Rattle can paint: Am I expecting too much?

[Zwerski]

So I have been busy getting my new to me front mud guard (thanks, adidasguy) to replace the one one of the PO's melted, complete with new paint and new mud flap. I wanted to paint it gloss black to match the rest of the bike, since the mudguard was a metallic dark charcoal color when
I got it. I am having a tough time with the paint. I have been using with great success on othet projects RustOleum gloss black. With those, Icould cover in two thin coats with a nice smooth finish. For some reason, and I suspect overspray from trying to evenly coat the curved surfaces of the mudguard, I keep getting either an orange peel finish, or uneven streaks. Temps here have been in the mid-70's with low NorCal humidity and little wind. I have been applying the paint in the morning and dry or wet sanding, and prepping between coats per instructions on the can. What is up?

[Formori]

You're getting the orange-peel effect because of one of two reasons:

1) the paint in the can isn't aerosolizing properly when it leaves the nozzle, and you need to clean out the rattle can's nozzle (take it off and soak it in appropriate thinner for the type of paint)

2) The coverage per coat doesn't matter as much as the evenness of it, I would personally do up to 10 thin coats from the rattle-can and have a nice smooth finish. Then afterwards you can wet sand and polish.

Anyone else got anything? Maybe it's the plastic itself and the type of paint?

[noiseguy]

I would try another brand to see if issues persist. Krylon comes to mind. As I recall, Rustoleum tends to coat thinner / runnier than Krylon.

[Worm]

To help with the atomizing, put the cans in warm water. Increases the pressure in the can and the mist is finer and more even. Also, cleaning the nozzle is a good idea!

[Tombstones81]

Well, based on my own experience.
I suspect you're simply spraying Too much paint.

Never had orange peel yet but yes I have had runs which were from only 1 reason with mine.... trying or accidentally spraying too much on one coat or not fully waiting for the previous coat to dry enough.

Dont worry about getting it even.

Simply start out with a Clean, unmolested surface.

and go at it with Very light coats to start.
you Dont need to get the thing fully colored right off the bat or even on the first 3 or 4 coats.

Once you get the hang of it, it really is quite easy.

Light coat.... wait 5 to 10 mins...
Light coat... wait the same
Light... wait the same again

after the 2nd to 4th light coat, you can start going a Little thicker, but be sure to wait 5 to 10 mins between coats.

and one Main thing, dont hold the can very close.

if its just that small mud flap in the front.
then holding the can like a foot to a foot and a half away should be good.

and spray method...
Just go side to side, starting out Away from whatever it is ur painting and then sweeping across it evenly.

thats exactly how I did mine.

and I've spray painted my Entire bike.
minus the lower half of the engine and forks in this pic.




(edit)
here is how Light each coat should be when starting out.
and not much thicker after a few are on.

it looks like it might be a thick coat, but it wasnt.
that was a Very light first coat.

[Huff1371]

Tombstone is right, I did mine with many many many LIGHT coats. Alos, prep is where it's at, make sure it starts perfect so it can finish perfect. Use a new can of paint so you know the nozzle is good. hear is what I got rattle-can, it'll never be like HVLP but it can be close.

[codajastal]

Rattle can paint jobs are fine. Just make sure prep is good and take it slow.





What strange world am I in?

[noiseguy]

I can see the pics of your work now. Looks like you're either laying paint on a unprepped surface, not laying it thick enough for it to flow out, or that the paint's drying too fast due to sun and wind. Are you painting this in the open? Try painting first thing in the morning if so.

Otherwise, I'd colorsand what you have now (1500 - 2000 grit wet sand) and buff out with finishing polish. Might give you better results than an additional coat at this point.

[Zwerski]

Arrright. Got it done to my liking yesterday and installed last night. What I now think I was doing wrong was using old paint. I did not think about the age to the can of paint when I began the project, but when one of you guys brought up the idea of warming up the paint can to give the propellant more push, I thought about it, and could not remember when I bought it. So I went out and got some new paint and also some auto clear coat. The fender was shot in halves - front and rear. I had to deal with some minor imperfections - lint and a bug -  on the rear, so I wet sanded those areas with 1500 grit and re-shot the whole rear with clear coat. The next day, I wet sanded the entire front section with 600, then 1500 and let it sit overnight. Then, I re-shot the front with the new black paint and bammo. All done. I also added another stock fork brace and repainted them both.

Here are some pics of the installed fender, complete with new mud flap:




Here is what it is replacing. Melted rear of the old mud guard and no mud flap.

[adidasguy]

#5046

Looks good.

Fresh paint does work better than old stuff. Like fresh gas, fresh oil, fresh food, fresh kitty litter. 

[jdoorn14]

fresh kitty litter. 

[threadjack]
Note: if you let your cat roam outside, your cat is just as likely to turn someone else's garden into a litterbox as using the litterbox in your house, thus requiring less fresh kitty litter. On the other hand, your cat might get injured in some way.

Now to wait for the argument to spill into a new thread. 
[/threadjack]


Your fender looks good. I wouldn't have thought of the age of the paint, either.

[Huff1371]

Everywhere I go I'm running into that damn thread. Good one