(http://imageshack.us/a/img88/115/imag0086u.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/88/imag0086u.jpg/)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img593/9824/imag0085vw.jpg)
just cant figure out which hoses go to what. btw my bike has spark and does start now.
Here is the fuel hose routing diagram from the wiki page.
Edit: I read through the original post too fast and missed the year... So I posted the old routing diagram by mistake...
Also, courtesy of adidasguy, here is a link to the hose routings on a set of removed carbs.
http://s1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb442/adidasguy/Technical/#!cpZZ2QQtppZZ20
- Bboy
Top picture:
RED= fuel from petcock to carbs
Yellow= just a vent. It is OK
Bottom picture:
RED= Main fuel line from tank (rear, short one on the tank fuel thingy)
Yellow= Reserve from tank (front and longer tube on the tank fuel thingy)
(That WIKI diagram is for older 1989-2000 bikes with a different fuel petcock)
okay I know theres something wrong.
you were right about the vent.
and that diagram is wrong.
but where in picture one does red hook to.. the bottom t-line hooks to the only two slots on the petcock.
In the bottom picture, you have red and yellow with nothing on them. They go to the fuel tank petcock/fuel-valve.
Notice a large hose just to the left of the red circle, going off to the left? That one goes to the carbs - the hose in the red circle in the top photo.
The way it is now, where does that hose go? (red circle, top photo)
Where does that lower left hose of the petcock go?
What is coming off of the 2 nipples on the tank fuel valve/petcock? Where do they go? Obviously not to the frame petcock as they have nothing connected to them.
in red top picture there are two connectors, the bottom one being whats connected the the fuel outlet of the petcock.
Quote from: BockinBboy on September 21, 2012, 12:03:44 PM
Here is the fuel hose routing diagram from the wiki page.
That diagram is for the OLDER petcock. he has a NEWER one.
As I found out recently, there are two good things about the newer bikes as far as routing goes.
1. The things are labeled, by a raised metal letter on each pipe connector.
A little "R" for reserve line, and "O" for normal/"on" line, on the petcock.
Likewise for the tank.
2. Inner stays inner, outer, stays outer.
So, for tank<-> petcock lines.
TANK Petcock
R O O R
| | | |
| -------- |
____________
That means on your pic, petcock-yellow-circle == reserve
petcock-red-circle == main/on
For your carb pic, the yellow circled thing is fine.
The red circled thing.... erm..
I think that goes to the bottom thingie on the carb, which you already have hooked up fine.
The fourth line, unshown in either pic, is the vacuum line. Which on the newer petcocks, is kinda behind-and-up.
On the carb, it goes.. Umm... somewhere else :D But it's the only non-"braided" line that goes between the petcock and the carb.
aha. linked from a different thread a while back.... :)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v443/jcp8832/04-06fuelcock.jpg)
updating wiki too...
then I still dont know where the red in the top picture goes...
Ah, I see! The top hose you circled in red is a vent. Might connect to a carbon canister, or just hangs in the breeze. (Actually routed to the right, just under your right footpeg.)
In the diagram, see the "to carbs"? That's it.
#1 goes to the carbs
#2 goes tothe tank - the front or longer of the tubes on it. This is the reserve fuel line. PRIME also takes in fuel through this, the reserve line.
#3 goes to the tank - the shorter of the 2 tubes. This is the main fuel line.
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb442/adidasguy/Technical/fuel_lines_zpsf04e42e2.png)
Agree - looking at the position of the one in red it is a vent - hard to tell due to the angle. usually goes over the airbox and ends back of the air box. There would be a metal bendy clampy thingy on one of the air filter bolts on the air box to hold it in place.
The vent is the hose going off to the lower right.
The gray hose going off to the lower left connects to the vacuum line of the petcock.
The fuel goes into the carbs in the brown T in the lower center and does not have a hose connected to it in the picture. It connects to #1 in the upper picture.
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb442/adidasguy/Technical/IMGP1730.jpg)
I do see a hose clamp on that brown T in your photo. Can't see the actual hose in that shot but you do have a hose on #1 of your petcock so I assume that is correctly connected.
What you do not have connected is the fuel tank to the petcock (#2 and #3)
i got it running. I left the reserve from the tank empty. because I didnt have a line to fit. i have a 3/8 i think on the O line. and I left the other fuel inlet for the carbs off. it sounds good, but its running on mixed gas. so I have to get the right gas. and adjust the clutch because its not hitting that right spot. you really have to pull it in to get in nuetral. but it runs great and is fast. i think its flooding a little bit. I already taken it down the street and back up like five times. thanks for all your help guys.
Quote from: Ryanstalin on September 21, 2012, 05:26:02 PM
i got it running. I left the reserve from the tank empty. because I didnt have a line to fit.
odd choice. If i was going to connect "one line", I'd connect the reserve line up.
Even if it needed to go to the "main" tap on the spigot.
well its not running right. I got regular gas in ut, but when you give it throttle it dies, it could be getting to much gas. be flooded out. plus it doesnt idle without dying, i have to hold the throttle by a hair, im sure the idle screw will fix that. does anyone have the part numbers for the fuel lines that I need, so I can get it hooked up properly?
Pull your plugs and 'read' them. It will give you a starting point and a direction to go next once your lines are sorted out.
- Bboy
well. my bike is pouring gas out from under the carbs.
Quote from: Ryanstalin on September 24, 2012, 10:03:15 AM
well. my bike is pouring gas out from under the carbs.
Sooo... either you left a flood bowl drain screw too lose, or you just blew a gasket?
Presuming it isnt running down the side of a tube. If it is, then possible that tube is loose?
Pouring uner the carbs:
1. Drain screws in snug?
2. Loose connection where fuel line meets the carbs?
3. Gas running down the fuel lime from loose connection at the fuel petcock?
from the first post, the red in the top picture is still not hooked up, cause it has no where to go, the line that goes from the petcock to the carbs, theres only one. but I have two connections at the carbs for the fuel inputs. fuel is coming out of it and leaking down on the carbs. I lost the hose to that one apparently, oh and when i give it throttle it dies. Im trying to think of anything else.... dot dot dot. I checked the oil again, its a little over full, normal color. just to be sure before ruining the motor since its been up so long nonrunning. I checked the spark plugs again, they are dry, like a lean fuel mixture, so im assuming its not getting enough fuel because its getting wasted on the carbs. oh, and my airbox had a lake of gas in it. dont be surprised because theres still no air filter in there. so I dont know if thats normal.
as of right now, im searching for my missing hose, and then figure out where it connects.
The one hose of whuch you speak is a vent and goes nowhere other than hang back behind the air box.
There is only 1 fuel connection to the carbs. As shown before, it comes from the frame mounted fuel petcock.
If you think there are 2 fuel connections to the carbs, you really have things wrong.
You need new pictures showing what you have connected and where you think fuel goes to the carbs.
The YELLOW oval is the brown T where there is the single fuel connection from the frame petcock.
The GREEN circle is a vent hose - connects to nothing
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb442/adidasguy/Technical/IMGP1730aaa_zps7537d3a0.jpg)
Junior mechanic chiming in...
if he has fuel coming out of the vent line... doesnt it mean one or both of his floats are broken, or something like that?
I have fuel coming out of the vent red in the picture, I cut a piece if hose then plugged it with a bolt. it ran fine for a little bit, but now it idles way to high. it feels like the clutch wont fully engage, could be that the clutch cable is really rusted? i cant really tune the idle right because i dont know what 1200 rpm sounds like for that motor.
Can you confirm you have the hoses according to Adidasguys last picture?
That Green circled hose is the vent.
Yellow is the fuel.
everything is as I stated. it was working that way, but with some minor glitches. the reserve line from the tank is capped off, and the main line is hooked up, and the fuel to the carbs is hooked up, the vent is just hanging over the carbs, and the line that has no where to go is capped, but it was pouring fuel from there before.
Vent lines should not pour fuel. They are an air vent line. Plugging them will make things not work right.
but if I unplug them it will leak fuel everywhere. so what can I do?
Quote from: Ryanstalin on September 25, 2012, 02:39:45 PM
but if I unplug them it will leak fuel everywhere. so what can I do?
Post new pictures of what you're doing.
We've shown you pictures and said things to do but do not know if you're doing it correctly.
New pictures will tell us.
Fuel does not come out of the carb vent tube. If it does - either
1. Something is seriously wrong
2. You're really talking about a different hose
Pictures - PLEASE!
I will get some pictures in the morning. however Im a little out of gas right now.
(http://imageshack.us/a/img543/8849/imag0104s.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/543/imag0104s.jpg/)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img7/7053/imag0103wj.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/7/imag0103wj.jpg/)
well I put more gas in it, and when you get it to run the motor just constantly races, i kinda get it to settle down by moving the choke back and forth. Im about ready to take it to a shop to get it running, I got it this far.
That's a lot of gas under the tank.
I guess my dumb question is why you didn't connect up both fuel lines from the tank to the frame petcock?
Quote from: adidasguy on September 26, 2012, 04:18:06 PM
I guess my dumb question is why you didn't connect up both fuel lines from the tank to the frame petcock?
'Cause of this:
Quote from: Ryanstalin on September 21, 2012, 05:26:02 PM
I left the reserve from the tank empty. because I didnt have a line to fit. i have a 3/8 i think on the O line. and I left the other fuel inlet for the carbs off.
Quote from: Ryanstalin on September 25, 2012, 08:09:30 AM
and the line that has no where to go is capped, but it was pouring fuel from there before.
Could you remind us which one is that?
well I found that hose, and I left it unplugged for now, it leaks a little fuel, but not as much as before, can we get onto the revving really high problem?
you're willing to take it to a shop, but you're not willing to spend a few bucks on an extra fuel line?
I have difficulty understanding your perspective :-/
as far as the high revving goes... sounds like a problem with your choke mechanism sticking or something. particularly since you even said that it eventualy clears up when you mess with the choke enough.
well I will speend money on getting another fuel line tomorrow, when I get paid. and that only solves the reserve line. what about the extra one that I have that isnt hooked to anything.
there is a screw on each side of the carbs on the bottom facing away from each way. the left one when unscrewed leaks gas, the right side does not. plus the bike has spark, but now it wont start, it was bogging down really bad right before.
Those screws are the float bowl screws. They are there to drain fuel for different reasons but overall they should not leak. I would take the screw out and check it and its threads and put it back in if it is not damaged.
are they supposed to leak fuel when taken out?
OK. Have to chime in here and say GET A MANUAL! and READ THE MANUAL!
Got to be blunt. Things like carb drain screws are a drain screw and do not leak unless you open the drain. You should know what they are. The manuals tell you. And yes- drain screws drain the fuel when you take them out. That's what they are for.
You MUST get a Haynes, Clymer or Suzuki manual. They show you all the parts and explain what they do, how to adjust them and how to connect them.
My preference is Haynes, then Suzuki. Not fond of Clymer as it is more of a shop tech manual. Haynes is better (in my opinion) of walking through tasks one task at a time and the wiring diagrams are in color.
Quote from: Ryanstalin on September 27, 2012, 10:01:01 AM
are they supposed to leak fuel when taken out?
well when you take them out there is nothing in place to hold the fuel back so yes fuel will come out
To put things another way... if fuel ISNT coming out of the right side,when you loosen the drain screw.. there's somethin WRONG!
possibly your float is stuck,and causing fuel to overflow up-and-out, rather than going into the bowl where it belongs.
(disclaimer: I've never taken apart a carb in my life.
... but I bet I'm right anyway ;) )
The float and float needle are what allow fuel from the tank/petcock fuel line INTO the carb bowl. If stuck closed - no fuel goes anywhere. If stuck OPEN, then fuel keeps on coming and flows out of the carb intakes and anywhere else it can go.
Wow, this seems to be way over complicated. Hears about the only time I'll ever say this, Get someone who knows what they are doing to show you in person what's going on. These things are not complicated. Just don't lose anything. And yes BUY A FRIGGING MANUAL.
Quote from: Huff1371 on September 27, 2012, 05:18:01 PM
Wow, this seems to be way over complicated. Hears about the only time I'll ever say this, Get someone who knows what they are doing to show you in person what's going on. These things are not complicated. Just don't lose anything. And yes BUY A FRIGGING MANUAL.
Yep - lack of pictures and OP not having a manual means I'm bowing out of this one.
wow. that was unnecessary. for one phil, you are right. two. I have a manual, read all of my posts. I have post pictures, but im not a picture whore. the ones I have are good enough for the questions im asking, which i asked if you back out the drain screw, shouldnt fuel come out, because I have none on the right carb, but alot on the left carb. I have the manual, and my carb doesnt even match anyone in the book.
Based on that being said right there, go back and read post 40. Adidasguy pretty much covers it
well how do I fix it? I have it unplugged now.
Back one last time.
We have answered your questions based on the couple pictures.
We do not know what manual you have. There are manuals that do have the current carbs.
When you say you "I have it unplugged now". We have no idea. What is "it"? You must post lots of pictures. We have said a lot and have no idea what you are doing. We have to SEE what you unplug. We have to SEE the hoses, where they connect and how they are routed.
We are not there looking over your shoulder. There is only one way we can really know what you are doing: pictures. Lots of pictures.
I've been through things like this with software support. "My program broke. How do I fix it"? Did you get an error message? "Yes, there was a message and I clicked on it so what does that mean?" What was the message and which button did you click on? "You're the expert. You tell me. I just clicked and now it isn't doing what I want".
I have the hardback haynes manual with color on the front.
but(http://imageshack.us/a/img26/9307/imag0104cy.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/26/imag0104cy.jpg/)
the red curcle, what line is that, why is there fuel coming out of it. there is also a secondary t-pipe under that one, it is hooked up to the frame mounted petcock. but the red circle t-pipe has no where to be hooked up to. so for now its just one rubber hose leaning over my air box.
also if it helps, theres a small lake of fuel in my airbox.
So you have the fuel line from the petcock hooked up correctly. And the Red circled line is the vent hose, which yes does not connect to anything, and is now leaking fuel. So fuel is coming out of the carb vent hose (aka carb overflow). This generally means that you have a carb float(s) stuck open, or your needle seat(s) are bad/somethings stuck under it.
When one of these things happen, the carbs internal orifices leak fuel into the engine through the intake valves,past the rings,and directly into the oil sump... so once you get it figured out, i.e. fuel is delivered to the carbs correctly and stays there... be sure to change your oil. Gas in the oil will lose its lubrication properties.
- Bboy
alright, so I take out the carbs, take them apart find the problem. can I clean the part, or will I need new ones? and where can I get the parts?
From a short perusal of your thread here, it seems to me that your issues stem from sticking or improperly set float needle valves. Since new ones aren't cheap, I recommend that you try cleaning the valve and the seat and checking the condition of the tip of the rubber needle valve. Look in your manual at the part that describes how to set the float height. Check that your's is within spec. Then put things back together.
To test that things are working, hook a clear tube up to the drain of a carb and bend it upward into a U shape. Open the drain and set the petcock on prime. The gas level in the tube should be at the same level as the float bowl gasket. If it's higher, then your float is not closing soon enough (try raising the float height). If the gas level is lower than the float bowl gasket, then you float is closing too soon (try lowering the float height). Do this independently for each carb.
If you do all of this adjusting and you can't get the gas level correct, then you may need new needle valve assemblies. Part number 21 on this parts fiche (http://www.ronayers.com/Fiche/TypeID/26/Type/CARBURETOR_MODEL_K4/MakeID/2/Make/Suzuki/YearID/45/Year/2004/ModelID/6807/Model/GS500F/GroupID/290246/Group/CARBURETOR_MODEL_K4).
You can purchase them from ronayers.com. They are not cheap at $51 per carb, but I recommend using OEM parts and not cheap aftermarket ones.
Remember to turn your carb back to ON before letting it sit. It sounds like you might have already flooded your airbox/engine with fuel. I definitely recommend that you change your oil before riding again, and make sure any excess gas is cleaned out of the airbox.
People here can give you suggestions of what to do all day, but nobody is going to give you every single step in the process. Please don't be offended when they ask you to refer to your manual. This is simply for your own good, as the manual details every step with pictures better than we could describe it with a quick post. Good luck!
everything you said is true. but Im a little dyslexic? I'll get lost sometimes. I perfer short simple answers. OR learn by hands on. either way google, and this forum I can get my answers, I use the manual as another go-to. but the manual doesnt tell me what to do when the carb screws are stripped. I cant get anything on the bottom apart.
Those screws are JIS head (Japanese Industrial Standard). Not phillips. If you use a phillips screwdriver, you will strip them. At this point, you will need to put a slot into the screw heads by grinding all of the stripped screws with a rotary tool or hacksaw and remove them with a flat head screwdriver. Some folks manage to use an impact, and get them out that route... But you will needto the hardware store and replace all the JIS screws.. I suggest replacing them with socket head cap screws.
- Bboy
Quote from: Ryanstalin on September 28, 2012, 04:39:29 AM
I have the hardback haynes manual with color on the front.
but(http://imageshack.us/a/img26/9307/imag0104cy.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/26/imag0104cy.jpg/)
the red curcle, what line is that, why is there fuel coming out of it. there is also a secondary t-pipe under that one, it is hooked up to the frame mounted petcock. but the red circle t-pipe has no where to be hooked up to. so for now its just one rubber hose leaning over my air box.
also if it helps, theres a small lake of fuel in my airbox.
I see several things wrong here. First, the upper vent for the carb (has a small cylinder attached to it, like a filter) should be laying on TOP near the airbox. See picture in Adidasguy's post.
Next, the hose circled in RED is the float vent. You need this to route on top of the airbox as pictured, and tucked behind the airbox between the airbox and battery. NO KINKS or your bike will not run. When gas is burned, the volume in the floats needs to be filled with something...that's air. It's like when you pour gas out of a jerry can and you open up the little vent on top. Flows better, no glug-glug-glug.
If gas is coming out of this, you have a problem with float needles not shutting off the gas properly. Read Bombsquad's last post.The bottom 'T' that you talk about is the fuel line from the petcock.
There should be hose going from the top of the engine to the nipple on the airbox. This is called the breather tube.
I get that. cant I just soak the needle in a degressor? do you have a picture of where those parts are>?
http://www.sportlandmotorsports.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=300550&category=Motorcycles&make=SUZUKI&year=2004&fveh=7247
That's a little bit clearer fiche. Maybe someone with a 2004+ carb can give you a picture of the real thing.
Here is a pile of photos when I removed carbs from the donor bike for Phenix. You can see a lot if you study them.
The red cap on a "T" is the block off from removing the PAIR system.
In second photo, there is a fuel line sticking up at the bottom. Next to it there is a fat hose which went from the PAIR system to the lower second vent hole on the airbox.
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb442/adidasguy/Technical/DSC01543.jpg)
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb442/adidasguy/Technical/DSC01544.jpg)
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb442/adidasguy/Technical/DSC01712.jpg)
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb442/adidasguy/Technical/DSC01714.jpg)
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb442/adidasguy/Technical/DSC01717.jpg)
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb442/adidasguy/Technical/DSC01722.jpg)
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb442/adidasguy/Technical/DSC01726.jpg)
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb442/adidasguy/Technical/DSC01725.jpg)
That red cap remember was for the PAIR system. It connected to the vacuum operated switch mounted on the frame on the left above the engine on the round support bar. Pictures do show 2 screw mounting holes in that round bar.
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb442/adidasguy/Technical/DSC01729.jpg)
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb442/adidasguy/Technical/DSC01728.jpg)
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb442/adidasguy/Technical/DSC01733.jpg)
This shows a hose and "T"connecting the carbs. This was Calif. emissions and right now I forget what but I think part of the CANISTER system. My 2009 has a PAIR system (not for much longer) but nothing connecting the carbs at the engine side. I will have to remove the hoses and cap off in order to get the long-boy mixture screws in there. The hose connection blocks any access to the right carb mixture screw. The donor bike originated in California.
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb442/adidasguy/Technical/DSC01731.jpg)
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb442/adidasguy/Technical/DSC01734.jpg)
Quote from: adidasguy on September 28, 2012, 12:10:47 PM
Jester:not correct on the vent hoses. There are 2 from the tops of the carbs.
Here is a pile of photos when I removed carbs from the donor bike for Phenix. You can see a lot if you study them.
The red cap on a "T" is the block off from removing the PAIR system.
Jester is correct on the carb vents. He was describing exactly what you have pictured...
I think the OP is looking for pics of the inside of the float bowl to see what needs to be adjusted/replaced.
Those pictures are helpful though. I can't believe the mess of hoses on the newer carbs.
yeah i got all the hoses right. what i need is pictures of inside the 2004+ carbs. and label what s what..
(http://imageshack.us/a/img259/426/imag0109yj.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/259/imag0109yj.jpg/)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img210/9268/imag0110x.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/210/imag0110x.jpg/)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img546/7204/imag0112b.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/546/imag0112b.jpg/)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img690/803/imag0501b.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/690/imag0501b.jpg/)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img546/7141/imag0502mg.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/546/imag0502mg.jpg/)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img706/9806/imag0503o.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/706/imag0503o.jpg/)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img826/2353/imag0504q.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/826/imag0504q.jpg/)
so which one of these do I need to pull out so I can clean? and how do I clean it?
I found the needles on both sides stuck in a round hole. I cleanse them both then reinstalled them. Then put everything back together. Now the bike runs great. It idles good. And the clutch works great.
Ryanstalin, glad you got it sorted out. Yep, carbs are confusing but when you have tinkered with them a lot, it's second nature.
Those are some dirty float bowls. Looks like brown sugar. Wow!
yeah this bike has previsously been through mud, a long time ago. quick question, is it recommended to change out the oil, what kind of oil and how many quarts?
Mud doesn't enter the float bowls (unless your whole bike took a dip). It's most likely gunked up old fuel you are seeing there along with whatever particles of rust and whatnot that came through from the gas tank. You should really clean all that junk out with some carb cleaner. You don't want it clogging up your jets or your needle valves again.
Simple answer: 10W-40 Motorcycle oil. Make SURE it's designed for motorcycles. Buy 3 quarts. You will need a full 2 quarts and a partial third. When checking oil from the dipstick, place on centerstand and DO NOT SCREW IT IN, just drop the dipstick in the hole, and check level that way.
Look at the Wiki for more info: http://wiki.gstwins.com/index.php?n=Maintenance.EngineOil
Quote from: bombsquad83 on September 28, 2012, 06:38:18 PM
Mud doesn't enter the float bowls (unless your whole bike took a dip). It's most likely gunked up old fuel you are seeing there along with whatever particles of rust and whatnot that came through from the gas tank. You should really clean all that junk out with some carb cleaner. You don't want it clogging up your jets or your needle valves again.
PLEASE tell me that you cleaned out the brown sugar from the bottom of your float bows AND the rest of the inner workings of the carbs :icon_eek: It was unclear in your last post.
I did clean everything in hot water, degresser and qtips. It did have some rust dips. But other then that its good to go. I will be getting oil tomorrow. It's mobile 1 fullly syn 10w40.three quarts. It's 9.97 a bottle. But I get a 10% discount.
Good :thumb: Keep us posted. And change the filter too, not just the oil.
true, can I buy the filter at walmart? whats the part number?
Fram CH-6000. I don't think they sell at Wal-Mart. Have only seen it at Advance Auto Parts.
Fram or OEM. That's what I use.
Okay Ill get it all tomorrow. btw I added some tinker lights, caution they are bright.
(http://imageshack.us/a/img23/6176/imag0505qb.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/23/imag0505qb.jpg/)
well Im back. it doesnt have any gas getting to the right carb, so now it has no power. did I not seat the float needle right?
I have a feeling that your needle valves are sticking. Not really surprising based on how nasty your float bowls were. No matter how much you clean those valves they might just keep sticking.
But the left carb has plenty of good. You can even ride the bike. But its still lacking the power like it did have.
I cleaned them again and its running like it should right now, worried that the needle will get stuck again
Quote from: Ryanstalin on October 01, 2012, 07:45:17 PM
I cleaned them again and its running like it should right now, worried that the needle will get stuck again
They will. You will need to order OEM needle seats. DO NOT buy aftermarket. They say that they fit, but don't.
Also, make sure that you clean inside the hole where the needles go. Otherwise it will stick again for sure. You can keep cleaning them, or buy new. Go to bikebandit.com, or go to your local dealer. They are expensive, but think of the well running bike you will have when it is all done.
Depending on where you live, you may be down for the Winter. Good time to work on the bike.
i live in the south, it doesnt get cold til around feb. and I cleaned them again, but they are stuck again. I cleaned everything this last time. it seems like it has good power to the left cylinder tho. think I could get away with ordering one set? and maybe from ebay, if theres any oem on there.
eBay is also good. Look for Pinwall cycles. They are in Ohio, but they buy wrecks and parts bikes and part them out. Quality stuff, and they are from Ohio (like me) so it can't be all that bad. Pinwall also tells you the make and model bike it's off of and the mileage.
I'd try new or gently used OEM ones.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120948478415 I found that?
K&L = aftermarket = probably no good. OEM means Suzuki parts.
well im still trying to find a dealer. :dunno_black: but my :technical: is freaking dumb.
Look for SGP (Suzuki Genuine Parts). Guaranteed to fit. Where in the south are you located? There should be a dealer close by.
I live in columbus, ga phenix city, al area. and Im going to look for them then.
I couldnt find them, how do I look up the users?
Extreme Powersports on Northlake pkwy
Well dealerships are expensive. It would be worth getting them as long as they had the parts instock.
Try ronayers.com
Best price on a consistent basis
Quote from: Ryanstalin on October 03, 2012, 12:54:44 AM
Well dealerships are expensive. It would be worth getting them as long as they had the parts instock.
This is a part where you have to get OEM. No other way around it. Try shopping around to look for a competitive price.
the video code didnt work so heres a direct link.
http://img545.imageshack.us/img545/5112/ic4nkhblvuiywjwyisseef.mp4
and heres the thumbnail
<a href="http://imageshack.us/clip/my-videos/545/ic4nkhblvuiywjwyisseef.mp4/"><img src="http://img545.imageshack.us/img545/5112/ic4nkhblvuiywjwyisseef.mp4.th.jpg"/></a>
what do you think?
Imageshack is one of those sites that loves to put pop-ups on your screen. It even opens up extra copies of your browser with ads (even when Firefox has pop-ups disabled).
You can put videos on youtube, photobucket and other sites and not get hit with all the ads and pop-ups.
Maybe you can put your videos somewhere else?
I have it uploaded on my facebook. you can add me on there and watch it. btw I have a build album with a 3800sc fiero, and numerus photos of some nice bikes ive seen at dealerships.
but heres the link to the video.
http://www.facebook.com/ajax/flash/expand_inline.php?v=368089579941137&target_div=uj806f9115&playertype=permalink&max_width=403&max_height=403&context=timelineSingle
and if that doesnt work look me up "ryan stalin" and add me.
btw the car battery I had on the back of the bike, is no longer usable. The bike was running so great earlier and had alot of kickback when you really open the throttle. which btw my straps didnt hold the battery tight enough. and I ended up pushing the bike right back to my house.
any ideal what i've done today?
some leftover paint cans I found around, and a little boredom lead to this.
(http://imageshack.us/a/img96/6028/imag0550k.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/96/imag0550k.jpg/)
Quote from: Ryanstalin on October 04, 2012, 05:10:05 PM
any ideal what i've done today?
some leftover paint cans I found around, and a little boredom lead to this.
(http://imageshack.us/a/img96/6028/imag0550k.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/96/imag0550k.jpg/)
Oh dear :dunno_white:
Quote from: Ryanstalin on October 04, 2012, 05:10:05 PM
any ideal what i've done today?
some leftover paint cans I found around, and a little boredom lead to this.
Ummm... do you know for sure if that's heat-proof paint? :-/
all my paint is heat resistant, the matallic red you see on the exhuast is 1000*f rated, and the black is 650* and the grey is rim paint, with a layer of bonding paint.
(http://i1285.photobucket.com/albums/a600/RyanStalin1/th_VIDEO0012_zps94cecbba.jpg) (http://s1285.photobucket.com/albums/a600/RyanStalin1/?action=view¤t=VIDEO0012_zps94cecbba.mp4)
th
is is a video I made with my camera attached to the bike. its pretty shakey. but its quick. and it idles high until you let go of the clutch.
well my bike revs really high, and it backfires out the exhuast, i believe its running to rich, but i also heard that im using the wrong fuel. im supposed to be using 91 and up? i never knew this.
Quote from: Ryanstalin on October 05, 2012, 05:40:51 PM
well my bike revs really high, and it backfires out the exhuast, i believe its running to rich, but i also heard that im using the wrong fuel. im supposed to be using 91 and up? i never knew this.
I take it you are using the 10% ethanol?
Please stop using it and use 91 octane and up or you will have issues. :thumb:
do you think thats why my idle is so high?
No doubt. We dont have 91 around here. We have 93 and for the small amount of fuel this bikes takes, thats what I use.
i can find 93. i guess a bp will work. i believe its almost road ready.
All franchise owned stations must sell fuel blended with ethanol. However, independent owned stations have the option to blend or use 100 % fuel with no ethanol
They sell cheap ethanol test kits all over the net and there are home brew kits you can use also with Mason jars and water.
I think we are a little off track here. The type of gas he uses shouldn't really effect his idle speed. The bike is designed for 87.
High idle can be caused by lots of things.
1. Idle screw adjustment
2. Mixture screw adjustment
3. Air leaks
4. Throttle cable adjustment
5. Choke cable stuck on
6. Other carburetor issues, like clogged passages
7. Any combination of the above
When I first got my 09 found a pin hole in a diaphragm $20 later problem solved:
http://www.siriusconinc.com/pro-detail.php?pid=&product_id=3039 (http://www.siriusconinc.com/pro-detail.php?pid=&product_id=3039).
okay well one of my symptoms is that it idled very high when holding down the clutch, while in gear it sounds fine. now though, its beginning to act more and more right, but its just a tad bit bit off, I believe that the octane i have is too combustible for a 12krpm bike, or 11k. so switching to 93, with an octane booster would be the fix?
A good dose of Seafom may help, it's works wonders for me.
just in the gas can?
Its still revving high when you hold down the clutch. Im trying to source now. all slight transmission slippage in high gear and full throttle. must take lightly. do you still think theres something wrong with the carbs?
See my previous post about what the high revs are likely from. Also adjust your clutch. Plenty of threads about both your problems here.
Quote from: Ryanstalin on October 06, 2012, 02:14:45 PMso switching to 93, with an octane booster would be the fix?
Try a tank of 93oct, but skip the octane booster. They really dont do anything. Have you tried turning the idle adjustment screw to lower the idle?
its full of 93 octane, the clutch is tight, but cuts like butter, since theres a new line on there. i did lower the idle screw all the way down and the throttle had sag. but still revved high. my only guess would be that the float needles have gotten stuck. I will easily solve that tomorrow tho.
btw I would take pictures, but my phone got stolen, and im still in the process of replacing it. so bare with me, I still have a ton of cool photos of the bike. my friends buell is running as well. my friend is riding it without a seat.
well since the lack of the responds, im guessing im all alone on this one, i did check out my clutch basket, which looks to be in good shape. the throttle response is super guick compared to a stock gs500f, i took notice to alot of youtube videos on how the bike "should" run. mine does have a slight chatter, that I havent located the position other then "under" me.
I can tell you ever time I had a fuel issue or idle issue it was carb related somehow. Either the passages were not clean or it was not adjusted correctly. You seen how it responded better after I synced the carbs. And that was AFTER I already had clean the bowls, rejetted, drilled out the brass caps and was out 2.5 turns on the air screws.
Here is another small fuel issue I had I just resolved.
http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=62133
Quote from: Ryanstalin on October 10, 2012, 07:33:01 PM
well since the lack of the responds, im guessing im all alone on this one, i did check out my clutch basket, which looks to be in good shape. the throttle response is super guick compared to a stock gs500f, i took notice to alot of youtube videos on how the bike "should" run. mine does have a slight chatter, that I havent located the position other then "under" me.
Maybe the lack of response is that this thread has gone through many different topics. Not sure what the current state is or what to respond to.
Maybe summarize your current problems in a new thread?
I find it hard to read through all the posts to determine what your current question/problem really is.
Well I fixed the front brakes. And the back rotor has bumps in it. I'm planning to get a new rotor. And I have a new rear brake line coming since the current one is.leaking. its revving extremely high. And I bought.some carb cleaner. And spray it in the box. It revved higher when doing that. I put new spark plugs in it as well and sounds very good. When pulling the carb back makes it rev higher too
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Your problem may have nothing at all to do with routing of fuel lines. Normally, the vacuum will open the diaphragm to allow either main or reserve fuel into the float bowl during start and run. If you turn the frame-mounted petcock to "PRIME", you will be gravity-dumping fuel into the carbs, running or not. It happens even faster when the motor is running; the airbox will begin to fill with fuel, cause extremely rich mixture which will foul the plugs. As the engine sputters and bogs, the excess fuel will blow by the rings, diluting the motor oil. DOOFUS ALERT!! I just got back from a 3 hour session in the garage. HOW TO FIX - Find the piss-tube which is connected to the bottom of the airbox. My '89 GS500e has a little flapper dohickey at the bottom of the tube. Cut the cable ties, let the fuel drain out. Pull the air filter, which is probably sopping wet with gas. Hook a vacuum cleaner up and draw air through it for 20 minutes to evaporate the gasoline. Drain the oil which is probably 1/2 gas and 1/2 oil. Do a complete oil change + filter. Re-cable tie the piss tube end, so airbox doesn't suck air from the tube. Learn from my MISTAKE - set the frame petcock to ON or RESERVE. Hope this helps - let me know how it turns out for you..........
My fuel is set to on already. And its not flooding. It is running a little rich sometimes I have backfire put the tailpipe. After I turned the motor off. There's no gas in the airbox, or oil.
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Quote from: spf on October 11, 2012, 07:09:01 PMIf you turn the frame-mounted petcock to "PRIME", you will be gravity-dumping fuel into the carbs, running or not. It happens even faster when the motor is running; the airbox will begin to fill with fuel, cause extremely rich mixture which will foul the plugs. As the engine sputters and bogs, the excess fuel will blow by the rings, diluting the motor oil.
If the floats are set right and the float needles are working properly, this will not happen, even on prime.
Okay, so my floats are not set right. Can anyone help me atleast check on that. I don't have any clear tube. And one of the float drain holes has jbweld in it. I believe mine are opening a little to much.
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Go to the petstore and get get clear aquarium line. It's cheap. I'd recommend getting a new float bowl to replace the one that is filled with JB weld. Place a WTB ad on these forums and specify which year bike you have. We already talked about the process to check the float height on page 3 of this thread.
Since you don't seem like you are into following directions and doing things the proper way, you can always just fiddle with the float height until it works ok (if your float needle sets don't need replaced anyway). You adjust the float height by bending the tab on the float that presses on the float needle valve. Bend it toward the top of the valve (just a little bit) to raise the float height, which shuts off the fuel flow at a lower level.
That makes sense since they were straight to begin with. Yeah sorry about that. I've been pretty much using what I can around the house and garage to fix the small things.
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I took them back apart. And its kinda difficult to notch the wire that holds the needles. But I think I did. However it will idle fine for a little while. Then want to die. Then start revving high again when you open the throttle.. hmm. If you need anymore details just ask.
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Quote from: Ryanstalin on September 28, 2012, 07:50:48 AM
everything you said is true. but Im a little dyslexic? I'll get lost sometimes. I perfer short simple answers. OR learn by hands on. either way google, and this forum I can get my answers, I use the manual as another go-to. but the manual doesnt tell me what to do when the carb screws are stripped. I cant get anything on the bottom apart.
i prefer to replace all the JIS screws with stainless steel allen head screws, i think it looks much cleaner and it's actually cheaper to buy all the screws + 1 allen wrench then to get specialty screw drivers. if you are really having problems getting them out i take a drill or impact with a JIS bit and put some pressure on it then screw it out quickly, slowly will strip so its all or none! but it's safer for the majority of people to just take a dremel and cut a slot for a flat head.