Cam Chain Tensioner Info

[chris900f]

Hey there, I bought a 2005 F that had been stored for a long while. I'm hearing some chain slap or clatter (at low rpm once warmed up) even though it is not finished break-in yet. The sound is not constant and quickly disappears as you give it throttle. The bike runs quite well otherwise, so I'm thinking the cam-chain tensioner is just dead from sitting for 15 years. I have a Haynes manual on order from amazon but I won't get it for a while; so I was hoping someone could answer a few questions:

1) Is it ok to just remove the unit for inspection?

2) Is there a general recommendation regarding manual aftermarket vs auto-stock unit?

Thanks in advance!

[Sporty]

Shop manual
http://forum.gs500.pl/ftp/Studi/Suzuki_GS_500_E_F_1989-2009_Service_Manual.pdf

[user11235813]

Won't hurt to take the tensioner out and oil it up and inspect it for free movement. From memory it will be easier with the carbs and airbox out of the way. Might wanna pick up a new gasket and maybe a new rubber dome cap where you put the screwdriver, they tend to disintegrate after this much time.

[Bluesmudge]

If you are worried about the automatic tensioner (there have been a few cases of failure over the years), the A.P.E. manual cam chain tensioner for a 1st gen Hayabusa fits the GS500. I've been using one at least 20,000 miles after having the watch spring on my OEM tensioner pop out when I was inspecting it. It seemed like an overly complicated thing for such a simple job so I went with the manual version.

Is there any disadvantage to a manual cam chain tensioner, so long as you are checking the tension every valve check?

[Joolstacho]

Having coped with major engine damage caused by a defective tensioner, (Previous owner) I wouldn't hesitate - just fit a new Suzuki one, don't risk it!

[chris900f]

Thanks for all your replies:

I'm not sure if the tensioner is the problem. Started it up and rode around the block a few times today. The noise comes on once the engine is warm, and only at idle/low rpm. It isn't a continuous noise, more of a faint light tink/tink/tink/tink usually 3 or 4 in a row, then it goes away for several cycles and then repeats. It seems to come from the right lower side, but very hard to tell exactly.
Tonight I got a screwdriver into the tensioner and was able to wind it. It takes a fair amount on effort of retract the spring. I pulled it out and let it snap back into place. It doesn't feel like it returns all that fast, but the spring pressure is there. I did this a few times then the same way but slowly winding back the tensioner into position instead of letting it go. I'll try again tomorrow and see if it made any difference

My worst suspicion is that when the PO started the bike after years of storage the bearings took some damage. The bike starts and runs well. I'm still keeping it under 5500rpm but it does great on short highway runs. It is OK in town but has a bit of a dead spot off idle. It turns out the last gen Canadian bikes were California spec, so it has the 5 degrees @ idle instead of the normal 12 degrees @ idle ECU, I ordered a replacement off Ebay (from the good ol' USA.

I may run by Suzuki tomorrow and see I can get a yay or nay on the tensioner diagnosis. I'm little more resistant to tearing into this bike since it is new to me, but it would be nice if it's just a  simple R&R.

[Sporty]

Bearings don't go "tink, tink".

On the right side (sitting on the bike), there is the signal generator, the clutch, starter drive, and more.

I'd suggest that you listen with a mechanics stethoscope (or a long screwdriver held to ear and the case) try to find the location of the noise

[chris900f]

So after having "exercised" the adjuster last night, the sound has changed today. The "tink-tink" sound is gone. Since the sound changed quite a bit after playing with the tensioner, I'm leaning toward a tensioner problem, but the location is down low by the clutch. I Did a long warm-up and went for a short ride. There is never a problem during warm-up. No issues when riding. After riding, idling on the stand the bike makes a cyclical clank every 20 or so cycles: it's on the right side. It's not loud but you can feel it thru the bars. I tried to get a video but was having trouble with my camera. Let the bike sit an hour and tried again. No noise at start-up, but after a quick ride I recorded this:

 

I was unable to capture the "clank" I described. This noise is with the bike in gear. (Sounds like a clutch in the video?) Oh well let me know what you think
Thx

[herennow]

google the known cam sghaft walking knock that we have all had heart attacks about at one point or another.

[chris900f]

google the known cam shaft walking knock that we have all had heart attacks about at one point or another.

Thanks, I think this is it, as leaning the bike to the left quiets it down, and my engine number is in the affected range, re: service bulletin.

It's a relief because winter is here, below freezing today and snow in the forecast. It will  probably be too cold to start the bike (even in the garage) by tomorrow(10/40 Dino).
So now at least I won't be stewing over it for the next five months

I read the service bulletin, gotta say it's a little disappointing as a new owner...you get to explain to people, "no, no, its OK,  it's supposed to do that."

Question for Bluesmudge: After investigating the stock CCT, I really think the APE unit is better. Is it pre-2008 regular unit or Pro unit. I like the Pro unit that adjusts with the center allen head, as opposed to the bolt-end style. Has anyone tried the Pro unit?