2007 GS fuse box location

[TassieGS]

Hi I have no foot pedal brake light, and no tail light and no front parking light, I do have instrument lights and headlight though. The brake light works if I use the front brake lever. I had a look and can't see a fuse box anywhere. Just Answer reckons it's near the battery, possibly behind one of the seat cowls, but I can't see anything that resembles a fuse box on either side. The bike came in pretty rough shape and has been off the road for some time. I'm just in the process of fixing it up. Engine starts and runs fine. Trying to avoid a mech as I'm already in pretty deep financially after discovering some pretty major hidden problems that have already set me back a lot more than I expected and I still need the forks rebuilt with new springs.

[DarkCyDE]

I hate to break the bad news to you. There is no fuse block. there is a 20a on the starter relay. its all point to point wiring.

1> First your brake issue. Down by the rear brake there is a black spring loaded switch. it has two wires. take the connectors apart for both wires and test the switch with a multimeter. connect the leads and manually operate the switch with your hand. If you have continuity, then its an adjustment to the switch height.

Nex issue (parking lights) Ive never used them. They only work when the ignition switch is in park. If not working, start with the bulbs. if they check out, your going to have to trace it. Youll need a manual. Im sure you can either find one here or look on Goggle for the wiring diagram for your year. If you need help with it. post up. we will get to you.

Mike

[TassieGS]

Thanks heaps, that explains why I couldn't find it. I will delve a little deeper. I may need to invest in a manual.

[TassieGS]

So I did some basic testing, I have no power on the brown wire at all even up near the battery. I don't have power at the park bulb either and that's including neutral. I do have a headlight, hi and lo.

I did fit a new ignition switch, given to me by the PO as the old one was busted. Could the issue could be related to the ignition switch? I believe it was one from eBay.

[TassieGS]

So, if I run a live wire to the brake light connector under the seat I have both parker bulb and taillight coming on. From some Google results I'm starting to suspect the issue could be the ignition switch? I hope but it would make sense as it something that was replaced.

[TassieGS]

So the tail and parking light issue seems to be the switch. If I run a live wire to the connector at on the tail of the ignition switch I have both parker and taillights. I now need to figure out a solution. I'm not confident at dismantling the switch myself. 

[Armandorf]

get the wiring diagram, so you know how the switch works, it changes between years for parking, because it is only for US models. Even the harness could not have the parking wire if the key lock switch was changed

[TassieGS]

So after reading a wiring diagram and I discovered my bike doesn't have a grey ignition wire, instead it has a thin orange wire on the factory harness, one of two, with the other being thicker. I played around with jumper leads to test how a repin would go and no success. If I swap over the pins from the ignition and tail/parking lights I get lights but no ignition and vice versa. After about 5hrs of trying different things and time on the Net the only solution I have that has worked is a jumper wire. This is just temporary to see what works. I'm thinking there is an issue inside the switch that is causing the wire meant for the lights to be dead. I assume I now need to see an auto electrician and have him make me a permanent solution by connecting both the ignition pin wire and the lights pin wire together on the same pin?

[DarkCyDE]

It sounds like you have the wrong switch. I also am a bit lost with why you dont have a grey wire. I need to do some reading.maybe Armendorf understands that one better than I. Im only guessing, it might be a {CAN} bike or loom?  Ill do some reading and get back to you.

[TassieGS]

It sounds like you have the wrong switch. I also am a bit lost with why you dont have a grey wire. I need to do some reading.maybe Armendorf understands that one better than I. Im only guessing, it might be a {CAN} bike or loom?  Ill do some reading and get back to you.

My bike doesn't have a grey wire it has a thin orange wire instead. Possibly not updated on some manuals wiring diagrams. I spoke to a bloke who was thinking that wire was supposed to be grey as well. But he went digging and found out some models have two orange wires, one thick and one thin and no grey.

The switch was meant to be for a 2007 GS, the tank cap fitted as did the seat lock, it all came as a bundle. My thoughts are is that there should be power on all four wires with the ignition on. Even if the switch was wrong to me there seems no reason for there to be a cable coming from the switch that is not active.

The problem one that connects to the brown/taillight wire has no power coming out of it, no matter what position the key is in. It works with the jumper as does the parking light with the ignition switched to on but again only with the jumper lead installed.

[DarkCyDE]

in a normal loom like in the aus model just connects brown and grey wire together off sight from the ign. I wired mine that way because i use a remote start. look under your tank and see if you find it there. Its a two lead connector.
just spit balling at this point. Im not the gs electrical expert.
also I was incorrect: CAN uses the grey as well.

[TassieGS]

in a normal loom like in the aus model just connects brown and grey wire together off sight from the ign. I wired mine that way because i use a remote start. look under your tank and see if you find it there. Its a two lead connector.
just spit balling at this point. Im not the gs electrical expert.
also I was incorrect: CAN uses the grey as well.

This is how I can make everything work. I'm now thinking I might need to see an auto electrician to see if they can make this jumper permanent.

Ok I can't post an image it seems unless I join a photo hosting site? 

[Armandorf]

mm, i think you are over complicating this. Post your details, i am sure we can figure this out.
Post pictures of your switch, colors and diagrams, even if the color changed, if it is connected to the same things, we can assume is the parkingn wire on the harness/loom.

Your issue reminds me , that i also have a key switch with parking position, but it doesnt fully work, never bothered because i changed the loom and key switch from ebay, and are from different years.
I have thought about having blinkers as emergency light on parking mode also.That kind of ideas that usually are never done. But i think we could try to understand and isolate parking circuit.

At first there should not be nothing wrong with your switch. I will check diagrams and get back, see if some has other orange for parking that is usually grey. i also have to check on my gs.

What do you want to be active on parking?

[Armandorf]

For 90-96:

Parking position connects RED to BROWN.
brown sends +12v from red(battery fuse) to + of tail lights and "sidelight" that is tiny position light for front when LO beam is not mandatory and you have a switch to turn it off.
BROWN only for LO lights.

ON position does the same to lit the lights but FROM GREY (that is also fed by  ORANGE, that is fed from fused RED)


ON position connects:

RED to ORANGE(SIDESTAND RELAY,ignition,sidestand relay,coils,oil pressure switch,neutral light,horn, front and rear brake switch, everithing feeds from this orange

GREY(is fed by orange) to BROWN(LO lights)

GREY in the loom enables speedo ilumination, reinforces hi/lo beam current capacity adding another wire and returns via speedo hi oo beam indicators to ground ,using other cables.

The only GREY cable on 90-96 goes from ignition to speedo.
GREY(dies) goes to the RIGHT handle bar light switch(starter) meets with orange and a YELLOW WHITE (this fixed bridge is the fixed switch for US models that cant turn of LO beam)comes out to the other LEFT handle bar switch(HI(yellow)-LO(white) to HEADLIGHTS and hi beam speedo indicator.

that is for older harness. does not differ much in new ones, get the haynes version that has colors.

[TassieGS]

All good I have to cut the wire on the switch, for the lights and join it into the wire for the instruments/ignition. When I piggy back this same thing everything works. Unfortunately I have a partiality faulty switch. I don't have a grey wire I have two orange wires. Not all models got the grey wire.

[TassieGS]

I will post a pic later when I get the switch back. Basically I have to connect the ignition/instrument circuit into the parking light circuit. This then makes everything work as it should.

[Armandorf]

That is not the original keylock switch..the connector is supposed to be green, same as the loom.
Your picture doesnt show the loom colors.

There is many kind of key lock switchs, mainly simple and double switches.

I am lost at your objective right now,to put it on the On position emulate a healthy switch with two jumper wires and nothing more, as the diagram shows.

use a multimeter to test if your switch is somewhat compatible if not buy the correct one and dont give it more thought

[TassieGS]

That is not the original keylock switch..the connector is supposed to be green, same as the loom.
Your picture doesnt show the loom colors.

There is many kind of key lock switchs, mainly simple and double switches.

I am lost at your objective right now,to put it on the On position emulate a healthy switch with two jumper wires and nothing more, as the diagram shows.

use a multimeter to test if your switch is somewhat compatible if not buy the correct one and dont give it more thought

Yeah, basically I have a jump wire making this switch work, I will post another pic when I get it back today as I think he has done the mod to effectively do what I need but probably not the same way my test wire was fitted.

I've already sunk about $500 into a bike I paid $1700 for, that when finished is worth $2500 tops. I still have to spend another $600 getting the forks rebuilt after just shelling out $200 for new Chinese tubes. Then I have to drop close to $500 on tyres.

I would have to find a SH factory ignition switch, a seat lock and tank cap, these are hard to find and are very expensive, as wreckers won't break these parts up, so you have to buy the whole tank, the whole seat lock mechanism as well and the ignition lock, and would most likely require rekeying at $80 each, money I just can not justify now as I'm already in way too deep on this build and I still need to buy more parts not mentioned. Making this switch work is the only economical alternative I have. The auto electrician who did the mod to the ignition switch said this is the go.

No offence but it's easy to tell someone to drop $500 on parts when it's not your money. I have seen it happen a lot on forums. I now need to make savings where I can, providing it's safe to do so or the bike will never be on the road. 

[TassieGS]

This is how it turned out in the end. Without unwrapping it I don't know exactly what he did but the end result was what I needed, and for just $20 I'm happy it's sorted. I now have both the taillight and the front parker on when the ignition is on. Oil light goes out with engine running, and everything is working as it should. Next thing to tackle will be the rear brake switch. That might get looked at tonight or it might be a job for tomorrow. 

[TassieGS]

1> First your brake issue. Down by the rear brake there is a black spring loaded switch. it has two wires. take the connectors apart for both wires and test the switch with a multimeter. connect the leads and manually operate the switch with your hand. If you have continuity, then its an adjustment to the switch height.

Thank Mike. I was able to add some tension to the the spring by winding up the switch. This seems to have done the trick. I could be wrong but I think it was too loose and wasn't staying in firmly in place inside the locking ring.