Magneto Bolt

[nuclearfenix]

Hello,

So once before my magneto bolt has come loose, I drained the oil, took the side off, tightened the bolt (With blue loctite instead of red), replaced the side and put the oil back in. This was probably about 7 or 8 months ago. Suddenly the other morning I get the dreaded "Whirring" sound. I open up the side and sure enough the bolt is loose again, from what I understand the Haynes manual says to use Red Loctite. So I put some loctite on put the bolt back in, fill up the oil, etc. About an hour after I started the bike up and worked fine. I did 2 or 3 times. Something made me want to try again so I did and the bolt came loose.

Opened the side up wiped the Red Loctite from the bolt, wiped the threads of the magneto, reapplied the loctite and this time I let it sit for a day and a half. 36 hours. I just tried to start it again and I have the whirring sound. So either the loctite didn't take or I didn't tighten the bolt enough. It's also been cold so i'm not sure if that is part of it.

Am I doing something wrong or is there a better adhesive? I used Red Loctite 271.

Should I not put the oil back in so soon after?

I'm kind of concerned that the loctite cured in some areas and i'm not sure if it's safe to use a torch on the magneto to get the loctite loose.

[Bluesmudge]

Is this the bolt you have to tighten by using a strap wrench on the generator rotor or some other method to torque it down?

Its been awhile, but I remember using just blue loctite. Most important thing was to clean both surfaces with a solvent and rubbing alcohol before applying the loctite and screwing it in. Check the service manual for the torque specification. 36 hours should have been more than enough.

[mr72]

Yeah the surface is probably contaminated with oil which is preventing the red loctite from adhering.

Red loctite is supposed to be permanent. I suggest using it for this job, not the blue.

You should to clean the bolt threads and the tapped hole with acetone. Be absolutely sure there is no remnant of oil or old loctite in there. One good way is to "chase" the threads with a tap to clean them out, then blow that out with compressed air, then use a bunch of q-tips soaked in acetone to clean the hole and the bolt. Then paint the threads with red loctite and torque to spec. If the red loctite sets correctly, you will not be able to get the bolt out ever again without a heat gun or a torch. It won't come out on its own.

[gsJack]

I pulled the generator rotor on my 02 GS a couple years ago to fix a loose rattling starter clutch which is mounted to the back side of the rotor.  I replaced the 3 bolts holding the clutch on applying blue loctite and torqued to 15 ft lbs.  I held the rotor on my desk with both hands while my wife manned the torque wrench.

Using valve lapping compound I lapped the rotor to the crankshafts tapered journal and after cleanup applied a smear of blue loctite to the journal, put the rotor on, and torqued it down to 80-95 ft lbs.  It never came loose again.

[sledge]

You need to carefully check the condition of the male and female tapers and relap them if there is even the slightest sign of scoring. Its the tapered interface that transmits the torque and if its worn or damaged itx efficiency and ability to do this will be reduced.......no matter how tight the bolt is!!

There is no need for any sort of Loctite on the tapers if they are properly mated. Suzuki don't do it so why do you need to? Better to warm the flywheel and cool the shaft before fitting and let interference help. This way you stand a chance of getting it off again!!!

Don't be tempted to overtighten the bolt, if you do it will strain the thread. Soft Loctite it if it makes you feel warm and fuzzy, it will help prevent the negative effects of vibration, inertia and heat cycling.

Do the repair properly and forget about it........or kludge it and wait for it to fail for a third time, its your call 

http://www.biker66.com/rotor.htm
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=bezP0s0NtLc

[nuclearfenix]

So I took it apart and put it back together again this morning before I saw these replies. This time I did do a complete clean. Took everything apart and checked them. No signs of damage. I did use a good amount of blue loctite though, So I may be doing this again but that is ok with me because I have to change out the gasket ASAP. I haven't put any oil back in because I wanted to let the loctite set for a while.

There is a Red oil resistant loctite but I have to order it because no one around me sells it.

Btw, I followed Adidasguy's video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GxS5yZ44AHU

[nuclearfenix]

Anyone know what size tap I need for inside thethreads of the crankshaft to clean it out. I'm replacing the gasket when it comes in soon. I'm gonna replace blue loctite with red and try it again after cleaning it with acetone.

[sledge]

M14x1.5

But please.....do yourself a big favour at the same time and check the condition of the taper. Particularly if the flywheel comes off with little or no effort.

Very very few people understand how tapers function nor do they appreciate how vital they are 

[nuclearfenix]

I will thanks for the advice. At first it didn't but on my second or third removal it did come off fairly easy. I'm gonna follow your guide video. I'm looking locally, where do you even find a tap that size?

Btw sledge, you wouldn't happen to be on the east coast would you?

[sledge]

I would try a local engineering supplies merchant for the tap and because you are only chasing the thread an adjustable spanner on the flats will be fine.

I am on the NW coast, about 30 miles in.......... NW coast of England that is 

[nuclearfenix]

Ah. Your signature made me think you were referring to someone on the east coast who owns a shaZam! ton of old bikes (in working order)  that he puts on display everyday when he opens his shop.