voice to your wife "Yep, as I thought, it's going to need a new one"!

Haynes: Carefully...
Translation: You are about to cut yourself!

Haynes: Retaining nut...
Translation: Yes, that's it, that big spherical blob of rust.

Haynes: Get an assistant...
Translation: Prepare to humiliate yourself in front of someone you know.

Haynes: Turning the engine will be easier with the spark plugs removed.
Translation: However, starting the engine afterwards will be much harder. Once that sinking feeling in the pit of your stomach has subsided, you can start to feel deeply ashamed as you gingerly refit the spark plugs.

Haynes: Refitting is the reverse sequence to removal.
Translation: But you swear in different places.

Haynes: Prise away plastic locating pegs...
Translation: Snap off...

Haynes: Using a suitable drift or pin-punch...
Translation: The biggest nail in your tool box isn't a suitable drift!

Haynes: Everyday toolkit
Translation: Ensure you have an RAC (ATM) Card & Mobile Phone

Haynes: Apply moderate heat...
Translation #1: Placing your mouth near it and huffing isn't moderate heat. 
Translation #2: Heat up until glowing red, if it still doesn't come undone use a hacksaw.
Translation #3: Unless you have a blast furnace, don't bother. Clamp with adjustable wrench then beat repeatedly with hammer.

Haynes: Index
Translation: List of all the things in the book bar the thing you want to do!

Haynes: Remove oil filter using an oil filter chain wrench or length of bicycle chain.
Translation: Stick a screwdriver through it and beat handle repeatedly with a hammer.

Haynes: Replace old gasket with a new one.
Translation: I know I've got a tube of Krazy Glue around here somewhere.

Haynes: Grease well before refitting.
Translation: Spend an hour searching for your tub of grease before chancing upon a bottle of washing-up liquid (dish soap). Wipe some congealed washing up liquid from the dispenser nozzle and use that since it's got a similar texture and will probably get you to Supercheap to buy some Castrol grease.

Haynes: See illustration for details
Translation: None of the illustrations notes will match the pictured exploded, numbered parts. The unit illustrated is from a previous or variant model. The actual location of the unit is never given. The best one I encountered was how to change a brake sensor in a Ford Fiesta Popular Plus. The photo showing the location of the unit failed to mention the crucial detail of whether the item was located in the engine compartment or inside the car ..... and the helpful photo of what the thing looked like didn't give the reader any clues!

HAYNES GUIDE TO TOOLS OF THE TRADE

HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer is nowadays used as a kind of divining rod to locate expensive parts not far from the object we are trying to hit.

MECHANIC'S KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on boxes containing seats and motorcycle jackets.

ELECTRIC HAND DRILL: Normally used for spinning steel Pop rivets in their holes until you die of old age, but it also works great for drilling mounting holes just above the brake line that goes to the rear wheel.

PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads.

HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle. It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes.

MOLE-GRIPS/ADJUSTABLE WRENCH/VICE GRIPS: Used to round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.

OXYACETYLENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable objects in your garage on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside a brake-drum you're trying to get the bearing race out of.

WHITWORTH SOCKETS: Once used for working on older cars and motorcycles, they are now used mainly for impersonating that 9/16 or 1/2 socket you've been searching for for the last 15 minutes.

DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across the room, splattering it against that freshly painted part you were drying.

WIRE WHEEL: Cleans rust off old bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprint whorls and hard-earned guitar calluses in about the time it takes you to say, "F...."

HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering car to the ground after you have installed your new front disk brake setup, trapping the jack handle firmly under the front wing.

EIGHT-FOOT LONG DOUGLAS FIR 2X4: Used for levering a car upward off a hydraulic jack.

TWEEZERS: A tool for removing wood splinters.

PHONE: Tool for calling your neighbor to see if he has another hydraulic floor jack.

SNAP-ON GASKET SCRAPER: Theoretically useful as a sandwich tool for spreading mayonnaise; used mainly for getting dog-doo off your boot.

BOLT AND STUD EXTRACTOR: A tool that snaps off in bolt holes and is ten times harder than any known drill bit.

TIMING LIGHT: A stroboscopic instrument for illuminating grease buildup.

TWO-TON HYDRAULIC ENGINE HOIST: A handy tool for testing the tensile strength of ground straps and brake lines you may have forgotten to disconnect.

CRAFTSMAN 1/2 x 16-INCH SCREWDRIVER: A large motor mount prying tool that inexplicably has an accurately machined screwdriver tip on the end without the handle.

BATTERY ELECTROLYTE TESTER: A handy tool for transferring sulfuric acid from a battery to the inside of your toolbox after determining that your battery is dead as a doornail, just as you thought.

AVIATION METAL SNIPS: See hacksaw.

INSPECTION LIGHT: The mechanic's own tanning booth. Sometimes called a drop light, it is a good source of vitamin D, "the sunshine vitamin," which is not otherwise found under cars at night. Health benefits aside, its main purpose is to consume 40-watt light bulbs at about the same rate as 105-mm howitzer shells during the Battle of the Bulge. More often dark than light, its name is somewhat misleading.

PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the lids of old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splash oil on your shirt; can also be used, as the name implies, to round off Phillips screw heads.

AIR COMPRESSOR: A machine that takes energy produced in a fossil-fuel burning power plant 200 miles away and transforms it into compressed air that travels by hose to a pneumatic impact wrench that grips rusty bolts last tightened 30 years ago by someone in Dagenham, and rounds them off.

PRY (CROW) BAR: A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 pence part.

HOSE CUTTER: A tool used to cut hoses 1/2 inch too short.

Hope this helps...

Michael