Bike will not go over 5000 rpm and wont go higher than 50 mph please help!

[Speedfreak14]

Was riding to work one morning and was doing 90 or 80 for a good portion of it. Because i was late =/ and them suddenly the motor feels like it running outta gas. And wont rev higher than 5 grand and wont go faster than 50. It has no power. I had issue before with cheepo shims breaking in the valve bucket so i put some bigger shims in its place. I road it and it was fine. Then i do this and it causees this huge issue. I tried checking the valve shims again but they were in tacked. Idk what else it could be. The bike dont seem to wanna stay on it will die and act shitty. I can turn it on and keep the rpms up and it wi ride but not without this terrible clanking sound =/ idk whats goin on. Did this motor jus give out on me? Any help appreciated.

[Speedfreak14]

http://youtu.be/DEfkU0xiok4
Here is a link to what sound it is making

[Speedfreak14]

Would the motor even run if there was a damaged valve? Cuz it still dose. Pleeaaasse help!

[JAS6377]

It may not be a damaged valve. It could just be out of spec. Though, having a shim break could be catastrophic. In any event, bigger shims /= better running motor, unless the specs were too loose. I'd say full valve check/adjustment to start, then work on isolating some kind of fuel starvation (in-line filter, clogged tank vents, etc.) Try running it on prime. That'll tell you if it's a petcock vacuum issue. If it's an E model, I know there's a little vacuum tube that can catch cross wind and cause issues. Hopefully someone can offer more enlightenment on that specific subject.

Edit: It's probably not fuel starvation, after rereading your post and listening to the video. I'd pop the valve cover and inspect the buckets, cams, and cam chain for damage, then do a valve adjustment.

[Speedfreak14]

So did a compression test today on both cylinders. Bothcame up as 155-160 psi. Within manufacture specs. So compression is still good. Witch makes me feel tons better but now im at a loss now. Would having in propper shims cause this? I know the left and right exaust valves are tight but i had smaller shims in those than i did in the intake valves. Then i switched valve shims from intake to exaust and it seems the same (it was an experiment to see if there was any change. Nothing changed) i am at a loss at what it could be next. Any ideas? I dont believe its anything to do with fuel. Although when i turn the choke on it dont do anything.

[The Buddha]

You losing 1 cylinder ? See if both exhausts get hot. If you're losing 1 cyl, it may be a bad crank trigger.

If the topping out rpm depends on the gear you're in - as in 7k in 1st, 6k in 2nd, 5k in 3rd and so on - then its a rip in a diaphragm.

Cool.
Buddha.

[gsJack]

It's a 06 GSF so there is only one crank trigger (pickup).  Could be bad coil or a loose spark plug wire in one coil.  5000 rpm and 50 mph max sounds like one cylinder performance, I could only get mine up to 45-50 mph on one cylinder with loose plug wire.  If it's a carb problem see Buddha, I don't do carbs cause mine don't need done.   

[Speedfreak14]

But what about that clanking sound? Would the crank trigger cause that sound? And where is the crank trigger located? And it keeps the rpms througout the gears. It will go to 5k in all gears. No higher. And in 6th it tops at 5 or so thousand rpm and 50 is pretty much top. Would a voltage meter work to check voltage or hook up the spark plug to the wire and check for spark? In case it be the coil?

You losing 1 cylinder ? See if both exhausts get hot. If you're losing 1 cyl, it may be a bad crank trigger.

If the topping out rpm depends on the gear you're in - as in 7k in 1st, 6k in 2nd, 5k in 3rd and so on - then its a rip in a diaphragm.

Cool.
Buddha.

[gsJack]

The crank trigger aka pickup is called the signal generator by Suzuki and is located on the right side of the crankshaft under the small round cover held on by 3 small bolts but would not seem to be your problem in this case.

Check for engine running on one cylinder only by pulling plug wire off of one plug at a time while at idle and see if engine dies.  If engine dies pulling wire off one side but keeps running when pulling wire off other side it's running on one cylinder.  Then check for spark on both sides to see if it's the issue by pulling plug and holding against head with plug wire on and cranking.

Check to see if plug wire are tight in the coils.  The plug wires are screwed into the coils and bonded tightly in place and sold as a unit.  If you can turn a wire in the coil with you hand then it will eventually misfire.  Your problem could be as simple as a loose plug wire in a coil. 

Running on one cylinder can also be caused by a carb issue.

I'd get those aftermarket shims out of there if you have already had a broken one.  A couple  members have recently reported serious engine damage caused by a broken shim so there are some bad ones out there coming from somewhere.  OEM shims while a bit pricey could be the best value in the long run, much less costly than engine replacements.   

[Speedfreak14]

The bike wont stay on long enough for me to do those tests. It seems to shut off almost immediately. I will deff try though. I also heard that if the spark plugs are really fouled out it could cause issues. Mine were pretty bad so imma try cleaning em a little jus to see if it makes any kind of difference. I will deff check the coil though. And i have had a shim break in my bike before. Scoffed up the cam lobe a litttle on the right intake and messed up the valve bucket a little. But i didnt think it was a large problem. The bucket seemed like it would spinn as easy as it did before. Could this be an issue? Cuz i had put another shim into it when the first shim broke and it worked fine until now and my current problems.

The crank trigger aka pickup is called the signal generator by Suzuki and is located on the right side of the crankshaft under the small round cover held on by 3 small bolts but would not seem to be your problem in this case.

Check for engine running on one cylinder only by pulling plug wire off of one plug at a time while at idle and see if engine dies.  If engine dies pulling wire off one side but keeps running when pulling wire off other side it's running on one cylinder.  Then check for spark on both sides to see if it's the issue by pulling plug and holding against head with plug wire on and cranking.

Check to see if plug wire are tight in the coils.  The plug wires are screwed into the coils and bonded tightly in place and sold as a unit.  If you can turn a wire in the coil with you hand then it will eventually misfire.  Your problem could be as simple as a loose plug wire in a coil. 

Running on one cylinder can also be caused by a carb issue.

I'd get those aftermarket shims out of there if you have already had a broken one.  A couple  members have recently reported serious engine damage caused by a broken shim so there are some bad ones out there coming from somewhere.  OEM shims while a bit pricey could be the best value in the long run, much less costly than engine replacements.

[Speedfreak14]

Did the cylinder tests and am almost 100% sure that they are both working. Both exauhst tubes are getting hot and when i pulled the coils off the spark plug while running they didnt turn off immediately. I believe they are both working and the plugs are igniting as well. They were kinda dirty so i cleaned them and it seemed to help a bit but still same scenario =/ im so confused right now. But at least im narrowing things down. Ugh

[gsJack]

You had a broken valve shim a while back and I'm wondering if you got all the pieces out and accounted for?  A couple other reports lately of broken aftermarket shims have resulted in serious engine damage and they are considering engine replacement.  Broken shims are serious.

Your 155-160 psi compression test results on both cylinders would indicate there is probably nothing seriously wrong mechanically with the engine so thoughts remain with possible ignition or carb issues.  I would have thought some of our carb gurus would have jumped in by now.  Fouled plugs would indicate too much oil or gas entering the cylinders and not a gas shortage problem or possibly an ignition problem of not burning the gas.

About now I'd be pulling the valve cover and signal generator covers and checking out the cam chain & tensioner, camshaft timing, valve clearances.  Any chance your rotor has sheared a pin and slipped out of time?  Your problem of 5000 rpm max engine rpm occurs just a little above the spark advance change point of 4000 rpm where timing goes from 5-12* at idle to 40* at 4k and up.

Check out camshaft/ignition timing with this:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v443/jcp8832/gs500signalgenerators_zps2134172a.jpg

I've listened to your video a number of times and don't hear any serious knocking noises, more like some valve  noises which wouldn't cause this problem.  More opinions from younger ears would be welcome here.  Did you already check out the top end like JAS6377 suggested above after listening to your video?

[Speedfreak14]

http://youtu.be/31iQamEfQfE
Here is another video of some more explanation =/ it could possibly be cam timing issues. Because the notches on the end of the cans do not face eachother when i but the r/t thingy lined up with the pickup. The clanking sound is gone now due to proper shim sizes. And well i think i killed my battery. But idk how i didnt have it on all that long and when it was it was running sorta. And oddly my choke still dont work really. Like i will turn it on but it wont rase the rpms. It will do a little something but wont do what its supposed to. May be an un related issue though idk

You had a broken valve shim a while back and I'm wondering if you got all the pieces out and accounted for?  A couple other reports lately of broken aftermarket shims have resulted in serious engine damage and they are considering engine replacement.  Broken shims are serious.

Your 155-160 psi compression test results on both cylinders would indicate there is probably nothing seriously wrong mechanically with the engine so thoughts remain with possible ignition or carb issues.  I would have thought some of our carb gurus would have jumped in by now.  Fouled plugs would indicate too much oil or gas entering the cylinders and not a gas shortage problem or possibly an ignition problem of not burning the gas.

About now I'd be pulling the valve cover and signal generator covers and checking out the cam chain & tensioner, camshaft timing, valve clearances.  Any chance your rotor has sheared a pin and slipped out of time?  Your problem of 5000 rpm max engine rpm occurs just a little above the spark advance change point of 4000 rpm where timing goes from 5-12* at idle to 40* at 4k and up.

Check out camshaft/ignition timing with this:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v443/jcp8832/gs500signalgenerators_zps2134172a.jpg

I've listened to your video a number of times and don't hear any serious knocking noises, more like some valve  noises which wouldn't cause this problem.  More opinions from younger ears would be welcome here.  Did you already check out the top end like JAS6377 suggested above after listening to your video?

[Speedfreak14]

Can i jus remove the cams and line them up propperly wit the r/t marks on the pickup and be done with it or is it much more complicated than that??

[JAS6377]

First, get that battery charged and ready to roll. A bad/dead battery will give a bike more problems than you may expect.

This may be a long shot, but have you synced the carbs?

That clicking is kind of getting to me, though. Maybe starter?

[Speedfreak14]

When i got her i took her to a shop to get the carbs rebuilt, cleaned and synced. And

First, get that battery charged and ready to roll. A bad/dead battery will give a bike more problems than you may expect. And i think the clicking is jus cuz the battery die. But idk =/ would taking the cams off with the crank adjusted to the rt mark fix the timing? Like taking them off and moving them so the notches align again? Or is it not that easy?

This may be a long shot, but have you synced the carbs?

That clicking is kind of getting to me, though. Maybe starter?

[gsJack]

............................ it could possibly be cam timing issues. Because the notches on the end of the cans do not face eachother when i but the r/t thingy lined up with the pickup. The clanking sound is gone now due to proper shim sizes.

Can i jus remove the cams and line them up propperly wit the r/t marks on the pickup and be done with it or is it much more complicated than that??

The camshaft takes 2 turns for every turn of the crankshaft so if notches are outward away from each other when on the timing mark one turn of the crank will put them inwards toward each other and that is the position for checking cam timing.

While you had the cover over the rotor off did you make sure the rotor was tight to the shaft and didn't turn?  There is a pin that locates the rotor to the crankshaft and there have been cases where the pin sheared and rotor has slipped out of time.

It's important to check these things but with your 160 psi compression in both cylinders it's not likely your valve timing is off but it could still be an ignition timing issue.  Don't be too quick to pull the cams, be sure it's necessary first.