As far as the compression test goes, does the throttle have to be open for it to work? How do you do a correct one? hold throtle open, hit starter? does choke have to be on? i would think that if the compression was that bad, it wouldnt run at all. i can get it to start sometimes, but it takes a while, and it will push start, but i have to be going pretty fast. i dont understand why it was running fine except under 3500 rpm and wouldnt start if all that was bad

seshadri_srinath wrote: Choke is extrerally lubed... wd40 with that thin red plastic spray fitting will work wonders. Lube it, and try it

i tried that already. it worked for about two days, and then gummed up again.

WD40 is mostly a water displacer, with a little bit of oil and a whole lot of solvent as a carrier.  It will temporarily loosen things up, but when the solvent evaporates, it leaves only a small amount of oil (lubricant).  Tri-Flow has more lubricant that will stay-around; Lock-Ease (graphite powder in a solvent carrier) will also leave more lubrication in the cable.

I can't comment on the shop's suggestion, other than it sounds like the mechanic needs to pay for a new patio.  At the very least, I'd get a second opinion.  I agree that their PSI numbers sound unreasonably low.

ok. can you get tri flow at walmart or an auto parts store? ill have to try that

Not sure about Wal-Mart, as their inventory varies quite a bit between stores.  Tri-flow is sold at most bicycle stores, and many hardware stores, usually near the WD40.  It usually looks like this:


It claims that it's lubricant is Teflon, but I suspect that it is a Teflon/oil mixture.  Anyways, WD40 was not designed to lubricate, whereas Tri-Flow was.

If you want to go on the cheap side, some bicylists use WD40 first to help free-up rust, then follew that with a squirt of motor oil (from an oilcan), to lubricate.  But this is easiest done with the cable sheath empty and off the bike.  If you can figure out a way to get oil in there, then that is probably good enough.

Well, figured out the problem. i had a valve adjustment done on the bike, and it brought the right cyl. from 30 psi to 125 psi. The left cyl. did not change any. Looked further and the exhaust valve is broken. :x  :x  I guess that would explain the all of a sudden breakdown. oh well. could be worse. At least nothing fell into the chamber. id be really pissed if i had to buy a new motor.

ALLRIGHT!! Finally got my bike back from the shop. WOOHOO :mrgreen: Had them replace the valves. Now it runs like a brand new bike. It still hesitates for a second about 3k (still needs carb clean), but now it idles perfectly. One peculiar thing i was told is that when the shop pulled the head off the bike, the innards (pistons, rings etc.) were brand new looking, and the cylinder walls still had the crosshatch in them. The only thing that i can figure is that the valves must have been messed up for a really long time. B/c if the engine has over 20k miles on it, the cylinder walls should be worn, along with all the other parts. Thats cool though, because now i have a "brand new" 95 with over 20k mi. sweet. To all who lended advice, thank you much.

Wel, getting screwed by the shop. Got the bike back, runs great, except leaks oil like a M.F. Looks like they are gonna get it back along with a big ass chewing