I just bought a 2001 GS500 w/165 miles on it this past weekend and it wont stay idling, I start it full choke and it revs to 5,000rpm's, I then try to pull choke in a little bit to let the rpms go down, but it will just die.

This bike was a repo, and has old gas in it (2 years old). I tried to siphon  (sp?) it all out and put in new gas. But I'm not sure if I got it all out. Could this be what is causing the problem with the idle?

Also, what are the two hoses coming out near the frame next to the rear brake and the exhaust side engine case. One has a cap/cover and the other doesn't, is that how it's supposed to be, or are they both supposed to have caps, or neither of them?

I have already done the fenderectomy, getting an f-16 sport windscreen, and doing the Progressive front end in a few weeks.

One last thing, how much play/slack should the throttle have (Left to right and front to back) and also the clutch and front brake?

I'm trying to make sure things are ok since it's been sitting a while.

THANKS for your help, I'd be lost without this sight.

Sorry I'm a complete NOOB, BigTwin

im pretty sure those hoses are breather tubes.  one goes to the battery

Should only one of them have a cap on it or both?

-BigTwin-

only one has a cap. sounds normal.

choke-
its common for these bikes, because the carbs are jetted lean to meet EPA, to idle high when starting from cold with choke. 4-5k rpm is common. Mine used to die if I tried to lower the choke a bit too. Give it a minute and fiddle with the choke to get it to just drop to about 3k if you can. Usually takes 5-7 minutes to warm up enough to ride off, slipping the clutch a bit sometimes. After a few more minutes it should be warm enough to drop the choke off completely.

This "coldbloodedness" can be fixed by rejettign the carbs (lots of info here if you search). Make sure you read up on the 2001+ model jetting as they're different than the 89-00 models.

Your other problem may be that the gas sat in the carbs for 2 years. Gas has a tendency to turn to varnish so if this is the case you've got a carb rebuild ahead of you.

here's two good links for rejetting by members here:
good:
http://electrovw.tripod.com/welcome/id17.html

better:
http://www.angelfire.com/mt2/mikesgs500/rejetting/

I used to have a 2001 too. Great bikes. Only 165 miles!  practically new. I bought mine with 425 on it and sold it with 9500 5 months ago after having it for 16 months.

Welcome to the board.

I just finished overhauling an older GS that sat for 2 years with gas in tank and carbs. I had similar problems until I tore the carbs apart and cleaned them with carb cleaner. There was varnish everywhere and lots of particles (rust from tank?). I had one float that was also hanging up from crap around it.

You might consider pulling off the tank and cleaning that really well.

For cheap and quick you might try removing the breather box and using some spray carb cleaner while the engine is running. Some people say that can help a minor case of varnish. YMMV

Quote from: BigTwinI start it full choke and it revs to 5,000rpm's, I then try to pull choke in a little bit to let the rpms go down, but it will just die. [...] This bike ... has old gas in it (2 years old).

I'm with lenny; clean the carbs.  I wouldn't fool around with a fuel additive-type cleaner in this situation.  The best thing you could do is get a manual and pull the carbs apart step-by-step, clean all of the metal parts with carb cleaner from a spray can (from the auto parts store), and then reassemble them one step at a time according to the manual.

I know, I know.  It freaks you out to even think of tackling such a job, right?  But trust me ... if you take it slow and stay organized there is nothing truly difficult about it.  And once you've done it you'll never feel the same way about your bike again. YOU will be the master -- "Bwa ha ha ha ha!"  (I know this because that's exactly what happened to me.   )

If you need help, just yell.  One of these winter days I'll crank up the lights and document the process on my '99 carbs.  It won't match exactly with the '01+ carbs, but it'll be plenty close enough.

QUERY TO ALL: I think someone said that the '89-'02 Clymer manual was silent with respect to the new-style carbs.  Does anyone have the '89-'02 Haynes manual?  Does IT have info specific to the later carbs?

Quote from: BigTwinAlso, what are the two hoses coming out near the frame next to the rear brake and the exhaust side engine case. One has a cap/cover and the other doesn't, is that how it's supposed to be, or are they both supposed to have caps, or neither of them?

There should actually be 3 hoses in that vicinity.  At least, that was the stock configuration on my '96 and '99.

* The smallest one (with an open end) was a vent hose from the battery -- pretty much a straight shot from the + terminal side down to the footpeg.


* The medium one (with an open end) was the drain hose from the tank "lid":

* The large-diameter hose with the cap is the airbox drain hose.  It allows oily "blow by" from the crankcase breather to drain out of the airbox where it collects.  You'll notice that the cap has a slit in it, which is where the fluid eventually escapes.  Mine has been looking kind of yucky lately:
[/list:u]You can see drawings of (the upper ends of) the 2nd and 3rd hoses on my Fuel Hose Routing page.

Quote from: BigTwinOne last thing, how much play/slack should the throttle have (Left to right and front to back) and also the clutch and front brake?

Throttle
* No figures on the amount of left-to-right play.  I think it's built into the assembly and is not adjustable.
* Front-to-back play: 3 to 6mm of cable motion (on the single cable pre-2001 setup, anyway)


Clutch Lever Freeplay
10 to 15mm, according to the Haynes method of measuring:



Front Brake
Since the brakes are hydraulic rather than cable systems, freeplay values are hard to come by....

For the throttle free play, I usually set it to 1mm of freeplay at it's tightest point, (runs out to bike) which is to the right; full lock right; this will get you a decent amount of freeplay everywhere else.

Same thing with clutch and choke, although, I think it's full lock left.

Brakes are not adjustable for freeplay, but bleeding them will make them feel tighter, if ya do it right.

if your going to open the carbs, you might as well rejet.

I will have the rejet thing for the 2001 up in the next few days.

kerry wrote:QUERY TO ALL: I think someone said that the '89-'02 Clymer manual was silent with respect to the new-style carbs. Does anyone have the '89-'02 Haynes manual? Does IT have info specific to the later carbs?

yes kerry it shows you both types of carb