New Guy

[Karl with a K]

Going in to work and working late tonight so I won't be able to get back to the carbs until tomorrow.

Lots of useful info here guys I really appreciate it.

I'll keep you posted how things go.

[Karl with a K]

I successfully removed all the JIS screws from the bottom of the carbs.  I used a small impact driver and they came out without any problems.  A friend told me the reason those screws bind up so bad isn't due to over torquing, but it's due to the different types of metal coming in contact with each other.  The screws are different than the carb housing and over time they have a chemical/electrical reaction that causes them to bond.  That's why there is a grayish white fungus on the screws when they come out.

I wonder if this isn't intentional to try and keep people from messing with them.  Oh well.

Jets are soaking.

[tt_four]

That's just life when you're dealing with aluminum parts. Steel and aluminum will corrode together. Doesn't hurt to invest in a container of anti-seize. Use it like you would use normal grease when you're dealing with different metals, which in most cases will be steel hardware in aluminum parts....



It's true it makes things harder to get out, but that's not the main reason they're so hard. If that was the case, we'd be using impact drivers on every part of the bike. This was just Suzuki's decision to use goofy screws instead of bolts. Any time I own a bike with screws in it I always replace them with hex socket bolts, button head if you need the low profile.

[Kijona]

I totally forgot about the impact driver method - I didn't have one at the time so, naturally I made due with what I had.

So how did the jets look? More importantly, how clean was the bottom of the float bowl when you removed it? Any sediment?

[mimikeni]

Karl,
Welcome.  I live in Springfield, Illinois.  I'm 55 with four kids (two done with college, one in limbo and one starting next fall.  I've only been riding for a year and a half on my first bike, a 1996 GS500E.  I have been on some great twisty roads in my cage near 6-Flags.  Are you familiar with those roads or others around St. Louis suitable for the motorcycle?  I'm planning a few longer rides this summer.  Maybe St. Louis would be a good test. I may heed the advice of forum contributors to get a gel seat.  The stock seat is hard on the backside after about 100 miles.  Enjoy the forum.  I have found the people and the advice excellent.   http://gstwins.com/gsboard/Smileys/New_Smile/cheesy.gif

[Karl with a K]

Mimikeni, I'm very familiar with the roads around 6 flags.  There are some even better ones a little further South and west in the Mark Twain National Forest.  Let me know if you make it out this way again and I'll give some recommendations.

Kijona, The inside of the bowls looked very clean, no sediment.  The jets also looked clean with the exception of some varnish build up on the smallest one.  The jet holes didn't look round as if there may have been some build up in it.

I soaked the jets for a day and a half and then blew some compressed air through them.  They all look good now. 

I was going to put a washer on the valve piston to raise it a little, thereby allowing more fuel into the mix.  However, I couldn't get the diaphram off of the needle and I was afraid of tearing the diaphram so I left it alone.  The 04 carb is different from the older models.  I saw pics of the older model and the pin drops out of the diaphram when you invert it.  Mine wouldn't do that.  Even tugging on it it wouldn't come out.

So I put the carbs back together and started reinstalling everything on the bike.  Everything went smooth until I picked my gas tank up.  One of the fuel lines is torn

I just ordered two new fuel lines.  I figured I may as well replace both.  Once they arrive I'll reinstall the tank and cross my fingers and start her up again.

Something else I discovered is there is a hole in the exhaust can between the exhaust and the swingarm.  It looks like a bolt punched through the can when a previous owner dropped the bike on the right side. 

I'm wondering if the hole in the exhaust is causing issues with backpressure?

Anyway, now that the carbs are cleaned if it still isn't running right I'll repair the hole to the exhaust.  If that doesn't work I'll check the valve clearences.

[Kijona]

Mimikeni, I'm very familiar with the roads around 6 flags.  There are some even better ones a little further South and west in the Mark Twain National Forest.  Let me know if you make it out this way again and I'll give some recommendations.

Kijona, The inside of the bowls looked very clean, no sediment.  The jets also looked clean with the exception of some varnish build up on the smallest one.  The jet holes didn't look round as if there may have been some build up in it.

I soaked the jets for a day and a half and then blew some compressed air through them.  They all look good now. 

I was going to put a washer on the valve piston to raise it a little, thereby allowing more fuel into the mix.  However, I couldn't get the diaphram off of the needle and I was afraid of tearing the diaphram so I left it alone.  The 04 carb is different from the older models.  I saw pics of the older model and the pin drops out of the diaphram when you invert it.  Mine wouldn't do that.  Even tugging on it it wouldn't come out.

So I put the carbs back together and started reinstalling everything on the bike.  Everything went smooth until I picked my gas tank up.  One of the fuel lines is torn

I just ordered two new fuel lines.  I figured I may as well replace both.  Once they arrive I'll reinstall the tank and cross my fingers and start her up again.

Something else I discovered is there is a hole in the exhaust can between the exhaust and the swingarm.  It looks like a bolt punched through the can when a previous owner dropped the bike on the right side. 

I'm wondering if the hole in the exhaust is causing issues with backpressure?

Anyway, now that the carbs are cleaned if it still isn't running right I'll repair the hole to the exhaust.  If that doesn't work I'll check the valve clearences.

Well, even a large hole (size of your thumb at least) wouldn't necessarily affect anything. It would make it sound like crap sure, but no big deal. The hole you're talking about sounds like the weep hole - is it at least uniform in shape and size? A pic may be necessary.

Varnished jets will definitely make the bike run like crap. I think you'll find it's a whole new bike with those sparkly clean jets! 

Last thing you'll need to do is double check the float height using this method: http://gstwin.com/float_height_check.htm

You may also want to sync the carbs. I'd tell you how but my knowledge of such only applies to the older model carbs - someone here will undoubtedly come along with a link on how to do it for a newer set.

I can, however, provide you with a link on how to make the proper tool to do it! http://www.650ccnd.com/mano.htm

Edit: I strongly suggest that you rig up an auxiliary fuel supply (hang it no higher than the handlebars otherwise it will flood) and test your work before you put the bike back together. I learned the hard way on this and ended up removing the tank 3 times which, each time, becomes increasingly frustrating. You can make use of your old fuel line too.

[adidasguy]

Many exhausts have a tiny hole at the low point of the can. Lets water drain out when you leave your bike in the rain. Also lets other crap drain out instead of filling up the can with el-crapo.

[Karl with a K]

double check the float height??? Nuts!

I knew I forgot something.

[Karl with a K]

Update.

I set the gas tank on a table next to the bike and hooked the old fuel lines up.  I started the bike and it warmed up in about 5 minutes to where I could completely close the choke.  It sounded good idling and it revved fine all the way to redline.  The idle was solid around 1200 RPM. 

I ordered new fuel lines.  The real test will be when I can ride it, but I'm optimistic so far.



As for posting pics I'm not having as much luck.  I've followed everyone's instructions, but Flickr won't give me the url by right clicking on the photo.  I have to go to the share option and it gives me the url and tells me to just copy it and paste which is what i do.  I tried clicking the picture button and pasting the url between the imag brackets and I've tried pasting the url first and then highlighting it and then clicking on the picture button.  Nothing is working for me.  I'm sure it's me.  It makes me feel really old.  Iike when I was a kid and my dad made me work the VCR because he couldn't figure it out.

Oh, well.

[Paulcet]

As for posting pics I'm not having as much luck.  I've followed everyone's instructions, but Flickr won't give me the url by right clicking on the photo.  I have to go to the share option and it gives me the url and tells me to just copy it and paste which is what i do.  I tried clicking the picture button and pasting the url between the imag brackets and I've tried pasting the url first and then highlighting it and then clicking on the picture button.  Nothing is working for me.  I'm sure it's me.  It makes me feel really old.  Iike when I was a kid and my dad made me work the VCR because he couldn't figure it out.

Oh, well.

Flickr doesn't like to host images for use in other websites.  Quote from their FAQ:

The direct link to a photo file is no longer shown on the page. Per the Flickr Community Guidelines "pages on other websites that display content hosted on flickr.com must provide a link from each photo or video back to its page on Flickr." Linking directly to the photo file doesn't do this.

So if you want to continue using Flickr, and embed your images here (you would be violating their community guidelines unless you also provide a link to Flickr), you will have to get the URL of the image from the image properties (right click|view image info).

[mister]

As for posting pics I'm not having as much luck.  I've followed everyone's instructions, but Flickr won't give me the url by right clicking on the photo.

Did you do what I suggested...

"Above the pic is a button called "Actions". Click it and choose "View All Sizes". For the sake of example we'll go with the 500 size. Click it and the new size will display for you.

Now right click on the image and choose Copy IMage URL or whatever equivalent it says in your browser."

Flickr has NOT disabled this option/method. So if you cannot do it it Must be something on your browser. Which browser are you using?

Failing that - and really Karl, people are not going to keep in clicking links to see photos - use either IMGUR or Tinypic. With imgur you can load multiple pics at the same time and then above the first pic that shows you'll see "second pic, third pic, etc" and you can click each of those to get the "direct link" from the right hand column. Give it a go - no need to register or sign in 

Michael

[Karl with a K]

Success!!

"you will have to get the URL of the image from the image properties (right click|view image info)"

that worked, thanks

[Kijona]

Any news there, Karl? I hope all is well!

Those varnished jets are almost certainly the cause of your problem. I bet it'll feel like a new bike now! 

[Phil B]

Hey! Karl, you stole my bike!


I have the same year, same color, with no main side fairings

[Karl with a K]

Fuel lines came in yesterday.  I reinstalled the tank.  The bike started up no problems, idles well, revs well.  I drove it around the neighborhood and every time I come to a stop the engine dies

Just rolling in 2nd when I pull the clutch in and down shift to first the engine dies.  As soon as I let the clutch out it roll starts.

So apparently the carbs weren't the issue.

I am curious about the hole in the side of the exhaust.  In the pic you can see the shadows where the can is dented in.  At the center of that is a penny size hole.  I was unable to get a better pic without taking off the exhaust.

Notice how the hole lines up perfectly with the bolt sticking out at the top of the rear brake caliper.  I'm wondering if it was dropped on the right side and that bolt punched a hole. 

Does anyone else have this on their exhaust?  If not, I wonder if it is causing a lack of back pressure thereby causing the engine to die when decelerating.

[Kijona]

So you're saying that it ran fine until you tried to ride it? Will rolling the throttle keep the motor alive or not?

If it'll idle all day just sitting but as soon as you put it into gear it dies, that's a-whole-nother issue. LUCKILY it's an easy one to figure out. There are two sensors you need to have a look at - clutch sensor (is beneath the clutch lever - look for two wires), and the kick-stand sensor. Both of these are interference switches - in other words, they close the circuit when correctly positioned and open it otherwise. So naturally, what you'll want to do is jump (cross) the wires and see if that fixes the problem.

You can tell that at some point the muffler took a hit - the bracket is bent and there appear to be two dents which correspond to objects on the bike that the muffler would smash against were it to take a hit. And, to end your worries about the exhaust, let's put it this way...the bike would still run and ride with no muffler on it at all and just a straight pipe. True that this would likely result in you having to increase your idle speed slightly, but it would still run. The length of pipe, and the pressure generated by the two-into-one header, would be sufficient. A tell-tale sign of a motor not having enough backpressure (which makes the bike run lean unless some serious re-jetting is done) is backfiring - and a lot of it, especially on deceleration. Even still, it wouldn't kill the motor like you're talking about. A hole the size of a penny isn't going to do diddly-squat.

One last thing - the hanging idle you were talking about was indeed caused by that varnished idle jet. That problem wasn't going to cure itself and it's good you took care of it. You've also gained a great deal of knowledge about the carbs and how to clean them.

[Karl with a K]

Yes rolling the throttle keeps the engine alive.

Putting it in gear doesn't kill the engine.  The engine dies when I slow down and come to a stop for a stop sign.  Or sometimes just slowing down, for example slowing down to about 20 miles per hour or so and shifting down to 1st.  The engine dies.

If I give it a little throttle while the clutch is in and I'm downshifting the engine stays running.

[adidasguy]

Idle screw adjustment? Screw it in a little?

[Kijona]

Yes rolling the throttle keeps the engine alive.

Putting it in gear doesn't kill the engine.  The engine dies when I slow down and come to a stop for a stop sign.  Or sometimes just slowing down, for example slowing down to about 20 miles per hour or so and shifting down to 1st.  The engine dies.

If I give it a little throttle while the clutch is in and I'm downshifting the engine stays running.

It almost sounds like the bike is not completely warmed up or the idle speed is not set high enough. From your previous post you said it was running great and everything was hunky-dorey. I cannot imagine why it would just give out while you're trying to ride it. Perhaps you pinched a fuel line while re-installing the tank? Maybe the bike is low on gas? Try running on "RES" or "PRI" (just don't leave it parked with the engine off on "PRI").

Try this procedure: start the bike with it fully choked. It'll take a few seconds but the RPM will slowly start rising. Wait for it to hit or slightly exceed 4k RPM. Once it does, gradually reduce the choke until it hits 2-2.5k RPM. Leave it like that until you hear the RPM begin to rise again. Continue to adjust the choke to keep it in that 2-2.5k range. Eventually, after about 5 minutes or so, the bike will keep a good idle with no choke.

Another thing you can try if you are allowing enough time for warmup, is to adjust the choke until the bike idles at 2k RPM and try riding it that way. Ride it for a while (more than around the block) and then try taking the choke off. If it runs fine like that, but STILL dies after taking the choke off, chances are your idle speed is set too low. I know the manual calls for 1200RPM but I've found that on both my 97 and my 07, 1200 is a bit too low. Both mine will occasionally stall out if I set the idle that low. I've found 1350-1400 to be a much better range.