need help figuring out fuel 04 gs500f

[adidasguy]

The float and float needle are what allow fuel from the tank/petcock fuel line INTO the carb bowl. If stuck closed - no fuel goes anywhere. If stuck OPEN, then fuel keeps on coming and flows out of the carb intakes and anywhere else it can go.

[Huff1371]

Wow, this seems to be way over complicated. Hears about the only time I'll ever say  this, Get someone who knows what they are doing to show you in person what's going on.  These things are not complicated. Just don't lose anything. And yes BUY A FRIGGING MANUAL.

[adidasguy]

Wow, this seems to be way over complicated. Hears about the only time I'll ever say  this, Get someone who knows what they are doing to show you in person what's going on.  These things are not complicated. Just don't lose anything. And yes BUY A FRIGGING MANUAL.

Yep - lack  of pictures and OP not having a manual means I'm bowing out of this one.

[Ryanstalin]

wow. that was unnecessary. for one phil, you are right. two. I have a manual, read all of my posts. I have post pictures, but im not a picture whore. the ones I have are good enough for the questions im asking, which i asked if you back out the drain screw, shouldnt fuel come out, because I have none on the right carb, but alot on the left carb. I have the manual, and my carb doesnt even match anyone in the book.

[weedahoe]

Based on that being said right there, go back and read post 40. Adidasguy pretty much covers it

[Ryanstalin]

well how do I fix it? I have it unplugged now.

[adidasguy]

Back one last time.

We have answered your questions based on the couple pictures.

We do not know what manual you have. There are manuals that do have the current carbs.

When you say you "I have it unplugged now". We have no idea. What is "it"? You must post lots of pictures. We have said a lot and have no idea what you are doing. We have to SEE what you unplug. We have to SEE the hoses, where they connect  and how they are routed.

We are not there looking over your shoulder. There is only one way we can really know what you are doing: pictures. Lots of pictures.

I've been through things like this with software support. "My program broke. How do I fix it"? Did you get an error message? "Yes, there was a message and I clicked on it so what does that mean?" What was the message and which button did you click on? "You're the expert. You tell me. I just clicked and now it isn't doing what I want".

[Ryanstalin]

I have the hardback haynes manual with color on the front.
but

the red curcle, what line is that, why is there fuel coming out of it. there is also a secondary t-pipe under that one, it is hooked up to the frame mounted petcock.  but the red circle t-pipe has no where to be hooked up to. so for now its just one rubber hose leaning over my air box.
also if it helps, theres a small lake of fuel in my airbox.

[BockinBboy]

So you have the fuel line from the petcock hooked up correctly.  And the Red circled line is the vent hose, which yes does not connect to anything, and is now leaking fuel.  So fuel is coming out of the carb vent hose (aka carb overflow).  This generally means that you have a carb float(s) stuck open, or your needle seat(s) are bad/somethings stuck under it. 

When one of these things happen, the carbs internal orifices leak fuel into the engine through the intake valves,past the rings,and directly into the oil sump... so once you get it figured out, i.e. fuel is delivered to the carbs correctly and stays there... be sure to change your oil.  Gas in the oil will lose its lubrication properties.

- Bboy

[Ryanstalin]

alright, so I take out the carbs, take them apart find the problem. can I clean the part, or will I need new ones? and where can I get the parts?

[bombsquad83]

From a short perusal of your thread here, it seems to me that your issues stem from sticking or improperly set float needle valves.  Since new ones aren't cheap, I recommend that you try cleaning the valve and the seat and checking the condition of the tip of the rubber needle valve.  Look in your manual at the part that describes how to set the float height.  Check that your's is within spec.  Then put things back together. 

To test that things are working, hook a clear tube up to the drain of a carb and bend it upward into a U shape.  Open the drain and set the petcock on prime.  The gas level in the tube should be at the same level as the float bowl gasket.  If it's higher, then your float is not closing soon enough (try raising the float height).  If the gas level is lower than the float bowl gasket, then you float is closing too soon (try lowering the float height).  Do this independently for each carb.

If you do all of this adjusting and you can't get the gas level correct, then you may need new needle valve assemblies.  Part number 21 on this parts fiche.

You can purchase them from ronayers.com.  They are not cheap at $51 per carb, but I recommend using OEM parts and not cheap aftermarket ones.

Remember to turn your carb back to ON before letting it sit.   It sounds like you might have already flooded your airbox/engine with fuel.  I definitely recommend that you change your oil before riding again, and make sure any excess gas is cleaned out of the airbox.

People here can give you suggestions of what to do all day, but nobody is going to give you every single step in the process.  Please don't be offended when they ask you to refer to your manual.  This is simply for your own good, as the manual details every step with pictures better than we could describe it with a quick post.  Good luck!

[Ryanstalin]

everything you said is true. but Im a little dyslexic? I'll get lost sometimes. I perfer short simple answers. OR learn by hands on. either way google, and this forum I can get my answers, I use the manual as another go-to. but the manual doesnt tell me what to do when the carb screws are stripped. I cant get anything on the bottom apart.

[BockinBboy]

Those screws are JIS head (Japanese Industrial Standard).  Not phillips.  If you use a phillips screwdriver, you will strip them.  At this point, you will need to put a slot into the screw heads by grinding all of the stripped screws with a rotary tool or hacksaw and remove them with a flat head screwdriver. Some folks manage to use an impact, and get them out that route... But you will needto the hardware store and replace all the JIS screws.. I suggest replacing them with socket head cap screws.

- Bboy

[jestercinti]

I have the hardback haynes manual with color on the front.
but

the red curcle, what line is that, why is there fuel coming out of it. there is also a secondary t-pipe under that one, it is hooked up to the frame mounted petcock.  but the red circle t-pipe has no where to be hooked up to. so for now its just one rubber hose leaning over my air box.
also if it helps, theres a small lake of fuel in my airbox.

I see several things wrong here.  First, the upper vent for the carb (has a small cylinder attached to it, like a filter) should be laying on TOP near the airbox.  See picture in Adidasguy's post.

Next, the hose circled in RED is the float vent.  You need this to route on top of the airbox as pictured, and tucked behind the airbox between the airbox and battery.  NO KINKS or your bike will not run.  When gas is burned, the volume in the floats needs to be filled with something...that's air.  It's like when you pour gas out of a jerry can and you open up the little vent on top.  Flows better, no glug-glug-glug.  If gas is coming out of this, you have a problem with float needles not shutting off the gas properly.  Read Bombsquad's last post.

The bottom 'T' that you talk about is the fuel line from the petcock.

There should be hose going from the top of the engine to the nipple on the airbox.  This is called the breather tube.

[Ryanstalin]

I get that. cant I just soak the needle in a degressor? do you have a picture of where those parts are>?

[bombsquad83]

http://www.sportlandmotorsports.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=300550&category=Motorcycles&make=SUZUKI&year=2004&fveh=7247

That's a little bit clearer fiche.  Maybe someone with a 2004+ carb can give you a picture of the real thing.

[adidasguy]

Here is a pile of photos when I removed carbs from the donor bike for Phenix. You can see a lot if you study them.
The red cap on a "T" is the block off from removing the PAIR system.
In second photo, there is a fuel line sticking up at the bottom. Next to it there is a fat hose which went from the PAIR system to the lower second vent hole on the airbox.

















That red cap remember was for the PAIR system. It connected to the vacuum operated switch mounted on the frame on  the left above the engine on the round support bar. Pictures do show 2 screw mounting holes in that round bar.






This shows a hose and "T"connecting the carbs. This was Calif. emissions and right now I forget what but I think part of the CANISTER system. My 2009 has a PAIR system (not for much longer) but nothing connecting the carbs at the engine side. I will have to remove the hoses and cap off in order to get the long-boy mixture screws in there. The hose connection blocks any access to the right carb mixture screw. The donor bike originated in California.

[bombsquad83]

Jester:not correct on the vent hoses. There are 2 from the tops of the carbs.
Here is a pile of photos when I removed carbs from the donor bike for Phenix. You can see a lot if you study them.
The red cap on a "T" is the block off from removing the PAIR system.

Jester is correct on the carb vents.  He was describing exactly what you have pictured...

I think the OP is looking for pics of the inside of the float bowl to see what needs to be adjusted/replaced.

Those pictures are helpful though.  I can't believe the mess of hoses on the newer carbs.

[Ryanstalin]

yeah i got all the hoses right. what i need is pictures of inside the 2004+ carbs. and label what s what..

[Ryanstalin]

so which one of these do I need to pull out so I can clean? and how do I clean it?