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Guess what's a pain the as(terisk)?

Started by Zwerski, March 29, 2013, 03:04:50 PM

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Zwerski

Bleeding the front brakes sucks. Chr!st almighty I had a f**k-all of a time installing my HEL stainless brake lines today. Rear went fine, but the front got a bubble or something in there. I tried all kinds of shennannigans to get it out - tapping with a screwdriver, etc. Plus my new Speed Bleeder did not work one bit. $25 down the drain. Here they are, but with the old bolts installed. The beautiful new stainless ones that came with the kit were threaded M10x1.25 while the stock ones are M10x1.0. Once I was in there, there was no calling the guy and having him ship me out some new ones. Anyhoo, they work nicely, and the bike's got new fluid and current lines (old ones were 16 years old). Take a look (SHINY!):

Rear line attachment to the brake actuator:


Front line attachment to the caliper:

adidasguy

#1
Not uncommon for banjo bolts to come with wrong threads. Old banjos are fine to re-use. always use new crush washers. Bought lots of SS brake lines so that's how I know. We do use both sizes on our bikes if you compare master cylinders and brake calipers.


You will like the feel of the brakes. Now you will actually notice there is a fear brake!



Zwerski

Yeah. These really woke up the rear brake, for sure. Braking seems crisper, but I think there is still a bubble in the front. Stops really nice, though. When I tested them out on my street, I actually got on the front enough to make the tire squeal a little. A lot cleaner looking on the bike, too.

codajastal

Yeah I just had to bleed my front brake and I am in the same boat. What a PITA :dunno_black:
I am not interested in anything you have to say
Don't bother talking to me, I will not answer you

Juan1

Have you tried rotating the reservoir forward, squeezing the brake all the way then closing the bleed screw, and then tapping the reservoir? It worked for me once.
1982 Kawi GPZ-750, 1998 GS500.

Watevaman

 Bleeding the front took me like 30 minutes because I was certain nothing was happening. But it's worth it in the end.
Bike: 1990 GS500E (Vance & Hines full system, K&N Lunchbox, BM Clubmaster bars, Katana rear shock, 0.90 Sonic Springs), 2000 ZRX1100 (Kerker slip-on)
Location: Virginia

jestercinti

Bought a vacuum pump. Best $30 I spent. Love it. Great for bleeding brakes.


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Bikeless and Broke at the moment...

Scoz

Nice job man. Stainless lines look much nicer than the stock ones too.  I cant wait to do this to mine as well.  Do you find a big difference in modulation of the rear break?  I really don't like the mushy weirdness of that thing stock.  But maybe its just me? :dunno_black:

Zwerski

The stainless lines are a lot skinnier than stock too.

Erika

I had the same problem after putting on new ss lines. Stupid air bubble. It took me a couple tries on different days to get it out. I would give up and come back on a different day, but the bubble would not budge. I even borrowed a vaccuum pump. At least I have new pads and rubber parts in the caliper, though. I was surpised how extra cruddy the caliper was inside. Now I have to do the rear one knowing it's probably also cruddy. I just dread dealing with the bubble again, though.

noworries

#10
Worth a try...at the end of bleeding, pull the lever back hard, secure to bar with cable tie or two, leave overnight. Can do similar with rear. May assist is removing that last bubble.

Juan1

Quote from: noworries on March 30, 2013, 07:39:07 PM
Worth a try...at the end of bleeding, pull the lever back hard, secure to bar with cable tie or two, leave overnight. Can do similar with rear. May assist is removing that last bubble.

Had to do this on another motorcycle once.  Worked like a charm. 
1982 Kawi GPZ-750, 1998 GS500.

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