Is it possible, and if so how much play is too much.  

Besides the recess (groove) for the circlip, is there a grove for the pinion, or should it look like the rest of splines?

Advice greatly appreciated as always.

Hasn't anyone ever looked at the output shaft when replacing the front sprocket/chain?  I could really use some help!

I've looked at it, but it's been a while.  Do you mind clarifying what you mean by "a groove for the pinion"?

I don't recall seeing anything but splines along the entire shaft and a groove for the circlip.

Thanks for your reply!

In the process of removing the chain for replacement, I noticed some play in the front sprocket.  I removed the circlip, followed by the sproket itself.  Well to my dissmay I noticed the splines on the output shaft were cupped, thus allowing play in the sprocket.  Besides the circlip grove is there any other depths or machined groves, or should it look like the untouched area on the other side of the circlip?

It appears they are worn almost to the depth of the circlip groove.  I am afraid I'll spin the pinion when it wears the rest of the way.  I'd just replace the pinion, but well the shaft is worn also.  Wouldn't just a new pinion with sharp inner edges make the wear worse?  Bike only has 25K on it.  It did see by the previous owner frequent passengers with total additional weight of at least 325 lbs, a bit much for a lightweight bike IMO.  The sprocket ratios were messed with as well in this bikes history....

Should I prepare myself for bad news?

The earlier models had a tendency to wear the splines on the shaft where the sprocket sits. Around 1995 Suzuki added more material to the spline area of the sprocket. The spacer on the shaft was shortened to makeup for the thicker sprocket. Unfortunately the spacer is pressed on the shaft, so you can't just replace it.  It requires a complete disassembly to replace the shaft.
BUT, I wouldn't worry about it for a long time. You should be able to get many more miles before the splines go. It's not getting the load it was with the previous owner. The sprocket does have a little play to begin with.
A new sprocket won't hurt anything.
If you do decide to replace it, let me know. I have lots of transmissions.
I'll send a complete shaft ready to drop in.  

Thanks, I do hope it lasts.  I'll try to post some pictures so you can see how good/bad it is....

With 25K on the engine I wonder even if its worth replacing the shaft since I'd be splitting the case.  Who knows what else I'd find that needs replacing, (bearings, seals etc) along the way.

I'll try to get a picture posted in a little later.

okay, here is a picture of the output shaft, see how its grove behind the circlip groove is almost down to the depth that the circlip will slide past it?

this one shows the pinion also, one of the pinions is older one that was on the bike before, (different ratio).

Pics arent workin.

Not seeing the pics, but a little bit of play in the sprocket is normal on these bikes. I don't know what the actual acceptable spec is, but I'd say a little common sense goes a long way in a call like this. If it's moving so much that you think the sprocket will throw the chain you've obviously got some issues. I wouldn't sweat a couple of mm.

Also, if memory serves, not all of the GS motors use a circlip to retain the sprocket, some have a set screw. Don't quote me on that though...

I would get an OEM suzuki sprocket or an aftermarket one that has a neck on it that makes it double thickness around the inner teeth where it slips over the shaft. This will even out the forces and hopefull lessen the wear on the output shaft (or at least make it wear evenly).

QuoteI'll send a complete shaft ready to drop in.

Bob, do you cut your own gear dogs for 2nd and 5th too? i have a couple trannys myself, but never watched one done, i know the theory well enough, but not the allowences that must be within so much for smooth gear IE non clash operation after all the cuts.  what would you charge with a good core tranny exchange?

GooseyGoose,

To illustrate what Bob and James are talking about, see THIS POST.

The question is whether you can even fit a thicker sprocket on your countershaft.  I'm doubtful....

PS - What year is your bike?  From the photos I would say pre-'94.

It is indeed a pre-94, actually a 93, family owned actually since it had a few thousand on it, hence how I know the history of the bike.

Anyway, I was actually thinking this could be a way to solve the issue, and happy to see that is how suzuki addressed it.  

I don't see how the thicker center cog would fit, however I could ditch the circlip, and drill a through or set screw hole in the shaft to retain a thicker pinion.

It might be time to stock up on 1/16 drill bits...just hope I can accomplish this while the case is in the bike.

Please don't tell me this will unbalance the shaft either.  A loose pinion can't be good for it either.

Is zero play desireable?  Just think the idea of a set screw in the cog, vs. a through hole in the shaft with a codder pin.....

Quote from: JamesGI would get an OEM suzuki sprocket or an aftermarket one that has a neck on it that makes it double thickness around the inner teeth where it slips over the shaft. This will even out the forces and hopefull lessen the wear on the output shaft (or at least make it wear evenly).

You won't be able to put the circlip on with the thicker sprocket.
What you might try is drilling a hole in the end of the shaft.
Tap it for a bolt and use a large washer on the shaft end.
This will allow the sprocket to float, but not come off.
The only problem could be the hardness of the shaft.
May be tough to drill.

Blueknyt
I just use stock trannys. Haven't had any problems jumping out of gear, so I've never undercut the dogs.

Won't work.  Assides from the fact that the shaft is heat treated and hella hard, there is just enough play between the spines and sprocket that anything short of welding the sucker on will eventually fatigue and fail.

You should be able to take the wider new sprocket and grind down the collar unil the c-clip just barely fits. This will keep the sprocket from wobbling on the shaft and prevent the clip from working loose.

QuoteBlueknyt
I just use stock trannys. Haven't had any problems jumping out of gear, so I've never undercut the dogs.

think you can? just looking to have 1-2  and 4-5 cut. Ifnot, no biggy.

I've never tried to undercut a tranny, so I'm not sure how I would go about it.  :dunno:

WOW!  

I've got 80k miles on the 97 GS and no visible wear on the shaft.  With only 25k on your bike, I would guess that the bike was run with no chain lube and with the rear wheel missaligned most of the time.  I weigh about 240# and have run my 97 hard.  I've put a new front sproket on with a new chain every 15-20k miles(yearly) and have always used the narrow Sprocket Specialist sprocket to replace the original wider hub sprocket.

For those who can't see the pics, I right clicked on the X and clicked on the properties and copied and pasted the URLs.

I think that bike needs a new output shaft to make it right.

Gsjack you hit it right on the nose... somehting looked off in that pic... now I know. its dry and rusty.... mine is oily, greasy, filthy but no rust and no real wear... of course I am riding a spring chicken compared to yours... 45K... just about 1/2 the miles in 2 times the time...
I do want to drill and installa bolt for holding the thing... but I want it cos I wanna fit a belt drive on it.
On a sorta related note for the first time ever in my life I have arrived at the end of my chains adjustment wihtout having one that is unevenly worn and the sprokets also look like they are even and not hooked... can I cut off a couple of links off the chain and continue using it till the sprokets and or chain get un useable...
Cool.
Srinath.