While I was reassmebling my GS, I screwed up and may have totalled the engine.  This has me looking at other bikes.  (Its not cheating if the first one is alread dead)  I noticed that there are some really nice bike that are only sold in Europe.  Is there any way to get one state side?  I am thinking of a few of the Yamaha specifically.

OK what did you do... cam chain off a couple of teeth ... goats syndrome... what...
Cool.
Srinath.

I'm guessing importing a bike and vehicle follow the same criteria. The main reason Euro bikes aren't here are emission standards.  I imagine once you go through the process of importing the bike you have to make it DOT compliant.

I would recommend checking out the DOT webiste because they have information on there about importing vehicles (I'd imagine it would mention motorcycles).

Also, here is my recommendation: http://www.motorcycledaily.com/borile1.jpg

Isn't she lovely? Yeah but it will cost you a pretty penny too. I did some checking and found out one of these will run you $15,000 - ouch. Here is more info about the bike - FYI.
http://www.motorcycledaily.com/singles.html

J-double:
For some reason, I always though that European Emissions standards were tighter than the US.  I will have to look into that more.  That looks like a fun bike, but I was looking at the Yamaha Bulldog 1100.

Srinath:
I can almost hear you shaking your head.  What appears to have happened is, in the process of reinstalling the cams, I somehow knocked the shim for the left intake valve out of position, and it slid forward, coming to rest about half over the valve, have on the head itself.  When I went to start the bike, the valve opened at least part of the way, but as the cam continued around it shattered the shim into about a dozen little pieces.  Some of these are still embeded in the head.  The disfigurement around the valve follower caused it to stay in the open position.  The piston impacted the valve on the next pass.  
I am going to probably remove the head tonight, if I get home on time.  Since the pistons are aluminum, this could be bad.  I am also worried about connecting rod, and crankshaft damage.  I may have a wide selection of GS spare parts here soon, including progressive springs, a National Cycle F16 windshield, and other assorted goodies.

i know what you mean about the euro bikes and wanting them state side...

i would love to have a cbr 400
chris<pixelmonkey>

emission standards got pretty tight here also. I think the Yamaha Bulldog can meet the U.S. standards, probably every modern 4 stroke bike can.

After all, if the old GS can pass (new model has a catalyst though) newer bikes should pass also.

I've always thought European emissions standards were more strict as well.

I like the look of the naked Yamaha Fazer, and the Honda 400's also look pretty doggone nice.

One of the other things you have to look out for is the currency conversion. If the rate is, say, $1.80 per Pound Sterling(British pounds), then the bike would cost you almost twice what the list price is.

Sorry if that's confusing.

Private imports known as "Grey imports" or "Grey market" are fairly common in Europe, no border between 25 countries is a great help but in UK there is quite a lively grey market direct from Japan in both cars and bikes. It is fair to say this is done more by dealers than individuals but it is possible.

Being a sensible Island people the Japanese drive on the left which helps when importing cars of course.

Also shipment costs are helped by the sheer volume of container traffic to and from Japan, the same would apply on your West coast. In theory you could make a "personal import" from either Europe or Japan, whereabouts in the US you live would also have a bearing on this choice.
If you bought in Europe you would not pay local taxes but would probably be liable for US sales tax and/or import duties.

Another pitfall to beware of is that a lot of "Japanese" bikes in Europe are actualy made here, for instance most Hondas on Europe's roads are made in Italy so check that out before deciding which ocean to cross.

I think the biggest problem would be the paperwork and possibly shipping costs but once you settled on a source they could probably help you. If you go for Europe you then need to decide which Europen country, Germany and UK are often quoted as best-buys but a great deal would depend upon the Dollar - Euro - Pound exchange rate at the precise time.

It sound a complex but interesting project. If you are really serious about it I could make enquires from the local Yamaha man who also happens to be the local Suzuki man. PM if required. One last note of caution, when this practice stated to catch on over here the national "official" importers did everthing they could to disrupt the trade even to the point of leaning on the manufacturers not to supply when they thought this may be happening not to mention the fact that you would not have a valid warranty which may or may not concern you.

I wish you luck. I fear you may need a lot of patience with the beaurocrats of the world.

Don't buy the 'Bulldog' - it really is a dog, and has been a sales flop in the UK.  All the European reviews I have read feature the same word - 'disappointing'.  Only manages about 60 bhp from 1000cc.

Quote from: GoferI've always thought European emissions standards were more strict as well.

I've heard the same thing myself, even more strict than CA emissions

Importing a streetbike to the US is more trouble than it's worth.  You'll have spent enough money getting it over here and the DMV may not even let you register it.  I've also heard bikes not meant for the US can't come through customs assembled but I'm not sure on that one.

Sounds like I might be better off sticking with a US bike, unless I have lots of time and money to gamble with.  With a little work and some squinting, an SV 1000 can almost look the same.  

On a side note, I got the head off and found half of the valve laying on the piston.  It snapped where the stem emerges from the guide.  The dent in the piston is surprisingly small.  If the connecting rod is not bent and the head can be repaired, it might yet be salvageable.

I am sure the emmission standards for US/EC are pretty much the same. Sadly, I fear 70 Cam Guy is right about being more trouble than it's worth, these things usually are until it becomes an issue and someone "breaks the mould"

Many years ago a mate of mine imported a second-hand car and we made enquiries from the customs before doing so, to our surprise they were very helpful so it might just be worth you checking.

Quote from: ItSeemedLikeAGoodIdeaI got the head off and found half of the valve laying on the piston.  It snapped where the stem emerges from the guide.  The dent in the piston is surprisingly small.

OK, I'm going to ask my question again.  In the Idiot! Bent valve. thread someone said that a fully extended valve will not contact the top of the piston.  Given your experience, is this exactly what happened?

Perhaps the opposing valve pushed the stuck-open valve diagonally into the top of the piston?

Or maybe the opposing valve broke the stuck-open valve all by itself, and then the valve remnant got sandwiched between the piston and another valve part later?

I just want to make sure that the step-by-step instructions for "safer" valve adustments in that other thread are safe to disseminate.  I don't really expect a final answer from you personally, but more input and discussion would be appreciated.

Quote from: ItSeemedLikeAGoodIdeaas the cam continued around it shattered the shim into about a dozen little pieces.  Some of these are still embeded in the head.  The disfigurement around the valve follower caused it to stay in the open position.  The piston impacted the valve on the next pass.

OK, that's bad.  Now that you mention it, that could even happen following a shim replacement.  A new valve is needed, but you mention disfiguring of the follower?  Ouch.   And think of the pressure needed to shatter the shim; even the cam is suspect now.  Your problem has to be up there with "the worst GS engine deaths ever".  If you're lucky, you only need a new valve (or two), and maybe a cam.  Seeing the value of GSes, a new engine is probably nearly as cheap as a new head+valves+cam .  

Note to self:  turn over the engine by hand using wrench, to verify proper shim placement before bolting it all up... OK, message received loud and clear  

...and not to change the subject on Kerry, it would be really good to know whether the GS is a "non-interference engine design", as suggested in the threads he mentions; can a piston hit a valve?

...and not to hijack your thread about Eurobikes.  To do it legally, it's very expensive.  To do it not quite as legally...

Quote from: Rema1000it would be really good to know whether the GS is a "non-interference engine design" [...] can a piston hit a valve?

Before anybody answers that, please consider the worst case I can think of: a valve that's already too tight with the thinnest shim (2.15mm) and THEN has the thickest shim (3.10mm) fitted.

Assuming that this is even physically possible....  :dunno:

you have the thinest shim already? might be time for another head anyway, or pay to have the seats replaced.  i think i have an empty head laying around, could transfer parts over and rebuild it. but let some others ring in on posible fixes for you now.

Quote from: Blueknytyou have the thinest shim already?

No, I don't.  (Flash does, but that's another thread. )

I just meant that a flat statement like "No, a GS500 valve can never hit the piston" would be kinda worthless if the worst-case scenario weren't considered.

I would be fine with a qualified statement like, "With a ___mm shim and a ___mm thick camshaft-to-shim spacer I was unable to get the _______ valve to hit the piston."  I assume that such a statement would be made only by someone who had disconnected their camchain and rotated the motor around a time or two.  Anyone else would probably have bent one valve with the other one, right?

I am sure that the piston hit the valve as I found a dent in the top of the piston that matches the damage to the valve.   I do not know if the valve was fully opened, but it did protrude far enough for the piston to strike it.  I had not though about the other valve hitting it, but that probably merits an inspection as well.  For the record, it is (was?) a 96 gs.  As I took the head off, I felt like I was doing an autopsy.  The good news is the height of the pistions at TDC appear to be identical, so I do not think the connecting rod was bent.  Anyone have any ideas how to check the bottom end without removing it?

Quote from: Kerry

Quote from: Rema1000it would be really good to know whether the GS is a "non-interference engine design" [...] can a piston hit a valve?

Before anybody answers that, please consider the worst case I can think of: a valve that's already too tight with the thinnest shim (2.15mm) and THEN has the thickest shim (3.10mm) fitted.

Assuming that this is even physically possible....  :dunno:

It is possible, of course.  I don't think there'll be any physical contacts just because of an extra mm, given the general "loose" specs reputation of the GS engine.  However, the cylinder will not be registering any compression pressure.  It is like having an unclosable valve all the time--no pressure.  Trust me, I know.  :mrgreen:

Cheers,
e.

Got some good news today.  I took the head to the local shop and they said that they will be able to machine out the damage to the head.  The valve guide and seat is undamaged.  It looks like I will just need a new valve and related accessories.  Now I have to determine if the dent in the piston is enough to total it or not.  Anyone have any guidance on this?