hi,
Im kinda new with the motorcycle thing (bought my first bike this may). I bought a used 2006 gs500f with around 2k miles on it earlier this summer and whenever i ride it, the idles eems to jump from the standard 1200rpm to about 3500-4000rpm when i start to accelerate or whenever i stop for a light or stop sign. I have no idea if this is supposed to happen or not since im a beginner and know very little on the subject of motorcycles. Does anyone have any suggestions for me to fix this problem?
Hi! Make sure you have the choke off!! My choke on my GS500F wouldn't actually kick in until i dabbed the throttle
also there is a white idle screw right under the fuel tank (there is a gap where the engine is and it pokes down) have a fiddle with that and see if you can bring the idle down!
Good luck =)
Have you cleaned your carbs in a while? Start there. Run some Seafoam/B12 through the tank and see if it helps.
If that doesn't help, you could have a vacuum leak. Simple test is to spray WD40 on any gaskets (mainly the carb intake boots and the boots connecting the carbs and the airbox). Check your vacuum lines as well.
How soon does the high RPMs kick in? Immediately or after a long time into your ride? This information makes it easier to deduce whether you have a misadjusted idle or something more interesting.
Quote from: Stallmaster on September 08, 2011, 12:52:00 PM
I bought a used 2006 gs500f with around 2k miles on it earlier this summer and whenever i ride it, the idles eems to jump from the standard 1200rpm to about 3500-4000rpm when i start to accelerate
Am I understanding this correctly... when you are stopped it idles at 1200rpm. but when you twist the throttle to go faster the tacho goes up as well, and you are wondering if this is Normal?
Is that what you are asking?
Michael
my bike starts to idle around 3500-4000rpm basically as soon as i ride it for more than a few minutes. As soon as the choke is off, my rpms increase. ive just always noticed it when i slow down or stop at a red light.
Quote from: Stallmaster on September 09, 2011, 05:26:58 AM
my bike starts to idle around 3500-4000rpm basically as soon as i ride it for more than a few minutes. As soon as the choke is off, my rpms increase. ive just always noticed it when i slow down or stop at a red light.
Have you played with your idle settings? If so, it's probably a misadjusted idle. Readjust it when it's warm and the choke is off. Otherwise, you may have a vacuum leak somewhere. Use the WD40 trick I suggested earlier and listen for changes in engine sound. Spray it when the RPMs are acting up.
If the revs are staying up after you've closed the throttle, you may have "hanging idle," i.e., the motor keeps running at 3k-4k RPMs for a few seconds after the throttle is closed. Mrs.'s GS started doing that after about 400 miles. Very irritating in general but especially when doing mountain twisties!
Easy fix, though: warm the moto up thoroughly, then use the idle knob (behind the carbs, over the transmission, but beware, it's HOT back there) and set the RPMs to around 1200. If it still hangs, dial down, and if it wants to stall dial up. Took me around 20 minutes to get it right.
Quote from: MysterYvil on September 09, 2011, 09:25:49 AM
If the revs are staying up after you've closed the throttle, you may have "hanging idle," i.e., the motor keeps running at 3k-4k RPMs for a few seconds after the throttle is closed. Mrs.'s GS started doing that after about 400 miles. Very irritating in general but especially when doing mountain twisties!
Easy fix, though: warm the moto up thoroughly, then use the idle knob (behind the carbs, over the transmission, but beware, it's HOT back there) and set the RPMs to around 1200. If it still hangs, dial down, and if it wants to stall dial up. Took me around 20 minutes to get it right.
The problem is if it's not just a problem with the idle becoming misadjusted all you're doing is masking a problem that could become more serious if it's not found early on. Hence why I suggested to do that first if and only if he's played with the idle before. It's important he investigates the possibility of a clogged pilot circuit or vacuum leak before that because he could really compromise the well-being of his bike.
I had a similar problem not but a month ago and fixed it by cleaning the carbs. My pilot circuit was a bit clogged which caused the bike to run lean (hence the high idle) when I'd arrive at a stop light unless I used engine braking to bring it down as I slowed down. It was very noticeable in turns to the point I'd almost under-compensate for engine speed.
I think that im gonna try to adjust the idle knob first and if that doesnt seem to help ill try to get someone who knows how to clean the carbs (or learn myself) and do that after. Thanks again!
Spray wd-40 on the exterior parts of the hoses, right? WD-40 will not hurt the hoses? When I do that, what I am listening/looking for?
Quote from: danster125 on September 09, 2011, 06:33:41 PM
Spray wd-40 on the exterior parts of the hoses, right? WD-40 will not hurt the hoses? When I do that, what I am listening/looking for?
WD40 is safe on rubber. If you mind the residue it leaves on your engine when it drips off just wipe it up with a rag.
WD40 is flammable so ideally your idle will rise as the WD40 is sucked in through the leak. You may also notice that shortly before the WD40 is sucked in the idle will drop. I've read (haven't experienced) the idle drops when the WD40 temporarily seals the holes. Either should be a sign that something may be amiss. Make sure to do it more than once though.
I basically coated my carb intake boots in it to make sure it got everywhere. It's not going to hurt you. Just keep the WD40 away from flames and use an extender to spray it.
Get the factory repair service manual, or the Haynes/Clymer. Read it from cover to cover, then read it again.
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0892878339/gstwincom
The majority of questions you may have or problems you may come across can be answered/resolved if you get to know your bike. And if this is you're first motorcycle ever I suggest you learn how things work in general. I've found this forum to be useful with issues concerning aftermarket mods and upgrades. Just my .02
This is USUALLY caused by someone having cranked up the idle screw to make a bike idle that would not idle normally because of a dirty carb pilot circuit - usually just dirty pilot jets.
If you do not want to pull the carbs try to run some chevron techron fuel system cleaner or berryman b12 in the gas for a tank or two.
If it starts tto clean the pilots you will notice that you have to turn the idle down a bit.
I just cleaned the carbs on a 2006 that appeared whistle clean and I had to turn the idle down some after reassembly. Also, if you have time, it's usually best to just replace the pilots. If they are really dirty, it's hard to get them like new again.
i actually put in the chevron techron fuel in before to clean everything when i first got my bike in may....should i just keep adding it in every time i refuel?
If a couple tanks with 1/2 bottle of cleaner haven't done the trick you'll probably have to clean em.
Quote from: Stallmaster on September 10, 2011, 08:46:21 AM
i actually put in the chevron techron fuel in before to clean everything when i first got my bike in may....should i just keep adding it in every time i refuel?
I used Berryman's B12 fuel additive.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=28B3LrTv4jk
It's pretty much chemo for your bike. I filled up my bike and put 4 oz in (1 per gallon approx.) and over the course of a week of riding the bike got progressively better. Now, it runs great. The carbs were gunked up just enough to cause problems but not enough to warrant a full cleaning.
The fluff replies in this forum astounds me. If you dont know what youre talking about dont type drivile and hit "post"!...its simple really.
To the original poster: what youre describing is "hanging idle". To cure it without guesses and "it might be this"...
1st, adjust the valves to spec. (or have your shop do it)
2nd, have the carbs cleaned and rejetted (or have your shop do it) to pilot: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQitemZ170574271909
main: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQitemZ150521210262
set the a/f screws to 3 1/2 turns out from lightly seated (adjust from there)
3rd, re-syncronize the carbs.(or....you guessed it....have your shop do it)
....after this, you'll have a correctly running GS unless theres vacuum leaks which your shop should have found/corrected during the clean/rejet/re-sync
I dont mean to come across like a prick but, after searching countless threads /sites and never getting a deffinitive answer to a decade old problem, I get tired of reading these vague and unknowledgeable replies. I figured this out on my own and my wifes bike now runs better than it did from the factory, Im sure.
....let the flaming begin.....
You, sir, are completely ignorant about the nature of internet motorcycle forums. Most forums consist of fellow motorcyclists TRYING to help each other. What do you want to do - only let experts post? People show up on these boards and try to help, and it's difficult to do without seeing and evaluating the bike in person.
If I had the original poster's bike in my garage here today I would do almost what you describe, though the suggestion for a 20 pilot and 3.5 turns out is not necessarily what HIS bike needs. The correct way to tune the pilot circuit would be to start with the factory pilot and adjust for appropriate carbon monoxide level at idle ( a spec exists for CO level at idle for best combustion). I'm been designing, developing, producing and improving almost anything with an internal combustion engine for over 40 years so anytime you want to match wits about this stuff for a friendly beer or two let me know!
There is nothing wrong with folks weighing in and trying to help. There is risk that someone will suggest something that could damage the bike - THIS IS THE INTERNET. Not everything on the internet is true. You knew that, right?
For motorcycles with a much larger following and more years of fact gathering and knowledge recording you eventually get to a point where there is an agreed upon set of FACTS (not opinions) about how to fix and improve everything on a particular model of bike. The BMW aiir cooled twin manufactured from the 1950's thru 1995 is the best example. I will post the link to fountain of actual FACTS later today. The GS500 "fact base" doesn't even register compared to something like this. I am not criticizing the GS500 folks.........i think it's a neat bunch. There is just no way they can match the progress of another passionate group that's been at it for about 55 years.
Here is the link. It's the best example of what can happen over years of trading info back and forth, basing things on good sound engineering principles and finding out what works best. It's an excellent read no matter what you are working on. Enjoy!: http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/technical-articles-list.htm
Flames? I don't flame, and I think you'll be surprised at the maturity you find on this board. You might want to consider being a little more kind and polite if you personally need help in the future.
Ride safely.
Quote from: rkjjeep on September 11, 2011, 07:34:27 AM
You, sir, are completely ignorant about the nature of internet motorcycle forums. Most forums consist of fellow motorcyclists TRYING to help each other. What do you want to do - only let experts post? People show up on these boards and try to help, and it's difficult to do without seeing and evaluating the bike in person.
If I had the original poster's bike in my garage here today I would do almost what you describe, though the suggestion for a 20 pilot and 3.5 turns out is not necessarily what HIS bike needs. The correct way to tune the pilot circuit would be to start with the factory pilot and adjust for appropriate carbon monoxide level at idle ( a spec exists for CO level at idle for best combustion). I'm been designing, developing, producing and improving almost anything with an internal combustion engine for over 40 years so anytime you want to match wits about this stuff for a friendly beer or two let me know!
There is nothing wrong with folks weighing in and trying to help. There is risk that someone will suggest something that could damage the bike - THIS IS THE INTERNET. Not everything on the internet is true. You knew that, right?
For motorcycles with a much larger following and more years of fact gathering and knowledge recording you eventually get to a point where there is an agreed upon set of FACTS (not opinions) about how to fix and improve everything on a particular model of bike. The BMW aiir cooled twin manufactured from the 1950's thru 1995 is the best example. I will post the link to fountain of actual FACTS later today. The GS500 "fact base" doesn't even register compared to something like this. I am not criticizing the GS500 folks.........i think it's a neat bunch. There is just no way they can match the progress of another passionate group that's been at it for about 55 years.
Here is the link. It's the best example of what can happen over years of trading info back and forth, basing things on good sound engineering principles and finding out what works best. It's an excellent read no matter what you are working on. Enjoy!: http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/technical-articles-list.htm
Flames? I don't flame, and I think you'll be surprised at the maturity you find on this board. You might want to consider being a little more kind and polite if you personally need help in the future.
Ride safely.
There are plenty of experts with level heads willing to help and willing to correct posts that are obviously bad practice. But no one in this topic has made a bad suggestion yet. That's all we can make - suggestions. Guys like BeerGoggled get off to their ego getting pumped even though his reply was just as "fluffy" as ours. Humility and maturity are the signs of a master. He exhibits none of these. You'll find plenty of people like him here. You'll know one of the masters of the GS500 here when you see one. They carry themselves with an entirely different attitude.
You have hanging idle. Read the tech docs here on how to fix.
---
How's that for a brief and to the point response?
That said, I've done that, and mine still hangs when it gets completely hot after a 30 minute ride! :icon_mrgreen:
He may have chosen the entirely wrong way to approach the subject, but I completely agree with BeerGoggled.
I've seen many incorrect diagnosis from members who haven't the slightest clue as to why they're suggesting what they are, save for mimicing past responses from others on similar matters. That doesn't mean people shouldn't be responding, but when you have to preface your post with "I'm probably wrong but..." you should think twice about hitting submit.
That said, there are many others who are completely and utterly filled to their hats with GS500 knowledge, information and suggestions on maintenance due to their past experiences and their technical know-how and ability. Those are the people who should be key players in tech diagnosis.
Ive never been much for sugar coating the truth. After being a member of several different forums dating back 8 years or so, Ive learned over that time a thick skin should be a login requirement.
OP , sorry for the hijack and drama. Im done.
and I owe beergoggles an apology so here it is - my statement that you were ignorant was out of line.
And this is where we each buy guitars and collaborate on a country music song.
Quote from: MysterYvil on September 09, 2011, 09:25:49 AM
If the revs are staying up after you've closed the throttle, you may have "hanging idle," i.e., the motor keeps running at 3k-4k RPMs for a few seconds after the throttle is closed. Mrs.'s GS started doing that after about 400 miles. Very irritating in general but especially when doing mountain twisties!
Easy fix, though: warm the moto up thoroughly, then use the idle knob (behind the carbs, over the transmission, but beware, it's HOT back there) and set the RPMs to around 1200. If it still hangs, dial down, and if it wants to stall dial up. Took me around 20 minutes to get it right.
Exactly what I did on mine .... fixed the issue, 4,000km later still perfect.
Quote from: BeerGoggled on September 11, 2011, 02:17:44 AM
The fluff replies in this forum astounds me. If you dont know what youre talking about dont type drivile and hit "post"!...its simple really.
To the original poster: what youre describing is "hanging idle". To cure it without guesses and "it might be this"...
1st, adjust the valves to spec. (or have your shop do it)
2nd, have the carbs cleaned and rejetted (or have your shop do it) to pilot: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQitemZ170574271909
main: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQitemZ150521210262
set the a/f screws to 3 1/2 turns out from lightly seated (adjust from there)
3rd, re-syncronize the carbs.(or....you guessed it....have your shop do it)
....after this, you'll have a correctly running GS unless theres vacuum leaks which your shop should have found/corrected during the clean/rejet/re-sync
I dont mean to come across like a prick but, after searching countless threads /sites and never getting a deffinitive answer to a decade old problem, I get tired of reading these vague and unknowledgeable replies. I figured this out on my own and my wifes bike now runs better than it did from the factory, Im sure.
....let the flaming begin.....
Funny, I'm having the same issues as the author I've done everything everyone has recommended. I still have a hanging idle and short of just getting a different set of carbs there has not been any useful information on here in quite some time. The poster should always take into account that the info they get on here is probably just as good as just typing it in the search engine bing google whatever they like. The info would probably be just as good. I'm pretty much to the point that I don't put much faith into what people say here unless they can show me certification that this is what they specialize in. Typical easy maintainance stuff sure it is okay but no way can any certain diagnostics can be given here and the quality info has really been circling the toilet as of late. You tell people your experience or whatever it turns into a "don't tell me what to do your not my mom" krap. I miss the old days when we had capable adults on here and you would get useful info.
To be frank the more people "claim" they know about things the less I actually believe them.
To the author if you find out what is actually wrong let me know so I can try it. Can't be worse than some of the advice you can get on the interwebs.
Quote from: Toogoofy317 on September 12, 2011, 10:14:56 PM
Quote from: BeerGoggled on September 11, 2011, 02:17:44 AM
The fluff replies in this forum astounds me. If you dont know what youre talking about dont type drivile and hit "post"!...its simple really.
To the original poster: what youre describing is "hanging idle". To cure it without guesses and "it might be this"...
1st, adjust the valves to spec. (or have your shop do it)
2nd, have the carbs cleaned and rejetted (or have your shop do it) to pilot: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQitemZ170574271909
main: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQitemZ150521210262
set the a/f screws to 3 1/2 turns out from lightly seated (adjust from there)
3rd, re-syncronize the carbs.(or....you guessed it....have your shop do it)
....after this, you'll have a correctly running GS unless theres vacuum leaks which your shop should have found/corrected during the clean/rejet/re-sync
I dont mean to come across like a prick but, after searching countless threads /sites and never getting a deffinitive answer to a decade old problem, I get tired of reading these vague and unknowledgeable replies. I figured this out on my own and my wifes bike now runs better than it did from the factory, Im sure.
....let the flaming begin.....
Funny, I'm having the same issues as the author I've done everything everyone has recommended. I still have a hanging idle and short of just getting a different set of carbs there has not been any useful information on here in quite some time. The poster should always take into account that the info they get on here is probably just as good as just typing it in the search engine bing google whatever they like. The info would probably be just as good. I'm pretty much to the point that I don't put much faith into what people say here unless they can show me certification that this is what they specialize in. Typical easy maintainance stuff sure it is okay but no way can any certain diagnostics can be given here and the quality info has really been circling the toilet as of late. You tell people your experience or whatever it turns into a "don't tell me what to do your not my mom" krap. I miss the old days when we had capable adults on here and you would get useful info.
To be frank the more people "claim" they know about things the less I actually believe them.
To the author if you find out what is actually wrong let me know so I can try it. Can't be worse than some of the advice you can get on the interwebs.
I had a hanging idle too. The advice on this forum was great. It helped me, combined with what knowledge I have of motorcycles, solve the problem without ever having to remove the carbs. They're due for a real cleaning soon and I'll be stripping them down, rejetting them, cleaning them, and reinstalling them when I get the jardine exhaust this winter.
The truth is, I've gathered, hanging idle is a symptom that manifests itself when a number of things are wrong. The fuel circuit a bit wonky? Hanging idle. Valves stuck/misadjusted? Hanging idle. Exhaust leak? Hanging idle. Something ever-so-slightly misaligned inside a carb? Hanging idle. Stickly throttle cables/choke? Hanging idle. Misadjusted idle screw? Hanging idle. Misadjusted mixture screw? Hanging idle. This was my problem. I literally checked everything. The forum literally advised everything. 4 oz. of B12 just so happened to be the "fix-in-a-can" that I needed so I could put off rejetting/cleaning until I had a reason to take the carbs off. If you ask such a general question you're bound to get the lion's share of general answers. Deal with it. Or you could take it to your local highway robbers and pay them 75 an hour to find the problem. They're "certified". They'll fix it. They'll also make sure you won't be able to pay the bills this month. Complaining about free advice is utterly pointless. A mechanic would give you the same list of generic answers AND charge you for it!
Quote from: Dr.McNinja on September 12, 2011, 10:44:46 PM
If you ask such a general question you're bound to get the lion's share of general answers. Deal with it. Or you could take it to your local highway robbers and pay them 75 an hour to find the problem. They're "certified". They'll fix it. They'll also make sure you won't be able to pay the bills this month. Complaining about free advice is utterly pointless. A mechanic would give you the same list of generic answers AND charge you for it!
Uhm, well being that it was the bikes only symptom how is it a general question? When a patient came to me and said "I have shortness of breath" I wouldn't tell them "hey that's a general symptom come back until you've got more so it is easier for me to figure it out". As they say time is money and at this point we are at what like 4 months trying to diagnose this problem of mine :dunno_black: During this time I've had to replace a valve gasket from taking it off and on not to mention the oil leak all over my riding pants, replacement of fuel lines from taking it off and on, had to replace the petcock during this time could be from all the removals or just time I don't even know, or when the Buddha didn't see the picture I was refering to and was told to cap it off ended up with an airbox full of gas, and the torn ligament in my right arm when the tank rocked off of it's stand when the cat hit it. So, I would dare to say if I just took it to my local guy the first time I even had a symptom I'd probaly be ahead. But, alas I followed the "not so free advice" because I sure as hell have spent alot of time and money parts/ Dr on this. I hope like hell this last time I put the tank on it will run almost decently.
As far as calling all mechanics crooks I hate sterotyping more than anything in the world. The guys at the motorcycle clinic have been as helpful as anyone can be without taking it apart. They told me $170 and they would do a full tune up and check over of my bike. For $75 I could just bring the carbs in and they would have them singing. Unfortunately, when one is disabled $75 is alot of money. I already have to choose between medication and food some weeks.
But, I think I have a bit of an idea what might be going on that no one caught here. I got a K&N drop in which is like stock I thought but I wouldn't have to replace. So, one of the jets might be off. But, I'm not sure because this bike was doing it before that. :dunno_black:
Mary
Quote from: Toogoofy317 on September 15, 2011, 07:37:09 AM
Quote from: Dr.McNinja on September 12, 2011, 10:44:46 PM
If you ask such a general question you're bound to get the lion's share of general answers. Deal with it. Or you could take it to your local highway robbers and pay them 75 an hour to find the problem. They're "certified". They'll fix it. They'll also make sure you won't be able to pay the bills this month. Complaining about free advice is utterly pointless. A mechanic would give you the same list of generic answers AND charge you for it!
Uhm, well being that it was the bikes only symptom how is it a general question? When a patient came to me and said "I have shortness of breath" I wouldn't tell them "hey that's a general symptom come back until you've got more so it is easier for me to figure it out". As they say time is money and at this point we are at what like 4 months trying to diagnose this problem of mine :dunno_black: During this time I've had to replace a valve gasket from taking it off and on not to mention the oil leak all over my riding pants, replacement of fuel lines from taking it off and on, had to replace the petcock during this time could be from all the removals or just time I don't even know, or when the Buddha didn't see the picture I was refering to and was told to cap it off ended up with an airbox full of gas, and the torn ligament in my right arm when the tank rocked off of it's stand when the cat hit it. So, I would dare to say if I just took it to my local guy the first time I even had a symptom I'd probaly be ahead. But, alas I followed the "not so free advice" because I sure as hell have spent alot of time and money parts/ Dr on this. I hope like hell this last time I put the tank on it will run almost decently.
As far as calling all mechanics crooks I hate sterotyping more than anything in the world. The guys at the motorcycle clinic have been as helpful as anyone can be without taking it apart. They told me $170 and they would do a full tune up and check over of my bike. For $75 I could just bring the carbs in and they would have them singing. Unfortunately, when one is disabled $75 is alot of money. I already have to choose between medication and food some weeks.
But, I think I have a bit of an idea what might be going on that no one caught here. I got a K&N drop in which is like stock I thought but I wouldn't have to replace. So, one of the jets might be off. But, I'm not sure because this bike was doing it before that. :dunno_black:
Mary
If it makes you feel any better my hanging idle has returned. I've dialed it in to be almost 80% sure that it's a pilot circuit issue. One of my pilot jets is probably seriously clogged, or my float bowls are so dirty the B12 managed to clean the jet, but the stuff at the bottom of the bowl remained. Heat causes the varnish to become pliable and lodge itself in the pilot circuit. These bikes are naturally lean, and anything causing the mixture to lean out even a little bit more will hang the idle hard. It's fairly apparent that because it occurs only after 30 or so minutes of riding hard that it's not a vacuum leak. I've already ran the WD40 test after a long ride with the idle hanging and nothing gets sucked in.
As such, I've ordered a jet kit from Buddha and by November I'll have my exhaust kit and filter and hopefully that weekend I'll have them tuned and ready to go. The mix with richen up and the jets will be clean so it should run fine.
Not all mechanics are crooks. Only the ones who went to school for it. You know, the guy at the dealership. I'm sorry to hear about all your injuries, but everything except the cat attempting to kill you is part of working on a bike. I've had molten oil spilled on me, I've burned myself checking exhaust pipes and working on warm bikes. From all that I've learned to always wear throw away clothes when working on oil, and don't wear your nice Mechanix gloves when you're working with parts that could leak (or are designed to). It's a part of learning, and half the fun of working on the bike (to me).
first take it for a good long ride... 20-30 mins of twisties or just be a little rough with it, get the engine up to full operating temp, adjust idle to 1000-1100 and this could fix the issue, also check to make sure the 2 brass plugs are still on your mix screws.
if that does not work spray some ether through your pilot circuits... this can sometimes clean some gunk out.
if all else fails rebuild the carb, pull the jets sync and reinstall...
if that doesn't help over fill the gas tank and light a match... (dont really do this)