GS500 won't start after rejet - not getting fuel

[Rideordie1113]

So I decided to rejet my bike (07 GS500F) as I was tired of the factory lean condition.

I rejetted as per all the recommendations in the rejet section (20/60/135). After getting it all put together, it won't start. I thought maybe it was due to the battery being undersized (the P.O. put the wrong one in), so I put in a fresh battery. That was not the problem.

If you give it some starting fluid, it fires right up momentarily, which I would think would mean it is not getting fuel properly.

I noticed the carb slides do not move up and down with the throttle. I thought this was my problem - that I hooked the throttle cables up backwards. After taking the carb off, I realized the butterflies move with the throttle as they are supposed to, but the slides do not. Is this normal on these carbs?

-No kinks in fuel lines
-The fuel is on under the tank

Any suggestions? I'm sure it has to be something minor, but I'm not sure where to go from here.

[Suzuki Stevo]

Did you put it in the "Prime" position and did you turn the fuel back "On" at the tank valve..the one that takes a long screwdriver, under the tank from the other side?

EDIT: OK..you did

[GS500Schultz]

the slides don't move until there is vacuum.

So while the bike is starting they will move slightly but only under throttle will they open.

also set it to prime and make sure the tank petcock is "ON" i had this problem the other day and was losing my mind lol. 

[Rideordie1113]

the slides don't move until there is vacuum.

So while the bike is starting they will move slightly but only under throttle will they open.

also set it to prime and make sure the tank petcock is "ON" i had this problem the other day and was losing my mind lol.

Thanks for the quick responses both of you.

Well..after tearing the entire thing back apart to triple check everything...

I put it back in prime, cranked for a while - it started up perfect. My only guess is that the previous battery was so dead that it wouldn't crank enough to draw enough fuel in under prime..and then after getting a new one I didn't crank on it long enough. Regardless, it's running just fine now.

My next question: I adjusted the idle way too high when I was fiddling with it because it wouldn't start.. It idled fine with the choke ON but with the choke OFF the RPMs shot off.

I turned the idle back down, now it idles fine with the choke OFF, but as soon as you turn the choke on it dies. Any ideas? Do I need to fiddle with the idle-air mixture also?

Lastly, what is the idle supposed to be set at?

EDIT: I tried adjusting  the idle air mixture screws as per this:

"
    Close both screws taking note of what the current setting are. Open them at 1 tunr out.
    Warm up engine and turn the choke off.
    Lower the idle to below 1000rpm
    Open the air screw up to the point where the engine revs don't increase anymore. Then open 1/4 of a turn more.
    Lower the idle again to below 1000 rpm
    Blip the throttle to 1/4. If the rpms dip before rising, you are too rich. If the rpms hang up and come back slow to idle, you're lean.
    Set the idle back to normal, i.e. 1200 rpms."

I ended up leaving them somewhere around 2.5-3 turns out. It seems to run fine (We have snow on the roads here, so I can't ride it to make sure). But the choke is still not working. It turns of immediately after turning the choke back, regardless of where the screws are set at. Can you install the choke cable incorrectly? 

Thanks again guys

Of topic - the verification letters are nearly impossible to read..

[J_Walker]

prime should allow the fuel to flow freely VIA gravity? I don't think it needs the vacuum line to pull fuel.

You adjust the screw one first.. then the one you adjust with your hand. you get them even, side by side.

if you look into the gate side of the carbs, they move when you turn these two screws. with the hand one backed all the way out and the screw one backed all the way out. one gate will be open and the other will be closed. adjust the screw until it starts to close up, then turn the knob, basically you're trying to get them as even as possible. towards the bottom of the carb when your adjusting them, you will see 4 tiny holes. the one closest to you, ignore. the next close one towards you, that's the one you want to basically line the very edge of the gate up with, you should BARELY still see it, like it will be finer then a needle point. if you get both gates even on that mark. you will be right at about 1,600 RPM.

from there you can put the carbs on the bike, and turn the adjustment knob to get it to idle where you like.

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