Guys, I recently had a starting problem which finally led to the following,
Quote from: astroaru on June 16, 2008, 07:37:38 PM
(http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/nn242/astroaru/IMG_4627.jpg)
It is clear that I need to get the rotor assembly out of the crank shaft. I read the haynes and clymer manual and there are three options:
1) Get some damn suzuki special tools which is not an option
2) Get a M14x1.5 mm bolt and 36 mm spacer. I am planning on going to CarQuest and checking out if they have it.
3) Get a car dent puller and thread the ends with a die to 14x1.5.(stalwart's method).
2 and 3 seem feasible right now. 2 seems to be the cheapest though.
Has anyone had any success in doing it by method 2.
Any recommendations, suggestions, options ? I am going mad here. :mad:
If someone has already made a custom tool in the San Diego area, Can I rent it out for a day or so. :cheers:
When I had my cover off, it seems the part of the crank right behind the bolt your loosening had flat sections that you should be able to put a wrench on in order to stop it from rotating? Any auto parts store should have an extra long wrench you can lock on that with and loosen the outside bolt.
Well the problem is not about getting the head bolt off. I have a 19mm socket and a wrench to do that. Higher gear plus rear brakes should help in keeping it from rotating (I hope :laugh:).
The issue is in getting the rotor off.
There are specific flywheel pullers available to suit the GS5 rotor if you search for them and are prepared to pay the cost, or you can try the slide-hammer method as advocated by Starwalt (and Suzuki in the service manual) or source a bolt and spacer, its really up to you. Each method is as effective as the others, its whatever you find the most economic and convenient. As a one-off the bolt/spacer method will be easiest and cheapest so long as you are careful not to damage the retaining bolt hole and its thread during the process. I find pullers the easiest and most effective but I have access to a universal kit (like the one below) via my bike clubs tool bank.
(http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd92/iainmcdermott/pullerkit.jpg)
The manual recomends a sliding hammer instead of bearing up against the crank inside the rotor. I used a front axle form a vulcan and made a big heavy weight with a handle and used it.
I'll gladly ship it to you if you'll ship it back, its doing nothing but collecting dust and falling on my foot once in a while ... OK yesterday ...
Cool.
Buddha.
I modified a dent puller to work as a bona fide slide hammer. CLICK HERE (http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=13774.msg119164#msg119164)
It was a one bump removal experience that took 8 hours to make the tool. :laugh:
I now have a lathe and a mini mill to make the next one easier to do. :laugh:
Check to make sure your starter clutch is OK while you are in there. That's why I made my slide hammer and the result of the seized starter clutch is in my avatar.
I could also lend mine for shipping and return.
it is pretty surprising that no one has employed the spacer&bolt method. :2guns:
I did a good round up of all the hardware shops around my area. It looks like the M14x1.5mmx4inches bolt is a completely non-standard entity that is unheard of. Also, I wouldn't want to mess around with the threads in the crank shaft area. A small mistake and I will be doomed.
Sledge: I dont have access to such fancy gadgets :oops:
Buddha&Stalwart: Many many thanks for the sweet offer. :cheers: I will pm you guys tonight asking for more details. I will be borrowing it from one of you. :thumb:
Stalwart: I have been reading your thread for a long while now. yes, Once I get the assembly out, I will be inspecting the starter clutch, driven gear, etc, etc and everything around it. I wouldn't want to blow up my starter motor :icon_razz:
OK fine I have to put pics up to compete huh ...
Cool.
Buddha.
i just got my manual in the mail today and it states the rear axle is the proper thread and pitch once you get the crank bolt out. Put a large washer on the end and a weight around the axle then you can thread it into the hole where the crank bolt was, and you have a homemade puller tool:
|
==========[w]=|D
|
the "=" is the axle
the [w] is the weight that slides up the axle
the | is a large washer the weight can hit to pop the rotor off.
Shouldn't be to difficult if you can understand what I'm trying to draw?
Nick
That is exactly what I made, except I used a vulcan front axle - same thread as GS rear possibly.
Cool.
Buddha.
I ended up using a bolt and spacer with a strap wrench to hold the rotor still. I tried to put it in gear and brace the rear wheel, but the clutch slipped before the bolt would move. I also tried a slide hammer first, but that rotor was on there TIGHT! Anyway, I got pictures if anyone wants a writeup.
Quote from: utgunslinger13 on June 19, 2008, 10:13:50 PM
==========[w]=|D
|
Shouldn't be to difficult if you can understand what I'm trying to draw?
Nick: so you are asking me to go and make a slide-hammer. It does not look difficult, but my mo-bike is already naked. The valve covers are out, the left side crank case cover is out too. I dont want to get the rear wheel out. :oops: Let something be intact. Moreover, this is not some tool that I will need all the time. It happens once in a blue moon unless the gods decide otherwise.
Buddha: Ya looks like the GS swing arm bolt, the rear axle and the vulcan front axle are all of the same dimensions. M14x1.5 I see the haynes talking of the rear axle and the clymer - swing arm.
Badguy:So finally how did you accomplish it? I am hoping mine isn't as tight as that. My bike's got 14k mi on it. How many did yours have? Also a picture tutorial will be most helpful. :cheers:
I have used the rear axle bolt and a heavy weight as a slide hammer.
Last time I had a special tool made, like the ones in the red plastic case in the above pic. The crank was out of the bike and a slide hammer would not work.
Quote from: astroaru on June 20, 2008, 10:22:14 AM
Nick: so you are asking me to go and make a slide-hammer. It does not look difficult, but my mo-bike is already naked. The valve covers are out, the left side crank case cover is out too. I dont want to get the rear wheel out. :oops: Let something be intact. Moreover, this is not some tool that I will need all the time. It happens once in a blue moon unless the gods decide otherwise.
That was just a suggestion I read in the Clymers manual. Maybe you can find someone local with an axle already out you can borrow? I just know that thread/pitch is not a common one.
Nick
Mine had 45K and the sliding hammer well, didn't work on it. However another bike of mine got goats and the sliding hammer got it out like it was dipped in butter.
Cool.
Buddha.
Quote from: astroaru on June 20, 2008, 10:22:14 AM
Badguy:So finally how did you accomplish it? I am hoping mine isn't as tight as that. My bike's got 14k mi on it. How many did yours have? Also a picture tutorial will be most helpful. :cheers:
Here's the how-to I just wrote. (http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=42350.0) It's not much, but it's there :thumb: My bike has 22k on it I think...too lazy to go out and check) but I hope yours isn't as tight either! Good luck :cheers:
EDIT: Doh! I forgot the link the first time around...just added it
Badguy: where's the link. Okay, I found it and thanks for sharing the how-to. I will be working on it this weekend and will let you know.
Buddha: I hope that mine is as easy the butter-dipped-rotor. :icon_twisted: and a million thanks for the slide hammer :thumb:
Buddha: Spot on! Mine came out like a butter dipped rotor :laugh: It came out on the first pull. While my friend nikux's 20k mile rotor needed a ton of effort to get it out.
Thanks man. :bowdown: :bowdown: Bike is back to normal. Cranks up on the first click :cheers: