high idle

[Stallmaster]

hi,

Im kinda new with the motorcycle thing (bought my first bike this may). I bought a used 2006 gs500f with around 2k miles on it earlier this summer and whenever i ride it, the idles eems to jump from the standard 1200rpm to about 3500-4000rpm when i start to accelerate or whenever i stop for a light or stop sign. I have no idea if this is supposed to happen or not since im a beginner and know very little on the subject of motorcycles. Does anyone have any suggestions for me to fix this problem?

[Spuzzle]

Hi! Make sure you have the choke off!! My choke on my GS500F wouldn't actually kick in until i dabbed the throttle

also there is a white idle screw right under the fuel tank (there is a gap where the engine is and it pokes down) have a fiddle with that and see if you can bring the idle down!

Good luck =)

[Dr.McNinja]

Have you cleaned your carbs in a while? Start there. Run some Seafoam/B12 through the tank and see if it helps.

If that doesn't help, you could have a vacuum leak. Simple test is to spray WD40 on any gaskets (mainly the carb intake boots and the boots connecting the carbs and the airbox). Check your vacuum lines as well.

How soon does the high RPMs kick in? Immediately or after a long time into your ride? This information makes it easier to deduce whether you have a misadjusted idle or something more interesting.

[mister]

I bought a used 2006 gs500f with around 2k miles on it earlier this summer and whenever i ride it, the idles eems to jump from the standard 1200rpm to about 3500-4000rpm when i start to accelerate

Am I understanding this correctly... when you are stopped it idles at 1200rpm. but when you twist the throttle to go faster the tacho goes up as well, and you are wondering if this is Normal?

Is that what you are asking?

Michael

[Stallmaster]

my bike starts to idle around 3500-4000rpm basically as soon as i ride it for more than a few minutes. As soon as the choke is off, my rpms increase. ive just always noticed it when i slow down or stop at a red light.

[Dr.McNinja]

my bike starts to idle around 3500-4000rpm basically as soon as i ride it for more than a few minutes. As soon as the choke is off, my rpms increase. ive just always noticed it when i slow down or stop at a red light.

Have you played with your idle settings? If so, it's probably a misadjusted idle. Readjust it when it's warm and the choke is off. Otherwise, you may have a vacuum leak somewhere. Use the WD40 trick I suggested earlier and listen for changes in engine sound. Spray it when the RPMs are acting up.

[MysterYvil]

If the revs are staying up after you've closed the throttle, you may have "hanging idle," i.e., the motor keeps running at 3k-4k RPMs for a few seconds after the throttle is closed.  Mrs.'s GS started doing that after about 400 miles.  Very irritating in general but especially when doing mountain twisties!

Easy fix, though:  warm the moto up thoroughly, then use the idle knob (behind the carbs, over the transmission, but beware, it's HOT back there) and set the RPMs to around 1200.  If it still hangs, dial down, and if it wants to stall dial up.  Took me around 20 minutes to get it right.

[Dr.McNinja]

If the revs are staying up after you've closed the throttle, you may have "hanging idle," i.e., the motor keeps running at 3k-4k RPMs for a few seconds after the throttle is closed.  Mrs.'s GS started doing that after about 400 miles.  Very irritating in general but especially when doing mountain twisties!

Easy fix, though:  warm the moto up thoroughly, then use the idle knob (behind the carbs, over the transmission, but beware, it's HOT back there) and set the RPMs to around 1200.  If it still hangs, dial down, and if it wants to stall dial up.  Took me around 20 minutes to get it right.

The problem is if it's not just a problem with the idle becoming misadjusted all you're doing is masking a problem that could become more serious if it's not found early on. Hence why I suggested to do that first if and only if he's played with the idle before. It's important he investigates the possibility of a clogged pilot circuit or vacuum leak before that because he could really compromise the well-being of his bike. 

I had a similar problem not but a month ago and fixed it by cleaning the carbs. My pilot circuit was a bit clogged which caused the bike to run lean (hence the high idle) when I'd arrive at a stop light unless I used engine braking to bring it down as I slowed down. It was very noticeable in turns to the point I'd almost under-compensate for engine speed.

[Stallmaster]

I think that im gonna try to adjust the idle knob first and if that doesnt seem to help ill try to get someone who knows how to clean the carbs (or learn myself) and do that after.  Thanks again!

[danster125]

Spray wd-40 on the exterior parts of the hoses, right?  WD-40 will not hurt the hoses?  When I do that, what I am listening/looking for?

[Dr.McNinja]

Spray wd-40 on the exterior parts of the hoses, right?  WD-40 will not hurt the hoses?  When I do that, what I am listening/looking for?

WD40 is safe on rubber. If you mind the residue it leaves on your engine when it drips off just wipe it up with a rag.

WD40 is flammable so ideally your idle will rise as the WD40 is sucked in through the leak. You may also notice that shortly before the WD40 is sucked in the idle will drop. I've read (haven't experienced) the idle drops when the WD40 temporarily seals the holes. Either should be a sign that something may be amiss. Make sure to do it more than once though.

I basically coated my carb intake boots in it to make sure it got everywhere. It's not going to hurt you. Just keep the WD40 away from flames and use an extender to spray it.

[DaMuffinMan]

Get the factory repair service manual, or the Haynes/Clymer. Read it from cover to cover, then read it again.

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0892878339/gstwincom


The majority of questions you may have or problems you may come across can be answered/resolved if you get to know your bike. And if this is you're first motorcycle ever I suggest you learn how things work in general.  I've found this forum to be useful with issues concerning aftermarket mods and upgrades. Just my .02

[rkjjeep]

This is USUALLY caused by someone having cranked up the idle screw to make a bike idle that would not idle normally because of a dirty carb pilot circuit - usually just dirty pilot jets.

If you do not want to pull the carbs try to run some chevron techron fuel system cleaner or berryman b12 in the gas for a tank or two. 
If it starts tto clean the pilots you will notice that you have to turn the idle down a bit.

I just cleaned the carbs on a 2006 that appeared whistle clean and I had to turn the idle down some after reassembly.  Also, if you have time, it's usually best to just replace the pilots.  If they are really dirty, it's hard to get them like new again. 

[Stallmaster]

i actually put in the chevron techron fuel in before to clean everything when i first got my bike in may....should i just keep adding it in every time i refuel?

[rkjjeep]

If a couple tanks with 1/2 bottle of cleaner haven't done the trick you'll probably have to clean em. 

[Dr.McNinja]

i actually put in the chevron techron fuel in before to clean everything when i first got my bike in may....should i just keep adding it in every time i refuel?

I used Berryman's B12 fuel additive.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=28B3LrTv4jk


It's pretty much chemo for your bike. I filled up my bike and put 4 oz in (1 per gallon approx.) and over the course of a week of riding the bike got progressively better. Now, it runs great. The carbs were gunked up just enough to cause problems but not enough to warrant a full cleaning.

[BeerGoggled]

The fluff replies in this forum astounds me. If you dont know what youre talking about dont type drivile and hit "post"!...its simple really.

To the original poster: what youre describing is "hanging idle". To cure it without guesses and "it might be this"...

1st, adjust the valves to spec. (or have your shop do it)
2nd,  have the carbs cleaned and rejetted (or have your shop do it) to pilot:  http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQitemZ170574271909
                                                                                                                main: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQitemZ150521210262
                                                                                                                                    set the a/f screws to 3 1/2 turns out from lightly seated (adjust from there)
3rd, re-syncronize the carbs.(or....you guessed it....have your shop do it)
....after this, you'll have a correctly running GS unless theres vacuum leaks which your shop should have found/corrected during the clean/rejet/re-sync


I dont mean to come across like a prick but, after searching countless threads /sites and never getting a deffinitive answer to a decade old problem, I get tired of reading these vague and unknowledgeable replies.   I figured this out on my own and my wifes bike now runs better than it did from the factory, Im sure.



....let the flaming begin.....

[rkjjeep]

You, sir, are completely ignorant about the nature of internet motorcycle forums.  Most forums consist of fellow motorcyclists TRYING to help each other.  What do you want to do - only let experts post?  People show up on these boards and try to help, and it's difficult to do without seeing and evaluating the bike in person.

If I had the original poster's bike in my garage here today I would do almost what you describe, though the suggestion for a 20 pilot and 3.5 turns out is not necessarily what HIS bike needs.  The correct way to tune the pilot circuit would be to start with the factory pilot and adjust for appropriate carbon monoxide level at idle ( a spec exists for CO level at idle for best combustion).  I'm been designing, developing, producing and improving almost anything with an internal combustion engine for over 40 years so anytime you want to match wits about this stuff for a friendly beer or two let me know!

There is nothing wrong with folks weighing in and trying to help.  There is risk that someone will suggest something that could damage the bike - THIS IS THE INTERNET.  Not everything on the internet is true.  You knew that, right?

For motorcycles with a much larger following and more years of fact gathering and knowledge recording you eventually get to a point where there is an agreed upon set of FACTS (not opinions) about how to fix and improve everything on a particular model of bike.  The BMW aiir cooled twin manufactured from the 1950's thru 1995 is the best example.  I will post the link to fountain of actual FACTS later today.  The GS500 "fact base" doesn't even register compared to something like this.  I am not criticizing the GS500 folks.........i think it's a neat bunch.  There is just no way they can match the progress of another passionate group that's been at it for about 55 years.
Here is the link.  It's the best example of what can happen over years of trading info back and forth, basing things on good sound engineering principles and finding out what works best.  It's an excellent read no matter what you are working on. Enjoy!:  http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/technical-articles-list.htm


Flames?  I don't flame, and I think you'll be surprised at the maturity you find on this board.  You might want to consider being a little more kind and polite if you personally need help in the future.

Ride safely. 

[Dr.McNinja]

You, sir, are completely ignorant about the nature of internet motorcycle forums.  Most forums consist of fellow motorcyclists TRYING to help each other.  What do you want to do - only let experts post?  People show up on these boards and try to help, and it's difficult to do without seeing and evaluating the bike in person.

If I had the original poster's bike in my garage here today I would do almost what you describe, though the suggestion for a 20 pilot and 3.5 turns out is not necessarily what HIS bike needs.  The correct way to tune the pilot circuit would be to start with the factory pilot and adjust for appropriate carbon monoxide level at idle ( a spec exists for CO level at idle for best combustion).  I'm been designing, developing, producing and improving almost anything with an internal combustion engine for over 40 years so anytime you want to match wits about this stuff for a friendly beer or two let me know!

There is nothing wrong with folks weighing in and trying to help.  There is risk that someone will suggest something that could damage the bike - THIS IS THE INTERNET.  Not everything on the internet is true.  You knew that, right?

For motorcycles with a much larger following and more years of fact gathering and knowledge recording you eventually get to a point where there is an agreed upon set of FACTS (not opinions) about how to fix and improve everything on a particular model of bike.  The BMW aiir cooled twin manufactured from the 1950's thru 1995 is the best example.  I will post the link to fountain of actual FACTS later today.  The GS500 "fact base" doesn't even register compared to something like this.  I am not criticizing the GS500 folks.........i think it's a neat bunch.  There is just no way they can match the progress of another passionate group that's been at it for about 55 years.
Here is the link.  It's the best example of what can happen over years of trading info back and forth, basing things on good sound engineering principles and finding out what works best.  It's an excellent read no matter what you are working on. Enjoy!:  http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/technical-articles-list.htm


Flames?  I don't flame, and I think you'll be surprised at the maturity you find on this board.  You might want to consider being a little more kind and polite if you personally need help in the future.

Ride safely.

There are plenty of experts with level heads willing to help and willing to correct posts that are obviously bad practice. But no one in this topic has made a bad suggestion yet. That's all we can make - suggestions. Guys like BeerGoggled get off to their ego getting pumped even though his reply was just as "fluffy" as ours. Humility and maturity are the signs of a master. He exhibits none of these. You'll find plenty of people like him here. You'll know one of the masters of the GS500 here when you see one. They carry themselves with an entirely different attitude.

[noiseguy]

You have hanging idle. Read the tech docs here on how to fix.

---
How's that for a brief and to the point response?
That said, I've done that, and mine still hangs when it gets completely hot after a 30 minute ride!