**!?Tips - suggestions help -- Pylon, Cone, Serpentine Weave Test - On Canada

[Edward]

Hi Folks,

What a great site!  Only here a couple of days and I have learned so much - so many friendly folks! 

Haven't ridden in 20+ years.  Even back then - I had a beginners license and would ride on my older brothers bike occassionaly.  It has all come back, but in two weeks I have to go for my practical test and am really getting nervous about one part of the test.  It is to weave through six sets of cones. Each set is 2 meters apart and between the sets is 4.5 meters.  I've noticed in some other countries, they only use one cone.  The two - really tests balance and driving at slow, slow speeds.  I've included a link below to show you what is looks like. ANY suggestions - what gear I should use - I assume 1st.  Break only rear?  Feather the clutch?  I find when I don't look directly at the cones I do well.  Sometimes I do it no problems and have been diligently practicing whenever I can find an empty parking spot, but sometimes I put my foot down and I understand you lose points for that.  ANY thoughts ideas, tips or if you are from the area and did this before - how you were graded would be MUCH appreciated.  Thank you!!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nc_C7Mqt8mI

[GSamIInsane]

Edward it seems to me that the youtube video was not complete, where is the part where they do the course just on the rear wheel?  LOL

I would be open to practicing this with you.  I am in Mississauga but also work downtown.  I only have my 90 day permit, but get this, I did my test end of August, I have to wait 60 days minimum before I do my M2, and the last day for the M2 test is Oct 15th.

So I am screwed, until the spring.  I have to rewrite the exam, get the 90day permit again, and test when they ramp up again.

Very depressing.

I have done a lot of preliminary motoring around just in my parking lot at my work during off hours and have found that I can be quite agile on the GS, even with massive pot holes in the lot.  Send me a private message and maybe we can meet and do some practice together.  Two heads are better than one.

M

[Edward]

Hi M,

That is crazy about the timing.

How do I send a PM?

Ed

[Big Rich]

Justwoke up , so bear with me....

Here in PA tthe license test included doing figure eights around 2 cones. The instructor said to go as fast or as slow as I wanted, don't go outside the sectioned off area, etc. Ever hear of Gymkhana?

Stay in 1st, make sure your throttle is smooth as silk (lube the cable), don't be afraid the lean the bike way over while you're upright, and do NOT look at the cones. Looking at the cones is a classic case of target fixation, and the instructor will be watching for that.

[Edward]

Good tips - Funny I forgot my tape measure today so I only practiced figure 8's and u-turns. Never heard of Gymkhana - will google it.  How do I lube my throttle?  ALSO - I have a 2005 GS 500 F - do you know what it should idle at? In first gear when I'm doing my practice - if I really slow down it almost stalls. Just want to make sure it's me - not the bike.  Thanks for the suggestions!

[bmf]

Go slow in first, don't touch clutch, you pull  your clutch and you go down. Keep light pressure on rear brake to stabilize bike. Don't touch front brake.

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[Big Rich]

A Google search on throttle cable lubing will give much better results than I can type out on my phone....  but if your throttle is already smooth,  you don't have to worry about it.

I believe the idle should be around 1300rpm +/- 100? It's in the manual, and should be posted around here as well.

Try not to over think the whole test - it will go a lot smoother if you stay relaxed.

[GSamIInsane]

I can help lube the throttle cable. I will pm you.

M

[cWj]

secrets to slow (my experience):

back brake.

clutch finesse (particularly on the GS).

smooth, steady revs (so you can modulate momentum with the clutch).

look where you want to go, not where you are right now (no looking down).

TURN YOUR HEAD.

love the lean.

position toward the front of the saddle (lift "the boys" and pull those knickers up snug...bicycle shorts are helpful).

eat.

hydrate.

cheer others on.

cheer yourself on (no self-deprecation on the range).


Not necessarily in that order.

[Bluesmudge]

Go slow in first, don't touch clutch, you pull  your clutch and you go down. Keep light pressure on rear brake to stabilize bike. Don't touch front brake.

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I don't agree with this advice at all. Use the clutch and stay smooth. For these slow speed maneuvers you can use the throttle to keep the engine in the powerband and modulate the clutch for increases and decreases in power. That way power delivery is linear and predictable. In reality I would probably use some combination of throttle and clutch control. Only use rear brake and only when you really need it.

The most important thing is to weight the bike on the outside of the corner (opposite of high speed maneuvers) so that the bike won't fall into the corner -- this will allow you to take a much tighter and slower corner without falling over.

[The Buddha]

Yea On a GS shutting the throttle is like you slammed on the brakes. Only bike its worse on - a savage or an MZ. Fewer cyls = more engine braking.
Cool.
Buddha.

[Slack]

The most important thing is to weight the bike on the outside of the corner (opposite of high speed maneuvers) so that the bike won't fall into the corner -- this will allow you to take a much tighter and slower corner without falling over.

Yep.
You can even slide your butt to the outside of the seat. And for really slow tight turns you have to stand up and lean way off the outside.

[Edward]

Hey Gang,

Great advice here.  So here is what I read.  On one of the Ghymkana sites on bikes - I read that they don't use the clutch.  In another article I read that bikes with a carb (mine 2005 GS F), you have to use the clutch.  SO - I cut some plastic squares out of an old piece of vinyl siding got my simulated cones - measuring tape and parking lot.  Practice, practice and more practice.  Slow - and I keep my head up and look just past the last set of cones and when I pull the clutch in, I push a little on the rear break, let the clutch out and lean (I think), I can do the exercise perfectly - struggled at the VERY start - so I have to work on the first set of cones, then it is good.  I have to try some of the other suggestions.  OH - and this is strange - I don't smile much.  While I'm doing this - I can't keep the grin off my face! Part of me thinks it helps.  In 11 days I have the test and because I have one shot...I'm panicking!  Thank you all and any other thoughts - please post them!!

[bmf]

Bluesmudge, I agree with you for normal riding.  For a beginner who might panic going around a stressful cone  corner,  pulling clutch = losing all momentum = losing control on a slow speed turn = falling into the turn.  You use the rear brake to control speed,  not the the clutch.
I've heard this on all of the advanced courses I have done.
But if it works for you that's obviously the way you should do it.
Bmf

[GSamIInsane]

Yea On a GS shutting the throttle is like you slammed on the brakes. Only bike its worse on - a savage or an MZ. Fewer cyls = more engine braking.
Cool.
Buddha.

That is the interesting you say that
I wa just wondering If all bikes were like that, as I am learning my timing during stopping at intersections, which I slo down too quickly I find...


M

[cWj]

Bluesmudge, I agree with you for normal riding.  For a beginner who might panic going around a stressful cone  corner,  pulling clutch = losing all momentum = losing control on a slow speed turn = falling into the turn.  You use the rear brake to control speed,  not the the clutch.
I've heard this on all of the advanced courses I have done.
But if it works for you that's obviously the way you should do it.
Bmf

Unless things have changed, MSF BRC says use the clutch.

Pulling the clutch in does not cause one to lose all forward momentum.

The danger in going slow is the front brake.

[bmf]

CWJ, ive Been busy and have not been able to find the reference until now. On page 162 of the MSF book "motorcycling excellence", it clearly states that when doing slow turns," under no circumstances snap the throttle shut  or to squeeze in the clutch -this loss of driveline power will make the motorcycle fall inwards"
I've heard that the MSF has not had is license renewed in various states due to quality control issues, for example California. I wonder if this is an example of that?

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[Slack]

I'll pipe in and say that in my opinion you can slip the clutch if going slow. BUT there is a difference between slipping the clutch and pulling it all the way in. After all, you can only go so slow without stalling out your bike if you don't slip the clutch. And many bikes are very jerky when bogged down to less then 750 or 1000 rmps with the back brake, not at all good when you need to be smooth.

[cWj]

CWJ, ive Been busy and have not been able to find the reference until now. On page 162 of the MSF book "motorcycling excellence", it clearly states that when doing slow turns," under no circumstances snap the throttle shut  or to squeeze in the clutch -this loss of driveline power will make the motorcycle fall inwards"
I've heard that the MSF has not had is license renewed in various states due to quality control issues, for example California. I wonder if this is an example of that?

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I don't believe any of us are saying to snap the throttle closed or pull the clutch all the way in.

You use the clutch (partly engaged/slipping/"finesse" with steadily applied RPM (throttle) to control  momentum with the rear brake at parking lot speeds. This is what we were taught in my MSF class.

[bmf]

It seems that we agree . That was my point, that a beginner in a panic situation is likely to pull in the clutch or snap the throttle shut, which will lead to a fall. You don't need to feather the clutch on a cone course unless you are riding a high revving low cc sports bike.  Idle speed with a bit of back brake is all you need, and much easier for a newbie to manage.

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