Right Side Oil Leak

GeoffreyWinkleman · September 15, 2019, 12:36:48 PM

Hi All!

New to the forum and just purchased my first bike, a 2001 GS500! Didn't have much of a budget but found one on eBay for £700. I love the look of the bike and can't wait to give it some TLC and get it back to looking its best.

However, I rode the bike home and it seemed to ride really well until I noticed oil all over the right hand side of the bike (rear brake side). I couldn't see where the oil was coming from so thoroughly cleaned down the entire bike hoping to then identify the source of the leak. Since the clean down, not a drop of oil coming from the bike even if I start it up and leave it idling for a while. Seems to only happen when I'm riding it.

Just after some help if anyone else has had this problem and some ideas on where it might be coming from.

GW

ShowBizWolf · September 15, 2019, 02:03:10 PM

Hello Geoffrey! Welcome to the forum and congrats on the bike!!

Since you mentioned how it doesn't seem to leak while sitting or idling, have you checked the forks? When my fork seals needed replacing, the oil would leak out so bad while I was riding that it would actually blow back onto my shoe.

If your forks are nice and clean and the seals are good, I'd take the bike for a short ride and then have a look. Maybe you'd be able to see the leak starting to form.

I know you said "all over the right hand side of the bike" ...did you mean the whole bike or just the engine?

GeoffreyWinkleman · September 15, 2019, 02:35:47 PM

Hey! Thanks for responding to my distress call! Did t think to check the forks although the oil that leaked was dirty coloured so figured it is engine oil, I'll check the fork just in case though.

The oil was literally all over the side of the bike, I would imagine that was mainly due to the wind splattering it everywhere. Have seen other posts suggesting baby powder to identify the source so will try to give that a try.

GW

mr72 · September 16, 2019, 04:16:43 AM

Mine leaks like that, but not that much. Let it sit a long time and it'll put a dime sized drop on the ground. But when I ride, it gets oil on my right shoe and the brake lever is nearly always coated in oil. In my case it's the crankshaft seal beneath the signal generator. Surprisingly big job to replace and surprisingly didn't fix it completely. So I ignore it. I also almost never ride my GS. When I was riding it daily this tiny oil leak was super annoying.

jonno85uk · September 16, 2019, 06:01:24 AM

When I got my basket-case GS500 I had a similar issue. Oil spread up the right-hand-side of the bike. I thought it was the cylinder-head stud o-rings as I didn't replace them when fixing the top-end. Nope.

Turned out to be a split in the clutch-case cover gasket.

What the hell is with these asinine questions? 6 forms of "verification"? WTF?

What does the fuel line and air box connect to?: carbs, carb, carburettor, carburettor, no...
What liquid makes cars go in the USA?: gasoline, no. gas, yes...
What does a petcock control?: fuel, gasoline, petrol. no. gas, yes...
The electric-arc question: spark plug, spark-plug, cdi, ignition, no...
And those bloody images...

ShowBizWolf · September 16, 2019, 12:52:19 PM

Hang tight through those questions, they go away after your first 5 posts

Recently there was a large bought of spammers that came through the forum, posting advertisements and other junk. Those questions are there to block them.

Welcome to the forum and I hope you stick around!

GeoffreyWinkleman · September 17, 2019, 10:33:19 AM

UPDATE:

I used the baby powder to identify the leak and I'm 99% sure its coming from the head gasket.

Question is, how difficult is the head gasket to replace? I'm fairly handy so wouldn't mind giving it a go but won't bother if it is really one for a professional.

Cheers,
GW

ShowBizWolf · September 17, 2019, 12:23:25 PM

I've done some of the gaskets on my bike but that one isn't one of them (yet... lol) ... but when I do have to do that one, I'd search on YouTube and here in the forum for any helpful videos or threads... and also follow along in my Clymer manual.

If you don't already have one, I recommend getting a Clymer manual or a Haynes manual for your bike. It'll show you how to do almost everything!

GeoffreyWinkleman · September 17, 2019, 01:22:09 PM

Thanks, I've ordered myself a Haynes manual, hopefully it's not to much of a tough job. Would anyone recommend tightening the head bolts first prior to changing the gasket or is it a case of if it's leaking, it needs replacing?

GW

user11235813 · September 17, 2019, 09:49:14 PM

Quote from: GeoffreyWinkleman on September 17, 2019, 01:22:09 PM
Thanks, I've ordered myself a Haynes manual, hopefully it's not to much of a tough job. Would anyone recommend tightening the head bolts first prior to changing the gasket or is it a case of if it's leaking, it needs replacing?

GW

Yes I would definitely recommend backing off and tightening the head bolts, and doing it regularly, I have recently discovered that if I remove the carburettor I can leave all the cables attached and finagle them out of the way to get the valve cover off. This is a lot easier than leaving the carburettor on and removing the cables at the carburettor which is what I used to do.

mr72 · September 18, 2019, 06:50:06 AM

if the head gasket is leaking, replace. torquing head bolts is a special thing, FYI. Also, could be the cam cover gasket leaking? head gasket is lower than you might think and I think first symptoms of blown head gasket is not oil leaking but poor compression, odd noises.

you'll learn a lot replacing that head gasket tho. for that much work I'd have a hard time not doing a valve job, rings and honing the bores while I was at it. aka top end rebuild.

Bluesmudge · September 18, 2019, 05:30:16 PM

Definitely try the head bolt re-torquing first. You are supposed to do this every 4,000 miles anyways so it can't hurt.
Replacing the head gasket is involved but if you take it step by step and order all the parts and tools ahead of time its not so bad. I wouldn't do it yourself if you rely on your GS500 for daily transportation because its not a job you want to rush.

jonno85uk · September 19, 2019, 01:23:38 AM

I'd also check the cam-cover for leak first. The gasket goes hard after a while and leaks.

If you do do a head-gasket, you can get away using Permatex spray-a-gasket making sure the gasket is cleaned up well first. Additionally, replace the stud-orings at the same time, they'll most likely be rock-hard. Doing a top-end isn't that hard unless you have to fight rust.

GeoffreyWinkleman · September 19, 2019, 01:53:27 PM

Thanks for the comments! I'm going to start getting stuck in on Saturday. The leak is definitely the head gasket, I've check the cam cover gasket and it's fine. Hopefully I'll have a working sealed GS500 in a few weeks

GeoffreyWinkleman · September 21, 2019, 07:56:31 AM

Update:

I've been getting stuck in and need some more advice please! I found that in the process of removing the head bolts, the bolt that is located on the front of the engine, I think it's a 6mm bolt, was missing! Also, some of the 10mm bolts were very tight and others were very loose! With them all now removed, I've now hit a problem where I can't get the head off, it seems well and truly stuck. My question is, should I persevere and try to remove the head and replace the gasket or given that the bolts were loose, should I replace them and torque them up correctly, then rebuild the bike and hope the gasket is good? Also, does anyone know where I can get a replacement 6mm bolt for the front of the engine?

GW

tobyd · September 21, 2019, 10:03:45 AM

https://www.motorcyclespareparts.eu/en/suzuki-parts/1999-gs500e-motorcycles/cylinder-head

parts diagram - looks like part 10 is your boy. 015500630A

https://www.motorcyclespareparts.eu/en/suzuki-parts/015500630a

looks like that is the bit is on ebay for a pittance plus extortionate postage - seems it was used on all sorts of stuff so you might be able to find it packaged up with some other spare online for less and have something to resell. if you have a suzuki dealer close by then can probably obtain it without having to pay them over the odds for a crumby bolt.

If you've removed all 8 head bolts and the cams and things you should be able to gently tap the head off the barrels with a rubber or wooden mallet. crap does get down the inbetween the studs and cylinder head holes so might be jamming things up a bit. If you've gotten this far it would make sense to finish the job up properly. There is a video on youtube about a top-end rebuild thats worth a watch if its not already been mentioned.

GeoffreyWinkleman · September 21, 2019, 10:36:53 AM

Thanks Toby, I've managed to knock the head loose but the final thing I'm struggling with is removing the tacho from the engine. I've removed the bolt, is there a trick to it? Don't want to hit it in case I damage it.

GW

tobyd · September 22, 2019, 12:57:58 AM

I think you can leave bolted bit in place - you can remove the cable by loosening off the ridged bit of the end of the cable. See picture 11 on this useful guide. You might be able to leave the cable in place and remove from the instruments instead but might be a bit tight.

The bit that is bolted in can be removed but there is a seal in there that might be best left alone and its quite trying to put back in. I broke mine and had to wait about a month for a replacement to be shipped.

Whilst you are past part 1, the 4-video guide on youtube might also be worth a watch if you plan on going any deeper. Also covers setting the timing up once you reinstall the cams.

Bluesmudge · September 23, 2019, 08:11:51 AM

Order that front bolt from a local Suzuki dealer or internet parts catalogue (Bikebandit, Partzilla, etc). Same place you would order your engine gaskets/O-rings/copper washers/head bolt nuts.

I can't help with the tacho as I have an '01+ with the electronic tach.
If you don't yet have a Haynes or Clymer repair manual you should pick one up. There may be narrative in there about tricky bits like this.

GeoffreyWinkleman · October 02, 2019, 01:31:52 PM

Hi All,

I've had a nightmare! Got all the gasket and bits I needed but whilst tightening the head bolts, one of the studs snapped! I was tightening all the nuts in the correct order a bit at a time and I had 7 to the correct torque when the last of seemed to keep going then snapped!

Need some advice. Is the bike in the trash or is it salvageable? Any ideas why this particular nut didn't get to the correct torque? For reference, the manual says the max torque is 68Nm. I set my wrench to 60Nm so wasn't going to hard.

Hoping it's not time to say goodbye to the old girl

Also, how long until I can get rid of these bloody questions and Capcha! they're ridiculous!!!! How many petcocks does a newer GS! Can't ever seem to get the correct answer! Are people trying to discourage new people to the messageboard!?

GW

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Right Side Oil Leak