New chain keeps getting loose after 1 ride

[mrdrprof]

I replaced my chain about a month ago and I've put about 400-500 miles on it but it keeps getting loose after riding for about an hour. I've made sure the chain has 20-30mm of slack and the sprockets are lined up and the axle is plenty tight. I put on an EK 520 O-ring chain and JT front and rear sprockets (stock sizes). I'm starting to get annoyed having to adjust it after every ride. 

[Watcher]

Are you setting the slack on the side stand or the center stand?
If on the center stand it will be set too tight and will definitely stretch fast AND cause damage to the final drive.

Other than that, seems like you checked every box.  I don't know about EK, no experience with them, but I usually see them advertised on Amazon which makes me instantly suspicious.
RK and DID are the two names I trust in chains.  Put an RK 520 GXW on my Ducati about 1000 miles ago and the last adjustment I needed to do was on accident (axle nut came loose).

[The Buddha]

In the mid 90's I had some issues like this. POS chains. The ones I found to be the best were DID and I think diamond. I have a DID on my 1 bike, and a Diamond on the SV. Nothing else is 1/2 decent, and even these may be crap nowadays.
Cool.
Buddha.

[mrdrprof]

Are you setting the slack on the side stand or the center stand?
If on the center stand it will be set too tight and will definitely stretch fast AND cause damage to the final drive.

Other than that, seems like you checked every box.  I don't know about EK, no experience with them, but I usually see them advertised on Amazon which makes me instantly suspicious.

I adjust the chain on the side stand. I have also heard EK is a pretty good brand but I don't have experience with any chain company's as this is the first time I replaced a chain on a motorcycle.

In the mid 90's I had some issues like this. POS chains. The ones I found to be the best were DID and I think diamond. I have a DID on my 1 bike, and a Diamond on the SV. Nothing else is 1/2 decent, and even these may be crap nowadays.
Cool.
Buddha.

Huh, I thought EK was a good brand. If it continues to be a problem then I will switch to D.I.D. Also, I just checked the front sprocket and I'm not sure if it's on backwards or not. Is the flat side supposed to go towards the engine? Because I have the side with the ridge towards the engine right now.

[The Buddha]

Shoulder of front sprocket should be outside, and no idea about new DID etc, mine are 10+ yrs old.
And chain slack should be set on center stand, not side stand.
Cool.
Buddha.

[alpo]

DID is a good chain. So is RK. I have no experience with EK.

And chain slack should be set on center stand, not side stand.

Don't go there! 

According to the manual slack should be set on the side stand. Go figure.... My measurements indicate the slack is the same on the center stand and the side stand. Setting slack on the center stand is a lot easier to do. Plus, when on the center stand you can push the axle forward (push the wheel) while adjusting the adjusters and tightening the axle nut. Another trick is to flip the axle, putting the nut on the brake side. When tightening the nut you are pushing the axle forward instead of pulling it backward.

[Suzuki Stevo]

DID is a good chain. So is RK. I have no experience with EK.

And chain slack should be set on center stand, not side stand.

Don't go there! 

According to the manual slack should be set on the side stand. Go figure.... My measurements indicate the slack is the same on the center stand and the side stand. Setting slack on the center stand is a lot easier to do. Plus, when on the center stand you can push the axle forward (push the wheel) while adjusting the adjusters and tightening the axle nut. Another trick is to flip the axle, putting the nut on the brake side. When tightening the nut you are pushing the axle forward instead of pulling it backward.

Agreed 

[gregjet]

Just another thing to check.
Makes sure the lock nut or the adjuster nut on the chain adjuster isn't stripped ( either side). Even if only one is stuffed the nut will be able to back off. It is a VERY common problem as people try to adjust the chain without loosening the lock nut first.
Replace the lock nut with a stainless nylock and you don't have to do it up as tight when locking, just firm it into the adjuster nut.
Just in case, run the nuts off the adjuster and check the threads on it haven't been compromised.

[mrdrprof]

DID is a good chain. So is RK. I have no experience with EK. According to the manual slack should be set on the side stand. Go figure.... My measurements indicate the slack is the same on the center stand and the side stand. Setting slack on the center stand is a lot easier to do. Plus, when on the center stand you can push the axle forward (push the wheel) while adjusting the adjusters and tightening the axle nut. Another trick is to flip the axle, putting the nut on the brake side. When tightening the nut you are pushing the axle forward instead of pulling it backward.

Okay, I'll try that. Thanks

Just another thing to check.
Makes sure the lock nut or the adjuster nut on the chain adjuster isn't stripped ( either side). Even if only one is stuffed the nut will be able to back off. It is a VERY common problem as people try to adjust the chain without loosening the lock nut first.
Replace the lock nut with a stainless nylock and you don't have to do it up as tight when locking, just firm it into the adjuster nut.
Just in case, run the nuts off the adjuster and check the threads on it haven't been compromised.

I will also check this. Thanks for the advise guys 

[ohgood]

check your cush drive and wheel bearings.

the only chain that will wear that fast it's one running on aluminum sprockets.

[gregjet]

Actually good call. Check the sprocket carrier bearing first. The one one the gs500 Disaster I bought was stuffed to the point so collapse ( not quite there yet).

[alpo]

Aluminum sprockets are a waste of money. They only save a few ounces of weight and wear out really fast. Aluminum vs steel: steel wins.

The adjusters do not have lock nuts. The single nuts serve one purpose: To position the axle for proper chain sprocket alignment and chain tension. Two purposes I guess.   Once the axle nut is tightened to spec the adjuster nuts sit there doing nothing.

One thing I have learned is you cannot rely on the swingarm marks to correctly adjust an axle. A set of digital calipers makes setting the exact distance on each side simple. It's easy on bikes with axle blocks; on the GS500 I measure from the end of the axle to the bottom of the adjuster plates.

There's an easy way to align the wheels using string. Google it, then adjust your rear wheel accordingly. Once the wheels are aligned you have a baseline for adjusting chain tension.

[gregjet]

Alpo is correct. Stock GS adjuster has no locknut. Mine did have. I just assumed it was std.
I have made my own solid Al axle carriage and stainless adjusters and they have adjuster and nylock locknut.
Stripped thread on the nut or the adjsuter shaft is still worth checking. If the chain was attempted to be adjusted without loosening the axle enough they get stripped. Then when you tighten the axle, the movement of the spanner can loosen the chain tension by moving the axle.
Also if the nut does nothing try removing it and ride the bike. The axle will move forward. The nut acts as a stop.

[mrdrprof]

Sorry for the late reply, but I tried flipping the axle around and it didn't seem to help, and I've checked the threads on the adjusters and the nuts and they look okay. But the threads on the axle feel a little chewed up when turning the nut by hand, so could it be the axle and/or nut? It feels like it tightens up good when I tighten the axle nut and I can't slide the wheel by hand when it's tight, but I guess it could still be loose enough to slide around when riding? I'm really at a loss with this.

[user11235813]

@mrdrprof,

1. Do make certain that you are not turning the bolt as you tighten the nut at least put a spanner on it to check.

2. Spend $60 on a Profi CAT you'll always know your chain is perfectly aligned.

3. Make sure to loosen the two 14mm torque link nuts when adjusting the chain.

4. With the bike on the centre stand, you should be able to push the chain up so that it very nearly touches the plastic chain guide on the bottom of the swing arm, and you'll be good to go.

Yes it is true that the manual says that the chain slack should be adjusted on the side stand which is how I calibrated that the chain should almost touch the chain guide. Once you've calibrated this way you can now forever leave it on the centre stand because it's the only way to do it properly.

5. See 2.

[barry905]

From my experience the make and type of chain that you buy can make a huge difference. Three years ago I discovered a tight spot in the chain and had to replace it. As it was a desperation measure (I HAD to ride the bike) I went to the local Suzuki dealer and bought the only chain they stocked. Once fitted it ran well but every 5 or 6 rides I had to re-tension the chain. After about a year I reached the point where there were no more threads left to adjust the chain. So this time I went to the internet and purchased a D.I.D. X-ring chain (to the correct length). Since then I have adjusted the length once!

No more non-D.I.D. chains for me!

[Watcher]

So this time I went to the internet and purchased a D.I.D. X-ring chain (to the correct length). Since then I have adjusted the length once!

No more non-D.I.D. chains for me!

I "accidentally" ended up with an RK GXW chain on my Ducati which is also being incredibly stable.  Then again, putting a chain rated for a modern 1000cc+ race bike on a carburetted 750cc street bike meant I expected it to be way stronger than what had come off of it (which happened to be a DID, not sure ring type, likely just an O-ring).  Went from doing an adjustment once or twice a month to having done only one in about 1500 miles.