Front left wheel bearing doesn't seat properly

[jacob_ns]

The front left bearing (opposite brake disc) slides into the housing without any issues whatsoever and can be done by hand. I've removed the other side bearing and that will slip into place as well all the way down so the outer race is seated properly.

Both bearings need to be drifted into the r/h side as per usual. Any ideas?

[Funderb]

wha?


Can i haz pictures or somthin? Your description is confoosing.

[jacob_ns]

The front left wheel bearing can be slipped into it's space in the wheel by hand.

Index finger only.






The spacer.


The bearing, undamaged.


Installed and seated (by hand).

[tt_four]

I'm still confused. You say they're seated, but the title says they're not? Bearings usually need tapped in, they're not supposed to just slide in by hand. Try finding  large socket the same diameter as the outside ring of the bearing and tap it in with a hammer.

[Funderb]

what he said ^^

[gsJack]

jacob_ns I assume your replacing the front wheel bearings and found one of the bearing diameter bores in the hub to be too big?  Never have had that experience on a bike, actually have had very few wheel brg problems on bikes putting as much as 80-100k miles on a few of them, but years ago that problem was more common on autos and we fixed a few of them.  Would punch the hub bore with a sharp punch and hammer all around the bore over the brgs full width.  Where the punch point went into the metal it raised up the metal around it providing a good drive in fit.  Did one on a car of mine and it lasted quite a few years without coming loose.  A siezed bearing can spin the outer race in the hub and wear the bore.  If you over do the punching you can get a really heavy fit, more than you want.  I assume those are new bearings you will be driving in?

[jacob_ns]

I'm still confused. You say they're seated, but the title says they're not? Bearings usually need tapped in, they're not supposed to just slide in by hand. Try finding  large socket the same diameter as the outside ring of the bearing and tap it in with a hammer.

The bearing seats by hand, no tapping required. I said they don't seat properly which is to say I can get them in without force applied.

jacob_ns I assume your replacing the front wheel bearings and found one of the bearing diameter bores in the hub to be too big?

I'm not replacing the bearings, but have been rebuilding the bike over the winter and this was a small issue that arose.

Would punch the hub bore with a sharp punch and hammer all around the bore over the brgs full width.

You mean using the punch to score/damage the bore (on the rim/hub) to create interference when inserting the bearing?

I assume those are new bearings you will be driving in?

The bearings are not new but are not excessively old, worn or damaged in any way.

[The Buddha]

Dude you install a bearing wiht a install tool, not a drift and not by hand.
I made tools to do the GS bearing seating, and its easy, anyone can make it.
The outer race - you extract it bypunching out the cage and getting the balls out and the inner race should fall out.
Then weld that to a steel plate.
Done, you then use this to knock in bearings. When you're done you can remove the tool by hitting the plate from the inside of the wheel using somehtign the size of the axle bolt.

Cool.
Buddha.

[jacob_ns]

Dude you install a bearing wiht a install tool, not a drift and not by hand.

Well, I do know that. My issue isn't with my installation, it's with the fact that the bearing slips into the bore without resistance.

Regardless, I used the above advice and used a sharp punch to create interference in the bore and the bearing was seated properly.

[twinrat]

Had loose bearings in housings like that before ,it is only about .001" plus that makes it feel like it will fall in this is what bearing lock is designed for . clean surfaces with methelated spirts let dry and apply bearing lock ,and do NOT touch surfaces with your fingers otherwise you will undo all your good work.DO NOT HAMMER  THE SURFACES WITH A PUNCH OR COLD CHISEL THAT WENT OUT WITH THE ARK.Us engineers use loctite and never have a problem.Want to take them out??pour boiling water on them or use a heatgun.

[gsJack]

....................DO NOT HAMMER  THE SURFACES WITH A PUNCH OR COLD CHISEL THAT WENT OUT WITH THE ARK.Us engineers use loctite and never have a problem.Want to take them out??pour boiling water on them or use a heatgun.

Mmmm, funny you should mention the Arc, that's the boat we came over on.      I prefer the Smith Barney way.   

[jacob_ns]

DO NOT HAMMER  THE SURFACES WITH A PUNCH OR COLD CHISEL THAT WENT OUT WITH THE ARK.

It's a GS500, not a Ducati. I'm not worried about a bit of damage to the bore.

[twinrat]

Good on you GS jack im only 20 yrs behind you ,I learnt your way first  loctite 2 nd  CHEERS

[twinrat]

To jacob ns 
It's a GS500, not a Ducati. I'm not worried about a bit of damage to the bore.

Why do we post on here and give you a free mechanical education  and get sarcasam in return??

[jacob_ns]

To jacob ns 
It's a GS500, not a Ducati. I'm not worried about a bit of damage to the bore.

Why do we post on here and give you a free mechanical education  and get sarcasam in return??

It wasn't sarcasm. The GS isn't a high performance motorcycle so it's not like we'd be creating major mechanical mayhem by doing the above method. It's easier than Loctite especially upon bearing removal and didn't require me to waste Loctite when it's not required.

Don't be so sensitive.

[twinrat]

i  just cant believe you can not afford loctite.The bearing lock i refer to comes in many different products  you need only get the one for bearings this has a very low heat requirment to remove .if you go with the punch method it will be twice as bad when you remove it next time ,also your bearing will be supported only on little mountains of alloy ,compared to bearing lock which surrounds the bearing and supports it evenly.

[slipperymongoose]

i  just cant believe you can not afford loctite.The bearing lock i refer to comes in many different products  you need only get the one for bearings this has a very low heat requirment to remove .if you go with the punch method it will be twice as bad when you remove it next time ,also your bearing will be supported only on little mountains of alloy ,compared to bearing lock which surrounds the bearing and supports it evenly.

Listen to twinrat! Using a punch is what you do in an absolute dire emergency when your out in the middle of no where and being chased by a transsexual serial killer. When your home in your garage spend those couple of dollars and buy the stuff that works and was designed for that exact situation. You can even use mid - high strength thread locker as well same thing will happen as a retaining compound.