Battery drain and throttle problems

[wanderingturmoil]

Just bought an 89 gs500e. Guess I made a bad purchase because I haven't owned it for 24 hours and I'm already having problems with it.

Rode it around before I went to class today and wasn't really having any issues. Got home from classes and the dang thing wouldn't start; dead battery. Contacted the PO and he mentioned the clutch safety switch had been removed and it causes a slow battery drain; he always kept it on a battery tender so it was never an issue supposedly. I live in a mult-floor apartment complex and cant really keep it on a battery tender. Does it make sense that this switch bypass could cause the battery to slowly drain over time? I don't have a multi meter with me; forgot to bring it when I moved out of parents, so as of right now I can't check to see if there is current being drawn when the bike is off. Thinking of either replacing the bypass with an OEM safety switch or possibly finding where the switch wires were spliced together and throwing a toggle switch in the middle so it can be shut off to stop current draw when the bike is parked (considering that's where the current is being drawn).

2nd issue is that the bike has an aftermarket 1/4 turn quick throttle. The issue with this is that the dang throttle can be rolled backwards OR forwards to give gas to the motor! WTF! Took a closer look today and noticed theres literally only one throttle cable attached to the throttle on right grip so I'm assuming the lack of the 2nd cable is why I can roll it forward and wind up tugging the throttle cable again in that direction and give gas to the bike. I'm really worried about this because just riding around my parking lot I noticed I would roll forward onto the throttle while braking. Talk about death throttle... I don't have the tools or the space to fix that myself if it's as simple as running the second throttle cable to its proper location, if that's the issue. Here's a pic of the throttle; I'm assuming the threaded hole there on the top-left is intended to have the 2nd throttle cable in it. Checked near the throttle cable that IS there and there's no other cable ran so it's not just a case of it having come undone and hanging loose somewhere. https://imgur.com/a/xDjHo

Thoughts, comments, concerns on either of these two issues?  I'm kicking myself in the ass now because now I'm realizing I paid way too much for this dang bike, AND it needs the rear tire replaced to boot. Jipped. Learned my lesson there. 

[Suzuki Stevo]

"Does it make sense that this switch bypass could cause the battery to slowly drain over time?"  No

[ShowBizWolf]

Welcome to the forum wanderingturmoil !! And normally I'd also say congrats on the bike purchase but I don't think that'd be appropriate right now 

If it were my bike I'd replace the bypass with an OEM switch... I agree with your thinking about that as an option.

Stevo says that's not what's causing the slow drain on the battery so that'd be the next thing I'd try to figure out. Looking over the bike even further, have you noticed any other aftermarket looking stuff or wiring that looks messed with?

The throttle thing... woah that certainly would be tricky!! Again, I'm thinking OEM replacement... I have a Clymer manual for my GS and it has helped soooo much with many things. They aren't very expensive so maybe you could pick one of those up! I'd consult that to see what cables go where and replace that thing with stock parts. You did mention about not having the tools or the space to do much work and that's very much a bummer 

Gotta be a diagram around here or pictures someplace of how those cables go... maybe on the wiki? I'm not sure and have to get back to work now lol but hopefully others will reply soon to give you more of a direction to go!!

Hang with it, I know things seem crummy right now but the GS is an awesome bike and this forum is a huge bonus... if you work out some of the kinks, I'm sure you won't regret the purchase anymore 

[Arpee]

I think that switch (clutch safety) would only be active when the key is on, so no, I don't think that's the issue.  Could be just a bad battery.  My bike has a bad clutch safety as well, just jumped it together.

The other issue may be a little more complex.  There should be a dual push/pull cable insertion (for lack of the proper term) at the carb.  That doesn't look like the push/pull cables I've seen before, such as on my DR 350.  Looks like something has been a little "cobbled together there".  I "think" you may just be able to get a stock throttle tube for cheap and reconnect and be good to go.  Sell that silly 1/4 turn thing.  Looks like you have some sweet ASV levers there though.

[wanderingturmoil]

It's going to be getting a state inspection as soon as I get it registered so hopefully they can give me some ideas on how to fix both issues (granted it actually passes inspection.. My luck, it wont!)

I'm an EE student so I have a little electrical knowledge. My thoughts on the switch bypass causing drain would be if the permanent connection caused a constant ground and thus constant current flow. I haven't looked up wiring schematics on the bike yet so I'm not sure if that's an accurate assumption. But just double-thinking on the concept, the battery itself should already be grounded to the frame anyways so that logic doesn't really work I suppose.

There -are- aftermarket turn signals on front and back. The back ones are mounted onto the side fairings just below the rear portion of the seat which is rather frustrating because I'll have to move them if I ever want to add saddlebags for touring  Theres also a 2-pin connector (don't know the name of this thing) that was already attached to the battery that would be used for simple battery tender hookup or to power a GPS or similar electronics (I suppose? PO mentioned using if for a GPS; my electrical knowledge tells me def. not to hook up small electronics to that battery without some sort of load resistance between 'em).

I took the battery to a shop that had a charge station and left it to charge over night. Going to slap it back in tomorrow and see how long it lasts before it dies again. Battery has 48wH rating so if it's going to drain out and die again, I should know within a couple days.

The biggest issue for me is I live in an apartment, don't have all my tools with me, and it's against contract to do mechanical work in the parking lot so it's not like I can even drag everything out there and disassemble. The throttle assembly will likely wind up being paid to be replaced, unfortunately. But that won't be anytime soon because my budget is tight and I saved up on the side to get the bike, not assuming I'd wind up with several issues within 24 hours of purchase. 

As per the levers, yup, they are 6-position adjustable & flip up.


I'm pretty bummed at this point, safe to say that much. Thought I was getting a good deal but I guess I learned my lesson. Guy was way too eager to take the price I offered and I immediately knew I should've offered a lot less and let him haggle it up some, but, ya know, tried to be respectful and not an @$$hole low-baller and this is what I get. 

[wanderingturmoil]

Just as an additional thought - should I check into the stator motor being the battery drain issue? Perhaps it's not keeping the battery charged?

I let the bike run for about 30 minutes earlier today when I finally got it jumped and started again in hopes the battery would charge back up like you can do with a car. While the bike was still running, I watched the charge indicator on the lithium ion battery slowly go back to fully charged. But literally the moment I turned the bike off, the indicator went straight back to low.

Also didnt mention in the last post; I had the battery checked at the shop and their computer showed it being fine. Thus my decision was made to leave it overnight on an actual charge station.

We'll see how things go tomorrow; I'll keep this updated in hopes someone with similar issues past or present can give me ideas on where to look.

[Arpee]

What I would do here pretty quick (next best move) get a good manual.  The Suzuki official shop manual is always the first choice as they're pretty comprehensive.  Clymer is my 2nd choice.  Pictures are better and they are easy to follow.  The shop manual has the best electrical schematic (nice and big).  There's definately a hot circuit somewhere.  Luckily, these bikes are pretty straight-forward.  I'd be leery of the aftermarket electrical parts (signals, etc) probably check those first since the PO had to "special accomodations" for these.

The throttle cable and throttle tube should be easy.  Small phillips head screw driver, pair of pliers maybe.  That throttle cable looks stock and it just gets fed up into the little "hole" in the bottom of the plastic enclosure for the start button.  That enclosure wraps around the (stock) throttle tube. Tools will fit in your pockets, there won't be any oil, tools or parts on the ground for this.  Take you 30 minutes to it, "Bob's your uncle" and that's if you have a beer in the other hand!  Hate to see you spend good money to have a shop do  that for you. 

[sledge]

The symptoms are classic........a battery that won't hold charge!

Did the shop actually load test it?

This test is dynamic rather than static, it replicates the conditions it will see in use. Its the only real way of determining if its serviceable. I would be wanting confirmation that this has actually been done.

Another possibility.....one of the diodes in the reg/rect could have gone bad causing a high resistance ground path that will allow the battery to drain and/or not charge the battery correctly. Test is easy, just unplug it for a few days and if the battery stays up you have found the problem.

[wanderingturmoil]

The throttle cable and throttle tube should be easy.  Small phillips head screw driver, pair of pliers maybe.  That throttle cable looks stock and it just gets fed up into the little "hole" in the bottom of the plastic enclosure for the start button.  That enclosure wraps around the (stock) throttle tube. Tools will fit in your pockets, there won't be any oil, tools or parts on the ground for this.  Take you 30 minutes to it, "Bob's your uncle" and that's if you have a beer in the other hand!  Hate to see you spend good money to have a shop do  that for you. 

I've taken the throttle assy apart already. It works fine, but theres no "stop" per se, it just rolls forward until the tube turns all the way forward and around, and pulls the throttle cable the opposite direction and thus revving the engine. Theres also probably 45 degrees of free play that can't be gotten rid of. I took assy apart and moved the cable around to different slots and reassembled, and literally only one slot on the tube will allow proper return, which is the slot it was in when I got it. I'm planning on just ordering either an OEM throttle assy or finding a different aftermarket one online if I can get suggestions of one that would work.

Also, suppose I do need a service manual. But, my biggest question is if my bike is intended to have one or two throttle cables on it. Everyone says there should be a return cable but I can't find anywhere on/near carbs where a 2nd would be attached to, nor can I find it on a parts diagram. Bike is a 1990 (mfg 89, title says '90)

[wanderingturmoil]

Found an online PDF service manual for 90 gs500e. Appears it only has a single throttle cable. Now I need to figure out why the quick turn throttle I have has no stop feature to keep it from rolling forward...

[wanderingturmoil]

Would it be possible to simply get a small section of throttle cable with the knob at the end, secure it through the currently-available hole and into one of the other slots in the tube, then use the same type of screw assy so that the throttle would only roll so far forward?

[wanderingturmoil]

I've scoured the net far and wide and have yet to find a single other person discussing issues with their throttle revving the engine when its rolled all the way forward.

Also can't find shaZam! worth of information on throttle stops either.

[wanderingturmoil]

I also can't find a single place that has OEM throttle assy on a parts diagram or for sale? Simply throttle tube and right controls (kill switch, start button).

[qcbaker]

I also can't find a single place that has OEM throttle assy on a parts diagram or for sale? Simply throttle tube and right controls (kill switch, start button).

http://www.partzilla.com/parts/search/Suzuki/Motorcycle/1989/GS500ET/HANDLE+SWITCH/parts.html

This what youre looking for?

[wanderingturmoil]

I also can't find a single place that has OEM throttle assy on a parts diagram or for sale? Simply throttle tube and right controls (kill switch, start button).

http://www.partzilla.com/parts/search/Suzuki/Motorcycle/1989/GS500ET/HANDLE+SWITCH/parts.html

This what youre looking for?

Sure is, thanks! I actually found that same bit on a parts diagram last night and took the right hand controls apart today to double check that it's also the stock assy for the throttle tube. I was under the impression there was a separate housing for the tube/cable setup that included slots for two wires since all the info I'm finding seems to point toward there being two throttle cables. But, once I figured out theres only one for my year/model, it kinda' clicked. Unfortunately new to working on bikes so it's all a bit of a learning curve. Now I realize all I need to do is order a normal throttle tube for the bike, rather than an entire new quick throttle + assy for it. Appears theres a stop in the right hand controls so I'll get a new tube and see how that works out.

[Arpee]

Good.  Glad you came back around on that one.  These bikes never had a two cable assembly.  This should be a quick fix for you once you get the stock throttle tube.

[wanderingturmoil]

So the OEM throttle tube is $50something both online where I've checked and at the local power sports dealer. So as of now, I'm ordering a Motion Pro RM-01-0094 R6 tube in hopes that it will work on my year/model as it has for other guys here on gstwins.

Bike also came with a nice bar end mirror, but only one. State requires 2 for passable inspection so having to orer a set of those too.  Luckily I have about another week before it has to have an inspection sticker on it.

And of course grips to go with the new tube because the current grip is the spongy-foam kind and it's definitely glued down and is going to rip if I try to take them off. 


I took it for a ride around some back streets the other night and thought I was hearing a funny sound coming from the engine, but when I took my helmet back off I couldn't pick up on that sound anymore. Not sure what thats about but definitely keeping my eye (ears?) on it in the future.


As far as the battery drain issue goes - It's now been 4 days since I put the recharged battery back in. Didn't start it yesterday (busy) and haven't had a chance to today. Going to pop the seat later and check the battery indicator and see if it's dropped any thus far. If it hasn't, then I'm just going to keep an eye on it and assume the battery was just low when I purchased it (or maybe I turned the key too far, to park, instead of lock, the night I brought it home? I noticed I did that the other evening after my ride and now I'm wondering if that's where the issue was  )

[Arpee]

A boat load here on e-bay to choose from:

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.XGS500+throttle.TRS0&_nkw=GS500+throttle&_sacat=6000