Stalling

[1034am]

a small / medium cro bar to hold the shim/bucket down, then a flat-head screwdriver inserted sideways (blade vertically) between the bucket and cam lobe should allow removal of shim. use needle-nose pliers and/or a magnet. and stuff a rag down the center hole so the shim doesn't fall into it.  it's easy once you get a few under your belt.

[Bluesmudge]

If you figure out the trick to that motion pro tool, it actually works pretty good. Takes some practice to learn the necessary angle of the dangle so it doesnt slip out.

[jakeoster]

Ended up using a screwdriver with the MP tool. Got it out Tuesday night, been waiting for the shims to show up. It should be there tomorrow. Then I'll finally have my two wheels back

Four wheels have been getting pretty old.

[jakeoster]

I replaced the shims, after turning over the engine by hand a few times I used my feeler gauges to check the final clearance. With 2.65 on the right exhaust valve and 2.60 on the left. I didn't have to change the intake side. The exhaust valves had 2.72 shims in them stock. Ended up with .08 and .09 on the exhaust and .08 and .09 on the intake. While I was in there I re-torqued the head. I've changed the oil and oil filter, front/rear sprockets, the chain, running some just broken in bt-45s, blew out the air filter, reset the idle, waxed it, and re-gaped the spark plugs. The bike is now running like a dream. The throttle response and midrange is so crisp now, no stalling issues, starts up quick. Probably a slight boost in power and it sounds better. After riding 80 or so miles the shifting interestingly seems to have improved too. I don't know why but it just has a consistent engagement feel.

Thanks for the help all

My impression with taking it apart is that it's never been apart before. At 12k miles is there anything to be gained by servicing the carbs?

[Bluesmudge]

The shifting improvement is likely due to the oil change.