What's this sound?

[Jimbob]

On another note, what is the easiest way to save the oil? I have a oil drain pan but it was had old car oil in it and didn't to to contaminate the oil I put back in the bike and there is not enough clearance to get a bottle and funnel under it

Ps the oil drain pan is a sealed type so can't be cleaned

Pps maybe I'll stop being a cheap skate and go buy another one

[Jimbob]

Oh and also where would be a good place in aus to get the bolt and spacer required to separate them?

[gsJack]

So when I was working on yesterday that magnet assembly could move towards or away from me but the big sprocket had some movement towards and away from me should that move?

Mine was the same way and it's probably as it should be.  The hub of that big gear behind the rotor is the inner member of the starter clutch.  After the starter spins the engine and it starts and speeds away from the starter and the starter stops turning that gear just sits there stopped with the starter motor while the crankshaft spins inside it up to 11k rpm.  There is a sizable hole in the crank shoulder under the gear to supply plenty of lubrication between the gear hub and crank and for the other clutch parts.  Notice the twin intermediate gears between the starter shaft and the big clutch gear, the one engaging the clutch gear is wider than the others to accommodate the lateral movement of the big gear on the clutch hub. I think mine moved about a mm in and out.

[Jimbob]

So which part on yours was lose that was causing the noise? I assumed the 3 bolts that I thought you were referring to held the big gear onto the hub?

[gsJack]

No, the big gear and the hub are one part.  The 3 bolts hold the outer part of the sprag type clutch to the back of the rotor.  The outer part of the clutch is the loose ratling part.  The gear with hub remains free on the crank shaft contained by the rotor/outer clutch part assembly that is held tight on the crank taper by the center bolt.

[Jimbob]

Is there anyway I can tell if it's lose without remove the large bolt?

[gsJack]

Is there anyway I can tell if it's lose without remove the large bolt?

Based on my own experience Jimbob I'd say not for certain.  I first checked mine right after the knock started and it seemed to be tight and the big bolt holding the rotor on was tight so I buttoned it up and went on to check the top end and then the right side and after some time with more running time on the engine I opened the left side again and the clutch outer member was then obviously loose and I went ahead to repair it.

Your choice at this point, you can button it up and run it some more and see what happens or you can go ahead and pull the rotor and make sure that it is or is not the problem.  If I had it to do over I'd pull the rotor the first time in, would have saved a lot of time and work in the long run.  Your last video sounds like my loose starter clutch did but I've been wrong before on noises as most have.

[Jimbob]

Ok I'll pull it off once I get a spacer from somewhere... What length bolt do I need?
Just to confirm it is the 3 Allen key bolts on the back?

Thanks for your help so far

[gsJack]

I used a 14mmx1.5x45mm bolt like Adidas said in his video.  Was hard to find a bolt with the 1.5 pitch, they all had that diameter but not that fine of a pitch.  One member used a Honda Civic oil drain plug which had the right thread and posted a picture of it so I guess the bolt could vary a bit from the specified length.

http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=67148.msg809741#msg809741

I found a 3/8" dia carriage bolt with a long shank and cut the 36 mm spacer from that with a hack saw.  Yes, the 3 Allen key bolts (socket head capscrews) are on the back and you'll see them as soon as you pull the rotor.  Here's a picture of mine a bit chewed up but not broken off yet as others have found.

[Jimbob]

Is there any reason we can use a spacer and use the original bolt to remove it?

[gsJack]

The bolt holding the rotor on is a smaller 12 mm bolt that goes thru a clearance hole in the rotor and threads into the crank and wouldn't pull the rotor.  There is a 14 mm thread in the rotor clearance hole to accommodate the special 14 mm rotor puller bolt.  You need the rotor puller bolt and 36 mm long spacer unless the rotor is already loose on the crankshaft taper.

[ohgood]

Here is a new video so you can hear it a bit better

http://youtu.be/96Ajlpk36jg

that sure sounds like an exhaust leak to me

[Jimbob]

Does the spacer need to be a certain diameter?

[Jimbob]

Oh I noticed you said 3/8 so about 9mm?

[Jimbob]

So after checking a number of things I took it to the mechanic he had it for a day and said it's the counter balancer shaft. Is this worth repairing? I understand it's very involved

[gsJack]

So after checking a number of things I took it to the mechanic he had it for a day and said it's the counter balancer shaft. Is this worth repairing? I understand it's very involved

Could be that's it Jimbob but I'd at least pull the right side cover to check it for myself before deciding what to do.  Repair of that will be a big job if it's repairable at all.  Here's a video from adidasguy showing what to check under right side cover.  I checked mine like shown before I returned to the left side to find and fix the starter clutch knock.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Atq4nKfh7kg

From his thread on Repairing Junior:

http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=60331.msg695096#msg695096

[Jimbob]

So if that part does rattle like in the video whst does it indicate?

[Jimbob]

I really appreciate all your help so far

[Jimbob]

is it this part that I'm moving that is not suppose to move? http://youtu.be/SCXN76yqPik

[bombsquad83]

Your video is private so we can't see it.