Precautionary post, could use some advice

[nuclearfenix]

I've had issues with my 07 Gs500 recently where it only runs smoothly with the choke on. Releasing the choke causes it to have a rough idle, it's either too high or too low, and adjusting the idle screw will cause it to hang when revved or come down slowly. The bike only sat for two weeks during the winter before this started happening, previous to the two weeks it was fine.

Today I had about an hour to take a look at it. It won't start without choke, disengaging choke causes it to sputter and die, no mice or anything in the air box, I did notice a clapping sound coming from the right side carb, so I figure there might be a little dirt or something. I plan on changing the spark plugs only after I siphon out most of the gas (exception of the reserve) and pour half a bottle of seafoam in there and run it till I get smoke and then let it sit for 24 hours before siphoning the rest our and replacing it with fresh gas.

Anything else I should look for?

[Watcher]

Would be a good idea to check for a vacuum leak.

Mist some water around the carbs with a spray bottle, a dip in RPM will indicate a leak.

[nuclearfenix]

This is true. I'll try that tomorrow. It would be hard to imagine with how much work my mechanic had done a couple months ago. But I will indeed look.

[Watcher]

Unless he replaced all the lines a leak CAN just spontaneously happen on old rubber.

But the symptoms are all there.  Needs choke to enrich the mixture, idle hangs and is slow to return on throttle blip.

It could also be a clogged idle jet or something leaning out the mix, but start simple and work your way up in complexity.  No sense taking the carbs all the way apart if you don't have to.

[mr72]

I agree, it's most likely a vacuum leak. And most likely it's at the intake boots interface to the engine.

[nuclearfenix]

I agree, it's most likely a vacuum leak. And most likely it's at the intake boots interface to the engine.

So I sprayed the boots where it meets the engine. Nothing on the left, but when I sprayed the right, on the metal part I got a change in RPMs. It was slight, but it was there. So its the right boot to engine. There doesn't appear to be any cracks or anything. I'm assuming the entire boot needs to be replaced?

[Watcher]

The boot might be OK but there is an oring there that may have gone bad.

Is that the same side that was backfiring through the carb?

[nuclearfenix]

The boot might be OK but there is an oring there that may have gone bad.

Is that the same side that was backfiring through the carb?

Well the backfiring was coming from the airbox I found out. Like a puff sound. The right side sound was like a low volume, hard to hear, clap sound.

[nuclearfenix]

Just to add a visual, http://imgur.com/M7dgs5x that is the offending part. How difficult is it to replace the O-ring. I really didn't want to go removing a ton of tubes and such (I unfortunately have the California model.) and having to reseat the carbs. I'm just trying to get rid of the bike.

[Watcher]

The oring is between the boot and the engine.  It would involve removing the carbs, which would involve pulling the gas tank, but I don't think you'll have to disconnect all the tubes and hoses.

[nuclearfenix]

The oring is between the boot and the engine.  It would involve removing the carbs, which would involve pulling the gas tank, but I don't think you'll have to disconnect all the tubes and hoses.

I don't mind pulling the gas tank. Its just all the tubes and then the difficulty I had getting the carbs back on. It was a nightmare last time. I think I might just have to sell it as it is.

[Watcher]

The airbox is the biggest difficulty with installing the carbs, IMHO, but putting the airbox on the carbs and then putting the carbs in place makes it a lot easier.

[The Buddha]

The airbox is the biggest difficulty with installing the carbs, IMHO, but putting the airbox on the carbs and then putting the carbs in place makes it a lot easier.

Yikes - I have the opposite experience. I prefer to put carbs on, then take out the air filter and stick my hand inside the airbox and massage the airbox rubber mouths onto the carbs. I should actually try it your way too.
Cool.
Buddha.

[mr72]

Yikes - I have the opposite experience. I prefer to put carbs on, then take out the air filter and stick my hand inside the airbox and massage the airbox rubber mouths onto the carbs. I should actually try it your way too.

+1 that. That's the way that works best for me. Also helps a lot to glue the rubber boots into the airbox so they don't pop out while trying to fit it.

[nuclearfenix]

So after I did the Seafoam treatment to my bike, I started it up and got the white smoke. Drained what I could of the Seafoam, drained the carbs, added fresh gas and took it for a ride. It feels a lot better, but does not solve my problem. Warmed the bike up with the choke on, no issues, turned the choke off - got up to 50 mph and stopped at a stoplight. Bike starts to die rev it to keep it from stalling. So it has to be that right side carb to engine boot. Maybe Buddha and Mr72 can chime in as well on this aswell, I won't have to disconnect any of the tubes or sync the carbs afterwards, will I?

Also does anyone know the part number for the O-rings for the carb to engine boot?

Edit: I also just realized the last shop to work on my bike put the carb bowls on backwards. Instead of the drain screw facing outwards, mine face inwards.

[qcbaker]

...
Edit: I also just realized the last shop to work on my bike put the carb bowls on backwards. Instead of the drain screw facing outwards, mine face inwards.

I didn't even realize you could install the carb bowls on backwards...

Maybe they installed the left carb's bowl on the right carb and vice versa?

[nuclearfenix]

...
Edit: I also just realized the last shop to work on my bike put the carb bowls on backwards. Instead of the drain screw facing outwards, mine face inwards.

I didn't even realize you could install the carb bowls on backwards...

Maybe they installed the left carb's bowl on the right carb and vice versa?

It seems like it. They are the same jackholes that dropped my gas tank, put a huge dent in it, never told me, and planned on painting it black to match the rest of the bike.... without telling me.

Also I found this http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=46859.0

Tomtampa says he used Urethane or Sikaflex to seal the leak he was having in the same spot. What are the max temp for those or rather which one could be used in that application.

[mr72]

Also does anyone know the part number for the O-rings for the carb to engine boot?

See this post for some details about o-rings you might need.

http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=71312.msg857877#msg857877

[Watcher]

Maybe Buddha and Mr72 can chime in as well on this aswell, I won't have to disconnect any of the tubes or sync the carbs afterwards, will I?

Not likely.

You just need to disconnect the carbs so far as you can move them away enough to get at the two boot screws.  I don't think you'll need to disconnect any hoses or cables at all.

As for syncing the carbs, as long as they were set right before the leak occurred and weren't messed with before getting this diagnosis, they should still be set properly.

[nuclearfenix]

Thanks guys, any ideas on the urethane or sikaflex?