News:

The simplest way to help GStwin is to use this Amazon link to shop

Main Menu

T-Rexx No-Fairing-Cut Frame Sliders

Started by Formori, May 29, 2012, 05:54:54 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

Formori

For people who were curious about the T-Rexx Frame sliders (http://t-rex-racing.com/catalog.php?item=253) that install with no fairing modification, I installed them last night and they seem to work great! They're solid as a rock, and the mounting bracket actually seems to protect the engine rather than possibly stab it in a crash.

Just a note that T-Rexx has changed the design slightly of the slider bracket. It used to bolt directly into the crankcase using 2 smaller bolts along with 2 separate bars that go through the engine compartment, but now just has 2 offsets than sit on top of the crankcase bolts and do not directly attach to the motor casing. This still provides tons of crash protection but without possibly tearing into your engine on a high-speed slide.











Unlike other sliders that stick out from the fairing, I personally think these are pretty slick and look more stock. The only downfall is that it's now much harder to get at the oil cap to check the oil.

Enjoy!
Save a horse, ride a bike!

BockinBboy

Quote from: Formori on May 29, 2012, 05:54:54 AM
The only downfall is that it's now much harder to get at the oil cap to check the oil.

I recently purchased and installed these too, and you are right that they definately feel solid.  A buddy and I grabbed these when moving the bike and they didn't budge; however, they definately get hot after a ride, so use caution there.  This bothered me too about the oil cap... it is still accessible, but hard to get at with bigger hands, so be prepared to clean up a few drops of oil when checking it.

Quote from: Formori on May 29, 2012, 05:54:54 AM
Just a note that T-Rexx has changed the design slightly of the slider bracket. It used to bolt directly into the crankcase using 2 smaller bolts along with 2 separate bars that go through the engine compartment, but now just has 2 offsets than sit on top of the crankcase bolts and do not directly attach to the motor casing. This still provides tons of crash protection but without possibly tearing into your engine on a high-speed slide.

They sent me directions to the older design that bolted into the casing, so i thought i was missing some longer bolts and got frustrated... a quick call calmed me when they told me this 'slight design change'... It actually is a very quick and easy install!

- Bboy


Sonic Springs, R6 Shock, R6 Throttle Tube, Lowering Links, T-Rex Frame Sliders, SW-Motech Alu-Rack, SH46 Shad Topcase, Smoked Signals, Smoked LED Tailight, ZG Touring Windscreen

MVent03

Very cool.

Where did you get them? Did you order direct from the site?

Formori

For ordering to Canada you have to contact them by email and they send you a Paypal invoice. For states orders you can just use the site.

Excellent timing and feedback from the guys. Everything was included and while the instructions are a little vague, they're good enough to understand.
Save a horse, ride a bike!

BockinBboy

You may be able to find them on ebay as well.  You may notice a cost difference between their site and their ebay listing; however, it ends up being the same with their 15 dollar shipping charge on their site and the 'free' shipping on ebay.

- Bboy


Sonic Springs, R6 Shock, R6 Throttle Tube, Lowering Links, T-Rex Frame Sliders, SW-Motech Alu-Rack, SH46 Shad Topcase, Smoked Signals, Smoked LED Tailight, ZG Touring Windscreen

MVent03

These are probably next on my list now. I'm still really wanting a ZG double bubble WS especially for the asthetics of it but this is more practical.

Do you think it's possible to put this on without removing the fairings or is it mandatory for the install?

I really hate taking those things off.

adidasguy

You would have to remove the fairing to get at the front bolt. Really easy to remove fairing - just a couple minutes.
See my video:
http://youtu.be/U2lIhoUUewo

I have a smoke double bubble - make me a reasonable offer. I swapped it out for the touring windshield.

BockinBboy

Quote from: MVent03 on May 29, 2012, 11:05:59 AM

Do you think it's possible to put this on without removing the fairings or is it mandatory for the install?

I really hate taking those things off.

Pretty much have to take off the lower fairings to get at the forward engine mount bolt with any success.  It really is an easy install that takes 20-30 mins including fairing removal.

- Bboy


Sonic Springs, R6 Shock, R6 Throttle Tube, Lowering Links, T-Rex Frame Sliders, SW-Motech Alu-Rack, SH46 Shad Topcase, Smoked Signals, Smoked LED Tailight, ZG Touring Windscreen

MVent03

Well I have a cracked fairing on the right from a drop, it's right at where the signal attaches. And my Stebel air horn is on the left. My positioning of the horn takes a lot of finessing to get the fairing back on that side.

I'll be doing this regardless. If I had done it first it might have saved me the cracked fairing.

GI_JO_NATHAN

You only have to remove the lower fairing, so it shouldn't effect the turn signal.
Jonathan
'04 GS500
Quote from: POLLOCK28 (XDTALK.com)From what I understand from frequenting various forums you are handling this critisim completely wrong. You are supposed to get bent out of shape and start turning towards personal attacks.
Get with the program!

adidasguy

Only lower fairing needs removal. That's pretty simple. Turn signals or horn shouldn't interfere in any way or be an issue. I can't imagine how a horn would make it hard to remove the lower side fairings. See my video - its really simple.

MVent03

Quote from: adidasguy on May 29, 2012, 05:16:32 PM
Only lower fairing needs removal. That's pretty simple. Turn signals or horn shouldn't interfere in any way or be an issue. I can't imagine how a horn would make it hard to remove the lower side fairings. See my video - its really simple.

Its a big horn.  :D

I couldn't position it in the stock location. So it's to the left side nestled partially in between the inner and outer sides of the lower fairing.

Getting the faring off isn't hard. It's putting it back on around the horn and lining up the holes.

adidasguy

Quote from: MVent03 on May 29, 2012, 08:09:46 PM
Quote from: adidasguy on May 29, 2012, 05:16:32 PM
Only lower fairing needs removal. That's pretty simple. Turn signals or horn shouldn't interfere in any way or be an issue. I can't imagine how a horn would make it hard to remove the lower side fairings. See my video - its really simple.

Its a big horn.  :D

I couldn't position it in the stock location. So it's to the left side nestled partially in between the inner and outer sides of the lower fairing.

Getting the faring off isn't hard. It's putting it back on around the horn and lining up the holes.

Please give is a thrill and show us a picture of this bad ass horn   :icon_lol:
I bet cars think you're a truck barreling down on them.

Unsane

I had T-Rex sliders fitted to my GS500F and they were great except for two things...

1. Access to the oil plug, but we know this already

2. The screws that hold the crossbar (running under the carbys) kept coming loose and falling out - they are piss weak though so don't over tighten them as they will snap! I ended up replacing them with some hi-tensile screws and used a little mid-strength loctite

2001 Trek 6kw Electric Mountain Bike
2003 Sachs Madass
2004 Suzuki GS500F
2011 Kawasaki ZX10R
2000 Suzuki TL1000R

MVent03

Quote from: Unsane on May 29, 2012, 08:16:10 PM
I had T-Rex sliders fitted to my GS500F and they were great except for two things...

1. Access to the oil plug, but we know this already

2. The screws that hold the crossbar (running under the carbys) kept coming loose and falling out - they are piss weak though so don't over tighten them as they will snap! I ended up replacing them with some hi-tensile screws and used a little mid-strength loctite

Good to know, I replace a lot of bolts with Grade 8 or the 10.X metric bolts. Its overkill but I've had to many bolts strip on me. I've also turned into a locktite guy

BockinBboy

Quote from: Unsane on May 29, 2012, 08:16:10 PM
2. The screws that hold the crossbar (running under the carbys) kept coming loose and falling out - they are piss weak though so don't over tighten them as they will snap! I ended up replacing them with some hi-tensile screws and used a little mid-strength loctite

... yeah, just after I talked these sliders up... wish I knew this 24 hours ago... washed my bike after riding to work today and noticed this screw was missing, must have jiggled loose and fell off sometime today.  Gonna go pick up a new one at hardware store and I'm loctite 'n that puppy on there...

- Bboy


Sonic Springs, R6 Shock, R6 Throttle Tube, Lowering Links, T-Rex Frame Sliders, SW-Motech Alu-Rack, SH46 Shad Topcase, Smoked Signals, Smoked LED Tailight, ZG Touring Windscreen

Formori

Well, when I get home, I'm loctit'ing both of those bolts in there so I don't lose one in the first place!
Save a horse, ride a bike!

Unsane

LOL  :icon_mrgreen:

My theory is that the cross beam works up a bit of a vibration from the engine and the bolts dont stand a chance
I would also recommend putting in a packing washer between the cross beam and one of the side plates if there is any clearance

2001 Trek 6kw Electric Mountain Bike
2003 Sachs Madass
2004 Suzuki GS500F
2011 Kawasaki ZX10R
2000 Suzuki TL1000R

MVent03

Quote from: adidasguy on May 29, 2012, 08:13:19 PM
Quote from: MVent03 on May 29, 2012, 08:09:46 PM
Quote from: adidasguy on May 29, 2012, 05:16:32 PM
Only lower fairing needs removal. That's pretty simple. Turn signals or horn shouldn't interfere in any way or be an issue. I can't imagine how a horn would make it hard to remove the lower side fairings. See my video - its really simple.

Its a big horn.  :D

I couldn't position it in the stock location. So it's to the left side nestled partially in between the inner and outer sides of the lower fairing.

Getting the faring off isn't hard. It's putting it back on around the horn and lining up the holes.

Please give is a thrill and show us a picture of this bad ass horn   :icon_lol:
I bet cars think you're a truck barreling down on them.

As requested,


Picture of install position without fairing.





dgyver

Kind of scary attaching a structural plate to the aluminum engine case. Looks like an easy way to crack the case in a crash.
Common sense in not very common.

SMF spam blocked by CleanTalk