My 1st Moto project - 2004 GS500f Rebuild and going naked

[NikonAndy]

I'll start off with, Hello! Been checking out the forums for the past couple days and it seems I've found my new favorite spot.

I just picked up a 2004 GS500f for a couple hundred bucks. I've been itching for a project and this bike fell in my lap. Looks like I'll be tearing her down and hopefully form her a bit to be more of a café racer style bike. We'll see how that goes.

I'll try to keep a chronicle here of my progress and I've no doubt I'll be asking tons of questions. My (limited) experience with vehicles is a rebuild of a 351 Windsor and rebuild / full restoration of a 1965 mustang fastback. Never done a bike yet. A little nervous, but excited.

A few pics of what I'm starting with:

Oil under the bike is from crankcase cover bolts being pulled ages ago and not being put back in. Slow drip. (Thank god I found the bolts)



I started pulling off flairing


Here's the story of the bike:

It's been in a garage for about 4 years after the owner heard a knocking in the engine. Got put out in the weather for about 6 months of that. I was able to piece it back together enough to start it and run it for about 10 seconds to see if it would even turn over, had compression, etc. It did!

In those 10 seconds I heard the knocking and it's not pleasant. In fact it sounds like maybe crankshaft or connecting rods knocking. Not sure yet, so that'll be step one in my adventure.

Unfortunately, in my haste, I didn't realize the gas was also as old as it's been sitting. I found what feels like 1/4" of rust / sludge in the gas tank. Checked the inline fuel filter (must've been added by the last owner) between the tank and the petcock and saw no noticeable debris. Filters may have saved the day, but I'll be tearing the carb out and checking everything to be sure. I've got some por 15 today and I'll be shaking that tank for a couple hours tonight it looks like.

I am having a heck of a time getting all the fuel out of the tank though. I've removed the filler cap entirely and the fuel delivery valve / pre-petcock (or whatever it is) and shook the living daylights out of it and there's still stuff in it. It seems the odd tank size makes it hard to get all the gas out. Any tips on that?

I'll be pulling the engine tonight as well, inbetween Por 15 shaking, and starting to strip it down to the core and see what's up inside. Any tips on what to do or NOT to do would be very helpful from experienced rebuilders. I've heard that pulling the crank before removing the rotor can make life difficult later, things like that.

Anyways, I'm very very appreciative of any and all help from you guys. I look forward to updated this and learning a lot in the process. I'm excited that I've got a good project to keep my hands busy this winter.

Thanks for having me and I look forward to our interactions!

Andy

[NikonAndy]

Just got out of the garage. Tank resealed and curing (por 15) and I got the rest of the fairing off and pulled the engine. Got it sitting up on my bench now for easy access to tear apart. I'll post a couple pics tomorrow of the progress from tonight.

[Gs500fmrex]

Hi Andy , looking good and sounds exiting! Can't wait for more updates 

[BockinBboy]

Welcome!

Heads up on the '04 yellow plastics... that's the only year with that color for the F model bikes, so they tend to be a little more sought after.  Depending on the condition and your plans, you may consider selling or trading them on the forum if you are going to paint or chop them anyway. 



- Bboy

[NikonAndy]

Welcome!

Heads up on the '04 yellow plastics... that's the only year with that color for the F model bikes, so they tend to be a little more sought after.  Depending on the condition and your plans, you may consider selling or trading them on the forum if you are going to paint or chop them anyway. 



- Bboy

Thanks for the heads up. Yeah, I'll most likely be selling all the plastics. I really have no interest in that look. Wasn't planning on chopping them up, just ebay or something. But good idea trying to get rid of them here first.

[NikonAndy]

Ok, here's a bit of the update from last night. Apparently I didn't get out of the garage til 2am. I'm feeling it today...

Before going at the engine, I started the process of por 15 on the fuel tank. I had found some rust and sludge in it a couple days ago and the $45 kit from Westco Paints seemed to be the best option. Well that was the most exhausting process ever. The GS500 tank doesn't drain fully without a lot of excessing back and forth shaking and then ultimately heat gunning to dry out. Fortunately I hung in there and got the job done.

Got me thinking on the tank though, I think I'm going to wire brush the paint off and go with a brushed steel look under clear coat. Could be cool... Maybe photoshop testing is my friend though.

Inbetween / after Por 15 work I started the process of dropping the engine out.



This next image here you can see where my brilliant skateboard engine dolly was a bad choice. Though only about a 3 inch drop, I had the engine sitting, turned to get the bench ready and heard the motor slowly fall over. Broke a top fin clean off. I guess I could jb weld it or something?

I managed to get the crankbolt out of the front of the generator before pulling the engine, which is why the cover is off already. I didn't want to have to spin that bolt out without resistance on the table.


Well that's the update. Thanks everyone for popping by!

[yamahonkawazuki]

So far so good  

[NikonAndy]

Got her cracked open and found the problem!
One of the connecting rods is overheating. Worn bearing. Anyone know of a good spot to get replacement parts for that? I'm in Seattle if that matters...

[dB-tje]

So far so good  

My words

[NikonAndy]

So far so good  

My words

Thanks!

[codajastal]

Got her cracked open and found the problem!
One of the connecting rods is overheating. Worn bearing. Anyone know of a good spot to get replacement parts for that? I'm in Seattle if that matters...

adidasguy may be the best source of help for you. He is the Seattle Parts Whore

[NikonAndy]

Thanks for the tip, good to have locals around with knowledge and parts

I actually just picked up a replacement rod on eBay for $22. Could see the code stamp on it, so I'll have to wait til it gets in to order new crankpins to match.

[BockinBboy]

You would be wise to contact adidasguy sooner than later... he stocks more parts than any dealer would, and has more GS500s in his stable than a Suzuki dealer... operates on trading system more than anything... trade your wrench time,  parts, beers, etc.. for things you need on your bike... whether that's another person's helping hand or other parts. Located in West Seattle. 

http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?action=profile;u=11426

- Bboy

[NikonAndy]

You would be wise to contact adidasguy sooner than later... he stocks more parts than any dealer would, and has more GS500s in his stable than a Suzuki dealer... operates on trading system more than anything... trade your wrench time,  parts, beers, etc.. for things you need on your bike... whether that's another person's helping hand or other parts. Located in West Seattle. 

http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?action=profile;u=11426

- Bboy

Awesome, thanks Bboy, I'll give him a shout.

[NikonAndy]

Update:

Cracked the crankcase yesterday. Found discoloration and slight warping on one connecting rod and crankpin bearing. That'll be the main source of my knock, I believe. Everything else looks pretty good. I also found no noticeable metal shavings in the case, so nothing had busted off. I've ordered my connecting rod and once that comes in I'll grab the stamp code to get the new bearings.

Pics!



Here's the discoloration:

[yamahonkawazuki]

yup. she ran hot. job well done sir job well done. the photos besides documenting your adventure into this nüthaus. will also assist you in reassembling her. theres one other thing. once reaasembled to spec, ive run soybean oil as a breakin, for maybe 20 minutes, at idle, then changed and flushed. not necessary at all really. but id fill her to spec, run it a bit, and change that. then proceed with new engine breakin procedure.

[NikonAndy]

yup. she ran hot. job well done sir job well done. the photos besides documenting your adventure into this nüthaus. will also assist you in reassembling her. theres one other thing. once reaasembled to spec, ive run soybean oil as a breakin, for maybe 20 minutes, at idle, then changed and flushed. not necessary at all really. but id fill her to spec, run it a bit, and change that. then proceed with new engine breakin procedure.

Interesting, what does the soybean oil help do? Better lubtication at low speeds?

[yamahonkawazuki]

I had used it in place of engine oil. to run it for a few minutes. mainly a test. nothing more. cause it will disiteggrate after a few minutes and be all but worthless. ( plus it acts err it mainly flushes the engine out as well. after than I put its break in oil in. its not necessary. but I did this on the advice of one mf my mmi instructors. who had decades of experience. ( and several patents under his name. ( he wa Charlie cavallo.) one of those folks I didn't doubt what he said. like I said its nto necessary, but it does work.

[NikonAndy]

I had used it in place of engine oil. to run it for a few minutes. mainly a test. nothing more. cause it will disiteggrate after a few minutes and be all but worthless. ( plus it acts err it mainly flushes the engine out as well. after than I put its break in oil in. its not necessary. but I did this on the advice of one mf my mmi instructors. who had decades of experience. ( and several patents under his name. ( he wa Charlie cavallo.) one of those folks I didn't doubt what he said. like I said its nto necessary, but it does work.

Interesting. Thanks for the tip.

[NikonAndy]

Update:

Got my new crankpin bearings ordered and on the way, should have all my bearings and connecting rod stuff by Wednesday. Then I'll have to find the time to actually install them.

Now on to the frustration.

I started reassembly of the motor to get a headstart so I'll have to all but drop in the crank when my parts are in. I STUPIDLY decided it was necessary (for some unknown reason I'll leave to garage craziness, the illness I get after hours hovering over an engine) to pull the magneto flywheel rotor dohicky. Ok cool, dropped a spacer rod in used a gear puller to start pulling against the pin and theoretically pull off the wheel. Whelp. That backfired right in my face. The pin got wedged in and I can't get the f*ing thing out. I've started to try and drill it out and chip it out and it's just more stuck now. BTW the glue on the magnets are nearly all off, so I didn't think it would be a horrible idea to pull off and try to repair or replace. Thing now is, I've got that metal chunk now basically fused in the bolt hole and can't get the wheel off the crank either. I've also managed to do some bits of damage to the threading. I found the cool little tutorial about using a metric bolt to work it out, but too much good info too late. I'm so frustrated I could drink a beer. Maybe two! Ugh.

Anyways, I'll be taking it to a buddy's shop hopefully sometime this week to pry that thing off using some form of thermal expansion or small explosives, or a combination.

It looks like I need a new rotor now If you have any knowledge on where to get one, it would be much appreciated. If I can't find one, I may have to drop my current one off at a machine shop to rethread and make sure it's somewhat balanced, unless that's gonna cost more than a new crank.

Lemme know if you know where to find one, I've also posted to the WANTED section of the forum: http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=65780.0