Now talking about headlight install! (AND OTHER MISC QUESTIONS)

[pizzle]

The part with the threads are broken on my bike (see picture), and I can't seem to find anywhere that possible sells the part, and the screw on it is impossibly tight. Any help is appreciated.

[bombsquad83]

http://www.ronayers.com/Fiche/TypeID/26/Type/CYLINDER_HEAD/MakeID/2/Make/Suzuki/YearID/36/Year/1995/ModelID/6450/Model/GS500E/GroupID/268852/Group/CYLINDER_HEAD

I would order parts 17 through 20.  To get the old screw out, try vice grips.  If that doesn't work you might want to get an impact driver.

[pizzle]

So 17 is the actual part and they just didn't show the whole thing in the picture? And just to be sure, 20 is the actual screw that holds the thing in?

Thanks for the quick reply!

[bombsquad83]

Yeah, I think so.  The angle on the fiche makes it hard to tell, but that is the only thing that makes sense to me.  Let us know how it goes!

[pizzle]

A local shop had the parts I needed in stock, but I don't have time to mess with it until the weekend. Having said that....

**STUPID QUESTION ALERT**
How can I tell if I have a stock exhaust/muffler? It's a 2001 and it seems pretty loud to me and doesn't run that well, which leads me to believe the PO stuck some crap on it, and maybe slapping a stock one on will make it better without too much effort?

[bombsquad83]

A local shop had the parts I needed in stock, but I don't have time to mess with it until the weekend. Having said that....

**STUPID QUESTION ALERT**
How can I tell if I have a stock exhaust/muffler? It's a 2001 and it seems pretty loud to me and doesn't run that well, which leads me to believe the PO stuck some crap on it, and maybe slapping a stock one on will make it better without too much effort?

Wow, surprised they had those parts in stock.  Lucky you.  Post a picture of your bike and we'll look at the exhaust.  Even if it is stock, the PO could have drilled it out or something...

[vinny]

That impossibly tight screw should also be an 8mm bolt head. Spray some penetrating oil on it and wrench it.. Once you have the replacement parts of course!

[BaltimoreGS]

Hand impact driver on the tight screw.  Show us a picture of the exhaust and we should be able to tell you.

-Jessie

[Funderb]

also, breakfree CLP, KROIL, or pb blaster for the screw.

WD40 is pretty substandard as a penetrating release agent. 

[pizzle]

These views okay? Thanks a ton for all your help! Where's that contribute button...?

[knowles]

looks stock

[pizzle]

Sort of random question: does backfire sound like a gunshot? If my bike just made a gunshot noise should I be worried? It did that after I cranked the starter a while to get it started. When it did fire up everything did sound normal.

[Funderb]

Pizzle, itll do that especially if you open the throttle a lot when youre cranking. Not a big deal out of the exhaust really. I have open pipes on my gs, and if i give it throttle and it doesn't want to start: BLAM!

[BaltimoreGS]

I wouldn't recommend it but you can get the same effect by using the kill switch for a few seconds while going downhill   

-Jessie

[pizzle]

Going to be a busy weekend! New headlight came in, and finally have time to make the tach work!!

How long does it take to warm up the engine in, let's say, 60F? When I start up in the morning, I probably have the choke on for a good 3 minutes, and then I just get impatient (and late for meetings), so I just take off. For the first mile or so, bike is not happy and wants to stall. Needs carb work? Rejetting? Need to adjust the idle (haven't been able to do this since I don't have a working tach yet!)? By the time I do get to work, which is about 15 minutes and seven miles, the engine has a pretty thumpy sound, kind of like a single-cylinder dirt-bike.

[adidasguy]

No need to wait 3 minutes to take off. Ride with choke on. Lower choke as you ride - high idle means lower the choke - step by step - until off.

[jestercinti]

Sounds like you have the stock jetting, which causes long warm-up times due to EPA regulations and lean settings.  I had that issue (but mine was 1 minute, not 3) but quickly went away after a rejet.  You may need to clean the carb and/or rejet to get your bike to warm up quicker.  Do a search...there are tons of posts on cleaning and rejetting if interested.

Agree with Adidas.  Ride with choke on and slowly let the choke off.  That way you are getting some MPG not zero MPG sitting in your driveway.

[pizzle]

Call me a wimp (new rider), but I find it difficult to ride when cold and with the choke on. It feels very jerky and a bit unnerving.

Anyhow, I was blessed with an early weekend last night, and I got the tach parts installed! And THANK YOU bombsquad for suggesting buying all the parts, rather than just the broken bracket-thing; there's no way I could've salvaged #19 (the tach cable gasket).

So this is how my bike sits now as I'm attempting to install a new headlight:



Clearly it's a total rat-nest, which I can probably blame on some previous owner. Are all those wires supposed to be behind the headlight, or should they be tucked under the gas tank?

[adidasguy]

That's the way it is. It all goes inside a round headlight bucket. Crammed in like a 300 pound woman in a size 6 shoe.
In 2004 the wiring harness changed to all that is under the gas tank since there was no longer a headlight bucket with the fairing.

[pizzle]

Holy hell... can't fit the nut to screw on the indicator over the plug. This sucks. So much wood lost.