How much should I pay for this GS500?

[aconti2]

Hey guys!

New member here. I'm looking at purchasing a GS500 from facebook marketplace. It's a 96 and looks pretty good. The issue it has is that when you add throttle the bike either dies outright or has a rev hang for a couple seconds. The actual idle sounds pretty good.

I know it will need a little work but i'm actually looking for something I can work on a little during the winter and I heard these bikes are a great place to start. By searching here it sounds like the most probable problem might be a vacuum leak?

He has it listed as 900 obo. I was wondering how low you think a fair offer would be seeing as it'd not currently rideable. Also, are there any things I could do when I go check it out to make sure the problem is nothing more nefarious? I'm not sure if it would be appropriate to be spraying carb cleaner on his carbs before I buy the thing to confirm a vacuum leak or not.

Thanks in advance guys.

-Alex

[mr72]

Do a compression test. It should be at least 140psi both cylinders and both close to one another.

While lots of people report problems like this and others on this forum suggest it may be a vacuum leak, the truth is that vacuum leaks are very common and can cause a wide array of symptoms. So basically any running problem with a GS500 might be a vacuum leak, but it might also be a dozen other things. I would rule out a very expensive repair first by doing the compression test.

You can sort out a lot of potential issues by going through the carbs and replacing all of the o-rings, intake boot o-rings, inspect the diaphragms and replace if necessary, undo any modifications, etc. But that's kind of labor intensive and it's basically impossible to diagnose that this will be the eventual solution on a bike you are considering buying.

FWIW my GS had basically this same kind of symptom when I bought it, and I paid $800 for it about 3.5 years ago. Then I had to do a top end rebuild and replace the carburetors plus a dozen other small things before it was dependable. I probably have close to $2500 in it by now. In the end I would have been a lot better off buying one that had 1/4 the miles on it and ran right from day one even if it was twice the price.

If it is in basically mint condition besides this running issue and you have another $1K available to invest in case it needs hard engine work, then $900 is probably a fair price. If it's a beater bike and would not be worth more than $1500 if it was running 100% then I wouldn't pay more than salvage money for it... like $300-400.

[aconti2]

Ok awesome, I'll make sure to ask if I can do a compression test. I don't mind doing some carb work but I definitely don't want to bite off more than I can chew. Do you think if the compression checks out than the problem should be at least something I can handle?

[mr72]

If compression checks out then that rules out very expensive repairs. Carb cleanup and refreshing is easy and pretty cheap, if that's what the problem turns out to be. Otherwise ignition, which is also cheap. Basically everything that could likely be wrong is cheap and easy to do besides rings and valve seats. But I would budget a couple hundred dollars just in case you have to get new intake boots ($40/ea) or find a used OEM airbox, etc.

[mr72]

BTW I don't know where you are located or how much of a hurry you are in to get a GS500, but they pop up all the time in excellent condition without these issues for under $1500 in my area. You just have to be patient. Just depends on whether you want a project or something to use.

[aconti2]

BTW I don't know where you are located or how much of a hurry you are in to get a GS500, but they pop up all the time in excellent condition without these issues for under $1500 in my area. You just have to be patient. Just depends on whether you want a project or something to use.

I would actually prefer something that takes a little work to get on the road. I want to work on it with my son so he can learn to be more mechanically inclined than I was.

Its also a lot easier to to smooth over the wife on dropping 600 on a bike instead of over a grand, even if eventually the costs even out.

[Oscar_Muffin]

Same as me. I'm not happy if I buy a bike and it just works. I need to feel like I've somehow made it better. Considering mine came with a bodged carburettor, incorrectly timed exhaust camshaft, I'd say I've done well.

[aconti2]

Welp, looks like I'm a real member now.

Step one is cleaning this gas tank it's really bad. I'm not sure how it was even idling and revving on neutral. Hoping it's a case of a rusty tank gumming up the carbs.

[mr72]

Probably not. Rust in the tank can and does cause problems and clogged carbs cause issues for sure but most of that manifests as low power or bogging and stalling at high revs and under load. Seriously check the compression.

IDK about cleaning and fixing a rusted tank, but the internet is full of experts on that. But you can sort the carbs with details on my blog post from a couple of years ago: https://joshkarnes.blogspot.com/2017/09/fixing-common-gs500-carburetor-issues.html

You can run it from a remote fuel tank. You have to disconnect the fuel lines anyway to pull the tank, so while you work out the tank I'd grab any old cheap lawnmower fuel tank and hook it up with like a pint of fuel to evaluate the carbs condition.

[aconti2]

Got it! I did check the compression before purchasing. Both cylinders were right on at 150.

Also when checking it out I found out a little more about the running issue. It will rev all day in neutral.  It's only when you try and take off in gear that it bogs down. Sounds like regardless I will need to go through everything like in that blog post. Do you happen to have an updated link to pin point exactly what o rings, needle valve and pilot jet to purchase?

Also I think there may be an aftermarket needle in there. It's a sharper looking one with a C clamp at the top. Is this the part that can cause a lot of issues?

[aconti2]

A couple of things I noticed after reading your post and looking at these carbs.

The mixture was way off. Almost 5 turns on each screw. Both needle valve seat o rings have corrosion and the cavity they sit in has residue in there
One of the seats did not look sealed at all. Floats were also a tiny bit off.

All that leaves me optimistic towards a simple carb job doing the trick.

[mr72]

Sounds great. American market bikes has aluminum needles with only one groove. Aftermarket needles are often stainless steel with 4 or 5 notches for the circlip. If it has dynajet needles and jets I'd advise switching back to stock.

I don't have any updated info about o rings. A k&l carb kit has all of the o rings and float valves and seats. Cheap too. 

[aconti2]

Sounds great. American market bikes has aluminum needles with only one groove. Aftermarket needles are often stainless steel with 4 or 5 notches for the circlip. If it has dynajet needles and jets I'd advise switching back to stock.

I don't have any updated info about o rings. A k&l carb kit has all of the o rings and float valves and seats. Cheap too.

Does this kit look ok? It seems a little pricier than you suggest in your article.

https://www.bikebandit.com/aftermarket-parts/motorcycle-fuel-and-air/carb-kits-parts-accessories/k-l-economy-carburetor-repair-kit/p/18639?m=139235

[mr72]

Bike Bandit will be among the most expensive places. You can run the gamut of price/quality/trust from ebay, example:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2X-Carburetor-carb-Repair-Rebuild-Kit-SUZUKI-1989-2000-GS500-GS-500-GS500E-US/283567149274?_trkparms=aid%3D555018%26algo%3DPL.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20131003132420%26meid%3Dd41e4a5751734d8b8f5fad2408af3e58%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D12%26mehot%3Dco%26sd%3D382889026580%26itm%3D283567149274%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851

What's wrong with the link in my blog?

http://www.thisoldtractor.com/for_sale_dr350_orings.html

you can get the o-rings one at a time there and then just order float valves and seats from ebay or Amazon. That way you can get viton o-rings for all of the fuel-exposed areas. And they are really cheap this way. Or you can buy a cheap pair of rebuild kits from eBay and select viton o-rings from thisoldtractor.com (pilot needle, float seat, etc.) to supplement. Still whole enchilada under $40 for both sides any way you go for it. While you have it apart, good idea to go ahead and replace the intake boot o-rings. They are probably shot.

[aconti2]

Bike Bandit will be among the most expensive places. You can run the gamut of price/quality/trust from ebay, example:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2X-Carburetor-carb-Repair-Rebuild-Kit-SUZUKI-1989-2000-GS500-GS-500-GS500E-US/283567149274?_trkparms=aid%3D555018%26algo%3DPL.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20131003132420%26meid%3Dd41e4a5751734d8b8f5fad2408af3e58%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D12%26mehot%3Dco%26sd%3D382889026580%26itm%3D283567149274%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851

What's wrong with the link in my blog?

http://www.thisoldtractor.com/for_sale_dr350_orings.html

you can get the o-rings one at a time there and then just order float valves and seats from ebay or Amazon. That way you can get viton o-rings for all of the fuel-exposed areas. And they are really cheap this way. Or you can buy a cheap pair of rebuild kits from eBay and select viton o-rings from thisoldtractor.com (pilot needle, float seat, etc.) to supplement. Still whole enchilada under $40 for both sides any way you go for it. While you have it apart, good idea to go ahead and replace the intake boot o-rings. They are probably shot.

Ok sounds good, does that site not have the float bowl gaskets or am I missing that?

[mr72]

I haven't ordered them from that site. All of even the cheapest kits have float bowl gaskets. I haven't replaced mine. One leaks, so one of these days, I'll replace it.

[cbrfxr67]

Love seeing me a resurrected GS!  Any pics of this??  Rusty tank,... I've found dawn w vinegar 50/50 will clean it up nicely.
Hope to read more of your GS experience!

[aconti2]

Love seeing me a resurrected GS!  Any pics of this??  Rusty tank,... I've found dawn w vinegar 50/50 will clean it up nicely.
Hope to read more of your GS experience!

Once I get through these impossible security questions that don't have answers i'll be able to post more from my phone with pics!

Could you give me a quick rundown of your process? I tried vinegar but wasn't able to seal the tank holes well enough, and while I was able to shake out a lot of the rust flakes leaving it sitting left me with some surface rust since it leaked out eventually. How do you plug the holes?

ALSO, while going through the carbs they don't look too bad. I wonder if the problem is actually something silly like the kickstand safety switch. I feel like that would make a lot of sense since you can rev all day in neutral but dies when you try and take off in gear. Nevertheless I ordered those O rings and will be cleaning and replacing, setting back to spec, hopefully getting that tank decent and seeing what happens this weekend!

[cbrfxr67]

i just put some vacuum caps on the 'holes.'  Or just turn it upside down if your cap doesnt leak.  I don't really measure it too scientifically.  Dump vinegar in, squeeze off a load of dawn and fill it up with water and let it sit for a couple hours.  Dump enough out to where I can handle it and shake the shazam out of it.  I drop die grinder wire brushes in it while I'm shaking it. Some people like nuts and bolts, maybe a chain but bolts etc are too hard to get out and I don't want any dents from a chain.  Rinse and repeat.
Here's a gsxr1000 tank I did a few months back,..clicky for bigger

after

I think I did it three times.  It probably would have kept cleaning up the more I did it but I felt this was good enough.  Dawn & Vinegar was recommended to me by a guy that takes on a local dealership's work from customers who bring them old bikes.  They don't want to mess with any of the old stuff so they send it all to him.

[mr72]

Could you give me a quick rundown of your process? I tried vinegar but wasn't able to seal the tank holes well enough, and while I was able to shake out a lot of the rust flakes leaving it sitting left me with some surface rust since it leaked out eventually. How do you plug the holes?[/quote

Just to be clear, are you saying there are RUST HOLES in the tank? or talking about sealing off the petcock hole?

ALSO, while going through the carbs they don't look too bad. I wonder if the problem is actually something silly like the kickstand safety switch. I feel like that would make a lot of sense since you can rev all day in neutral but dies when you try and take off in gear.

So no matter what it "just dies" if you release the clutch? Tried this with the bike on a center stand? I mean, this is very dangerous so be quite careful, but if the rear tire is in the air you should be able to release the clutch with it in gear and the side stand up and ensure the safety interlocks are not malfunctioning. Otherwise you can hotwire the clutch switch and be sure that that is not causing the problem.

Side stand switch has a relay and also there's a diode pack to do the switch logic between the side stand, neutral and clutch switches. Get a wiring diagram and study it. You can easily jumper the connector to the side stand switch to make it think side stand is always up.

You need to determine whether it's that it dies when under load or if it dies when clutch out and in gear and side stand up.