Camshaft endplay CAN be removed, should you so desire.  The "shim" washer comes in four thicknesses: 1, 1.1, 1.2, and 1.3mm.  They're cheap-- Ron Ayers has them at $2.54 each.  My GS has an ongoing knock but no vibration from 3500 to 6K, and am going to eliminate this before digging deeper (into my wallet).  

I've attempted this adjustment once.  When I recently checked tappet clearances I noticed considerable endplay of the intake cam, and less so on the exhaust.  Ayers listed one as simply "washer shim", which I interpreted as considerably thinner than 1mm.  I ordered two of those and a 1.3 mm thicknesses, figuring that I could at least minimize, if not remove the endplay with some combination.

I also thought there was a lot of play (~1mm), but it turned out the 1.3 mm was a very tight fit, and the "washer shims" were 1.0 mm's--  the same as stock washers.  I've read the endplay spec is "barely detectable when cold", since it's a Buddha Loves You to measure.  So, I placed an order yesterday for a pair each of the 1.1 and 1.2 mm, and will let y'all know what happens.

OK, so if I put everything together correctly the washers you mentioned are items 8-1 through 8-4 on this Ron Ayers parts list.

The descriptions seem to have been truncated, but I'm betting that it goes like this:PART #          DESCRIPTION                           PRICE

09181-22167     273 Washer, Shim (stock 1.0mm size)   $1.28
09160-22074     273 Washer, 22x30x1.1mm               $2.54
09160-22075     273 Washer, 22x30x1.2mm               $2.54
09160-22076     273 Washer, 22x30x1.3mm               $2.54
Cool!  I LOVE it when I learn something new about this bike!  

My new F has the clunk, too.

I live down near Houston in Texas. It's rainy today and my rotors developed rust while I was in work for a few hours. Crazy huh?

well, since my gs got the same noise (from the camshaft)
as every one here discribed it quite well ...

where shoud i put the shims ?


in god i hope to trust   :dunno:

The link in my previous post takes you to a diagram showing where the shims go.  Here is a slightly more user-friendly BikeBandit version.

In both diagrams, the shims are items 2 and 8.  The Ron Ayers page shows Suzuki part numbers and prices.

I don't know what it would take to install a new shim, but a repair manual (or JLKasper) could probably walk you through it.

Quote from: Kerry
...I don't know what it would take to install a new shim, but a repair manual (or JLKasper) could probably walk you through it.

What I did last time: I didn't perform the complete procedure to remove both cams and reinstall them, since I only had enough (I thought) to do the intake cam only.  I set the crank at Right cylinder TDC and the cams positioned as a shown on page 114 of the Clymer '89-96 manual.  I removed the bearing caps, and simply lifted the cam up and replaced the washer at the left end, with one I had purchased.  The 1.3 mm washer provided no endplay at all, and the other two "shims" were stock 1.0mm washers.

What I'll do next time (when the parts arrive from Ron Ayers--  they're en route from Charlotte NC at the moment).  I'll look through the Haynes manual I just purchased from dgyver (thanx again!) and see if it's any more clear.  I'll remove both cams and try the 1.1 and 1.2mm, one at a time, to see what fits best.  Like I said, it's difficult to measure with a feeler gauge and it's best to order all the washers so you'll have what fits best.

I can't overemphasize the importance of having a repair manual at your side during this procedure.  I'd photocopy the relevant pages and use a highlighter liberally to ensure you understand the procedure.  Allow yourself a few hours at least to complete this task.  It requires removing the camchain tensioner (which means for those of us who can't hold our mouths just right, removing the carbs as well) and concentration to ensure that everything remains in careful orientation, lest expensive valve/piston contact occurs.

If you don't feel you have the patience or mechanical aptitude to perform this task, leave it alone or in the hands of someone more experienced.  This noise is more annoying than detrimental; it's easy to screw it up and have the engine make more sickening and expensive noises if something is amiss. One other thing:  if you've performed the DIY ignition advancer, you either need to reset the timing plate to stock configuration or fudge accordingly (~3mm clockwise from the the "R-T' mark)

Quote from: JLKasperIt requires removing the camchain tensioner (which means for those of us who can't hold our mouths just right, removing the carbs as well)

I thought you could remove all tension on the camchain by retracting the tensioner (turning the slot on the back of the tensioner with a screwdriver).  Does this not provide enough slack after all?

Kerry,

Turning the retractor screw releases the tension, but it doesn't hold.  When I removed the tensioner with the carbs on, I jury-rigged a tool to hold the retractor in when I started the screws that holds the unit.  It was very dicey, and it's just as easy to pull the carbs so you can easily get tools in behind the tensioner.  YMMV

I've definantely noticed the clanking noise coming from my new F.  Sometimes it's really noticable in idle, but I think its also there when the bike's getting throttle; it's just tuned out from the engine noise.  Everything that I've read about it says it's harmless and one source even said it has something to do with the clutch  :dunno:

Not to minimize any engine noises, but I wonder if the new GS500F series, with the beautiful full fairing, may be noisier due to vibration, or noise resonating off the fairing?Just a thought here.I don't own a GS500, but my nephew does, since I found him one and suggested it as a great first street bike(he had ridden dirt biked for years).He loves his 1994 GS.

   JOn Neet

Quote from: proudlomI've definantely noticed the clanking noise coming from my new F.  Sometimes it's really noticable in idle, but I think its also there when the bike's getting throttle; it's just tuned out from the engine noise.  Everything that I've read about it says it's harmless and one source even said it has something to do with the clutch  :dunno:

the noise coming form the camshaft  
comes when the engine is very warm ...  as you wrote noticable
in idle ...chk it ...

Confronting some problem while re-assembling my top engine , searched up some thread and found this one...

HELP?

My problem is when I try to re-assemble the two camshafts in their right position , while the R.T mark is aligned -- the 18 pins gap on the camchain is allright , but after tightening the bolts of the camshafts bearing caps -- the R.T mark has moved a few mm's....

As I'm working with a Haynes manual this is not clear if this movement is alright ( the movement comes from the pressure of the exhaust camshaft on the valve cup).

Thanks in advance!

Ohad

EDIT: Kerry replaced Unicode character codes with equivalent ASCII characters.

Quote from: KerryOK, so if I put everything together correctly the washers you mentioned are items 8-1 through 8-4 on this Ron Ayers parts list.

The descriptions seem to have been truncated, but I'm betting that it goes like this:

Code Select Expand

PART #          DESCRIPTION                           PRICE

09181-22167     273 Washer, Shim (stock 1.0mm size)   $1.28
09160-22074     273 Washer, 22x30x1.1mm               $2.54
09160-22075     273 Washer, 22x30x1.2mm               $2.54
09160-22076     273 Washer, 22x30x1.3mm               $2.54
Cool!  I LOVE it when I learn something new about this bike!  

nowdays i`m working at a factory and i can make a washer shim
(or any other ring\shim that i want to make ....)  

so ....

1)  i need know the size of the shim (inside ring &
outside)

2) what kind of matirial is the shim made of ?


help me save some dolars ....  

Quote from: erezshlez1)  i need know the size of the shim (inside ring &
outside)

2) what kind of matirial is the shim made of ?

1) See the chart that you quoted.  It looks like the O.D. is 30mm, the I.D. is 22 mm, and the material thickness is 1.0 - 1.3mm in .1mm increments.

2) Steel I'm sure, but it probably doesn't need to be ultra hard or anything.  It's only there to prevent sideways motion of the cam, after all.

Quote from: erezshlezhelp me save some dolars ....  

Hmmm, $2.54 per, plus shipping.  How much will it cost you for materials, etc?

Depends on what kind of Suzuki dealer network he has there in Jordan.  I think there's one in UAE, but international shipping from BikeBandit in the US would be $20-$30 USPS or $50-$80 UPS/Fedex.

Jordan?  Gulp!  I withdraw the (implied) question.

Quote from: PeachyI'm having the same noise, I only really notice it when it's idling, but every now and then I notice it when I'm going slow speeds. But as you can tell from the thread I started, i'm having other issues with my bike.

I have just sat here reading all your posts and can't beleive what i have read, from 98% of you guys. it is Suzuki's problem to fix. To suggest that we should live with it, or spend time and money playing about with different grades of oil is ridiculess. It is not an expensive problem at this stage for Suzuki to fix.But will become so the longer they let it drag on and keep churning out more bikes. Can't see the problem of manufacturing a thicker washer or shim, as being such a great drama for them. As long as we bury our heads in the sand, while Suzuki look the other way the problem will never be fully addressed. I will keep beating at the dealers door till the problem is sorted out, and i hope they do the same at the Suzuki Factory door. At this stage it's not a problem with my dealership, as they have said it is a warranty problem, and will be fixed under warranty. If anyone of you guys have been told by the dealer that you bought your bike from that it is normal for them to knock, or tell you to live with it. I would be taking it to another dealership while it is still under warranty, and also contacting Suzuki Head Office. Go to the Maxim Suzuki site and read the stories how Suzuki tried to denie they had a piston problem with some K1 & K2  1200 Bandits...
I am not Suzuki bashing, as i own 8 Suzuki's bikes & enjoy riding them all.
As i said in my other post i will let you know the outcome with my wifes bike..........Cheers Red
PS- One of my bikes is a K2 12OO Bandit, without the piston problem

With my F, I only hear it if I start to ride before it warms up,  sometimes there is a clunk when I engage the front brake the first time on a ride.

My '04 GS500f makes the same clunk clunck noise. I have 300 miles on it now and it gets louder everytime I ride it. You can clearly hear it over the noise of other bikes and traffic when it's idling at stop lights.

The service manager and mechanic at the dealership both agree there is something wrong, but I need to complete the 600 mile break in before they contact Suzuki.

I'll post whatever they find at the 600 mile check up.

I had the "clunk" noise and had brought it suzuki and the mechanic said he already knew what theproblem was as other F owners compained. He ordered the parts and fixed it. Works fine now.