R6 2008 shock fitment issue

[johnny ro]

The bike is a 1989 GS500E. The swingarm looks like would need to be trimmed by a whole lot to get this thing in there. Looks like a half inch is needed, can't get the front bolt on the lower shock pivot to line up with frame. The shock measures 46mm wide across the springs, OEM is 36mm on my cheap caliper. Thoughts?

Am I worrying too much, just raise the rear tire and it will come into alignment and the bolts snap in?

Trying to figure out posting a pic, the phone takes 3.5 meg pics

[johnny ro]

ok here is the pic, both wheels on ground, center stand down.

[johnny ro]

another side by side

[The Buddha]

Yea I never liked the R6 shock - maybe because I did most of my work on a 89 - like yours with that aluminum knuckle.

On an 89 or aluminum knuckle bike - you cant fit anything other Kat 600, 750 pre 96, GSXR 750/1100 87-95. An RF600 or 900 I don't remmeber.

In any case, you need a steel knuckle off anything other than an 89 GS.
Then you grind a notch in the thing to let the knuckle bend up further and then the dogbone bolt holes will get in line with the bolt.

Cool.
Srinath.

[johnny ro]

Hi Buddha, thanks very much. Where do I grind my future steel knuckle? I remember the 89-2001 manual shows a steel knuckle not aluminum.

I see them cheap on Ebay, should I get them with the dogbones? OK I see part Dogbone 62641-01D02 fits all years. OK the Cushion Lever cost me $9.55 shipped, arrive for next weekend.

Thanks again for amazing support.

John

[The Buddha]

Put the knuckle on the shock and tip it into the position where it would be when its in the bike.
Mark that contact point on the knuckle and grind it there. That steel knuckle is very very strong so no worries about grinding off too much. The aluminum knuckle is much lighter but not as over built as the steel one.
Dogbones are fine - not required to be swapped out. Just look for the cheapest knuckle.

Cool.
Srinath.

[ShowBizWolf]

Having done the R6 shock swap a few years ago on my '98, it was a direct swap as long as you use the R6's lower nut, bolt and spacer/sleeve.

I did not have to grind anything off the swing-arm or notch the GS's linkage.

In order to get everything to line up, I loosened the linkage bolt where it attaches to the bike. Have a 2nd person lift/lower the rear wheel while you lay under the bike lining everything up.

If I'm understanding your post/question correctly, you're attempting to install the R6 shock with its lower bits I mentioned, but everything else (dogbones, linkage) stock GS parts?

I'm aware of the earlier style GS linkage... I'm guessing because it's shaped a bit different, that's the reason for the notch needing to be cut? That'd make sense (although it sure would be a pita lol) !! But if you get the later steel style (like mine) I'd imagine you wouldn't have to modify anything on it.

Are you following the pictures from the wiki by chance?

[johnny ro]

Having done the R6 shock swap a few years ago on my '98, it was a direct swap as long as you use the R6's lower nut, bolt and spacer/sleeve.

I did not have to grind anything off the swing-arm or notch the GS's linkage.

In order to get everything to line up, I loosened the linkage bolt where it attaches to the bike. Have a 2nd person lift/lower the rear wheel while you lay under the bike lining everything up.

If I'm understanding your post/question correctly, you're attempting to install the R6 shock with its lower bits I mentioned, but everything else (dogbones, linkage) stock GS parts?

I'm aware of the earlier style GS linkage... I'm guessing because it's shaped a bit different, that's the reason for the notch needing to be cut? That'd make sense (although it sure would be a pita lol) !! But if you get the later steel style (like mine) I'd imagine you wouldn't have to modify anything on it.

If this works out, I would mail the aluminum one to you, so you can check it out. Snail mail. Wait a week and let me know....if the prettier part belongs on any bike it is yours, which is really nice.

Are you following the pictures from the wiki by chance?

Hi SBW,  Thanks for your help and question. Yes you summarize correctly.

I have the aluminum cushion damper rocker arm: unlike you, I have the UR-GS500. Yours is steel, not being 1989. Yours is made of tougher stuff and has smaller outside dimensions, alluded to by Srikanth Buddha above. My much more attractive rocker arm BTW is no longer listed as a part # on Bike Bandit.   

I watched the video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a_0gnFaONfY&feature=youtu.be and he has the steel rocker arm and is barefoot in his garage. I wear shoes and gloves in the shop.

My new, less attractive (cast aluminum is prettier than stamped steel with rough edges), cheaper ($9 and change, shipped) rocker arrives Thursday. The saga to be continued. My best guess is the hole to hole dimensions are the same, and I hope that is true.

I already have my moneys worth out of this bike looking at it and working on it. The rest is a bonus. 

[The Buddha]

That's Srinath Buddha LOL.
But the 89 frame is also a unique one with a lot of things that are harder to access including the removable frame rail that the moved to the left in the later years.
Anyway There are people who have had the shock hit the swingarm as well. The piggy back reservoir also precludes the airbox doesn't it. I really would not run anything other than the air/oil/first gen water GSXR and Katana family of shocks and BTW there is the grinding required for that as well. You really need what is called a deep clevise kat/GSXR shock. I think the 88 Kat 750 was not deep clevise - which weirdly will fit the 89 aluminum knuckle just fine - its clevise is the same depth as the 89 GS shock. RF and bandit shocks work but then again they're just variations on the GSXR stuff.
The R6 stuff is well IMHO more work than needed and its not a better shock on the GS than a Kat/GSXR.
In fact the Kat 600 shock as well as the first gen slingshot shocks get you a great suspension without jacking the back end up so much it looks comical and leans over on the side stand to the point of looking like its gonna tip over and doesn't sit on the center stand cos the tires are both touching the ground.
You ideally want the same static - unloaded height. That way it doesn't lean too much on the stand etc etc.
The GS shock sags 2-3" when you sit on it. A better shock would basically just sag 1-1.5". As in the higher ride height will be when loaded, and the more you load up, the higher it sits relative to the GS.

Cool.
Buddha.

[ShowBizWolf]

Awesome info Buddha! I don't know every difference about the '89s.

I ended up grinding some metal off the swing-arm when I attempted the 1" raising links with the R6 shock. Really wasn't happy with the result and ended up selling the R6 and going with the SV650. I get asked on the fb group why I switched and got rid of the R6... everybody seems to prefer that one for all the adjustments (and how fancy it looks lol!)

[Bluesmudge]

I really like my Katana 600 shock. Direct fit and it somehow seems appropriate to stick with a Suzuki part.
I didn't realize there were so many changes between the 1989 and 1990 GS500. I only knew about the aluminum knuckle and the clip-on bars.

Let me know if you want to sell that aluminum knuckle. I always need some extra bling for my 2006.

[Meukowi]

points to gsx600 shock (katana in us), direct fit and made the bouncy gs feel like a real sports bike, lol.

[The Buddha]

The shocks are all showa or Kayaba. LOL. But yea made to Suzuki's spec.
Back in the day all Honda were showa, Kawi's were all kayaba, Suzuki was showa for their more sporty bikes (GSXR750) and kayaba for the less hyper ones (GSXR1100). LOL.
Cool.
Srinath.