Got 99 problems...and my bike does too. Questions about new (used) GS

[Watevaman]

 Ok, third topic about this bike, but I think I've ridden it around enough to be able to ask my concerns here. I've got a few questions that hopefully you knowledgeable people will be able to answer.

For some background on the bike: it's a 1990 GS500E. Bought it about a month ago from a man who pretty much never rode it except to keep it running. He was at minimum the third owner of the bike, as his friend owned it before him. It's got around 7000 miles on the clock right now but given that it's only got 5 places, maybe it's 107k instead. The bike has a K&N lunchbox air filter and Vance and Hines full system, both of which were installed sometime in the past.

Now for my concerns and questions:

1) The bike had this clock on the bars when I first got it. It's ziptied onto the bar and has an electrical connection running somewhere down in between the forks, possibly into the light enclosure.



What I'm wondering is, does anyone have any experience with these? I really want to get rid of it, but since I don't know much about the electrical connections on anything, I don't want to mess around with it and end up screwing up something else.

2) The exhaust headers/pipes are rusted to hell and back but there are no holes. What I want to do is remove it and get it painted (probably do it myself after getting it sandblasted if that's possible).




Question here is about those bolts. Obviously if I get it painted, I don't want to put rusty bolts back into there, so does anyone know the specs on the bolts that connect the headers to the engine and the one in the back?

3) The bike has inline fuel filters (I think these are both fuel filters):



However, the one on the bottom in that picture has more of a clear liquid, where the one in the back looks like gas should. Are they both fuel filters? And if they are, why is the liquid clear in one and not the other?

4) Definitely one of my biggest concerns right now:





I'm assuming this is oil? I only just noticed it after I rode around the neighborhood earlier, but it could have been there before since the bike is incredibly dirty at the moment. I'm really hoping that it's not something that's gonna ruin this bike, so I would love any suggestions as to what could cause this.

5) This might be related to 4 and there are no pictures for this so I'll describe it. When I'm riding around, I'll cruise about 4k RPM. When I roll on the throttle from here, the bike kinda chugs  if I don't give it more throttle and get past the "point" where it's chugging. If I had to describe it, it feels like it's not getting gas like it should, but only at that point, because if I WOT the bike will fly.

And another part of this concern is something I've noticed the more I ride. Accelerating past 4k, I hear what I can only describe as a buzzing and today I actually felt a vibration in the pegs. I've tried to pinpoint the buzzing and I think it's coming from the right side of the engine. When I accelerate up to say 5-6-7k also, the tach moves up, but it doesn't move up steadily. It'll jump probably in a range of 400 or so as it's moving up, despite the engine being steady noisewise.




Thanks for all the help. Hope I enjoy my stay.

[The Buddha]

107k a gs with 107k will be literally in buckets ... yea it could still run, but will need to be carried from place to place in buckets ... OK that was an exaggeration ... but this is what I know ...

I ran an 89 for 48K miles. I maintained it like a maniac. In fact I learnt all the maintaining I knew from it ...

1. It used oil, a lot, 300 per quart. And no no smoke from it ever, it would somehow use it without ever smoking.
2. Way down on power. really easy to tell.
3. Poor gas mileage, like 35 and like I said well maintained, and worse yet it was not its carbs ... I had carbs off another GS in it.
4. Tons of head and drivetrain noises, well, a lot more than usual.
5. Wont rev as fast or as high either.

So you get it to a known low mile GS in your vicinity and compare ... preferably have both setup right ... jets, pipe etc. and try a side by side.

Cool.
Buddha.

[BrianKD]

1. No idea

2. Cheap fix: unbolt pipes. Sand with rough paper. Sand with fine paper. Smooth with steel wool. Polish with this stuff: http://www.amazon.com/Meeco-Mfg-Black-Stove-Polish/dp/B002HO0P84/ref=pd_sim_sbs_hg_4
Most hardware stores have it. Pipes will look new.

3. Same fuel in each. Yellow filter is old. Clear filter is new. It makes the fuel look different.

4. Needs new valve cover gasket.

5. No idea. Could me a number of things. Others know better than I.

[Watevaman]

 How expensive are valve cover gaskets typically? And how easy would it be to replace? I'm not a mechanic by any means, but if it's simple to replace I wouldn't mind doing it myself. If there's a lot of stuff that can go wrong, maybe not.

[BrianKD]

You can do it. Here's how:
http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-2015554469142545363

You only have to watch to the 14:00 min mark. After that, Kerry goes deeper into the engine.
When you go to take it out, go slow, don't rush. Put all the nuts and bolts in a cup so you don't loose them as you go. If you feel yourself getting frustrated, stop and take a break.

You'll pay a king's ransom for a new head gasket. But sometimes you can get used ones like this that are still good.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SUZUKI-GS-500-E-Valve-Cover-Assembly-w-Gaskets-PCV-USED-GREAT-CONDITION-/330637629882?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item4cfb89d9ba

Just use a bead of gasket sealer like Kerry did.

[burning1]

If you are replacing gaskets, I recommend going new. I'd suggest that you also pickup a crank-case breather gasket - you have to remove the gasket to get the valve cover off, and if you tear it, you're going to need a replacement.

Valve cover gaskets need some RTV around the cutouts used to bore the cam caps. I'm sure you can find some info on how to do it.

I'd generally advice against buying a mechanical special like this if you aren't mechanically inclined.

Regarding the clock on the handlebars... Much of the wiring harness is hidden inside the headlight. Cracking the headlight open isn't to difficult, but you never know what you're going to find once in there.

[adidasguy]

Rutland Stove Polish in the tube is what we use in West Seattle for our pipes.
Same stuff, different brand than Meeco.
Much easier than painting. You don't have to take off the exhaust to do it (at least we don't, but you can if you want)
3M scratchy pad to remove rust. Wipe clean then apply the stove polish. Buff to desired sheen.
Since it is a wax, it will go in the pores and help prevent future rust. It won't chip like paint.
Touch up as needed through the riding season.

[phendric]

How expensive are valve cover gaskets typically? And how easy would it be to replace? I'm not a mechanic by any means, but if it's simple to replace I wouldn't mind doing it myself. If there's a lot of stuff that can go wrong, maybe not.

After I bought my bike (2001 GS500) I had the same problem (leaking oil from the top of the engine).  A new valve cover gasket + 3 or 4 other gaskets that reside in the top end of the engine cost $52.  Labor (1 1/2 hours) was about $130.  After seeing the bill for the labor, I decided I'd do most of my own work from them on.

[mister]

Regarding number 5, what gear are you in when you try to accelerate from 4k rpm?

Michael

[Watevaman]

 It happens as I rev up past 4k in at least the first 3 gears. When I'm taking off from a stop, I'll usually shortshift into second, but when I don't I do hear it when I'm up past 4.

I haven't been too far past 4k in 4th and above, as right now I'm just riding around the neighborhood.

If I can somehow get my regular video camera to capture the sound alright, I'll upload it, but I'm fairly sure it won't be audible over the wind noise.

[the mole]

What the others said regarding the gasket etc, the clock is just a random accessory someone added, it will be wired into the bikes wiring inside the headlight to provide power to the clock. Pull main fuse or disconnect battery, then best solution is to remove the headlight (two screws then pull and lift), trace the clock wires in there and disconnect them from wherever they are attached, then pull clock wires out and see time fly as you toss it in the bin.
Quick solution:  cut clock wires outside the headlight, insulate the two wires with good quality tape, push them into the headlight, see time fly etc.
Reconnect fuse/battery.

[ohgood]

congrats on finding a really really low milage gs. the FLWA FLWA - slides opening too fast ? boodha ? too lean ? gah ! i can remember the sound from mine but can't remember what it waaaaassssss !

the pipes will rust again. if it really bothers you get some stainless/Ti pipes off a crashed sport bike (what, they're EVERYWHERE!) and have them welded up to fit a nice Vance & Hines or Jardine (loud) final.

that little bit of oil seepage is so you always have a handy thumb+blackstuff marker for idiots that park too close to your badass machine.

enjoy the ride 

[Watevaman]

 Alright, had a busy week so I couldn't really get out and try to diagnose that shake anymore. Went for a ride a few minutes ago and found a few things to comment on now that I'm specifically looking for them.

One thing I came across while looking is that my clutch, when pulled in (like going to a stop) would keep the engine running up around 3,000 RPM. I'm starting to think there might be something wrong with my clutch or clutch cable, as I don't really have the shake/buzz so much in neutral or when the clutch is pulled in. I'm getting to the point where I don't want to ride that much in risking the bike breaking and causing me a lot of trouble.

Here is a video of the bike running in neutral and me revving (after it'd been warmed up of course)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_naJP00Tlmo


And thanks a lot for the answers so far. About the exhaust, though: it's not so much getting the exhaust painted/treated as much as it is those bolts. I want to replace them and would like to know if I can just take them to a hardware store for replacements or if I need a custom job for the threads, etc.

And for the clock, you say I can just cut the wires at the back of the headlight and seal it with tape or a cap?

[adidasguy]

Always go OEM parts when you can. Exhaust bolts are important - use the right thing.
There are plenty of parts whores on the board. Post a Want To Buy (WTB) listing for what you want.
You can get most any part at a good price from people on this board.

One word of advice: if you say you'll buy the part - follow through. There are parts whores with tons of parts that don't respond anymore because of too many flakes - people that said they would paypal the money then to fade away, only to be seen buying other stuff on ebay and saying they didn't have $7 for the parts. People are glad to spend the time to get out the parts and mail them to you to get your bike running. Too many flakes have hurt it for a lot of people in need of parts.

You can PM parts whores directly if you' re serious about some parts.

Clock: Cut the wires. It may be connected directly to the +12, so cut one wire at a time so the nippers don't short the +12 to ground while you're cutting it and blow your fuse. JUST A PRECAUTION and a good practice to follow unless all power has been removed.

[Watevaman]

 So for the clock wires, there are 3 wires. A black and red one go into the headlight, a yellow one is fed back through the frame to some location I don't know (haven't taken off the tank yet), but I want to be sure that yellow one is safe to cut as well.

By removing all power, would disconnecting the battery be enough? As I've said before, I'm a noob so I guess I need my hand held through these baby steps, haha.

[adidasguy]

Do remove all power, simply take off the positive connection to the battery.
Clock is fluff so cut all 3 wires. Cutting them will only cut off the clock, nothing else.
Black: Ground
Red: Probably turns on clock's backlight/display when headlight on
Yellow: Probably to +12 from the battery so the clock always has power to keep time.

[Watevaman]

 So I did some more investigative riding to single out the rattling/buzzing I've talked about. Turns out a big part of it was the right mirror, which seems to have space to vibrate. Simple fix, only need one mirror in my state, so took it off until I can find a replacement or fix it.

With the mirror off, I took it for a spin around the block, and discovered that the buzz was actually stacking on top of another "buzz" that is coming from the left side of the engine, presumably in the front sprocket area. It really only happens under load, around the 4k and above range as I stated before. I looked into it on other forums and some people said it can be detonation (which I doubt, as the bike runs fine and this doesn't occur if it's in neutral or even in gear at a stop) but a lot of guys said the chain being too tight can cause a noise in the front sprocket. Once again, I checked the play and while on the centerstand, the chain seems to be within spec around the middle (under the footguard/towards the front of the wheel). With someone sitting on it, it tightened up to probably 0.8" if not less. Another theory is the cush drive might be worn out, as the bike is 21 years old and I doubt they were ever changed.

Should I take the front sprocket cover off and take a look? I roll the wheel while on the center stand but don't hear anything, and even running it through the gears and rev range while the bike is on center I don't hear it. Only when I'm taking off, giving it some throttle.

Sorry, can't get a video as any camera mic would get overwhelmed by wind noise before you could hear it.

[BrianKD]

What's a cush drive?

NEVERMIND. figured it out! duh