Exhaust bolts either stuck or way overtorqued to go in

[Yuri.]

I think I was having a small leak where the exhaust is attached to the header, long story short, I got new gaskets and when removing the bolts
1) Only one bolt easily went out and easily go in again
2) Another bolt went out, but even with a new bolt, it only goes completely in with a 22N.m torque (specs says to torque it 9~12N.m). New bolt was lubed.
3) Another bolt had its head rounded
4) And the last bolt got broken

I should also mention that before the stuck bolts were messed up, I tried hitting the bolts with a hammer, spraying WD40 in them and letting the engine get hot (since aluminum expands more than steel), and it didn't help.

I don't have either the tools or the expertise to remove the stuck bolts, but I'm guessing their threads are also going to be corroded, is it safe to assume I will have to request to rethread/helicoil all the threads, except one?

[iceman86]

I had exhaust header bolts get stucked and rounded on me as well before.

I believe you best options is to take your bike to a welder. Weld a nut on to the bolt and loosen it with a wrench or socket.

Using those special graded drill bits to reverse drill it out may not work (didn't for me) and it can make it worse.

I am praying for you that the threading are not messed up! And if they aren't maybe look into getting manifold stud/nut kit.

[bmf]

Wd40 is not really the best penetrating oil, something like deep creep is better. The welding idea is good. Best to disconnect your electronics before welding on the bike.
I got lucky with a vice grip on the one bolt that was still sticking out. The other I had to drill out. Quite fun. The other two the a$$hole before had drilled out but did not understand starting with a small drill and then going up sizes with left hand drills.  Long story short he had made two holes next to where the broken off bolt was.  I managed to drill the bolts out and then glue studs in place with high temp metal exhaust repair type paste.

I would install and remove the tight bolt a few times to recovrr the thread and use as is, if really necessary get a correct sized  tap and clean up the threads that way. If totally buggered you can always helicoil later, use the copper anti locking paste in future as well.

[Yuri.]

I'm almost sure the bolts/threads are like that because they were put dry in the factory itself, because the exhaust was never removed before and the bolts that I got out were really rusted and completely dry. The bike was assembled here in Brazil. It's quite weird, but I found out that it's really hard to find any kind of anti-seize around here even in a shop that specializes in selling fasteners they didn't know what I was talking about, and online I could only find in very few places imported anti-seizes, and only one, for bicycles, were sold in small amount, I'm guessing this works for what I need too, so I bought it.

I'm thinking the tools I will need to remove the bolts and repairing the threads will cost far more than just pay a shop to do it, I'll found out soon, thanks for tips though.

Oh, and I used WD40 because I really didn't have access to anything better.

I would install and remove the tight bolt a few times to recovrr the thread and use as is, if really necessary get a correct sized  tap and clean up the threads that way. If totally buggered you can always helicoil later, use the copper anti locking paste in future as well.

I did try this about three times, regreasing the bolt after every try but it didn't appear to get better, maybe I need to it a few more times?

[Toner]

There was a thread about the same problem here: 
http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=29460.0

[J_Walker]

just for future notice. its always good at least once a year to un-do an re-tighten with anti seize paste once a year. I've done this with all the bikes ive  owned, and maybe I've gotten lucky, but I've never had a problem.

[Yuri.]

There was a thread about the same problem here: 
http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=29460.0

Interesting thread, lots of info in there, thanks!

just for future notice. its always good at least once a year to un-do an re-tighten with anti seize paste once a year. I've done this with all the bikes ive  owned, and maybe I've gotten lucky, but I've never had a problem.

After this problem I'm having I will definitely be doing that.

[Yuri.]

Since this problem I haven't used my bike yet, but since the remaining bolts are one in each side, my first plan is to see if the exhaust is tight enough not be really noisy and see if the problematic bolts drop by themselves.  Both moved a little before one snapped and the other one had its head rounded. I did turn the bike on in the driveway and revved to 4000rpm, the exhaust noise appeared to be normal.
If the bolts don't drop themselves in about a month I think it will drill them out myself and rethread or helicoil the holes myself if necessary.

[bmf]

I doubt that they will drop off on their own. I'm sure you will need to remove the head to drill them. Doing them in situ is technically possible but asking for "a new hole next to the old hole " . Have you tried with a vice grip?

[Yuri.]

I doubt that they will drop off on their own. I'm sure you will need to remove the head to drill them. Doing them in situ is technically possible but asking for "a new hole next to the old hole " . Have you tried with a vice grip?

That will be the first option when I decide to drill them. As is, a vice grip can't get there.
I will remove the wheel and suspension, as I have to replace the fork seal anyways. That way I think it's managable to drill a new hole.

[Hyperion]

Sea Foam (yes, same company) makes a great Deep Penetrating foam that has never failed me.

[bmf]

It's called Deep Creep;-)

[bmf]

Yuri, remember to get left hand drills bits, it helps to unscrew the bolt while you work rather than tightening it , chances are it will unscrew before you are done.  make sure they are cobalt type to be sharp enough to do the job. But be careful, cobalt is hard but brittle, if you move the drill you can break off the bit and then life gets interesting.  I would really try the welding option first. The heat from the welding will also go a ways to losening the bolts.

[danofthejungle]

I had a similar issue on my bike, and I feel that it may have been an issue of the exhaust pipe getting bent when I was loading it up a ramp (the pipe bottomed out, and stupid me, I just pushed past which may have put pressure on the exhaust pipe which may have bent the bolt/threaded area).

[J_Walker]

I had a similar issue on my bike, and I feel that it may have been an issue of the exhaust pipe getting bent when I was loading it up a ramp (the pipe bottomed out, and stupid me, I just pushed past which may have put pressure on the exhaust pipe which may have bent the bolt/threaded area).

the headers sit inside a recess. you would have to bend the aluminum they sit inside of along side of the bolts. I doubt that they got bent that way. unless the aluminum is bent too.

[Yuri.]

Yuri, remember to get left hand drills bits, it helps to unscrew the bolt while you work rather than tightening it , chances are it will unscrew before you are done.  make sure they are cobalt type to be sharp enough to do the job. But be careful, cobalt is hard but brittle, if you move the drill you can break off the bit and then life gets interesting.  I would really try the welding option first. The heat from the welding will also go a ways to losening the bolts.

This is another rare item around here, I couldn't find ANY place selling a simple left handed drill bit set. I have right handed ones both from cobalt and titanium nitride coating, I guess I will have to use what I got.
Surely the welding option and vice grips will be the first options.


I just used the bike and the noise from the exhaust appears to be the same, just a small leak as before. I will address this problem when I have some time on my hands

[danofthejungle]

I had a similar issue on my bike, and I feel that it may have been an issue of the exhaust pipe getting bent when I was loading it up a ramp (the pipe bottomed out, and stupid me, I just pushed past which may have put pressure on the exhaust pipe which may have bent the bolt/threaded area).

the headers sit inside a recess. you would have to bend the aluminum they sit inside of along side of the bolts. I doubt that they got bent that way. unless the aluminum is bent too.

I was referring to under the bike, closer to the center of the bike.  Push up on that exhaust, the whole pipe will try to pivot a bit, and put stress on the header bolts.

[Toner]

sorry to crash the thread but I took inspiration from it and wanted to see if my header bolts would come lose yesterday. I couldn't get my size 6 allen wrench into them though. I was going to try and force them but I'd though I'd ask first. Is that the size wrench the take? Perhaps it was just rust in the way or they have contracted maybe?

[Yuri.]

sorry to crash the thread but I took inspiration from it and wanted to see if my header bolts would come lose yesterday. I couldn't get my size 6 allen wrench into them though. I was going to try and force them but I'd though I'd ask first. Is that the size wrench the take? Perhaps it was just rust in the way or they have contracted maybe?

It does take  a size 6, give it a little tap and it should go in, be sure it's completely in, otherwise you will round the head.
But if the bolts are rusted to this point the chance you will have problems with some of the bolts is huge

[bmf]

Don't rush, spray deep creep,  try to loosen AND tighten BUT just a little bit, repeat about once a week for a month. Helps a lot those small stresses over time.