oil drain plug threads stripped

[dr_patso]

Found this old thread, http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=61909.0 I started a reply and the forum suggested I start a new topic due to age.


I really hope to get this fixed in ~2 weeks. below are my options and i hope I can get some direction or input if anyone would like to help. I got a brand new drain plug and crush washer from bike bandit  before my first oil change because I like to be prepared. Wasn't prepared enough I guess lol. The new plug will go in pretty close to the point of needing a wrench to tighten theres maybe 1/8 turn of slight resistance before the bolt falls down and I have to start again. I didn't think much, but the drain plug was already loose, once i got it out I discovered it had a rubber o ring on top of the crush washer, I thought the guy was just an idiot. He told me he changed the oil, must've forgot about jerry rigging the drain plug. (the old drain plug does the same thing, I got the correct replacement from bike bandit)

-universal plug (how does this fix my issue? shorter bolt that won't get far enough in the hole to hit the stripped threads? If this works all the links on the thread are for discontinued items so this option does not seem viable unless I get some help)

-one size up drain plug (if this somehow works won't this strip some more aluminum and risk aluminum bits getting in my motor?)

-eBay used oil pan (30-40$ but no guarantee the drain plug threads are good!)

-remove pan and tap out for one size up (never done this before, I may not be capable and the tools or labor may cost more than a replacement pan)

-brand new oil pan and gasket from bike bandit (~60$)

[dr_patso]

- mess up quote

[0Bw4n]

Back in the day I used to work for an quick oil change place. However, I've never done this on a motorcycle.

If the threads were stripped - we would tap for size up (with the pan in place), then flush the oil. Important - DO NOT START THE ENGINE until you've flushed enough oil through so that it comes out clean. (Oil was a LOT cheaper back in the late 90's)

Most universal oil plugs from back then were for temporary use only. I haven't looked at any in a LONG time, so I'm not sure if that has changed. The two styles I'm familiar with were very different from each other. One was in essence a toggle bolt with a rubber gasket - this was the preferred style. The other was a screw type inside a rubber tube. When the screw was tightened, it would compress the length of the rubber tube and thus expand the width. I can not recommend this style - they tend to not last long. (Similar to how the bar end sliders/caps work on the gs500 handle bars - but these are not under pressure and if they come off, won't destroy your engine).

However, as stated - I've never performed this on a bike - so your mileage may vary.

If you are worried about shavings, then I would drop the oil pan. It may take some time, but would be your best bet for absolutely no shavings. However, if you are dropping the pan, and you have to buy a tap and new plug - make sure that is indeed cheaper than a new pan. If the pan is already off, it may be a good time to go ahead and replace it.

You should just need some sockets and wrenches, and lower your exhaust. I'll crawl up under my bike this weekend and take a look to see how hard it would be.

[dr_patso]

Ended up getting a oil pan pulled from an '89 of ebay for 35$ shipped. Of course bike bandit wanted 8$ shipping for the gasket so I'm out 55$.. Just need to remember that's less than a gas tank for my truck.

[0Bw4n]

$55 total isn't bad. Good luck on changing it. I don't think you'll have too much trouble. Let us know how it turns out.

[dr_patso]

Thanks! Hopefully the eBay item is alright, it was pulled from one with a cracked piston or something. The listing did say every aspect of the bike besides cracked piston was functioning so I should be able to file a claim if not. I'm wondering now if I should order some bolts for the oil pan just in case.. I did ask the seller if they can include those, looks like the drain plug is in there. Now I'll have 3 drain plugs!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/300881506378?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

[Big Rich]

I've never had an issue with oil pan bolts. Just be careful when removing the old gasket: any gouges in the block will result in a small oil leak. And while you have the pan off, check the oil pump pickup screen - good time to unbolt it and clean it as well.

[slipperymongoose]

You could make a bit of your money back by repairing your old pan with a helicoil and selling it on eBay.

[Leadberry]

You could make a bit of your money back by repairing your old pan with a helicoil and selling it on eBay.

I would be extremely clear and up front about it if you go this route.  Helicoil tends to fall apart after a while, and it's only fair that any potential buyer be made aware of that risk.

[slipperymongoose]

You could make a bit of your money back by repairing your old pan with a helicoil and selling it on eBay.

I would be extremely clear and up front about it if you go this route.  Helicoil tends to fall apart after a while, and it's only fair that any potential buyer be made aware of that risk.

Obviously you would state this it goes without saying. Dunno what you mean about helicoils falling apart though, they are pretty solid. Where I work the engineers specs tell me to tension 530nm on a m20 bolt that goes into a helicoiled thread. Holds up just fine

[dr_patso]

nah, i'm throwing away the old pan if this works. Thanks for the tips. Sounds pretty easy as long as I'm careful. Not sure how the previous owner could go from tightening it so hard he strips it to being happy with a loose bolt and a big o ring around the plug haha.

[BockinBboy]

Don't forget to install a good crush washer on that drain plug when you button her back up.

- Bboy

[Leadberry]

You could make a bit of your money back by repairing your old pan with a helicoil and selling it on eBay.

I would be extremely clear and up front about it if you go this route.  Helicoil tends to fall apart after a while, and it's only fair that any potential buyer be made aware of that risk.

Obviously you would state this it goes without saying. Dunno what you mean about helicoils falling apart though, they are pretty solid. Where I work the engineers specs tell me to tension 530nm on a m20 bolt that goes into a helicoiled thread. Holds up just fine

I change oil for a living.  On average, I'd say 1 out of every 5 helicoils I see in a drain pan is falling apart.  We've had to send several vehicles to the garage next door to have pans replaced due to this.  I'm sure your engineers' specs are very nice, but I'm speaking from experience.

[slipperymongoose]

The specs are nice till your swinging on the torque wrench yourself tensioning the bolt. It looses its fun after the 8th one. They use helicoils on purpose cause they hold up than the original threads.

[Big Rich]

I'm not taking sides, stirring the pot, or anything like that. Just want to share my experience with heli coils and drain plugs.

When I bought my GR650 years ago, it ALWAYS marked it's territory from a leaking drain plug. I tried all the normal fixes - proper torque setting, new crush washers, different drain plug, etc, etc.. It wasn't until I decided to pull the oil pan off to clean out the oil pump screen that I found out the plug hole had a heli coil. First off, the coil went too far up into the pan, not allowing all the oil (and some sludge) to drain when I did an oil change. Second, there was a crack in the oil pan leading up to the drain plug threads. What caused the crack, I'll never know. I ultimately ended up replacing the oil pan with a good one on eBay and never had a problem since then.

I don't expect anybody to feel the same way, but I think heli coils should be used if the part isn't easily replaceable. Drain plug threads? Get a new pan, maybe keep the old one "just in case". Exhaust stud on a 1974 Triumph? Heli coil for sure.

[slipperymongoose]

You nailed it there rich.

[fetor56]

If u wish to repair rather than replace a helicoil would be reasonable.It has limitations though cos it's only a coil of stainless & it can also wind-down.A time-sert would be better,but,anything would be better than a crappy rubber seal.
http://www.timesert.com/

[dr_patso]

update:

oil pan bolts off. It's on there pretty good, I am nervous about damaging the mating surface prying it off with a flat head. I thought maybe I could use a bolt to pull it off but it appears the oil pan itself doesn't have any threads. I hit the oil pan with a rubber mallet for a bit with no success.

[dr_patso]

Oil pan is off! I gently pried with a screw driver on a corner. Oil pan shipped priority from Florida I hope to have it by Thursday. Anything I should know before putting the new oil pan on? I will get some gasket remove to gently and thoroughly clean the new oil pan and motor mating surface. Do I need to leave the new gasket dry or oil it up like an oil filter?

[Big Rich]

Nah, you can install it dry.