LED Turn Signals?

[Steel]

Hey guys. I got a headlight, whohoo! and I'm getting my turn signals squared away now. As soon as I put everything together it worked for a hot minute, then a bulb blew up front. The previous owner said he thought his son put LED turn signals in the back, and he could never get them to work right. He says he thinks turn signal LEDS and my 2009 GS500 are incompatible, something about the structure of the wiring harness. I wasn't able to search out much info on this either way, I'd appreciate any help or links to more information.

Thanks!

-w

[Big Rich]

As long as you have a turn signal relay made to handle the ultra low wattage of led bulbs, they should be good. Well, that, and a diode at the indicator bulb so the signals don't cross.

If the bulb burnt out because of a short in the wiring, than that has nothing to do with the LED signals.

[the mole]

Oh, a question about LED blinkers, never thought I'd live to see that..................

[Steel]

Rich, are there any posted guides on this subject? Where can I find more information?

Mole, you appear to be genuinely touched by the discovery of a new thread on your favorite topic! I am filled with joy to think I was able to brighten the day of my fellow man. I'm so happy to meet people like you who are unafraid to reach out and make a connection, even when they have nothing to contribute. Have a great day, citizen!

[Big Rich]

I think Adidas has a nice little write up somewhere on the diode (probably even the led flasher relay as well). I don't have them bookmarked or anything though. Sorry!

[Steel]

Cool, I'll ask him if he'll take a look.

If this is a tired issue, shouldn't it be stickied or added to the wiki or something?

My current issue is regarding tail signals installed by the previous owner. http://amzn.to/sNUA4N

They appear to be directly wired to the following flasher unit:

GUILERA brand Electronic Flasher
12V 21+21+3,4W
01234OS
38610-01D10

Front signals are conventional, and blowing through bulbs. What does yall make of this?

[Big Rich]

I've never had the pleasure of blowing bulbs, so I really can't provide a solution. Sorry.

All the flasher relays I've used are from www.superbrightleds.com. So yours is unfamiliar to me. Do they blink at all, or all stay in constant, etc?

[adidasguy]

If it is the correct bulb, they won't be blowing out. Did they have 6v bulbs? A 12v bulb won't blow with the 12-14v the bike produces. I can't think of anything that blows the bulbs except if they are the wrong voltage of bulb.

Swapping the tail for LEDs wouldn't blow bulbs, either. Worst case is it would change the flash rate due to different load. With the flasher replaced, that would no longer be an issue.

Wires are color coded (at least the original wires). You should examine the wiring diagram for your bike and trace where things are going. You can search past posts for wiring diagrams, look in a Clymer or Haynes book, a Suzuki service manual or do a Google search.

The Superbright flasher relay is good.

FYI: The flasher goes to +12 and then to the turn signal switch. The turn signals go to ground and the turn signal switch. They should not be connected to the flasher as far I have been able to determine, unless that turn signal relay has +12, flash, and ground. And one side of the turn signals is connected to the ground of the relay which would be OK.

[the mole]

Mole, you appear to be genuinely touched by the discovery of a new thread on your favorite topic! I am filled with joy to think I was able to brighten the day of my fellow man. I'm so happy to meet people like you who are unafraid to reach out and make a connection, even when they have nothing to contribute. Have a great day, citizen!

I'm sorry if you found my post less than helpful, but if you'd done a search you'd have found a lot of contributions from me trying to help people fix their LED flasher issues. The simple answer for reliable, easily visible flashers is to PUT THE STANDARD ONES BACK ON.
I've now given up on people who modify things that work perfectly well, don't understand what they're doing and then want help to fix    .
Yes, I know it was the PO that f*cked with yours Steel, so this doesn't apply to you, you're just caught in the crossfire of my meltdown. I should have said "duck".

[mister]

Mole, you appear to be genuinely touched by the discovery of a new thread on your favorite topic! I am filled with joy to think I was able to brighten the day of my fellow man. I'm so happy to meet people like you who are unafraid to reach out and make a connection, even when they have nothing to contribute. Have a great day, citizen!

I'm sorry if you found my post less than helpful, but if you'd done a search you'd have found a lot of contributions from me trying to help people fix their LED flasher issues. The simple answer for reliable, easily visible flashers is to PUT THE STANDARD ONES BACK ON.
I've now given up on people who modify things that work perfectly well, don't understand what they're doing and then want help to fix    .
Yes, I know it was the PO that f*cked with yours Steel, so this doesn't apply to you, you're just caught in the crossfire of my meltdown. I should have said "duck".

We must be due for another oil thread or chain lube thread about now...

Michael

[adidasguy]

Maybe a "I just bought a bike, sitting for 5 years. The tires LOOK like they have tread but are cracking and about 12 years old. Should I replace the tires or will these last me another 3 years?" thread. 

It is always hard to un-do what a bad PO did. My best suggestion is GET THE WIRING DIAGRAM and start putting things back. Like said, nothing beats putting the originals back on. Then when things are working as originally intended, you can modify. Easier to make things work as original than to try to figure out how to get a PO's hack job of wiring to function correctly.

BY THE WAY: if blowing out lights, have you checked the voltage at the battery? With the bike running, around 14 volts. If high, you have a bad voltage regulator. High voltage will fry lights. (Sorry, my voltage regulator video is not edited yet.)

[Steel]

I need to buy a multimeter.  :/

Mine's a 2009 and chronic age problems are among the last things I check for. Also, you're right, I should remind myself that a little common sense and the scientific method will get me through any problem I could encounter in mechanics. If that statement was absolute though there would be no need for places like this...

[adidasguy]

You come here to get pointed in the right direction. Keeps you from tearing into things that don't need tearing in to.

I think everyone should have a decent meter and a wiring diagram. Those two things will let you diagnose just about any electrical problem on a GS. And don't forget a few dollars for a good manual, like a Haynes or Clymer.

Tracing wires: pretty much the same thing as tracing a fuel line or vacuum line. gas at point A and no gas at point B = pinched or blocked fuel line. Electricity at point A (brake switch) and not at point B (stop light) = broken wire. Follow wire to locate the break OR bad connector. At least wires are color coded, hoses are plain black.

[sledge]

This forum desperately needs a sense of humor....either that or it needs to recognise that certain members have one 

[adidasguy]

  Terry Thomas and all comedians of the early days of TV.

[ohgood]

blowing bulbs is odd. maybe it has some unique wiring hack that puts too much amperage to the front lights ?

the only non-led signals i've seen as bright as thte stockers are the buell stockers. very nice addition to the gs i might add.


if you do LED, you you will need:

electronic flasher to replace mechanical
resistors
diodes


do a write up if/when you get yours setup, along with where you got the LED signals and some before / after shots. there are a ton of very poorly performing LED lights, I'd hope you do lots of research before ordering any cheap units.

[adidasguy]

You can not put too much amperage through a light bulb. It will only use what it needs.
You CAN put too much VOLTAGE and that will blow the lights.

Look at it this way: Your house may have a 100 amp circuit. A 100 watt bulb will only use 100 watts. Whether on a 2 amp or 500 amp circuit, only 100 watts. However, if you have 220v and 110v in your house, connecting a 110v bulb to 220v will blow it.

In the motorcycle, if  your voltage regulator is putting out too much voltage, those 12v bulbs can blow at 18v or more.

Likewise, if you are buying 6v bulbs, they will always blow.

Be sure your bulbs are the correct voltage and check the bike's voltage with a meter. Also check the voltage at the turn signals. Maybe the PO wired them to the wrong place.

[knowles]

I have seen replacement led bulbs that are supposed to fit in the stock tail light and turn signals. Has anyone tried these, also i have seen a replacement signal module. Do you still have to use a diode with these?

[adidasguy]

The indicator on the instrument panel connects to the left and right turn signals. It lights up when either turn signal is on. It does this because a lamp allows current to pass in both directions.

When you go LED, they allow current to pass in one direction, which for the most part is OK. However, they pass very little current and as a result, the incandescent indicator may not go on. LED turn signal bulbs use less current and the incandescent indicator requires more current to light up than goes through the LEDs. You can replace the indicator with an LED, but that presents problems.

It needs to be a bi-polar LED because current passes both directions through the indicator due to the goofy way it is wired in. On an "E, that is no problem. There are bi-polar LEDs that fit the T-10 socket. On an "F", the bulb is a T-5. Smaller!. You can shave a T-10 bi-polar (aka non-polarized) LED to fit if you are skilled at it. OR you use a standard T-5 LED and 2 diodes to make it light up correctly. (See other threads with the diode diagram and more information).

Now, LED replacement bulbs work just fine. You can replace the turn signals withg LED replacements. keep in mind the requirements for the instrument panel turn signal indicator light.

Superbright as one especially for motorcycle stop/tail lights and is the only one with white LEDs to light up the license plate (a DOT requirement in the USA). I bought them and put them in a friends bike. Excellent product! If you use others, you must add a "tail tidy light" as referred to in Europe or something to light up the license plate. Also, some others are not as bright. By the way, replacing the stop light is just a replacement (you need to buy 2 of them). Nothing else needs to be done, as you need to do when playing with the turn signals.

I hope this helps.

If you give more specific questions, I can give you the answers. I'm pretty much an expert on electricity. Others are experts on the mechanical parts of the bikes.

[knowles]

Ok I think I understand you, if i replace the tail/stop light with the led bulbs, i will have no prolems but if I do the turn signals to led bulbs I have to change the turn signal indicator light  on the gauge cluster to a led light also to make them work correcty.