Rejet needed with slip-on Laser exhaust?

[Bioflap]

The washers go between the clip and the slide so as to raise the needle with respect to the jet.

Buddha was referring to pilot size 40 and main size 125 the jet sizes increment by 2.5 so +1 step is 127.5

Great. So i can buy a set of 127.5 jets? Then i'll put them in, put the pilot screw at 3 turns out at both sides. Then place 3 #4 or M3 washers under the clip and above the needle seat?

125 and 40 is what you should have, no need to get 127.5. if you have 125/40, let it be.
Clymers may be wrong, the suzuki manual says 125/40 in europe/canada.

Floats @ top of bowl is not all the way up, leave that be, you may screw it up ...
Cool.
Buddha

Cool! I'll be trying that in the morning. Just wondering, i'm also missing power in the high revs compared with the stock exhaust. That will be fixed too?

[radodrill]

Just to improve my knowledge about the GS.
I place the washers at the needle to make more fuel run through the carbs right? And it should make my dead spot around 4-5k at a higher point?

A good read on carb tuning

In essence, the Main jet size is the primary factor for top end performance.  Once you have the best main jet, the needle height is adjusted for best mid range performance. The float height and pilot jet size are what dictate low end performance.  Final idle adjust is controlled by the idle/mixture screw and the idle adjust screw (on the butterfly valve).

Dead spots can occur when you don't have everything sized/adjusted with respect to one another.  For example, if I have the needle set right and change to a size smaller main jet; at WOT (Wide Open Throttle) there is a pronounced dead spot around 6K RPM.  With the main jet a size larger than ideal (i.e. 2 sizes larger than previous case) it get a bit of stuttering/hesitation around 6-7K