Adjusting Air/Fuel Mixture Screw Without Removing Carbs?

Started by Al Capwn, July 08, 2015, 09:54:59 PM

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Al Capwn

Preface: My rebuild is nearly complete, but methinks I be runnin' a little lean. I know I didn't back out the mixture screws much, perhaps a couple of turns. Now rather than take off the seat, tank, air filter, and carbs to adjust the mixture screws - I have a relatively simple question...

Is there a tool (perhaps your personal preference) that you use to change these screws while they are still on the bike? 90 angle screwdriver? Socket wrench with a driver adapter? What method do y'all use to adjust this screw with the minimal amount of headache? Point me in the direction of thy nearest headache saver, and I don't mean Motrin! I think I am good on taking the bike apart for now.  :D

cWj

this. though I'd prefer if they'd had one for a 1/4 inch ratchet at Home Despot. Were I truly enterprising and industrious, I'd find a properly sized piece of wood to place under it that is long enough to be able to lever the bit up just enough to keep it slotted into the screw head while adjusting.


twocool

And another one!


just saying :whisper:


Cookie



Quote from: Al Capwn on July 08, 2015, 09:54:59 PM
Preface: My rebuild is nearly complete, but methinks I be runnin' a little lean. I know I didn't back out the mixture screws much, perhaps a couple of turns. Now rather than take off the seat, tank, air filter, and carbs to adjust the mixture screws - I have a relatively simple question...

Is there a tool (perhaps your personal preference) that you use to change these screws while they are still on the bike? 90 angle screwdriver? Socket wrench with a driver adapter? What method do y'all use to adjust this screw with the minimal amount of headache? Point me in the direction of thy nearest headache saver, and I don't mean Motrin! I think I am good on taking the bike apart for now.  :D

icecold

The most headache free + easy way (but probably not the cheapest!): http://www.scottsonline.com/Product_Purchase.php?PartType=59&Bike_ID=2212
I ordered two and if your springs are decent/new they hold adjustment just fine. They may work with old springs, too, but idk because I replaced mine.

Big Rich

I use a normal screwdriver bit (either the normal short ones or slightly longer if there's room), along with a 1/4" open ended wrench. Using the wrench and screwdriver bit allows you to see how many turns in / out you're going.
83 GR650 (riding / rolling project)

It's opener there in the wide open air...

Al Capwn

Quote from: twocool on July 09, 2015, 04:11:01 AM
And another one!


just saying :whisper:


Cookie



Quote from: Al Capwn on July 08, 2015, 09:54:59 PM
Preface: My rebuild is nearly complete, but methinks I be runnin' a little lean. I know I didn't back out the mixture screws much, perhaps a couple of turns. Now rather than take off the seat, tank, air filter, and carbs to adjust the mixture screws - I have a relatively simple question...

Is there a tool (perhaps your personal preference) that you use to change these screws while they are still on the bike? 90 angle screwdriver? Socket wrench with a driver adapter? What method do y'all use to adjust this screw with the minimal amount of headache? Point me in the direction of thy nearest headache saver, and I don't mean Motrin! I think I am good on taking the bike apart for now.  :D

Bike previously had new jets and the filter and ran fine, I was just lazy/absent-minded and didn't adjust the mixture screws when I swapped to a new carb body. I installed the new jets, and removed the brass plugs, but didn't think about adjusting the screws until it was put back together. After rebuilding my bike from the frame up, I am pretty sure that fuel delivery is the least of my issues.

Though since I have seen a glut of recent posts on how rejetting "ruins" the bike, I would like to know why you feel this way, and what information you have to back it up. Not trying to be a jerk, just genuinely curious. Since the wiki states that the lunchbox is a common alteration to the bike, and it frees up a ton of space in terms of maintenance, I would like to know why you are against rejetting the GS? I read the wiki, and followed the jetting guide based upon the model and the "3 turns out" is quite heavily referenced. If this information in incorrect, perhaps it should be removed?

I really don't mind tinkering and learning the bike - even though carbs are a dying art to adjust. I would say that if people lack patience or are just mechanically inept, they shouldn't delve into it, but the logic of rejetting is like saying "Oh, you installed a Power Commander with different maps - bike is ruined now!" for fuel injection; I just don't understand that logic. The worst case scenario is I put the stock airbox and jets back in - no big deal.  :thumb:

Al Capwn

Also, thanks for all the suggestions so far, everyone! Those longer adjustable screws might be something to get in the future, though I don't imagine having to tinker with them once they are set properly.

Would something like this work? May need the longer screwdriver bits to reach, and not sure if the standard #2 flathead bits are too wide.
http://www.harborfreight.com/8-piece-right-angle-screwdriver-92630.html


Watcher

Flathead bit from a magnetic tip driver, make a mark on one side and a different mark on the other side, done.
My screws turn easily without needing leverage, and marking the bit helps keep track of turns.
Feeling it into the slot is easy enough.
"The point of a journey is not to arrive..."

-Neil Peart

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