Bought my first motorcycle!

[philipthegr8]

Hi guys,

I just bought my first motorcycle a couple weeks ago, a 2007 GS500f, and I wanted to first off say thank you to all the active members of this community, as I've been able to learn a lot through you guys about the bike, potential problems, as well as how to do maintenance. I'm only 18 and hoping to become more mechanically minded, so you guys have been a big help.

I have:

Changed the brake fluid and bled the brakes, replaced the air filter with a reusable one, tightened the chain, taken apart the carburetors to examine the jets, changed the oil, and put in new plugs. Honestly the bike runs pretty well, although it's really hard to start on cold mornings.

I was worried that the bike was running lean because of the popping I was hearing at low rpms, and the general sluggishness of the engine. But after I took apart the carbs and put in new plugs (probably didn't need to I know) and adjusted the idle screw it seems better, but I still get some popping on deceleration (Which I have read is normal, correct me if it isn't)

Anyhow this is my first post and I just wanted to know if you guys had any general tips or anything in particular to say about the gs500f.

I actually had one concern: The bike has had I think 2 other owners, and it only has 10k miles on it. I have done a lot of preventative maintenance and I'm hoping the previous owners at least took decent care of it, can I expect the bike to at least make it to 30 or 40 thousand miles?

Also do you think I should bother checking the valve clearances?

Sorry if all the stuff I've asked is on other threads, I just wanted to include everything in one post. I appreciate it guys.

[Falcon01]

Congratulations on the new ride.  You're going to love it.  With proper maintenance it should go well beyond 30k-40k miles.  You should definitely check the valves.  My 09 just turned over 10k miles and was getting a little hard to start.  I did my first valve check and found 3 out 4 to be out of spec.  Changed out the shims and it runs like new. 

Congrats and enjoy your new ride. 

[robfriedenberger]

Depending on how much you ride and how long it wouldn't be a bad idea to get a battery tender, check your shims  as suggested by Falcon01. Honestly it sounds like you got a really good handle on it,  I picked my gs up for $1000 a few months ago with 8,xxx on the chicken with 2 owners, any time there is a PO you will find some surprises and some issues with maintenance but if your under 10 K its going to be fine. Idle should be roughly around 1,200 rpm any ~100-200 rpm.

although it's really hard to start on cold mornings.

Dose it not want to turn over?
Really slow to spin? - You can use a DMM to check voltage while starting if it dips blow 10 you might be looking at a new battery.
Starter winding up ? Check this video out - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hXQk6_dg_c4


The bikes from factory are lean so popping can be an issue also if you put a K&N in its going to be less restrictive thus causing a lean condition, you might want to re-jet.

[philipthegr8]

Thanks Falcon, I've actually got the same blue/white color scheme you've got! 

I should probably get the valves checked out then, I really wanna be on top of the maintenance for this bike because the insurance for this thing is so much better than car insurance for me, I wanna make sure it lasts.

One day it actually started and then died on me, the engine started for about a second then died. I was thinking that maybe the bike isn't getting enough gas to keep the bike running, so I thought maybe the pilot jet was clogged but the carbs were completely clean. I recharged the battery and right now I rigged up a trickle charge thing so I can just plug in the battery whenever I come home.

I have read that in other forums as well, that it runs lean. so I can just switch out the pilot jets for a size larger? I'm not planning on making any modifications to the bike.


Thank you guys for all your help!

[robfriedenberger]

I really am not trying to be offensive with this post these bikes are not fuel injected, so are you using the choke when you start it? How long do you let it idle for before you ride? What is the RPM when at idle?

[cWj]

search "k&n air filter restrictor". Consider using that or rejetting. OR use a regular filter - you can dip them in gasoline a for a few cycles to clean them.

Make sure you read the wiki section on upgrades - there are already suggested jet sizes recommended for certain filters, or experiment at your leisure.

Welcome to the jungle. We've got fun and games.

[RichDesmond]

...I have read that in other forums as well, that it runs lean. so I can just switch out the pilot jets for a size larger? I'm not planning on making any modifications to the bike.

Definitely go up one size on the pilots. When you inspected the carbs, did you pull the fuel screws out? (They're hidden under a cover that has to be drilled out) If those passages are dirty at all it will make the bike hard to start.

[BockinBboy]

Sounds like the bike having a lean mixture is probably causing your hard to start issue when its cold.  This 'could' be due to the new air filter - make sure you use the restrictor - and a simple rejet on the pilot and main jets will improve your cold start and throttle response. Contact board member 'The Buddha' for his rejet kit, and let him know your intake, exhaust, and riding location... he can set you up with a cheap and easy kit nearly anyone can do with great success. The previous posters have touched on it, but to reinforce a little bit there on the valves.  If you were to rejet, and if tight exhaust valves are the source of your hard to start issues... the rejet will mask it for awhile, maybe even enough to end up with a broken exhaust valve before you knew it.  If you don't feel you can do the valve check at this time, its okay, have a shop do it the first time for you and maybe next time the valve check interval comes up you will be able to do it.



- Bboy

[gsJack]

.....................I actually had one concern: The bike has had I think 2 other owners, and it only has 10k miles on it. I have done a lot of preventative maintenance and I'm hoping the previous owners at least took decent care of it, can I expect the bike to at least make it to 30 or 40 thousand miles?

Also do you think I should bother checking the valve clearances?.....................

30 or 40K miles is just nicely broken in unless it was seriously abused by a previous owner.  Bought my 97 new and put 80k miles on it and bought my 02 in 03 with 4k miles on it and it turned over 100k miles last summer.  Never touched the carbs on either bike and have used oem air filters all the way.  Never removed the caps over the idle mix screws.

Valve clearances should be checked on a used bike as on a new one not too long after you get it.  But if you have cold compression the valves are not affecting your starting, tight valves can.  Bikes in general are hard starting when cold, at least the 6 carbureted ones I've had have been.  Riding year around here in NE Ohio in temps down to 20F I've jumped all of them to start a time or 2 every winter.

[radodrill]

I have read that in other forums as well, that it runs lean. so I can just switch out the pilot jets for a size larger? I'm not planning on making any modifications to the bike.

When I got my 500F a few months ago I found the power to be flat on the top end and it didn't feel like a very spirited ride.  I installed a K&N drop-in filter without the restrictor ring while still using the stock exhaust and re-jetted for optimum performance.  I settled on a 20 pilot, 60 starter, 142.5 main, 1 washer under the needles, and 2.5 turns on the mixture screws.

As said before, definitely check/adjust your valves first to make sure they're in spec.

[philipthegr8]

I really am not trying to be offensive with this post these bikes are not fuel injected, so are you using the choke when you start it? How long do you let it idle for before you ride? What is the RPM when at idle?

Yeah I'm using full choke to start the bike, and I usually let it idle for about a minute before I start going. The idle is at about 1300, but it is a bit erratic when the bike is a bit cold, like when I'm sitting at a stoplight.

Definitely go up one size on the pilots. When you inspected the carbs, did you pull the fuel screws out? (They're hidden under a cover that has to be drilled out) If those passages are dirty at all it will make the bike hard to start.
[/quote]

Gotcha, thanks for the tip! When I inspected the carbs I actually only pulled out the jets and inspected the float bowls. I didn't check out the fuel screws :/ I prolly shoulda done that as well... I mean the carbs were absolutely spotless because I thought a pilot jet was initially clogged but it looks like the bike was ridden constantly so there wasn't any kind of build up. I'm hoping a carb sync and a valve clearance check will clear up some of the issues, and that it's nothing more. It seems like what people are saying about the bike being hard to start and being linked to out of spec valves is right.. That's about the only thing I haven't checked, and I've run some redline fuel additive through a tank which should have helped if anything.


I popped in a reusable filter that should be performing the same function I think... Sorry I should have clarified that the lean mixture was already happening before I popped in the filter.

OR use a regular filter - you can dip them in gasoline a for a few cycles to clean them.

Sounds like the bike having a lean mixture is probably causing your hard to start issue when its cold.  This 'could' be due to the new air filter - make sure you use the restrictor - and a simple rejet on the pilot and main jets will improve your cold start and throttle response. Contact board member 'The Buddha' for his rejet kit, and let him know your intake, exhaust, and riding location... he can set you up with a cheap and easy kit nearly anyone can do with great success. The previous posters have touched on it, but to reinforce a little bit there on the valves.  If you were to rejet, and if tight exhaust valves are the source of your hard to start issues... the rejet will mask it for awhile, maybe even enough to end up with a broken exhaust valve before you knew it.  If you don't feel you can do the valve check at this time, its okay, have a shop do it the first time for you and maybe next time the valve check interval comes up you will be able to do it.



- Bboy

I am hoping the tight valves are a reason for the hard to start symptom.. The battery is a bit on the weak side but I think it could last more than 2 years (It's from mid 2012). A reusable air filter wouldn't cause problems would it? if anything the bike has been running slightly better with it (it's one of those foam ones that you coat with oil).
At this point I am thinking of bringing it into a shop, they're asking 200 bucks for a valve check and carb sync (Do you think that is reasonable?) as i've torn into the carbs twice already and I kinda don't want to do that anytime soon, although I'm very comfortable with my bike now! 

Thank you for the advice! 

30 or 40K miles is just nicely broken in unless it was seriously abused by a previous owner.  Bought my 97 new and put 80k miles on it and bought my 02 in 03 with 4k miles on it and it turned over 100k miles last summer.  Never touched the carbs on either bike and have used oem air filters all the way.  Never removed the caps over the idle mix screws.

Valve clearances should be checked on a used bike as on a new one not too long after you get it.  But if you have cold compression the valves are not affecting your starting, tight valves can.  Bikes in general are hard starting when cold, at least the 6 carbureted ones I've had have been.  Riding year around here in NE Ohio in temps down to 20F I've jumped all of them to start a time or 2 every winter.

Woah that's a lot of miles, i'm hoping this thing will last me for that long! I'm already kind of bored of Front-wheel drive and lazy engines, so I'm onto motorcycles for good hopefully
The bike only has 10k miles, and I'm assuming they did oil changes at reasonable intervals. I'm just broke as hell right now after a motorcycle and still keeping my car and paying for insurance (2006 black scion tc 5-speed, would be wonderful if it were rwd..)

Anyhow I appreciate your input, that high mileage is definitely something I'm aspiring to! 

When I got my 500F a few months ago I found the power to be flat on the top end and it didn't feel like a very spirited ride.  I installed a K&N drop-in filter without the restrictor ring while still using the stock exhaust and re-jetted for optimum performance.  I settled on a 20 pilot, 60 starter, 142.5 main, 1 washer under the needles, and 2.5 turns on the mixture screws.

As said before, definitely check/adjust your valves first to make sure they're in spec.
[/quote]

Ahhh gotcha, what year is yours? I'm not planning on changing the exhaust or the air filter to k&n, and I'm assuming the gs500f gets enough fuel to keep it healthy? I'm a bit hesitant about messing with the mixture screws. I'm not sure how fast the bike is supposed to accelerate, but I do notice a little bit of hesitation at low rpms (like around 2), but I'm assuming/hoping that's normal. Valves will be checked hopefully very soon! I want to be on top of my game for this motorcycle, I have babied my car since now and I plan to do the same for my bike 

I appreciate the input!

[adidasguy]

Weak battery = problems. Not fun when the battery suddenly dies. Lots of parts can be stretch until they fail but batteries are so important for starting that I always want a good one in my bikes (and I never need battery tenders, either)

Get a new one. Bikes are hard to start when voltage is low. Remember low voltage = less spark.
If you have to use a battery tender - then you need a new battery. Don't go cheap. Get a sealed battery at a minimum and if you can, a Shorai LiFe battery.

Plugs: If old, just get new ones. They're cheap. Iridium at a minimum. I've started to like PowerMadd plugs for cold weather (better starting) and Brisk for warmer (45* and above) due to overall better performance.
always have a clean spare set of some kind of plug. If they get fouled for some reason, easy to swap in a new pair to get you going again.

[radodrill]

When I got my 500F a few months ago I found the power to be flat on the top end and it didn't feel like a very spirited ride.  I installed a K&N drop-in filter without the restrictor ring while still using the stock exhaust and re-jetted for optimum performance.  I settled on a 20 pilot, 60 starter, 142.5 main, 1 washer under the needles, and 2.5 turns on the mixture screws.

As said before, definitely check/adjust your valves first to make sure they're in spec.

Ahhh gotcha, what year is yours? I'm not planning on changing the exhaust or the air filter to k&n, and I'm assuming the gs500f gets enough fuel to keep it healthy? I'm a bit hesitant about messing with the mixture screws. I'm not sure how fast the bike is supposed to accelerate, but I do notice a little bit of hesitation at low rpms (like around 2), but I'm assuming/hoping that's normal. Valves will be checked hopefully very soon! I want to be on top of my game for this motorcycle, I have babied my car since now and I plan to do the same for my bike 

It's a 2009 that I picked up with 2678 miles on it.  It's a known fact that the GS500 is jetted quite lean from the factory; thus even with the stock air filter and stock exhaust a rejet is beneficial.  In fact, the less than expected performance (due to leanness) is what prompted me to rejet; I just decided to put in a less restrictive filter while I was at it.  After rejetting it had the performance I was looking for when I bought the bike

[Joolstacho]

Goodonya Phil. You're doing all the right things.
You've got a lot of useful suggestions...
BUT... I wouldn't assume the starting prob is a major issue such as valve clearances or jetting.

Don't expect much power at 2000rpm mate, (it's not a Super Rocket!) it should be smooth going through 2000, but these engines like REVS! Don't expect to whack the throttle open at 2000rpm, it'll falter and feel 'flat'.

+1 Good battery as addidasguy says.
Drain the floatbowls before you start it -dead easy to do, and you'll know the carbs are full of fresh fuel (or possibly the PO has had stale fuel in it - sitting for some time - you could drain the tank and put in fresh fuel). Would be great if there was someone close to you who knows about bikes to drop around and listen to it running, -you'll hear the clearances if they are out.

BTW I can't find ANY proof that Iridium sparkplugs actually PERFORM any better than standard ones. A lot of people are wasting money buying them. They were originally designed NOT to produce better sparks, but to last longer between changes (Which they do). They were developed for V6 cars like the Camry, where you had to remove the manifolds to replace the plugs on the rear cylinder bank (pain).

[adidasguy]

Jool: As for plugs, we have all the proof we need here in West Seattle. With a dozen GS500's or more around here, and 5 types of plugs we have personally swapped plugs and seen differences.
Some are better in warm weather, some start better in the cold, one premium plug is crap.
The 5 plugs we swap in and out and have tested and compared are: Standard NGK. Iridium NGK. PowerMadd. Brisk. Pulstar.
The comparisons are for some other thread but just letting you know that WE find a difference through testing and comparing performance in many many different GS500's.
If you feel no difference in plugs, that is OK.

[philipthegr8]

Goodonya Phil. You're doing all the right things.
You've got a lot of useful suggestions...
BUT... I wouldn't assume the starting prob is a major issue such as valve clearances or jetting.

Thanks bud I appreciate the support. I'm just a bit paranoid since it's my first big purchase on my own  and I really don't wanna see it go to shite 

The bike definitely likes being revved high, I've noticed that as well but I was thinking something was abnormal when it wasn't really responding too well at around 2 (Guess i'm too used to manual transmission where I start getting friction zone at just about 1 rpm)


Also I put a Uni foam filter on the bike, and I had some other guy in another group tell me that this could lean out the mixture.. I don't understand though, the bike is actually running better with the filter and it fits into the original airbox and it's not a k&n.. I also couldn't find anything about foam filters leaning out a mixture online. Any input would be appreciated.

Weak battery = problems. Not fun when the battery suddenly dies. Lots of parts can be stretch until they fail but batteries are so important for starting that I always want a good one in my bikes (and I never need battery tenders, either)

Get a new one. Bikes are hard to start when voltage is low. Remember low voltage = less spark.
If you have to use a battery tender - then you need a new battery. Don't go cheap. Get a sealed battery at a minimum and if you can, a Shorai LiFe battery.

Thanks bro! The battery doesn't look like an expensive one. I'll take your advice and buy a quality one, once my budget allows 


my bank account has $1.73, so I really couldn't help but buy a bike as soon as I had the money 

[Joolstacho]

Addidas... cool, -it wasn't my intention to rubbish other people's experience... I have plenty of respect for the work you're doing.
It's good that people find various solutions that work for them. I was just wanting to get the point across that expensive iridium plugs are not NECESSARILY any better than normal plugs in terms of performance. -I am very aware of the 'expensive=must be better' syndrome. I worked in marketing for many years where we used to laugh our fun bags off at consumer's ignorance about this sort of thing. -How easy it was to make a killing using very dubious claims. Oils is another case in point, where bike shops charge ludicrous amounts of money for products are just car oils with special 'motorcycle' labelling.

[BockinBboy]

A lot of good comments sprinkled throughout this thread. 

The Unifoam filter... I really can't say one way or the other on it, but I have read a lot of mixed things about them on the forum, including that they may be more hi flowing... I don't really know about that one, but I just steer clear of it myself.  The ones I KNOW to steer clear from are the HI Flo filters, everyone gets their mixture messed up with those.

You could try taping over half of the air filter's hole to restrict some air flow and see if that helps... or just use your hand (but can be hard with the tank on)... or some people shove a sock or something in it... if the idle improves, you know the filter is too free flowing at idle for your current jetting... that's provided you know there aren't any other mixture issues such as an air leak.   

- Bboy

[philipthegr8]

The Unifoam filter... I really can't say one way or the other on it, but I have read a lot of mixed things about them on the forum, including that they may be more hi flowing... I don't really know about that one, but I just steer clear of it myself.  The ones I KNOW to steer clear from are the HI Flo filters, everyone gets their mixture messed up with those.

Appreciate the input, thanks! I'm not intending on making any modifications to the bike, so I'm hoping to not rejet the bike. I mean there's some popping on deceleration but after I put on a new filter and adjusted the idle mixture screw the bike has been a lot more responsive at lower rpms. As long as I'm not at risk for overheating.. honestly that's the only thing I'm worried about.

I see.. Although I would've thought that the filter itself wouldn't cause that much of an issue, due to the fact that it just replaces the paper filter's spot in the airbox. The bike sounds a lot healthier, but I'm not sure what the symptoms are of the bike running lean at high rpm? It seems to pull nicely and respond to however much I need to accelerate. I'm a big fan of preventative maintenance, but also not touching something unless it's broken.. Seems kind of contradictory but somehow it works out for me   

The bike has a very lean idle circuit which I've noticed, but high-end power is fine, right? As in I am probably ok with not changing the main jets, as they spray enough fuel to keep the engine running well? Sorry I'm a bit paranoid about all this stuff, I'm expecting this bike to last me a long time! Any other help is greatly appreciated 

[radodrill]

The bike has a very lean idle circuit which I've noticed, but high-end power is fine, right? As in I am probably ok with not changing the main jets, as they spray enough fuel to keep the engine running well? Sorry I'm a bit paranoid about all this stuff, I'm expecting this bike to last me a long time! Any other help is greatly appreciated 

With the stock jetting the bike will run just fine for many miles (gsJack is over 100K miles on his).  On the other hand, a rejet does give a noticeable increase in performance.  It all comes down to personal preference and riding style.  If you're happy with the way it behaves, leave it; if you want peak performance, you can rejet.