I don't know if this exists or not, but here it goes...  How do you guys tune the carbs using the gas tank?  It's a real pain to pull the tank every time you wanna make an adjustment, and almost impossible to adjust while the bike is running.  Is there some sort of fuel bottle available that you could attach the fuel lines to??  Like the fuel bottle for my RC car?

Motion Pro makes one. Kind of looks and hangs like an IV bottle. But it costs around $60.

I use a tank from a weed eater. One of the rectangular ones. Paid $5 at a mower repair shop. Used a barbed nipple for compressed air for the outlet. Slipped a fuel hose over it. I never got around to adding a shut off valve.

Do I need to add this to my list of FAQ write-ups?

i got an ugly black plastic tank that i found in the woods in a pile of riding mowers....
I got a shut off and a filter
a zip tie and a bungie cord and we were riding the DR350 that friend bought this afternoon.... after about 4 hours of servicing

and I've been called a redneck.......

OK if you are cheap -
Big or is that large vehicle radiator overflow cannister - available at autoparts stores ...
If you are extremely cheap -
Radiator overflow can off anyhitng lying about a wrecking yard ... car or bike ...
Cool.
Srinath.

Maybe it wouldn't hurt to recycle a couple photos at this point.  Credit goes to Srinath:

That Motion Pro thing looks pretty nice, but it is indeed spendy...  I like the overflow canister idea.  The Motion Pro thing is cool cause it has a shutoff valve already installed, and I am fairly lazy.

That coolant return thing is PERFECT!  You remember how much it cost ya?

Quote from: mrblinkThat coolant return thing is PERFECT!  You remember how much it cost ya?

See Photo #1....

  My kinda deal.  I actually found the exact same thing at Kragen for  fitty cent cheaper!  Woo-hoo!  Thanks guys!

Quote from: KerryMaybe it wouldn't hurt to recycle a couple photos at this point.  Credit goes to Srinath:

OK you have pics for everyhitng ... I give up...
Cool.
Srinath.

Hey dgyver,

I'm in the planing stages of building a "Pressure Bleeder" for the brake system.  The hose barbs I plan to use have 1/4" pipe threads.  I assume that your hose barb also has  1/4' pipe threads.  How did you attach the hose barb to your plastic tank?  The "Pressure Bleeder" has to maintain a pressure of 15 psi.  I will be using a 32 oz. "Nalgene" plastic bottle.  
The plan is to drill and tap 2 holes into the plastic lid for the hose barbs, and then reinforce the barbs underneath the lid with epoxy around their threads. Does this sound like a good plan to you?

Input from others is appreciated also.  Sorry to deviate from the original question but "dgyver"s mention about hose barbs and plastic bottles was too tempting to resist.

Thanks


Bob

[Do I need to add this to my list of FAQ write-ups?[/quote]
Yes please do.
After Kerrys video about the valves comes out you guys are making
it so tempting to do my own service.

look around in bulk piles,  lawn mower tanks are perfect, i built one using 2 liter bottle, and athread in elbow, and use hemostats as shutoff clamp.  hehe it looks like old fashion IV bottle

AAAAAAAAAAAAAAGGGGGGGGGHHHHHH!!!!! :x  :x  :x  :guns:  :guns:  :guns:  :guns:

Why didn't I hear about this thirty tank attachments an reattachments ago?!?!?!?!?!?

Quote from: rcepluchHey dgyver,

I'm in the planing stages of building a "Pressure Bleeder" for the brake system.  The hose barbs I plan to use have 1/4" pipe threads.  I assume that your hose barb also has  1/4' pipe threads.  How did you attach the hose barb to your plastic tank?  The "Pressure Bleeder" has to maintain a pressure of 15 psi.  I will be using a 32 oz. "Nalgene" plastic bottle.  
The plan is to drill and tap 2 holes into the plastic lid for the hose barbs, and then reinforce the barbs underneath the lid with epoxy around their threads. Does this sound like a good plan to you?....

I was able to thread the nipple into the bottle. No sealant used. I would not put pressure on my setup. Epoxy should work fine as sealant.

Not really sure what you are trying to make but it sounds like a MityVac pump. 15 psi is not much so it your construction method should be fine.

Quote from: dgyver

Quote from: rcepluchHey dgyver,

I'm in the planing stages of building a "Pressure Bleeder" for the brake system.  The hose barbs I plan to use have 1/4" pipe threads.  I assume that your hose barb also has  1/4' pipe threads.  How did you attach the hose barb to your plastic tank?  The "Pressure Bleeder" has to maintain a pressure of 15 psi.  I will be using a 32 oz. "Nalgene" plastic bottle.  
The plan is to drill and tap 2 holes into the plastic lid for the hose barbs, and then reinforce the barbs underneath the lid with epoxy around their threads. Does this sound like a good plan to you?....

I was able to thread the nipple into the bottle. No sealant used. I would not put pressure on my setup. Epoxy should work fine as sealant.

Not really sure what you are trying to make but it sounds like a MityVac pump. 15 psi is not much so it your construction method should be fine.

Hey dgyver,

Thanks for the reply.  

I am assuming you just drilled a hole in the plastic tank and screwed in the hose barb without taping the hole? (letting the threads of the hose barb cut its own threads)

The "Pressure Bleeder" will work just the opposite of the "MityVac".  My bleeder will pressurize the master clyinder and force the brake fluid out of the wheel clyinder bleeder. The "Pressure Bleeder" uses a pressurized vessel containing new brake fluid that forces the fluid through the system.  No chance for air to get in and little chance for running the master clyinder dry.  Plus you do not have to monitor the master clyinder while the bleeder is in use.  See this image to get an idea of what I plan to do.  Keep in mind I am not going to use a glass bottle, and I am going to use a 5 gallon air tank for pressure. http://www.humanspeakers.com/audi/images/bleeder-use.jpg

Quote from: rcepluch...I am assuming you just drilled a hole in the plastic tank and screwed in the hose barb without taping the hole? (letting the threads of the hose barb cut its own threads)

The tank already had a hole in it. I found a nipple that would fit and cut its own threads.

Coolant returd tank from NAPA - $9
10' of 1/4" i.d., 3/8" o.d. clear vinyl tubing, barbed hose-to-hose fitting, compression fit valve, all from Home Depot - $9

You could buy the quick connect plastic petcock but I'm not sure if it's solvent resistant, didn't say on the packaging.

Just want to thank whomever was ingenious enuf to figure this badboy out.   I
momentarily thought about using an upside down chalk line bottle with a hole in the top, but dismissed the idea...Lord knows why?!?!?!  Anyway, very much appreciated, and a must have for ANY jetting procedures.    

An FAQ must

What the heck - let's recycle another picture...



I don't think this particular item is cost effective compared to Dom's solution - it ran something like $8 a couple years ago, and doesn't have the hose-to-hose connector for the lower end.

I originally took the picture to suggest a possible replacement for the ON/RES/PRI petcock itself in a straight-from-tank-to-carbs setup.  It would allow for positive shutoff and prevention of overflow in the case of dirty float needles or seats.