Valve clearances increased dramatically after cleaning shims

[herennow]

Use engineers blue (or a magic marker in a pinch). Takes 10 minutes to check!

[Frankiechops]

Engineers blue on the valve and see if it transfers evenly to the seat?

[chris900f]

Yes

[The Buddha]

I also would have an engine mechanic look at the contact ring, or wait a sec, the factory or haynes or some ding dang manual has the drawings of what contact ring should look like.
My engine guy sort of hits in place - think the bike is running 12k revs. The valve slams into the seat 6K a minute. So slam it in there like it is if it was hitting it 100 times a second.
Cool.
Buddha.

[Frankiechops]

Hey All! I'm back on the road! Thanks to all that took the time to comment and offer advice. Thought I sum up for anyone interested.

I ended using the 2003 head and cams as I discovered I had cracked the valve guides on the 2010 head when I bent the valves. It's a fair bit noisier with the cam walk rattle when it warms up, but other than that it's running great. I might try the 2010 cams in there at some stage. I didn't get the valves and seats cut, I just lapped them with compound. I got a decent enough seal but in hindsight I suspect that may be contributing somewhat to the increase in noise. I may look at doing that at a later date but I was impatient to get back on the road. As annoying as my initial mistake was I've actually enjoyed the learning experience.

Thanks all 👍

[herennow]

Nice one. Enjoy the ride

[The Buddha]

Nice work. Enjoy. Couple things though. Cam walk wont happen just cos you lapped the valves instead of cutting seats etc. And cams aren't interchangeable with heads. You have to keep them together cos they wear together. The cam walk problem can be solved with washers they sell for that purpose but the thinnest they sell is 1mm, I'll bet its nowhere near 1mm. Just ignore till it gets to that 1mm+ thickness. Where you can install that washer.

Cool.
Buddha.

[chris900f]

Hey All! I'm back on the road! Thanks to all that took the time to comment and offer advice. Thought I sum up for anyone interested.

I ended using the 2003 head and cams as I discovered I had cracked the valve guides on the 2010 head when I bent the valves. It's a fair bit noisier with the cam walk rattle when it warms up, but other than that it's running great. I might try the 2010 cams in there at some stage. I didn't get the valves and seats cut, I just lapped them with compound. I got a decent enough seal but in hindsight I suspect that may be contributing somewhat to the increase in noise. I may look at doing that at a later date but I was impatient to get back on the road. As annoying as my initial mistake was I've actually enjoyed the learning experience.

Thanks all 👍

Good job doing the work yourself and getting back on the road.

You can check your part numbers to verify whether or not you can use the 2010 cams in the 2003 head (I think you can)
Here's a clip from the manual. The original cams that end in -01830/-01840 were discontinued after the 2005 model year,
so the backwards-compatibility likely extends to the 2003 models; (since that was the first year with the electronic-tach.)

[Frankiechops]

I may not have been successful as I first thought 🙁

The ticking I'm not overally fussed about. But I've got a more worrying noise that has become more prominent. It's hard to label but I'd say it's a 'buffeting rattle.' it's dependent on revs, mostly below 4.5k, and much louder when moving as opposed to just revving at a standstill. It's coming from the top end area. I've checked the manifold seal and if seems good. I resused the old manifold gasket, but added some gasket sealer just to be sure. Exhaust valves are set at 0.1 and intake 0.08

Any thoughts on what I should look at? My sneaking suspicion is the valves aren't sealing properly.

Just a recap: the bike was running 100% before I bent the valves with a half arsed attempt to change the shims without the tool. It's done under 10k km.

Buddha, I replaced a whole new (used) head unit, hence introducing the cam walk noise I didn't have before as it had the spring washers on my previous cams.

Chris, after looking into it, the new cams with spring washers appear to be backwards compatible earlier than 2003, as long as you have a wheel Speedo


Thanks all 👍

[chris900f]

You can mostly rule out the valve seal by doing a compression test. It's the easiest to check so you might want to do it first.

If the compression is ok, pull the valve cover off and have a look. Check the bolts on the cam-caps and the cam-chain tension
and you might as well re-torque the cylinder-head nuts while you have the cover off.

Good luck and keep us posted.

[Frankiechops]

Okay thanks, I'll get a compression tester tomorrow and give it a go. I ended up putting the 2010 cam shafts in today so I re-did the timing, checked the chain tensioner and re torqued the caps. I didn't re torque the cylinder head nuts but they were all tight.

[Frankiechops]

Oh, I should say that the bike ran fine with the new cams, no cam walk at idle now. Still the valve ticking and the disturbing sound though

[Frankiechops]

Would having the 'steel wool' filter of the breather cover in the wrong position be giving me trouble? This pic is a screen capture from the BaltimoreGS video showing it in the half closest the breather tube. I had mine in the other half furthest from the breather, therefore over the holes in the gasket. Sounds too easy. I'll test it out tomorrow

[The Buddha]

That steel wool basically cuts down on the blow by that can end up in the airbox. Not related to noisy valve train/engine.
Find out where the noise is coming from.
Cool.
Buddha.

[Frankiechops]

100 psi both cylinders. As per the Haynes manual I put a little oil in and checked again. No difference, so that's something. I guess the head is coming off again   

[The Buddha]

Low compression causing a rattle ? I cant imagine that, I've ridden a 100 psi compression motor for a looooong looooong time. Its just down on power up high, that's all.
You're going to have to diagnose it and not start taking stuff off at random. Is it top end or bottom end that's got the noise ?
Could it be clutch basket ? Starter clutch and rotor ?
Cool.
Buddha.

[Frankiechops]

I'm operating on the basis that the only thing I've changed since it was running perfectly the top end.

I'm struggling to give the noise a name but rattle probably isn't it. Maybe an 'angry gurgle'? It isn't prominent just revving at a stand still, only under load when engine breaking or going up through the gears. I can't guarantee it's not coming from somewhere else but that's my feeling. I'll investigate further before taking any drastic measures.

Cheers

[mr72]

Well, I think I recall a suggestion that the valve seats and rings get done while the head was off...

At least you know the r&r process now, so I'm sure it'll be quick for you to get it rocking. I don't practice what I preach, BTW. The way you're doing it is what I always do, regardless of what I say you should do

[The Buddha]

Valve seats cant rattle. But maybe you've got a piston slap type of noise you're hearing. That is an extra noise a good motor wont make.
Cool.
Buddha.

[moe_tunes]

Personally I would start off with checking and reinstalling the cam chain tensioner.

Best of luck with it.