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My GS500F to E .. "project" (plus repairs)

Started by Phil B, June 13, 2012, 12:07:16 PM

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adidasguy

Triple in the mail. With a container of good grease.
Keep us posted. We want to see you riding really soon.

bombsquad83


rock_rebel

Quote from: adidasguy on June 17, 2012, 09:57:39 PM
I don't see the headlight brackets there.
So.....
The way to get them on is to remove the top triple. Its the 2 bolts on teh top triple and  the steering stem bolt. Take that off then slide the headlight brackets on. Then put the top triple back on. (Don't feel bad - I forgot them on Phenix! That's how I got them on without completely removing the forks and front wheel.)

If the clamps on the fork tube are tight, pry them open a little with a large screw driver after you remove the bolts on the top triple.

NOTE: The speedo cable must be removed from the bracket on the outside of the fork. It has to be routed inside between the forks due to the headlight bracket.

Watch the wires so they do not get caught in the steering column - especially the stop just above the lower triple.

These should show a little how things go...











What type is the large bolt you used to attach the headlight to those brackets?

adidasguy

#43
I recall I used a bolt for the foot peg brackets.

That headlight from Germany had threaded holes.

Ones without threaded holes that have a nylon bushing and require a nut inside (and a nut in the rider's seat) the foot peg bolt is not long enough.


rock_rebel

Quote from: adidasguy on June 19, 2012, 05:56:51 PM
I recall I used a bolt for the foot peg brackets.

That headlight from Germany had threaded holes.

Ones without threaded holes that have a nylon bushing and require a nut inside (and a nut in the rider's seat) the foot peg bolt is not long enough.

Crap, my headlight came with no hardware and I believe I need bushings.

Phil B

Update: Thanks to the wonder-worker of seattle, I have a new triple lower clamp.
I get home late, so ... "I'll just check out how the forks sit in it".

....

....


well okay then. that was a good 2 hours spent. tomorrow I can put on the wheel and light. again :->

1/2 hour was spent scrounging around neighbours to borrow a 22 metric. Which no-one had. grr.
But turns out a 7/8th works just as well. Important!

btw... "The gs toolkit" actually has a #22 wrenchy thing.

Too bad it's USELESS unless you manage to remove the entire clamp, etc, etc. because the tank doesnt give you room to turn it otherwise :p


Mid process piccies:

(you probably cant see.. but this is to show off that the durn bar turn stop, has been whacked to the left :(  )


Here's an unfortunately blurry pic of what it looks like right after you take off that "steering bolt", then lift up the entire handlebar/topclamp/etc stuff. Turns out I didnt have to remove the handlebars after all. Grr.
(although it may have helped a bit)



Aaand, here's that stuff hanging down the front. but the handlebars resting on the tank, to take the stress off the wires n attachments.


Slightly bad news... seems like I've nicked the clutch cable so the rubber cover has been scraped off in one place :( but I think the metal underneath is okay. looks okay. Still a metal spiral cover around the "real" cable, seems like.

Was too tired to take more photos at end.
Tomorrow, hopefully I'll have a good pic of a once-more running bike :)
Just lining it up, it seems like it still might be SLIGHTLY slightly off... (probably due to fact that I tightened stem bolt with upper clamp tightened, but not lower clamp)  but hopefully, not noticable like it was before.

"Wheel" see tomorrow!


adidasguy

Good progress!
We all learn what we "didn't have to remove" anytime we look back on what we just did.
Loosen up things, let the forks and triples settle in where they should be then tighten things up again.
Sounds like you'll be on the road again tomorrow.
:cheers:

Phil B


Phil B

And here she is! Wheel actually lined up with the fender, hurrah.


and here is the battlefield of fallen soldiers:



gadZOOKS this took me a long time. More of them were actually "buried" already.

adidasguy


Phil B

Thanks :)
It's very very good to be back on a bike again.


adidasguy

Nicking the plastic on the cable is OK. Its the insides that are important and that is hard to damage. Someday in the future that can be replaced for cosmetic reasons. Until then, just insure your cables and stuff is all lubed up and you will be fine.

Now go ride and have fun!

You did a fantastic job!

(And you learned a lot - especially that a lot of this stuff is not that hard - once you've done it!)

Phil B

Yeah.. the part I dislike the most, is the messiness. Once I decided to sacrifice a T shirt, and disposable gloves, its not bad though

comradeiggy

I got a pair of nitrile covered work gloves from Home Depot for $4. Much more environmentally friendly than disposables, and much more durable and protective, I suggest when you run out you get a pair. All you have to do is throw them in the washing machine (or a bucket of hot soapy water) and then let them dry and they are good to go for the next round.

Phil B

I actually looked for a good non-disposable pair, at a good "tool" place, where I got my other stuff.
All the "mechanic's gloves" they had, did not actually look very oil resistant. Odd.

I found a cheap pair of impervious gloves somewhere else, but it was an idiotic "one size (definitely does NOT) fits all". The only ones available.

I use that when I have something quick, dirty and easy. But they're just too clumsy for any technical work. I have Small/medium ish hands, and they are XL or something annoying. Arrg!

AC2B

Did the new triple fix your steering lock issue as well? I've got a similar issue and am wondering if I should just go ahead and replace the triple.


Phil B

Quote from: AC2B on July 02, 2012, 10:47:21 AM
Did the new triple fix your steering lock issue as well? I've got a similar issue and am wondering if I should just go ahead and replace the triple.

ah. erm.. good news, and bad news. VERY bad news.

yes, it improved it. a little.

However,the problem with the steering lock, is that the tube-thingie that holds the triple clamp?
That's the main orientation for the steering lock. And thats part of the *frame*.
aint no fixing that.

well, actually, I tried a few whacks anyway ;)  but "fixing" that, is just as likely to put the vertical alightment of the thing out.
I THINK that the thing is somewhat cleanly kinda rolled to the side, but its still mostly vertical.

Hmm... now that I think about it.. DANGIT! it couldnt possibly be completely clean. If it's "over a bit", then kinda by definition, it has to have moved my alignment off a bit.
but at least I think it's only parallel to the way its supposed to be, It's not actually twisted so that my wheel is at an angle.

I think.

Guess that's another reason I should stay the heck off any canyon riding now.
Siggghhh..

It's very ridable. But I think that explains why it was not quite as clean when I was turning at a well-known corner near my house. Wheel seems to not quite stick as cleanly as I'm used to. THought it was my suspension changes. But now that I've "talked" this out, it's probably the frame.

#@$@#$!!

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