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Rejetted, almost there

Started by Dom, November 19, 2004, 06:29:08 PM

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Dom

Sometimes it'll start up, sometimes it won't.

K&n pods,
srinaths pipe
#150 mains
two #4 washers per carb...each is just under 1mm thick
three full turns out.
#40 pilots

I tried to set the idle around 800 but it's so erratic and sometimes the rpms just stay high even though I release the throttle.  It doesn't seem like the throttle is sticking though cause it snaps back.

I cant imagine what is wrong.  Any ideas?

also has backfired a few times, causing a stall once

starts if I point arrow up. idles at quarter choke, rough idle

treybrad

It starts on PRI? I'd make sure you've got the vacuum lines connected right. I didn't last time I had my carbs off and it was about like what you're describing. Worth a shot.

trey

70 Cam Guy

I thought idle was supposed to be set at 1100.  Is it different when you rejet? :dunno:
Andy

Dom

your right...I tried for around 1000, and got rid of one of the washers.  Now it's only a 1mm shim and it idles way better.

It still only starts on prime, runs for a minute on and off choke and then dies.

Ill check the vaccuum lines.

treybrad

check those lines. let us know when you get it figured out... i'm putting a pod on here in a couple weeks and would love to know any pitfalls on the rejetting... btw.. how cold is it where you are?

trey

GRU

ok, assuming you have everything set right....i think you have a vacuum problem...make sure the carbs are seatet right and tight in the boots...also, did you notice a small rubber O ring on the side of the carb (between the plastic top cover and the carb) ?

Dom

Rubber O rings(the teenie tiny ones) are in place.  Carbs snug.  Here are my questions regarding vaccuum lines:

The non fuel hose from the tank, goes to the t fitting on the bottom of the carbs right?

Fuel tank hoses I'm sure I have right.

The vaccuum line from the carb, just my left carb has one...goes to the furthest right nozzle on the shutoff valve.

The top t fitting has a hose that goes to the middle fuel shutoff nozzle. It also leaks fuel like a sieve if I leave the primer on.

Breather hose has no filter

Dom

Switched the top and bottom t fitting.  Top t now goes to tank purge hose and bottom t goes to middle nozzle on fuel shutoff.

Starts better, still a rough idle.

Dom


Rema1000

That "3 turns out" is just a starting-point.  If you're running a unique combination of intake and exhaust, then you need to tune the pilots the same way you tune the idle:

After a nice ride (bike is completely warmed-up), turn the idle up to 2k;
Use a screwdriver bit to adjust the pilot on each side:
I turn the mixture lean, then gradually turn it richer until the idle quits going-up, then I leave it there.  Some people turn the mixture richer until it starts to bog (too rich), then back off a bit leaner again.

I have had to do this (as well as set the idle) at-least once in the fall, and again in the spring, in order to get the bike to run well at all temps.  Usually, it needs to be richer, and the idle higher, in winter.
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adamwade

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GRU

hold on...you have the gastank drain hose connected to the bottom T of the carbs? that's wrong...the bottom T is supposed to be connected to the frame mounted petcock....


just take a look at the page
Quote from: adamwadetry this link out for feul and vacuum line routing
http://www.bbburma.net/FuelHoseRouting.htm

Dom

Thanks adamwade, that helped incredibly...starts right up... but seems like a rough idle.  I had to set it at around 1300-1500.

I only had a 1mm washer, would 2 washers, for a grand total of 2mm per carb be better?

La ti da.  It's good enuf for a cruisa around the BLOCK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Dom

On riding.  

No oomph.  Could barely make it into 2nd gear.  No more push after 5000rpms.  Could barely make it get up to 10000.  Could it be the Mobil1 10w30 for cars?

Is my chain too tight?  I'm just trying to think of ANY possible explaination.

pixelmonkey

maybe a bad spark plug???


easy to check, and cheap to fix!
chris<pixelmonkey>:D

Dom

that was my thought too.  I just had some mexican food and was thinking to myself what it could bee over some drinks.  I'll get some first thing./

Ed89

Still leaking fuel with the petcock set to prime?  From the carb?  If so you might have a stuck float needle (or not properly seated).

Cheers,
e.

The Buddha

Quote from: DomOn riding.  

No oomph.  Could barely make it into 2nd gear.  No more push after 5000rpms.  Could barely make it get up to 10000.  Could it be the Mobil1 10w30 for cars?

Is my chain too tight?  I'm just trying to think of ANY possible explaination.

OK are your floats filling up... vaccum hose to petcock should go to the left carb inside fitting that sorta faces the right carb.
Your floats should be full to the gasket, and check if your slides are moving up and down ... no kinked springs etc... and diaphragms seated well and no rips in them right ... even a tiny one is very bad.
Cool.
Srinath.
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Dom

One of my diaphragms is a little little bigger than the indentation, so I have to place the cover over it and shimmy it a little bit so the flange seats in the groove.  

What is a slide?  Is that the plastic part of the diaphragm?

Do the #40 pilots have 4 holes drilled in the sides?

No longer leaking with petcock to prime.

Rema1000

Be sure to check float height using the U-tube method.  Sometimes after you put things back together, the float needle sticks.  Once, I had to tap on the side of the float bowl with an axehandle, and then the bowl filled-up.

Also, I had a similar problem once when the fuel hose from the petcock to the carbs was pinched where it passes by the frame: bike would run fine in the driveway, but could only ride in 1st at moderate RPMs.
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